REMOVAL & INSTALLATION Except Eagle
See Figure 1
- Raise the front end and remove the wheel.
- Remove the caliper and adapter assembly. Details are given earlier.
- Wire the caliper to the suspension to prevent straining the brake line.
- Remove the grease cap, cotter pin, nut, and washer front the wheel spindle.
- Pull the disc out slightly and push it back. Remove the outer wheel bearing.
- Remove the hub and disc.
- Make sure that the grease in the hub is clean, that the wheel bearings are both packed with grease, and that the disc surfaces are clean.
- Slide the hub and disc onto the spindle.
- Install the outer bearing, washer, and nut. Adjust the wheel bearings as described later in this section. Install the cotter pin.
- Clean the grease cap and coat the inside with grease. Don't pack it full. Install it.
- Replace the caliper.
- On replacing the wheel, torque the nuts to 75 ft. lbs.
You may feel a little silly torquing wheel nuts, but this is important to prevent distorting the disc.
- Loosen the wheel retaining nuts.
- Raise and support the automobile.
- Remove the front wheels.
- Remove the caliper assembly but do not disconnect the brake line. Suspend the caliper from a wire hook attached to the front spring. Do not let the brake hose support the weight of the caliper.
- Remove the rotor. Pull the rotor straight off of the hub.
- Install the rotor on the hub.
- Install the caliper.
- Install the wheel. Tighten the wheel retaining nuts to 75 ft. lbs.
- Lower the automobile.
See Figures 2, 3 and 4
The disc can be checked for runout (wobble) and thickness variations with a dial indicator and a micrometer while mounted on the car, or in a lathe. Runout should not exceed 0.005 in. (0.127mm) and thickness variation should not exceed 0.001 in. (0.025mm). The disc can be machined, but the final thickness must be at least 0.940 in. (23.876mm).
These are the factory's specifications; some state inspection laws aren't this lenient.