AMC Coupes/Sedans/Wagons 1975-1988 Repair Information

Adjustments

Print

PEDAL FREE-PLAY 4-121 Engine



See Figure 1

Click image to see an enlarged view

Fig. Fig. 1: Clutch linkage assembly1977-79 4-121 engine

The clutch pedal free-play is adjusted by varying the length of the control cable. The preferred free-play is 1 1 / 8 in. (28.6mm).

  1. To adjust the cable, loosen the cable locknut at the rear of the cable and pull the cable forward until the free-play is eliminated from the throwout lever.
  2.  
  3. Rotate the adjuster nut toward the rear of the cable until the nut tabs contact the clutch housing.
  4.  
  5. Release the cable housing and turn the adjuster nut until the tabs engage the slots on the clutch housing.
  6.  
  7. Tighten the clutch cable locknut. Recheck clutch pedal free-play.
  8.  

6-Cylinder and V8 Engines See Figure 2

Click image to see an enlarged view

Fig. Fig. 2: Exploded view of the clutch pedal and linkage components on 6 and 8-cylinder engines through 1980

A free-play measurement of 7 / 8 -1 1 / 8 in. (22.23-28.6mm) is acceptable. Adjust the free-play by varying the length of the bellcrank-to-throwout lever rod. Lengthen to reduce and shorten to increase free-play. The easiest way to measure free-play is to hold a yardstick alongside the clutch pedal and press the pedal down until you can feel spring tension.

The 1981 and later 6-cylinder models and all 4-150 and 4-151 models have a hydraulic clutch which requires no adjustment.

Several different clutch assemblies have been used over the years. For correct clutch identification, see the accompanying illustrations.

REMOVAL & INSTALLATION 4-121 Engine



See Figures 3 and 4

Click image to see an enlarged view

Fig. Fig. 3: Clutch driven plate used on 4-121 engines1977-79 models



Click image to see an enlarged view

Fig. Fig. 4: Clutch pressure plate used on 1977-79 4-121 engines with HR-1 4-speed transmission and all 1980-82 4-cylinder engines


CAUTION
The clutch driven disc may contain asbestos, which has been determined to be a cancer causing agent. Never clean clutch surfaces with compressed air! Avoid inhaling any dust from any clutch surface! When cleaning clutch surfaces, use a commercially available brake cleaning fluid.

  1. Remove the transmission.
  2.  
  3. Mark the clutch cover and flywheel for reassembly. Remove the cover and driven plate by loosening the bolts alternately and in several stages to avoid cover distortion.
  4.  

Inspect the flywheel surface for heat cracks, scoring, or blue heat marks. Check the flywheel capscrews for proper torque. It will be necessary to lock-up the flywheel ring gear with a block or flywheel holding clamp tool before tightening these capscrews.

To install:
  1. Align the driven plate and the cover on the flywheel with the marks made during removal and install the cover bolts finger-tight. Make sure the cover is engaged with the flywheel dowel pins.
  2.  
  3. Using a clutch alignment tool, align the driven plate. Tighten the cover bolts to 23 ft. lbs.
  4.  
  5. Install the transmission and the clutch housing assembly. It may be necessary to raise the front of the engine.
  6.  
  7. Position the rear crossmember on the side sills and finger-tighten the bolts. Install the transmission-to-crossmember bolts. Tighten the crossmember nuts.
  8.  
  9. The remainder of the installation is the reverse of removal. Be sure, when installing the gearshift lever that the shift rail insert is facing straight down and the offset on the side of the lever fork is facing the right side of the extension housing before installing the lever.
  10.  

4-150 Engine See Figures 5 and 6

Click image to see an enlarged view

Fig. Fig. 5: Exploded view of the 9 inch clutch assembly1975-76 models



Click image to see an enlarged view

Fig. Fig. 6: Exploded view of the 10 inch clutch assembly1975-76 models


CAUTION
The clutch driven disc may contain asbestos, which has been determined to be a cancer causing agent. Never clean clutch surfaces with compressed air! Avoid inhaling any dust from any clutch surface! When cleaning clutch surfaces, use a commercially available brake cleaning fluid.

  1. Remove the transmission.
  2.  
  3. Remove the starter.
  4.  
  5. Remove the throwout bearing and sleeve assembly.
  6.  
  7. Remove the bell housing.
  8.  
  9. Mark the clutch cover, pressure plate and the flywheel with a center punch so that these parts can be later installed in the same position.
  10.  
  11. Remove the clutch cover-to-flywheel attaching bolts. When removing these bolts, loosen them in rotation, one or two turns at a time, until the spring tension is released. The clutch cover is a steel stamping which could be warped by improper removal procedures, resulting in clutch chatter when reused.
  12.  

To install:
  1. Remove the clutch assembly from the flywheel.
  2.  
  3. The clutch release bearing (throwout bearing) is lubricated at time of assembly and no attempt should be made to lubricate it. Put a small amount of grease in the pilot bushing.
  4.  
  5. Install the driven plate with the short end of the hub toward the flywheel. Use a spare transmission mainshaft or an aligning arbor to align the pressure plate assembly and the driven plate.
  6.  
  7. Leave the arbor in place while tightening the pressure plate screws evenly a turn or two at a time. Torque the bolts to 40 ft. lbs.
  8.  
  9. Install the bellhousing. Torque the bolts to 40 ft. lbs.
  10.  
  11. Install the throwout bearing and sleeve assembly.
  12.  
  13. Install the starter.
  14.  
  15. Install the transmission.
  16.  

4-151 Engine See Figure 7

Click image to see an enlarged view

Fig. Fig. 7: Typical clutch driven disc used on 4-151 engines


CAUTION
The clutch driven disc may contain asbestos, which has been determined to be a cancer causing agent. Never clean clutch surfaces with compressed air! Avoid inhaling any dust from any clutch surface! When cleaning clutch surfaces, use a commercially available brake cleaning fluid.

  1. Remove the starter, disconnect the slave cylinder spring at the throwout lever, and remove the transmission.
  2.  
  3. Remove the clutch housing to engine bolts. Remove the housing.
  4.  
  5. Remove the throwout bearing.
  6.  
  7. Matchmark the clutch cover and flywheel for installation. Loosen the clutch cover bolts alternately and evenly, to avoid distortion, and remove the clutch cover and disc.
  8.  
  9. Inspect the parts for signs of overheating (blue color), scoring, or abnormal wear. Overheated parts should be replaced. Deep scoring or wear may require replacement of the disc and cover, and refacing or replacement of the flywheel.
  10.  

To install:
  1. Place the disc and cover on the flywheel, aligning the marks made previously if the same cover is being used. Be sure the cover is engaged with the dowel pins. Install the cover bolts finger-tight.
  2.  
  3. Align the disc with an alignment tool.
  4.  
  5. Tighten the cover bolts alternately and evenly to 23 ft. lbs. Remove the alignment tool.
  6.  
  7. Install the throwout bearing, clutch housing, and transmission. The housing-to-engine bolts and transmission-to-housing bolts should be tightened to 54 ft. lbs.
  8.  

6 and 8-Cylinder Engines See Figures 8 through 32

Click image to see an enlarged view

Fig. Fig. 8: Clutch pressure plate for all 1977-78 models with SR4 4-speed transmission; 1979-80 6 and 8-cylinder Pacer, Concord and AMX models with SR4 4-speed transmission; 1982 6-cylinder Spirit and Concord models



Click image to see an enlarged view

Fig. Fig. 9: Typical clutch driven disc used on 6 and 8-cylinder engines1977-82 models



Click image to see an enlarged view

Fig. Fig. 10: Clutch pressure plate for all 1977-78 3-speed models; 1979 6-cylinder Spirit with 150T 3-speed or SR4 4-speed transmission; 1980 6-cylinder Spirit with 4-speed transmission; 1981 6-cylinder models; 1982 6-cylinder Eagle models



Click image to see an enlarged view

Fig. Fig. 11: Typical clutch alignment tool, note how the splines match the transmission's input shaft



Click image to see an enlarged view

Fig. Fig. 12: Loosen and remove the clutch and pressure plate bolts evenly, a little at a time ...



Click image to see an enlarged view

Fig. Fig. 13: ... then carefully remove the clutch and pressure plate assembly from the flywheel



Click image to see an enlarged view

Fig. Fig. 14: Check across the flywheel surface, it should be flat



Click image to see an enlarged view

Fig. Fig. 15: If necessary, lock the flywheel in place and remove the retaining bolts ...



Click image to see an enlarged view

Fig. Fig. 16: ... then remove the flywheel from the crankshaft in order replace it or have it machined



Click image to see an enlarged view

Fig. Fig. 17: Upon installation, it is usually a good idea to apply a thread-locking compound to the flywheel bolts



Click image to see an enlarged view

Fig. Fig. 18: Check the pressure plate for excessive wear



Click image to see an enlarged view

Fig. Fig. 19: Be sure that the flywheel surface is clean, before installing the clutch



Click image to see an enlarged view

Fig. Fig. 20: Install a clutch alignment arbor, to align the clutch assembly during installation



Click image to see an enlarged view

Fig. Fig. 21: Clutch plate installed with the arbor in place



Click image to see an enlarged view

Fig. Fig. 22: Clutch plate and pressure plate installed with the alignment arbor in place



Click image to see an enlarged view

Fig. Fig. 23: Pressure plate-to-flywheel bolt holes should align



Click image to see an enlarged view

Fig. Fig. 24: You may want to use a thread locking compound on the clutch assembly bolts



Click image to see an enlarged view

Fig. Fig. 25: Install the clutch assembly bolts and tighten in steps, using an X pattern



Click image to see an enlarged view

Fig. Fig. 26: Be sure to use a torque wrench to tighten all bolts



Click image to see an enlarged view

Fig. Fig. 27: View of the clutch and pressure plate assembly



Click image to see an enlarged view

Fig. Fig. 28: Troubleshooting the Manual Transmission and transfer Case



Click image to see an enlarged view

Fig. Fig. 29: Troubleshooting the Manual Transmission and Transfer Case (Cont.)



Click image to see an enlarged view

Fig. Fig. 30: Troubleshooting the Manual transmission and transfer case (Cont.)



Click image to see an enlarged view

Fig. Fig. 31: Manual Transmission Application Chart



Click image to see an enlarged view

Fig. Fig. 32: Troubleshooting Basic Clutch Problems

  1. Remove the transmission and the starter.
  2.  
  3. Disconnect the clutch linkage at the release lever.
  4.  
  5. Remove the capscrews that hold the bellhousing (clutch housing) to the engine. It may be necessary to more the rear of the engine up or down to gain wrench clearance.
  6.  

Any shims between the housing and engine must be replaced in exactly the same place to prevent misalignment.

  1. Remove the throwout lever, washer, bearing and sleeve assembly.
  2.  
  3. Matchmark the clutch cover, pressure plate, and flywheel before removal to ensure proper balance.
  4.  
  5. Loosen each clutch cover capscrew a few turns at a time until spring tension is released, then remove the cover, pressure plate, and disc.
  6.  

To install:
  1. Check the pilot bushing in the end of the crankshaft for scoring or looseness. If it is necessary to replace the bushing, use either an expanding end slide hammer or a suitable tap. Screwing the tap into the bore until it bottoms will force the bushing out. Another way to remove the bushing is to pack it and the crankshaft cavity with grease, then insert the clutch shaft aligning tool (dummy pilot shaft) into the bushing and tap it with a soft hammer. The bushing will be pushed out. It is important to clean out all the grease.
  2.  

Lubricate the bushing with grease before installing the clutch. Sometimes there is a lubricating wick, which should be soaked in engine oil, then placed in the crankshaft cavity.

  1. Inspect the flywheel surface for heat cracks, scoring, or blue heat marks. Check the flywheel capscrews for proper torque (105 ft. lbs.). It will be necessary to lock-up the flywheel ring gear with a block or flywheel holding clamp tool before tightening these capscrews.
  2.  

The throwout (release) linkage consists of a forked, pivoted lever contacting the bearing at one end and the linkage pushrod on the other. A return spring keeps the lever in contact with the ball pivot.

The throwout bearing itself is prelubricated and cannot be repacked if dry. A bad bearing results in uneven clutch pedal pressure and a grinding, rattling noise when the pedal is depressed. Replace any noisy throwout bearings as soon as is practicable to prevent disintegration and possible transmission or clutch damage.

  1. Slide the new clutch disc onto the transmission input shaft to check for binding. Remove any burrs from either the splines or hub using emery paper, then clean with a safe solvent.
  2.  
  3. Place the clutch disc against the flywheel and secure it by inserting a dummy pilot shaft (such shafts, made of wood, are available from automotive jobbers) or an old transmission input shaft.
  4.  
  5. Place the new pressure plate (it's always a good policy to replace the pressure plate when installing a new disc) in position, after first making sure that the clutch disc is facing the proper direction (the flywheel side is marked), and that the matchmarks are aligned if the old pressure plate is used.
  6.  
  7. Install all the capscrews finger-tight. Tighten the screws a little at a time, working around the pressure plate to avoid distorting it, to 40 ft. lbs. Remove the pilot shaft.
  8.  

Do not depress the clutch pedal until the transmission is installed or the throwout bearing will fall out.

  1. Install the clutch housing, throwout bearing and transmission. Hook up the clutch linkage and check the adjustment.
  2.  

 
label.common.footer.alt.autozoneLogo