See Figures 1 through 7
At engine tune-up, or at least once a year, check the condition of the drive belts and check and adjust belt tension as below:
INSPECTION AND ADJUSTMENT
- Inspect all belts for signs of glazing or cracking. A glazed belt will be perfectly smooth from slippage, while a good belt will have a slight texture of fabric visible. Cracks will usually start at the inner edge of the belt and run outward. Replace the belt at the first sign of cracking or if glazing is severe.
- Belt tension does not refer to play or droop. By placing your thumb midway between the two pulleys, it should be possible to depress each belt about 10mm with about 20 lbs. (10 Kg) pressure. The air pump belt runs looser than this. You should be able to depress it about 15mm. If the belt can be depressed more than this, or cannot be depressed this much, adjust the tension. Inadequate tension will result in slippage and wear, while excessive tension will damage bearings and cause belts to fray and crack.
- To adjust the tension on components, loosen the pivot and mounting bolts of the component, or idler pulley, which the belt is driving. Use a soft wooden hammer handle, a broomstick, or the like to pry the component toward or away from the engine until the proper tension is achieved. Do not use a screwdriver or other metal device, such as a prybar, as a lever.
- Tighten the component mounting bolts securely. If a new belt has been installed, check the tension after about 200 miles of driving. Adjust if necessary.
- If belt tension at the idler pulley bracket is incorrect, loosen the locknut, then turn the adjusting bolt to move the idler pulley up or down until the belt tension is correct. Tighten the locknut securely and recheck the adjustment.