Duralast Axle Shaft Bearing - Rear

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Part Number: TRP59047
Alternate Part Number: TRP59047

Warranty: 1 YR
In Stock
In Stock
Est. Delivery: Oct 27-28
Price: $ 26.99
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Product Details
Part Number: TRP59047
Weight: 1.65lbs
Warranty: 1 YR
Notes: Kit
Shipping Information: Overnight and Two Day shipping are not available for PO Box, APO/FPO/DPO or US Territory addresses.
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    Duralast/Wheel Bearing - Rear


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    This review is hidden because you have chosen to ignore Member 877875423. Show DetailsHide Details

    awesome, with a caveat

    extended real axle bearing for a gm 10 bolt, this is the fix for "seal groove itis" on that pricey 10 bolt axle. if you pull an axle, and see a dull finish where the rollers actually support the axle, and/or that groove about 1/4 inch outboard, this bearing/seal assembly is the medicine for your ills (and actually cheaper than the stock bearing and seal by a few coins, so savings all around for my fellow cheapskates). now, the caveat. look at the pics above, the new bearing has seals on BOTH ends. if, by luck of the draw, like me you get one with only the outer seal (mine was a Timken "equivalent") that snuck past QC, save yourself some substantial grief, and just return it, it will seep oil. now, a word on the construction of these bearings. originally, the bearing sits in a deep counterbore, press fit, the seal in a shallower, larger id counterbore. the timken replacement ONLY actually bore on the seal counterbore, with a slight clearance in the "original bearing" counterbore. easy in and out, but not an incredibly impressive amount of friction surface retaining it in place. the duralast bearing was actually far superior to the timken, even if one forgets the missing inner seal on the timken. every section of the duralast was just a little bigger, adding up to a visibly longer shell. the section (rough turned) that fits in the original bearing bore is a tight drive fit, thus giving FAR better support than even the original bearing did. but, that superior support comes at a price, it is an absolute BEAST to seat. avail yourself of a 5 lb deadblow hammer, and a proper, well fitting FORGED bearing driver punch. i had to "primitive" it (cup and drive anvil from a bad ball joint press, alternating with the old bearing, and a 3 lb drilling hammer), and it took the better part of forever, along with providing a good 2 weeks of cardio (just on the cursing, truth be told, lol). even with the "right" set-up, budget LOTS of time, and even more patience for this job. i was "working behind" a previous wrench who pretty obviously had stock in a thread locking compound producer, because EVERYTHING (including the bearing, and the carrier cross bolt that retains the spider shaft) was generously glued in place with a fairly stout formulation. hammering wrenches to open the diff carrier cover is a test of patience, and vocabulary. please, don't do this, lol. now, as to pulling the old, original bearing. a minimum 5 lb slide hammer, with at least a locking 3 jaw puller (and preferably a toggle t), all quality forged parts (NOT a generic cheapo with loose hooks made from recycled soup cans) is absolutely required, and you will still seriously consider the merits of blasting, especially if the previous "helpful harry" glued it in for you. my old one actually dragged bits of the counterbore shoulder out, lol. the NEW bearing WILL sit somewhere around 1/8 inch proud of the end of the axle tube, it does NOT get driven flush (you will hear it bottom, the note of the hammer strike changes). you may well convince yourself "it's there" further out, but your axle will not be able to accept the c-clip inside the diff... voice of experience, lol. ok, after all the "horror stories", final results? nothing short of "incredibly awesome". no more clunking, evil traction control gremlins exorcised, and a smiling lady heaping extra rations on the dinner plate, lol. once again "Autozone and Duralast to the rescue"!!!! one last note, buy 3 jugs of gear oil, it requires about 2 1/2 ish

    Pros: saves having to spend huge dough on an axle, makes the lady who drives the truck smile when she no longer hears clunking when she runs over a gum wrapper

    Cons: QC issues at Timken resulted in double work, but the "duralast" labeled part was PERFECT (made in china too, lol), removing the old bearing can be a bear of a job even with the right tool

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    This part DOES NOT fit your selected vehicle.
    2007 Pontiac Grand Prix 3.8L SFI OHV 6cyl
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