AutoZone 1993 Mercedes Benz 300SL 3.0L FI 6cyl | Repair Guides | Drive Train | Rear Axle | Axle Shaft, Bearing And Seal | AutoZone.com

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    1993 Mercedes Benz 300SL 3.0L FI 6cyl

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    Ford Pick-Ups/Expedition/Navigator 1997-2000

    Axle Shaft, Bearing and Seal

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    REMOVAL & INSTALLATION



    Ford 8.8 Inch And 9.75 Inch Ring Gear


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    Fig. Fig. 1 Remove the side gear pinion shaft lockbolt and ...



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    Fig. Fig. 2 ... the side gear pinion shaft



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    Fig. Fig. 3 Push the axles in so that the C-clip groove is accessible, and remove the C-clips from the axle shafts



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    Fig. Fig. 4 Grasp the axle and slide it out of the tube

    1. Raise and safely support the vehicle on jackstands.
    2.  
    3. Remove the wheels from the brake drums.
    4.  
    5. Place a drain pan under the housing and drain the lubricant by loosening the housing cover.
    6.  
    7. Remove the locks securing the brake drums to the axle shaft flanges and remove the drums.
    8.  
    9. Remove the housing cover and gasket.
    10.  
    11. Remove the side gear pinion shaft lockbolt and the side gear pinion shaft.
    12.  
    13. Push the axle shafts inward and remove the C-locks from the inner end of the axle shafts. Temporarily replace the shaft and lockbolt to retain the differential gears in position.
    14.  
    15. Remove the axle shafts with a slide hammer. Be sure the seal is not damaged by the splines on the axle shaft.
    16.  
    17. Remove the bearing and oil seal from the housing. Both the seal and bearing can be removed with a slide hammer
    18.  
    19. Two types of bearings are used on some axles, one requiring a press fit and the other a loose fit. A loose fitting bearing does not necessarily indicate excessive wear.
    20.  
    21. Inspect the axle shaft housing and axle shafts for burrs or other irregularities. Replace any work or damaged parts. A light yellow color on the bearing journal of the axle shaft is normal, and does not require replacement of the axle shaft. Slight pitting and wear is also normal.
    22.  
    23. Lightly coat the wheel bearing rollers with axle lubricant. Install the bearings in the axle housing until the bearing seats firmly against the shoulder.
    24.  
    25. Wipe all lubricant from the oil seal bore, before installing the seal.
    26.  
    27. Inspect the original seals for wear. If necessary, these may be replaced with new seals, which are prepacked with lubricant and do not require soaking.
    28.  

    To install:

    1. Install the oil seal.
    2.  
    3. Remove the lockbolt and pinion shaft. Carefully slide the axle shafts into place. Be careful that you do not damage the seal with the splined end of the axle shaft. Engage the splined end of the shaft with the differential side gears.
    4.  
    5. Install the axle shaft C-locks on the inner end of the axle shafts and seat the C-locks in the counterbore of the differential side gears.
    6.  
    7. Rotate the differential pinion gears until the differential pinion shaft can be installed. Install the differential pinion shaft lockbolt. Tighten to 15-22 ft. lbs. (20-30 Nm).
    8.  
    9. Install the brake drum on the axle shaft flange.
    10.  
    11. Install the wheel and tire on the brake drum and tighten the attaching nuts.
    12.  
    13. Clean the gasket surface of the rear housing and install a new cover gasket and the housing cover. Some covers do not use a gasket. On these models, apply a bead of silicone sealer on the gasket surface. The bead should run inside of the bolt holes.
    14.  
    15. Raise the rear axle so that it is in the running position. Add the amount of specified lubricant to bring the lubricant level to 1 / 2 in. (12.7mm) below the filler hole.
    16.  

    Ford 10.25 Inch and 10.50 Inch Ring Gear


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    Fig. Fig. 5 Rear axle shaft retaining bolts on the Ford 10.25 inch full-floating rear axle



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    Fig. Fig. 6 Using a hub wrench to remove the hub nuts on the 10.25 inch full-floating axle



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    Fig. Fig. 7 Loosening the hub on the 10.25 inch full-floating axle



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    Fig. Fig. 8 Hub nut removal on the 10.25 inch full-floating axle



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    Fig. Fig. 9 Hub nuts for the 10.25 inch full-floating axle



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    Fig. Fig. 10 Removing the axle shaft from the Ford 10.25 inch full-floating rear axle



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    Fig. Fig. 11 Installing the step plate adapter tool on the 10.25 inch full-floating axle



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    Fig. Fig. 12 Installing the hub nuts for the 10.25 inch full-floating axle



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    Fig. Fig. 13 Unitized rear wheel seals on the 10.25 inch full-floating axle

    The wheel bearings on the full floating rear axle are packed with wheel bearing grease. Axle lubricant can also flow into the wheel hubs and bearings, however, wheel bearing grease is the primary lubricant. The wheel bearing grease provides lubrication until the axle lubricant reaches the bearings during normal operation.

    1. Set the parking brake and loosen the axle shaft bolts.
    2.  
    3. Raise the rear wheels off the floor and place jackstands under the rear axle housing so that the axle is parallel with the floor.
    4.  
    5. Remove the wheels.
    6.  
    7. Remove the brake drums.
    8.  
    9. Remove the axle shaft bolts.
    10.  
    11. Remove the axle shaft and discard the gaskets.
    12.  
    13. With the axle shaft removed, remove the gasket from the axle shaft flange studs.
    14.  
    15. Install Hub Wrench T85T-4252-AH, or equivalent, so that the drive tangs on the tool engage the slots in the hub nut.
    16.  

    The hub nuts are right-hand thread on the right hub and left-hand thread on the left hub. The hub nuts should be stamped RH and LH. Never use power or impact tools on these nuts! The nuts will ratchet during removal.

    1. Remove the hub nut.
    2.  
    3. Install step plate adapter tool D80L-630-7, or equivalent, in the hub.
    4.  
    5. Install puller D80L-1002-L, or equivalent and loosen the hub to the point of removal. Remove the puller and step plate.
    6.  
    7. Remove the hub, taking care to catch the outer bearing as the hub comes off.
    8.  
    9. Install the hub in a soft-jawed vise and pry out the hub seal.
    10.  
    11. Lift out the inner bearing.
    12.  
    13. Drive out the inner and outer bearing races with a drift.
    14.  
    15. Wash all the old grease or axle lubricant out of the wheel hub, using a suitable solvent.
    16.  
    17. Wash the bearing races and rollers and inspect them for pitting, galling, and uneven wear patterns. Inspect the roller for end wear. Replace any bearing and race that appears in any way damaged. Always replace the bearings and races as a set.
    18.  
    19. Coat the race bores with a light coat of clean, waterproof wheel bearing grease and drive the races squarely into the bores until they are fully seated. A good indication that the race is seated is when you notice the grease from the bore squashing out under the race when it contact the shoulder. Another indication is a definite change in the metallic tone when you seat the race. Just be very careful to avoid damaging the bearing surface of the race!
    20.  
    21. Pack each bearing cone and roller with a bearing packer or in the manner outlined in for the front wheel bearings on 2WD Drive trucks.
    22.  

    To install:

    1. Place the inner bearing cone and roller assembly in the wheel hub.
    2.  

    When installing the new seal, the words OIL SIDE must go inwards towards the bearing!

    1. Place the seal squarely in the hub and drive it into place. The best tool for the job is a seal driver such as T85T-1175-AH, which will stop when the seal is at the proper depth.
    2.  

    If the seal is misaligned or damaged during installation, a new seal must be installed.

    1. Clean the spindle thoroughly. If the spindle is excessively pitted, damaged or has a predominately bluish tint (from overheating), it must be replaced.
    2.  
    3. Coat the spindle with 80W/90 oil.
    4.  
    5. Pack the hub with clean, waterproof wheel bearing grease.
    6.  
    7. Pack the outer bearing with clean, waterproof wheel bearing grease in the same manner as you packed the inner bearing.
    8.  
    9. Place the outer bearing in the hub and install the hub and bearing together on the spindle.
    10.  
    11. Install the hub nut on the spindle. Make sure that the nut tab is located in the key-way prior to thread engagement. Turn the hub nut onto the threads as far as you can by hand, noting the thread direction.
    12.  
    13. Install the hub wrench tool and tighten the nut to 55-65 ft. lbs. (75-88 Nm). Rotate the hub occasionally during nut tightening.
    14.  
    15. Ratchet the nut back 5 teeth. Make sure that you hear 5 clicks!
    16.  
    17. Inspect the axle shaft O-ring seal and replace it if it looks at all bad.
    18.  
    19. Install the axle shaft.
    20.  
    21. Coat the axle shaft bolt threads with waterproof seal and install them by hand until they seat. Do not tighten them with a wrench at this time!
    22.  
    23. Check the diameter across the center of the brake shoes. Check the diameter of the brake drum. Adjust the brake shoes so that their diameter is 0.030 in. (0.76mm) less than the drum diameter.
    24.  
    25. Install the brake drum
    26.  
    27. Install the wheel.
    28.  
    29. Loosen the differential filler plug. If lubricant starts to run out, retighten the plug. If not, remove the plug and fill the housing with 80W/90 gear oil.
    30.  
    31. Lower the truck to the floor.
    32.  
    33. Tighten the wheel lugs to 140 ft. lbs. (190 Nm).
    34.  
    35. Now tighten the axle shaft bolts. Tighten them to 60-80 ft. lbs. (81-108 Nm).
    36.  

    Dana Axles


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    Fig. Fig. 14 Rear wheel hub on the Dana full-floating axle used on the F-Super Duty



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    Fig. Fig. 15 Installing the rear wheel bearings and seal



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    Fig. Fig. 16 Heavy duty wheel dolly



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    Fig. Fig. 17 Tightening the hub nut


    CAUTION
    New Dual Rear Wheel models have flat-faced lug nut replacing the old cone-shaped lug nuts. NEVER replace these new nuts with the older design! Never replace the newer designed wheels with older design wheels! The newer wheels have lug holes with special shoulders to accommodate the newly designed lug nuts.

    The wheel bearings on full floating rear axles are packed with wheel bearing grease. Axle lubricant can also flow into the wheel hubs and bearings, however, wheel bearing grease is the primary lubricant. The wheel bearing grease provides lubrication until the axle lubricant reaches the bearings during normal operation.

    1. Set the parking brake and loosen, but do not remove, the axle shaft bolts.
    2.  
    3. Raise the rear wheels off the floor and place jackstands under the rear axle housing so that the axle is parallel with the floor. The axle shafts must turn freely, so release the parking brake.
    4.  
    5. Remove the axle shaft bolts and lockwashers. They should not be re-used.
    6.  
    7. Place a heavy duty wheel dolly under the wheels and raise them so that all weight is off the wheel bearings.
    8.  
    9. Remove the axle shaft and gasket(s).
    10.  
    11. Remove the brake caliper. See .
    12.  
    13. Using a special hub nut wrench, remove the hub nut.
    14.  

    The hub nuts for both sides are right-hand thread and marked RH.

    1. Remove the outer bearing cone and pull the wheel straight off the axle.
    2.  
    3. With a piece of hardwood or a brass drift which will just clear the outer bearing cup, drive the inner bearing cone and inner seal out of the wheel hub.
    4.  

    To install:

    1. Wash all the old grease or axle lubricant out of the wheel hub, using a suitable solvent.
    2.  
    3. Wash the bearing cups and rollers and inspect them for pitting, galling, and uneven wear patterns. Inspect the roller for end wear.
    4.  
    5. If the bearing cups are to be replaced, drive them out with a brass drift. Install the new cups with a block of wood and hammer or press them in.
    6.  
    7. If the bearing cups are properly seated, a 0.0015 in. (0.038mm) feeler gauge will not fit between the cup and the wheel hub. The gauge should not fit beneath the cup. Check several places to make sure the cups are squarely seated.
    8.  
    9. Pack each bearing cone and roller with a bearing packer or in the manner outlined for the front wheel bearings on 2WD trucks in . Use a multi-purpose wheel bearing grease.
    10.  
    11. Place the inner bearing cone and roller assembly in the wheel hub. Install a new inner seal in the hub with a seal installation tool.
    12.  
    13. Wrap the threads of the spindle with tape and carefully slide the hub straight on the spindle. Take care to avoid damaging the seal! Remove the tape.
    14.  
    15. Install the outer bearing. Start the hub nut, making sure that the hub tab is engaged with the key-way prior to threading.
    16.  
    17. Tighten the nut to 65-75 ft. lbs. (88-102 Nm) while rotating the wheel.
    18.  

    The hub will ratchet at torque is applied. This ratcheting can be avoided by using Ford tool No. T88T-4252-A. Avoiding ratcheting will give more even bearing preloads.

    1. Back off (loosen) the adjusting nut 90° ( 1 / 4 turn). Then, tighten it to 15-20 ft. lbs. (20-27 Nm).
    2.  
    3. Using a dial indicator, check end-play of the hub. No end-play is permitted.
    4.  
    5. Clean the hub bolt holes thoroughly. Replace the hub if any cracks are found around the holes or if the threads in the holes are in any way damaged.
    6.  
    7. Install the axle shaft, new flange gasket, lock washers and new shaft retaining bolts. Coat the bolt threads with thread adhesive. Tighten them snugly, but not completely.
    8.  
    9. Install the caliper.
    10.  
    11. Install the wheels.
    12.  
    13. Lower the truck to the groups.
    14.  
    15. Tighten the wheel lug nuts.
    16.  
    17. Tighten the axle shaft bolts to 40-55 ft. lbs. (54-75 Nm).
    18.  

     
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