AutoZone 2003 Subaru Legacy AWD 2.5L SFI SOHC 4cyl | Repair Guides | Brakes | Disc Brakes | Brake Pads | AutoZone.com

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    2003 Subaru Legacy AWD 2.5L SFI SOHC 4cyl

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    GM Century/Lumina/Grand Prix/Intrigue 1997-2000

    Brake Pads

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    The original equipment disc brake pads generally have small sheetmetal wear indicators attached to one of the brake pads. When the brake lining gets too thin, the sheetmetal wear indicator rubs against the brake rotor. The wear indicator does not harm the rotor, but it does makes an irritating screeching noise alerting the vehicle operator that the brake pad replacement is due. This wear indicator is designed to protect the brake rotor from damage from the hard steel backing of the brake pad. In addition, with the brake pads renewed, the vehicle's braking ability stays at its designed level of safety.

    REMOVAL & INSTALLATION



    Front

    Several types of front brake calipers have been used on GM W-Body vehicles. The primary difference is some vehicles use a double-piston front caliper, while others use a single piston. Use care when ordering replacement parts. The caliper is mounted to the support bracket with two mounting bolts.


    NOTE
    There is no need to disconnect any brake lines or brake hoses for disc brake pad replacement.



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    Fig. Installed view of the front disc brake assembly-Lumina shown, others similar



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    Fig. Exploded view of a typical front caliper and brake pads-Century and Regal shown, others similar



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    Fig. Caliper mounting bolt (also called slide pin) locations



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    Fig. Never let a caliper hang by the brake hose. Make a hook out of stiff wire to hang the caliper out of the way during brake service



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    Fig. The caliper mounting bolts (also called slide pins) must be clean and free of corrosion. Replace these bolts if there is any doubt to their condition



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    Fig. The caliper bushings should be lubricated with silicone grease before installation in the caliper bracket



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    Fig. Use a suitable prytool to remove the outboard brake pad and spring



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    Fig. The calipers are coded L for Left Side and R for Right Side



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    Fig. Removing the mounting bolts (slide pins). Inspect the threads (1) and the protective rubber boot (2)



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    Fig. Wire brush the surface of the caliper bracket where the caliper and pads rest



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    Fig. Apply a small amount (arrow) of high-temperature lubricant (disc-brake rated wheel bearing grease) to the area where the caliper and pads rest



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    Fig. Apply a small amount of silicone grease to only the slide pin portion of the mounting bolts. Use care to keep the grease off the bolt threads

    1. Using a clean suction gun, remove approximately 2 / 3 of the brake fluid from the master cylinder. The reason for this is that the caliper pistons must be pushed back into their bores so the caliper can be removed from the rotor. This could cause the brake fluid to overflow from the reservoir onto painted surfaces or wiring.
    2.  
    3. Raise and safely support the vehicle on safety stands.
    4.  
    5. Mark the relationship of the wheel to the hub so it can later be installed in the same relationship. This helps retain the balance of the rotating assembly.
    6.  
    7. Remove the front tire and wheel assembly. Install two wheel lug nuts to keep the rotor on the hub. Remove the caliper slide pin bolts and carefully work the caliper away from the rotor and caliper mounting bracket.
    8.  
    9. Push the caliper piston(s) back into their bore(s) to provide clearance between the linings and rotor. Use a large C-clamp over the top of the caliper housing and against the back of the outboard pad. Slowly tighten the C-clamp until the piston(s) are pushed back into the caliper bore(s) enough to slide the caliper off the rotor.
    10.  
    11. Remove the outboard brake pad. Use a small prytool to lift up on the outboard pad retaining spring so it will clear the caliper center lug.
    12.  
    13. Remove the inboard brake pad, unsnapping the pad springs from the inside of the piston bores.
    14.  
    15. The caliper mounting bolts (also called slide pins) are important because, in use, the caliper moves (slides) a small amount, along the bolts. This "floating" action is key to the caliper's ability to self-adjust. The bolts must be clean of rust and corrosion. Small rubber boots on the mounting bolts are designed to keep out water and road debris. Inspect the pin boots for cuts, tears or deterioration. If corrosion is found, use new replacement parts including bushings when installing the caliper. GM does not recommend attempting to polish away corrosion. Any protective coating still on the mounting bolts would then be abraded away and corrosion will return in an even shorter time. As insurance against brake problems, many professionals routinely replace the caliper mounting bolts (often sold as "pin kits") during disc brake pad replacements.
    16.  
    17. Inspect the caliper for signs of leaks. While seal kits may be available for caliper overhaul, most professional technicians will simply install a new or factory rebuilt caliper, when required.
    18.  

    To install:

    1. Bottom the piston(s) in the caliper bore(s) using a C-clamp, if new brake pads are to be installed. Use a large C-clamp and a metal plate or wooden block across the face of the piston(s). Take care not to damage the piston(s) or caliper rubber dust boot(s). After bottoming the piston(s), carefully lift the inner edge of the caliper boot(s) next to the piston(s) and press out any trapped air. The boots must lay flat below the level of the piston face.
    2.  
    3. Install the inboard brake pad by snapping the pad retainer springs into the hollow of the pistons. Make sure both tangs of the retainer springs are installed inside the hollows (openings) of the pistons. After installing the brake pads, check that the caliper boots are not touching the pads. If there is any contact, remove the brake pads and reseat or reposition the boots.
    4.  
    5. Install the outboard brake pads by snapping the outboard pad retaining springs over the caliper center lug and into the housing slot. The brake pad wear sensor should be at the trailing edge of the brake pad during forward wheel rotation. The back of the pad must lay flat against the caliper.
    6.  
    7. Install the caliper over the rotor and mounting bracket and work into place. Make sure the bushings in the caliper bracket are still in place.
    8.  
    9. Carefully lubricate the caliper mounting bolts (slide pins) using silicone grease. Do not lubricate the threads or the mounting bolts may tend to work loose. Lubricate the two rubber bushings in the caliper mounting bracket using silicone grease. Install the caliper mounting bolts. Use a small flat-blade tool to push the pin boot over the shoulder of the mounting bolt. The pin boot must be securely in the groove of the mounting bolt. Torque the caliper mounting bolts to 80 ft. lbs. (108 Nm).
    10.  
    11. Install the tire and wheel assembly, aligning the balance marks made at removal.
    12.  
    13. Lower the vehicle.
    14.  
    15. Fill the master cylinder reservoir to the proper level using only fresh, clean DOT 3 brake fluid. Pump the brake pedal firmly to push the pistons back out into operating position and to seat the lining.
    16.  
    17. After the brake pads have been replaced and/or rotors have been refinished, GM recommends that new brake pads be broken in, or "burnished". Use the following procedure:
      1. Make 20 stops from 30 mph using medium to firm brake pedal pressure.
      2.  
      3. Take care to avoid overheating the brakes.
      4.  

    18.  

    Rear

    Two main types of rear disc brake calipers were used by GM W-Body vehicles: with built-in parking brake mechanism and without built-in parking brake mechanism.

    On vehicles with the built-in parking brake mechanism, the rear disc brake calipers have a single piston and the added complexity of a built-in parking brake mechanism. The rear calipers work in a similar fashion to the front calipers and are also mounted by two slide pin bolts.

    On vehicles with built-in parking brake mechanism, when the parking brake is applied, the external caliper parking brake lever moves and rotates a spindle within the caliper housing As the spindle rotates, a connecting rod is pushed against an internal adjusting screw which is threaded into a sleeve nut (cone) in the piston. This causes the piston to move outward bringing the inboard brake pads against the rotor. Since the caliper is free to slide on the mounting pins, as the inboard pads contact the rotor, a reaction force causes the caliper housing to slide inward, pressing the outboard brake pads against the rotor.

    The piston contains a self-adjusting mechanism to keep the parking brake in proper adjustment. As the pads wear, the piston moves through the seal to maintain proper pad-to-rotor clearance. The parking brake adjusts to proper clearances through an internal sleeve nut that rotates and moves as one unit with the piston.

    On vehicles with rear disc brake calipers without built-in parking mechanism, the rear caliper is much like a single-piston front caliper and is easily serviced. On these vehicles, the parking brake mechanism uses two small brake shoes that work against the inside of the rear brake rotor (sometimes called the 'hat'). This basic design has been used successfully for many years on the Chevrolet Corvette and many other vehicles.

    WITH BUILT-IN PARKING BRAKE MECHANISM


    Click image to see an enlarged view

    Fig. The rear disc brake caliper mounts in the same manner as the front caliper. The arrows indicate the mounting bolts (slider pins)



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    Fig. Remove the two mounting bolts (slider pins) and lift the rear caliper in the direction of the arrow, away from its mounting bracket



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    Fig. With the rear caliper removed, the outboard (1) and inboard (2) brake pads can be replaced



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    Fig. Exploded view of a rear disc brake caliper with built-in parking brake mechanism



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    Fig. Remove the outboard brake pad



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    Fig. Remove the inboard brake pad and retainer, if necessary


    NOTE
    It is not necessary to remove either the brake line or the parking brake cable from the rear disc brake caliper to replace the brake pads. Freeing the cable support bracket allows enough flexibility in the cable to pivot the caliper up and remove the brake pads.

    1. Using a suction gun, remove approximately 2 / 3 of the brake fluid from the master cylinder. The reason for this is that the caliper pistons must be pushed back into their bores so the caliper can be removed from the rotor. This could cause the brake fluid to overflow from the reservoir onto painted surfaces or wiring.
    2.  
    3. Raise and safely support the vehicle on safety stands.
    4.  
    5. Mark the relationship of the wheel to the hub so it can later be installed in the same relationship. This helps retain the balance of the rotating assembly.
    6.  
    7. Remove the rear tire and wheel assembly. Install two wheel lug nuts to keep the rotor on the hub.
    8.  
    9. Remove the bolt and washer attaching the parking brake cable support bracket to the caliper. It should not be necessary to disconnect the parking brake cable or brake hose to service the rear brake pads.
    10.  
    11. Remove the caliper slide pin bolts and carefully pivot the caliper up. Do not completely remove the caliper.
    12.  
    13. Remove the outboard and inboard brake pads from the caliper support. Remove the two pad clips (sometimes called 'anti-rattle springs').
    14.  

    To install:

    1. Bottom the piston into the caliper bore, noting the following:
      1. There is a special spanner-type tool designed to fit in the piston slots. This allows you to turn the piston and thread it into the caliper, retracting it. Use care if using a substitute tool. Careful work with suitable pliers may enable you to turn the piston back into its bore.
      2.  
      3. After bottoming the piston, lift the inner edge of the dust boot, next to the piston, and press out any trapped air. The boot must lay flat.
      4.  

    2.  



    Click image to see an enlarged view

    Fig. Before installing the brake pads, retract the piston by turning it with the proper tool or a suitable pair of pliers



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    Fig. The slots in the piston must be horizontal when the caliper is in this position

    1. Make sure the slots in the end of the piston are positioned "horizontally" when looking at the caliper with the mounting bolt holes at the 12 o'clock and 6 o'clock position. The slots in the piston must be in this position before pivoting the caliper down over the brake pads in the caliper support.
    2.  

    1. Install the two pad clips in the brake caliper support. Whenever new brake pads are installed, these clips should be in the new disc pad kit.
    2.  
    3. Install the outboard and inboard brake pads in the caliper support. The wear sensor is on the outboard pad. The sensor is positioned downward at the leading edge of the rotor during forward wheel rotation. Hold the metal pad edge against the spring end of the clips in the caliper support. Push the pad in toward the hub, bending the spring ends slightly, and engage the pad notches with the support abutments (the machined edge of the caliper support).
    4.  
    5. Pivot the caliper down over the brake pads. Take care not to damage the piston boot on the inboard side of the caliper. Compress the sleeve boot by hand as the caliper moves into position to prevent boot damage. After the caliper is in position, recheck the installation of the pad clips. If necessary, use a small flat-blade tool to re-seat or center the pad clips on the caliper support.
    6.  
    7. Install the mounting bolts and tighten to 20 ft. lbs. (27 Nm).
    8.  
    9. If removed, install the parking brake support bracket (with cable attached). The bolt is tightened to 32 ft. lbs. (44 Nm).
    10.  
    11. Install the tire and wheel assembly, aligning the balance marks made at removal.
    12.  
    13. Lower the vehicle.
    14.  
    15. Fill the master cylinder reservoir to the proper level using only fresh, clean DOT 3 brake fluid. Pump the brake pedal firmly to push the pistons back out into operating position and to seat the lining.
    16.  
    17. After the brake pads have been replaced and/or rotors have been refinished, GM recommends that new brake pads be broken in, or "burnished". Use the following procedure:
      1. Make 20 stops from 30 mph using medium to firm brake pedal pressure.
      2.  
      3. Take care to avoid overheating the brakes.
      4.  

    18.  

    WITHOUT BUILT-IN PARKING BRAKE MECHANISM
    1. Using a suction gun, remove approximately 2 / 3 of the brake fluid from the master cylinder. The reason for this is that the caliper pistons must be pushed back into their bores so the caliper can be removed from the rotor. This could cause the brake fluid to overflow from the reservoir onto painted surfaces or wiring.
    2.  
    3. Raise and safely support the vehicle on safety stands.
    4.  
    5. Mark the relationship of the wheel to the hub so it can later be installed in the same relationship. This helps retain the balance of the rotating assembly.
    6.  
    7. Remove the rear tire and wheel assembly. Install two wheel lug nuts to keep the rotor on the hub.
    8.  
    9. Install a large C-clamp over the brake caliper and against the back of the outboard brake pad. Tighten the C-clamp until the brake caliper piston pushes into the brake caliper bore enough to slide the caliper off the rotor. Remove the C-clamp.
    10.  
    11. Remove the upper brake caliper mounting bolt.
    12.  
    13. Rotate the caliper downwards to access the brake pads. Do not remove the brake caliper from the caliper bracket.
    14.  
    15. Remove the brake pads from the caliper bracket. Remove the pad clips (retainers).
    16.  



    Click image to see an enlarged view

    Fig. Use a large C-clamp to push the caliper piston back into its bore



    Click image to see an enlarged view

    Fig. The caliper does not have to be removed for brake pad replacement. Remove the upper caliper bolt and swing the caliper down for access to the brake pads



    Click image to see an enlarged view

    Fig. Exploded view of a rear disc brake caliper without built-in parking brake-1998 Oldsmobile Intrigue shown



    Click image to see an enlarged view

    Fig. Inspect the caliper mounting bolts and the rubber boots for deterioration



    Click image to see an enlarged view

    Fig. Use a small, flat-bladed tool to carefully lift the piston dust boot to release trapped air

    To install:

    1. To make room for the increased thickness of the new brake pads, the piston must be pushed back all the way into its bore. Insert a block of wood or the old brake pad between the C-clamp and the brake caliper piston to prevent damage to the piston and dust boot. Install the C-clamp over the brake caliper and against the block of wood (or old brake pad). Tighten the C-clamp until the brake caliper piston pushes completely into the brake caliper bore. Remove the C-clamp.
    2.  
    3. Inspect the caliper mounting bolt boots and the piston dust boot for cuts, wear and deterioration. Replace as necessary. When the piston is pushed back into position, air tends to get trapped under the caliper piston dust boot, causing it to bulge outward. Use a small flat-bladed tool to lift the inner edge of the caliper boot next to the piston to release any trapped air. Make sure the piston dust boot is below the level of the piston face. Inspect the caliper bolts for corrosion or damage. If corrosion exists, replace the caliper mounting bolts and the boots. Do not try to polish away corrosion.
    4.  
    5. Install the two brake pad retainers (also called pad clips or anti-rattle springs) to the caliper bracket.
    6.  
    7. Examine the new brake pads. If equipped with a sheetmetal wear indicator, it should be positioned at the leading edge (downward) of the outer pad during forward wheel rotation. Install the brake pads over the pad retainers and onto the caliper bracket.
    8.  
    9. Swing the caliper upward in position around the pads. Use care not to damage the mounting bolt boots when rotating the caliper. Lubricate the mounting bolt and boot with silicone grease. Use care to keep grease off the mounting bolt threads to avoid having the mounting bolt loosen in service. Torque the upper mounting bolt to 33 ft. lbs. (45 Nm).
    10.  
    11. Install the tire and wheel assembly, aligning the balance marks made at removal.
    12.  
    13. Lower the vehicle.
    14.  
    15. Fill the master cylinder reservoir to the proper level using only fresh, clean DOT 3 brake fluid. Pump the brake pedal firmly ( 3 / 4 of a full stroke) as many times as necessary to push the piston back out into operating position, seat the linings and obtain a firm brake pedal.
    16.  


    CAUTION
    Do not move the vehicle until a firm brake pedal is obtained. Air in the brake system can cause the loss of brakes with possible personal injury.

    1. After the brake pads have been replaced and/or rotors have been refinished, GM recommends that new brake pads be broken in, or "burnished". Use the following procedure:
      1. Make 20 stops from 30 mph using medium to firm brake pedal pressure.
      2.  
      3. Take care to avoid overheating the brakes.
      4.  

    2.  

    INSPECTION



    Brake pads (also called linings) should be inspected every 6,000 miles (9,600 km), anytime the wheels are removed (tire rotation, etc.), and certainly anytime unusual braking action and/or noise is evidenced. The sheetmetal wear indicators used on many brake pads will give a screeching when the brake pads have worn thin, indicating time for brake pad replacement.



    Click image to see an enlarged view

    Fig. This opening (arrow) in the brake caliper is for inspecting lining thickness

    Check both ends of the outer brake pad by looking in at each end of the caliper. These are the points at which the highest rate of wear normally occurs. At the same time, check the lining thickness on the inner pad to make sure that it has not worn prematurely. Some inboard brake pads have a thermal layer against the pad, integrally molded with the lining. This extra layer should not be confused with uneven inboard-outboard lining wear. Look down through the inspection hole in the top of the caliper to view the inner pad. Replace the disc brake pads whenever the thickness of any lining is worn to within 0.030 inch (0.762mm) of the pad. In the case of riveted brake pads, replace when the lining is worn to within 0.030 inch (0.762mm) of any rivet head. Replace all disc brake pads at the same time.


    NOTE
    The 0.030 inch (0.762mm) recommended minimum lining thickness is the factory-recommended measurement. Your state's automobile inspection laws may be different, and should be observed.

    The brake pads must have freedom of movement within the brake caliper bracket. If movement is restricted by rust or debris, the brake pads may remain against the rotor after the brake pedal is released. The can contribute to accelerated brake pad wear, brake pulsation and rotor damage.

    1. Using a suction gun, remove approximately 2 / 3 of the brake fluid from the master cylinder.
    2.  
    3. Raise and safely support the vehicle on safety stands.
    4.  
    5. Remove the rear tire and wheel assembly.
    6.  
    7. Install a large C-clamp over the brake caliper and against the back of the outboard brake pad. Tighten the C-clamp until the brake caliper piston pushes into the brake caliper bore as far as possible. Remove the C-clamp.
    8.  


    NOTE
    The brake pad and the brake caliper should move easily within the brake caliper bracket.

    1. Check the outer brake pad for freedom of movement relative to the brake caliper bracket. It should move easily.
    2.  
    3. Use your hands to push the brake caliper inboard as far as possible. If the brake caliper does not move easily, inspect and replace any worn or damaged brake caliper mounting bolts and/or bolt boots.
    4.  
    5. Check the inner brake pad for freedom of movement relative to the brake caliper bracket. If the brake pad movement is restricted, the caliper should be removed for cleaning. Use a wire brush to clean away any rust from the caliper bracket where the pads and retainers contact the bracket. Also clean the ends of the brake pads where they rest on the caliper bracket. Apply a thin coat of silicone grease, GM #18010909 or equivalent, to the brake pad retainers/caliper bracket where the brake pads come in contact with the brake pad retainers and bracket.
    6.  
    7. This same inspection operation should be performed on the opposite side.
    8.  

     
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