If the original door is being removed and installed again, one trick is to apply short pieces of masking tape, one piece to bridge the gap between the door and the rocker panel and the second piece to bridge the gap between the door and the rear door or quarter panel, depending on the door being serviced. Cut the tape at the gap using a sharp blade. When the door is being installed, use the tape as an alignment guide to get the door back into position as close as possible to the original location.
Remove the front fender insulator to gain access to the body side hinge bolts. The following may be helpful.
- The front fender insulator attaches to the fender liner at the rear of the liner. One some models it may be possible to remove the insulator by disengaging the mounting tabs from the studs and pulling it off. On other models, it may be necessary to remove the front fender liner first, using the following as a guide.
- To remove the front fender liner, it will likely be necessary to first remove the front tire and wheel assembly for access.
- Remove the screws from the front fender liner. There may be a screw at the front tab of the liner at the lower engine compartment side rail.
- Remove the screws from the liner at the rear of the fender and work the liner from the vehicle.
- With access to the body side hinge bolts, loosen, but do not remove the two 13mm body side hinge bolts.
- Loosen the one 10mm cone adjuster body hide hinge bolt. Do not remove the 10mm bolt. A cone attached to the back side of the hinge may fall off and end up in the bottom of the A-Pillar (forward door post) causing a rattle. This cone is used for assembly purposes only and need not be removed to adjust the door hinge strap (body side hinges).
- Loosen, but do not remove the one Torx® bolt.
- Adjust the door fore and aft by repositioning the door as necessary.
When satisfied with the fit, tighten the bolts as follows:
- Tighten the Torx® bolt first to 89 inch lbs. (10 Nm).
- Tighten the 10mm cone bolt to 89 inch lbs. (10 Nm).
- Tighten the 13mm bolts to 24 ft. lbs. (33 Nm).
- Install the fender insulator/fender liner.
- Loosen, but do not remove, the two 13mm door side hinge bolts.
- Move the door up or down and in or out by reposition the door as necessary. An assistant may be required.
- When satisfied with the fit, tighten the bolts to 24 ft. lbs. (33 Nm).
Apply a thin coating of Dielectric Silicone Grease GM Part Number 12345579, or equivalent. Apply sparingly and buff with a soft, dry cloth.
Some production door hardware attaching screws contain an epoxy thread-locking compound to ensure that the original torque setting will be maintained.
Service (replacement parts) attaching screws may not contain a thread-locking compound. To prevent loosening of service screws or to renew thread-locking characteristics of production screws, the threads of the fastener(s) can be treated with GM #12345382 Adhesive/Sealant Compound, or equivalent. Upon installation and drying, the adhesive cures to bond the attachment and to prevent it from backing out. The adhesive bond does not prevent future attachment removal, if required. Adhesive/Sealant Compound or equivalent can be used on any threaded fastener.
Removal & Installation
The door hinges are bolted to the door and body. The door side hinges have elongated holes which allow for some up and down and in and out adjustment. The body side hinges have elongated holes which allow for some fore and aft adjustment.
- Turn off the radio Theftlock® feature, if equipped.
- Raise the window all the way.
- Disconnect the negative battery cable and disarm the air bag system. Please see Section 6 for Air Bag Disarming procedures.
- Clean the hinge mounting surfaces on the door with a shop cloth and mark the hinge location on the door surface (and on the body pillar, if the hinges are being replaced, too) with a grease pencil or other suitable marker.
The electrical connections to the door must be detached. Use the following procedure:
- Remove the door trim panel using the procedures found in this section. Please note that GM specifies that when an inner trim panel is removed, new trim panel retainers MUST be used at assembly.
- Remove the plastic water deflector sheet. Work it loose from its pressure-sensitive tape along the bottom and sides and peel it up out of the way.
- If equipped, remove the energy absorber pad.
- Remove the door speaker(s).
- Tag for identification as necessary and detach the electrical connectors. Use care. There are numerous wires and connectors running to the door.
- There is a rubber tube, or conduit, through which the electric wires to the door are routed. Carefully work this conduit loose from the door and pull the wiring harness through the opening in the door.
- The doors on this vehicle are heavy and difficult to balance. With an assistant or two steadying the door and with some sort of support under the door (many shops use a floor jack with lots of padding on the lift saddle to protect the paint), remove the 13mm bolts on the door side (not the body side) of the hinge and separate the door from the vehicle.
- With an assistant or two steadying the door and with an adjustable support (floor jack) under the door, carefully install the door to the vehicle, using care to raise the door to meet and align with the door hinge bolt openings and the grease pencil outlines made earlier. When satisfied with the fit, coat the door hinge bolt threads with Loctite® Blue thread-locking compound (GM # 12345382, or equivalent) then install the 13mm bolts and tighten to 24 ft. lbs. (33 Nm). Remove the support.
- Feed the door wiring harness through the opening in the door and route to the proper door devices, using the identification tags made at removal. Secure the rubber conduit to the door opening.
- Align the door, as required, using the procedures found in this section.
- Install the remaining components removed earlier.