REMOVAL & INSTALLATION
8R-C and 18R-C Engines
See Figure 1
- Remove the oil pan.
- Unbolt the oil pump attaching bolts and remove the entire assembly.
- Installation requires no special procedures. Simply position the pump and reinstall the attaching bolts. Replace the oil pan.
- Fill the engine with clean engine oil.
See Figures 2, 3, 4, 5, 6, 7, 8, 9 and 10
- Drain the oil, and remove the oil pan and the oil strainer and pick-up tube.
- Remove the drive belts from the crankshaft pulley.
- Remove the crankshaft bolt, and remove the pulley with a gear puller, as outlined in the timing chain cover section.
- Remove the five bolts from the oil pump and remove the oil pump assembly.
Inspect the drive spline, driven gear, pump body, and timing chain cover for excessive wear or damage. If necessary, replace the gears or pump body or cover. Unbolt the relief valve (the vertical bolt on the pump body) when attached to the engine) and check the pistons, oil passages, and sliding surfaces for burrs or scoring. Inspect the crankshaft front oil seal and replace if worn or damaged.
When installing, use a new O-ring if necessary. Apply a sealer to the upper bolt and install the five bolts. Install the crankshaft pulley as outlined in the timing cover section, and use a new gasket on the oil strainer and oil pan. Be sure to apply sealer to the corners of the oil pan gasket before installing the pan.
See Figures 11 and 12
- Remove the engine under cover.
- Drain the oil and then remove the timing belt as detailed later in this section.
- Remove the crankshaft timing pulley.
- Raise the engine slightly and remove the oil pan.
- Remove the oil strainer. Insert a drift between the cylinder block and the oil pan baffle plate, cut off the sealer and remove the baffle plate.
When removing the baffle plate with the drift, do not damage the baffle plate flange.
- Remove the oil pump and O-ring.
- Apply sealer to the oil pump mating surface running the bead on the inside of the bolts holes. Position a new O-ring in the groove in the cylinder block and install the pump so that the spline teeth of the drive gear engage the large teeth on the crankshaft. Tighten the mounting bolts to 14 ft. lbs. (20 Nm).
- Remove any old sealer and install the baffle plate with new sealer.
- Install the oil strainer and tighten the bolts to 61 inch lbs. (7 Nm).
- Install the oil pan, crankshaft pulley and the timing belt.
- Install the undercovers.
- Fill the engine with oil and check for leaks.
See Figure 13
- Disconnect the cables which are positioned above the valve cover and move the cable aside. Remove the valve cover.
- Disconnect the cables from both batteries.
- Using a wrench on the center crankshaft pulley bolt, rotate the engine (clockwise only) until the TDC mark on the pulley is aligned with the pointer. Check that the valves of the number one cylinder are closed (rocker arms loose). If the valves are not closed, rotate the engine 360° and again align the TDC mark with the pointer.
Remove the following components as previously outlined:
- Oil pan and pump strainer assembly
- Timing cover and belt.
- Disconnect the wiring from the alternator. Remove the alternator and the mounting brackets.
- If equipped with air conditioning, unbolt the air conditioning compressor and tie it out of the way (without disconnecting the refrigerant hoses). Also remove the compressor brackets.
- Remove the fuel injection pump.
- Remove the crankshaft timing gear, using a puller.
- Unbolt and remove the water pump.
- Unbolt and remove the timing case assembly.
- Remove the oil pump cover plate from the rear of the timing case assembly to gain access to the oil pump. Clearances are checked in the same manner as the pump used in the 20R, 22R and 22R-E engines.
- Remove the pump gears and check the gears and timing case gear surfaces for damage or excessive wear.
- Install the gears with the triangular markings of each gear facing the pump plate side of the timing case.
- Install the pump cover plate.
- When installing the pump, note that all gasket surfaces must be cleaned, and that damaged gaskets must be replaced.
- Be sure to follow the specific procedures concerning timing belt installation and fuel injection pump installation, as outlined previously and in the Diesel Fuel System section.
See Figures 14 and 15
- Remove the oil pan as previously outlined.
- Remove the oil strainer and unfasten the union nuts on the oil pump pipe.
- Remove the lock wire and the oil pump retaining bolt and pipe from the engine.
Remove the oil pump cover and inspect the following parts for nicks, scoring, grooving, etc.:
- Pump cover
- Drive and driven gears
- Pump body
- Replace either the damaged parts or the complete pump if damage is excessive.
- Install the oil pump so that the slot in the oil pump shaft is in alignment with the protrusion on the governor shaft of the distributor. Tighten the mounting bolts to 13 ft. lbs. (18 Nm).
- Install the outlet pipe and tighten the union bolt to 33 ft. lbs. (44 Nm); use new gaskets.
- Install the oil pan, fill the engine with oil and check for leaks.
Be sure to check all of the gaskets and replace if necessary.
See Figures 16, 17 and 18
Toyota engines utilize three types of oil pumps. The F-series engines use a geared impeller type pump. The 20R and 22R series, the 3VZ-E, and the diesels use an automatic transmission type gear pump. The 8R-C and 18R-C use a trochoid rotary type pump. In both gear types, there is a drive gear and a driven gear; pump inspection procedures are very similar on both types. Inspection of the trochoid pumps is similar to the gear types.
- Remove the oil pump.
- Disassemble the pump by removing the oil strainer, relief valve plug, gasket, spring, and relief valve from the pump cover. Remove the cover, drive shaft and driven rotor from the pump body.
- Clean all parts in solvent and inspect for unusual wear and/or damage. Replace any parts if necessary. Pay special attention to the pump shaft, drive and driven rotors.
- Check drive-to-driven rotor tip clearance, using a feeler gauge. If clearance exceeds 0.20mm, replace the rotors as a set.
- Using the feeler gauge and a steel square or steel block, check side clearance between the rotor and pump cover surface. Replace the rotor and/or body if clearance exceeds 0.15mm.
- Measure the clearance between the driven rotor and pump body; clearance should be less than 0.15mm. Replace the body and/or rotors as a set if clearance exceeds this figure.
- When reassembling the pump, stamped marks are provided on the drive rotor and driven rotor, and should face toward the pump cover side (toward the underneath of the engine when installed).
- Check pump operation. Use a screwdriver to rotate the rotor shaft.
See Figures 19, 20, 21 and 22
- Remove the oil pump.
- Disassemble the pump by unscrewing the relief valve plug and removing the spring and relief valve piston. Remove the drive and driven gears, and clean all parts in solvent. Inspect all parts for unusual wear and replace if necessary.
- Assemble the gears into the pump body. Using a feeler gauge, measure the clearance between the driven gear and the pump body. If clearance exceeds 0.15mm on 4-cylinder engines; or 0.30mm for the 3VZ-E, replace the gear and/or body.
- Measure the clearance between both gear tips and the crescent with a feeler gauge. If clearance exceed 0.30mm on 4-cylinder engines; or 0.35mm for the 3VZ-E, replace the gears and/or body.
- Using a feeler gauge and steel square or flat steel block, measure the gear side clearance as shown. If the clearance is greater than 0.15mm, replace the gears and/or body.
- Remove the oil pump.
- Disassemble the pump by removing the relief valve plug, spring and relief valve. Remove the pump cover and riven gear. Using needlenose pliers, remove the snapring and remove the spacer, drive shaft gear, key and shaft sub-assembly.
- Clean all parts in solvent, and inspect for scoring or other unusual wear. Replace any part that looks worn or damaged.
- Measure driven gear-to-body clearance with a feeler gauge; if clearance exceeds 0.35mm, replace the gear and/or body.
- Insert a feeler gauge between the meshing faces of the two gears (gear backlash measurement). If the backlash is greater than 0.35mm, replace the shaft sub-assembly and/or driven gear.
- Using a feeler gauge and steel square or flat steel block, measure the side clearance. If clearance is greater than 0.15mm, replace the gears and/or pump body.
- Check pump operation by immersing the suction end of the pump in clean engine oil and turning the shaft counterclockwise by hand. Oil should come out of the discharge hole. Close the discharge hole with your thumb, and turn the shaft. The shaft should be difficult to turn.