- Raise and safely support the trunk with jackstands.
- Remove the wheel and tire.
- Back off the brake adjustment and remove the drum.
- Disconnect and plug the brake line.
- Remove the brake shoe pull-back springs.
- Remove the screws securing the wheel cylinder to the backing plate. Later models have their wheel cylinders retained by a round retainer. To release the locking tabs, insert two awls into the access slots to bend the tabs back. Install the new retainer over the wheel cylinder abutment using a 1 1 / 8 in. 12-point socket and socket extension.
- Disengage the wheel cylinder pushrods from the brake shoes and remove the wheel cylinder.
- To install, place the wheel cylinder into position and tighten the retaining bolts to 180 inch lbs. Install the pushrods, then install the inlet tube and tighten to 120-280 inch lbs. Bleed the brake system.
Wheel cylinder overhaul procedures are similar to those for the master cylinder. Overhaul kits containing the necessary replacements are readily available. When rebuilding and installing the wheel cylinders, avoid introducing any contaminants into the system. Cleaning and honing procedures are the same as those for the master cylinder.
- Remove the boots from the cylinder ends with pliers and discard the boots.
- Remove the pistons and cups and discard them.
- Wash the cylinder and metal parts in denatured alcohol.
- Blow the parts dry; do not use a rag to clean them.
- Inspect the piston and replace it if it shows scratches.
- Lubricate the cylinder bore and counterbore with brake fluid.
- Install the rubber cups-flat side out-followed by the pistons-flat side in.
- Insert new boots into the counterbores by hand. Do not lubricate the boots.
- Front wheel cylinders are secured to the backing plate by a threaded anchor pin. Torque the pin to 65 ft lbs.