The usual procedure for testing shock absorbers is to stand on the bumper at the end nearest the shock being tested and start the vehicle bouncing up and down. Step off; the vehicle should come to rest within one bounce cycle. Another good test is to drive the vehicle over a bumpy road. Bouncing over bumps is normal, but the shock absorbers should stop the bouncing, after the bump is passed, within one or two cycles.
REMOVAL & INSTALLATION
The usual procedure is to replace shock absorbers in axle pairs, to provide equal damping. Heavy duty replacements are available for firmer control.
- Raise and support the front axle as necessary.
- Remove the bolt and nut from the lower shock end.
- On two wheel drive original equipment shocks, remove the upper stud nut from inside the frame. Most aftermarket replacement two wheel drive shocks replace the original stud fixed to the top of the shock with a double ended stud; if you have these, you can just remove the outer nut. On four wheel drive shocks, remove the upper bolt and nut.
- Purge the new shock of air by extending it in its normal position and compressing it while inverted. Do this several times. It is normal for there to be more resistance to extension than to compression.
- Install the shock absorber. Tighten the two wheel drive upper stud nut (inside the frame) to 140 ft. lbs. and the four wheel drive upper bolt to 65 ft. lbs. Tighten the two wheel drive lower bolt to 75 ft. lbs. for 1969-72, and 60 ft. lbs. for 1973-82. Tighten the four wheel drive lower bolt to 65 ft. lb. You can tighten the two wheel drive outer top stud nut mentioned in Step 3 to about 60 ft. lbs.