AutoZone OEM/Ford porcelain spark plug extractor

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    OEM/Ford porcelain spark plug extractor

    Part Number: 24202

    Features & Benefits

    Repair of Ford Triton modular engines is going to be a large issue in next 5 years (2010-2015). Ford Triton engines 1996 – 2003 have a problem with spark plug thread erosion, resulting in spark plug threads coming out during tune up or shooting spark Fluke.

    • Used to extract the broken porcelain from broken spark plugs in 2003 to current Ford Triton engines
    • In some cases the porcelain will break off in the sleeve and will need to be extracted in order for the 39100 to function effectively
    • This tool adheres to the porcelain by using a special adhesive and then allows a user to extract the broken porcelain from the sleeve
    • 11 parts
    Product Details
    Part Number: 24202
    Weight: 0.75 lbs
    Adhesive Included: Yes
    Application: Extracting Spark Plugs
    Case Included: No
    Kit Contents: Assembly, Adhesive, Instructions
    Pieces: 11
    Shipping Information: Overnight and Two Day shipping are not available for PO Box, APO/FPO/DPO or US Territory addresses.
    This product may be shipped directly by the vendor to any eligible US addresses, excluding APO/FPO/DPO or US Territory addresses.
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      OEM/Ford porcelain spark plug extractor

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      This review is hidden because you have chosen to ignore Member 3001387. Show DetailsHide Details

      This kit is used to remove the porcelsin part of the plug (inside broken off in side the shield).

      1 of 1 people found this helpful

      I have a 2004 F-150 with 130,000 miles (plugs were never changed). I ran 4 tanks of fuel with fuel injector cleaner before I started. Then after engine was at operating temperture I sprayed penetrating oil in each spark plug well and let it sit overnight. I than started it up to warm the engine (around the block 4 times). I removed all plugs but the last one broke off leaving the shield and the porcelain in the shield. (I did not have any problems with the spark plug threads.)

      The kit comes with an tube of locktite that starts to set in 10 minutes. After assembly I tried to put the pin in the porcelain hole where the center of the spark plug use to be. This was difficult and I could not accoumplish it in 10 minutes (much less repeating the process 4 times in 10 minutes). I filed a point on the end of the pin and with practice was able to insert the pin in the hole in less than 1 minute. The proceedure tells you to use metal cleaner however, the Ford Techical Service Bulletin (TSB 08-7-6) says to use metal brake parts cleaner.

      The metal rod with a loop handle, I did not use because I could not see to insert it in the center of the porcelain. You are to use this rod to line the center of the porcelin with locktite adhesive. I used an 1/8 inch pop rivet and removed the rivet part (the shaft is about 10 thousandths of an inch smaller than the pins that come with the kit). Again I filed a sharp point on the end to make it easier to insert it in the center hole.
      With the riviet shaft in the pin holder and the holder in the assembly you can spin (or twist) the pin holder to verify the pin (or pop rivet pin is centered in the holder). I practiced inserting the pin in the porcelain several times. You put locktite adhesive on two sides of the pin and try to insert it in the center of the porcelain. Than repeat adding more adhesive. (This is the most difficult part, trying to put the pin in the porcelain hole.) I applied one layer of electrical tape around the assembly that fits into the spark plug well, this made the assembly fit snug into the well and still be centered.

      Next I put in a pin that comes with the kit and again filed a point on the end. Lined 2 sides of the pin with locktite adhesive. When I inserted it (two times the pin slide in the hole when I practiced) but most of the time you had to move the whole assembly (turning clockwise) to find the hole. Again you have to repeat this process to make sure you had adhesive completely coating the inside of the porcelain hole.

      I let the asssembly sit overnight (engine was at operating temperature when I started and still very warm when I finished.) The next day I put the washers and nut on the shaft to pull out the porcelain and after I made about one complete turned with a wrench, on the nut to pull out the porcelain, I heard a pop and the nut was loose. I pulled out the assembly and the porcelain came with it. If it does not work the first time the instructions say you can repeat the process.

      Pros: Engine needs to be warm (above 70 degrees, hotter is better).

      Cons: Will need another kit to remove the shield (that fits around the long procelain end).

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