Chrysler Front Wheel Drive Cars 4-CYL 1981-1995 Repair Information

Calipers

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REMOVAL & INSTALLATION



When replacing the front disc brake pads, remove some of the brake fluid from the master cylinder first, then after removing the caliper use a large C-clamp or equivalent and slowly compress the piston back into the caliper bore to aid installation. On vehicles equipped with an ABS system, refer to the necessary service procedures.

ATE-Type Brake Caliper

See Figures 1 through 9

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Fig. Fig. 1: After removing the front wheel, loosen the upper brake adapter retaining bolt ...



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Fig. Fig. 2: ... then remove it from the adapter bracket



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Fig. Fig. 3: Remove the lower caliper adapter bracket retaining bolt as well



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Fig. Fig. 4: Install a hose clamp onto the hydraulic brake hose ...



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Fig. Fig. 5: ... clean all dirt and grime from the hose-to-caliper mounting area ...



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Fig. Fig. 6: ... loosen the brake hose banjo bolt ...



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Fig. Fig. 7: ... and separate the brake hose from the caliper



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Fig. Fig. 8: Remove the brake caliper and adapter as one unit



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Fig. Fig. 9: If necessary, the brake rotor can now easily be removed from the axle hub

This procedure is for removal of the caliper and adapter together; if the brake pads must be removed as well, refer to the brake pad procedure earlier in this section.

This non-family caliper is used on some 1981-87 models. This caliper, unlike the later non-family caliper, does utilize an adapter. During the period between 1981-87, this is the only dual-pin caliper used; the single pin caliper is a Kelsey-Hayes type and is covered later in this section.

  1. Apply the parking brake, block the rear wheels, then raise and securely support the front of the vehicle on jackstands.
  2.  
  3. Remove the front wheels.
  4.  
  5. Remove the caliper adapter bracket retaining bolts.
  6.  
  7. Disconnect and cap the brake line. If only the pads are being removed, support the caliper with wire in such a way that the brake line will not be stressed.
  8.  
  9. Lift the caliper and adapter assembly away from the rotor.
  10.  

To install:
  1. Slide the caliper and adapter assembly over the brake rotor and into position against the hub.
  2.  
  3. Install the adapter-to-hub mounting bolts and tighten them to 130-190 ft. lbs. (176-258 Nm).
  4.  
  5. Install the brake hose to the caliper along with new copper washers and install the banjo bolt. Tighten the banjo bolt to 19-29 ft. lbs. (26-40 Nm).
  6.  
  7. Install the wheels and tighten the lugs to 461 inch lbs. (61 Nm) in a star pattern, then tighten them to the full torque of 961 inch lbs. (129 Nm).
  8.  
  9. If the brake hose was disconnected from the caliper, bleed the system thoroughly, as described earlier in this section.
  10.  
  11. Pump the brake pedal several times to ensure that the brake pads seat against the rotor. The pedal must give resistance at the normal position before attempting to drive the car. Drive the car at moderate speeds in an isolated area in order to apply the brakes several times to test the system and seat the new linings.
  12.  

Double Pin Non-Family Caliper

See Figure 10

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Fig. Fig. 10: Familiarize yourself with the caliper mounting before starting the repairs


WARNING
On vehicles equipped with a Bendix Type 6 Anti-lock Brake System (ABS), a Diagnostic Readout Box (DRB or DRB II) is necessary for brake system bleeding. Failure to use a DRB to bleed the system will lead to system failure. Refer to the ABS portion of this section for bleeding procedures and precautions.

This front brake caliper was available on some of the 1991-93 vehicles covered by this information. The exact models equipped with these calipers in contrast to the other double pin Kelsey-Hayes caliper is not known. This caliper is characterized by the lack of an adapter, to which the caliper is mounted. The non-family double pin caliper, therefore, mount directly to the steering knuckle by 2 through-bolts.

  1. Remove the master cylinder reservoir lid and remove some of the brake fluid from the master cylinder.
  2.  
  3. Slightly loosen the front wheel lug nuts.
  4.  
  5. Raise and support the front end on jackstands.
  6.  
  7. Remove the front wheels.
  8.  
  9. Remove the brake caliper assembly-to-steering knuckle attaching guide pin bolts.
  10.  
  11. Pull the lower end of the brake caliper out from the machined abutment on the steering knuckle. Then roll the caliper out and away from the rotor. The pads will remain on the caliper.
  12.  

Support the caliper with strong wire or cord from the vehicle frame to prevent the weight of the caliper from damaging the flexible hose.

  1. If the caliper is to be overhauled, perform the following:
    1. Place a small piece of wood between the piston and caliper fingers.
    2.  
    3. Carefully depress the brake pedal to hydraulically push the piston out of the bore. The brake pedal will fall away when the piston has passed the bore opening. Then prop the brake pedal to any position below the first inch (25mm) of pedal travel (in other words, the brake pedal should be held in the down position); this will prevent the loss of brake fluid from the master cylinder.
    4.  
    5. If both front calipers are to be removed, disconnect the flexible brake line at the frame bracket after removing the piston. Plug the brake tube and remove the piston from the opposite caliper, using the same process as above for the first piston removal.
    6.  

  2.  


CAUTION
Under no condition should air pressure be used to remove the piston from the caliper bore. Personal injury could result.

  1. Disconnect the flexible brake hose from the caliper.
  2.  
  3. For the overhaul, mount the caliper in a bench-mounted vise.
  4.  

  1. If the caliper is simply going to be replaced with a new one, disconnect the flexible brake hose from the caliper. Immediately plug the brake hose, to stop any brake fluid leakage and keep the fluid from becoming contaminated.
  2.  

To install:
  1. Thoroughly clean and lubricate both steering knuckle/brake pad contacting surfaces with a liberal amount of Mopar® Multi-purpose lubricant or equivalent.
  2.  
  3. Lubricate both bushing channels with silicone grease.
  4.  
  5. If necessary, use a large C-clamp to slowly press the caliper piston back into the caliper (until fully seated).
  6.  
  7. The inboard brake shoes are common. The outboard brake shoes are marked with either LH (left hand side) or RH (right hand side) to denote which side of the vehicle to be installed on.
  8.  
  9. Remove the protective backing from the noise suppression gasket on the inboard pad assembly.
  10.  
  11. Install the new inboard pad in the caliper, centering the retainer in the piston bore.
  12.  
  13. Remove the protective backing from the noise suppression gasket on the outboard pad and position the pad on the brake caliper.
  14.  
  15. Carefully lower the caliper over the rotor and guide hold-down spring under the machined abutment on the knuckle assembly.
  16.  
  17. Install the guide pins and torque to 18-261 inch lbs. (24-34 Nm).
  18.  

It is easy to crossthread the guide pins. Start them carefully, turning them gently by hand and allowing them to find their own angle.

  1. Install the flexible brake hose to the caliper. Make sure to use new seal washers. Tighten the banjo fitting to 24 ft. lbs. (33 Nm).
  2.  
  3. If necessary, connect the flexible brake hoses to the brake tubing at the frame bracket.
  4.  
  5. Install the wheels. For more details refer to Suspension & Steering .
  6.  
  7. Lower the vehicle.
  8.  
  9. Bleed the system thoroughly, as described earlier in this section. Pump the brake pedal several times to ensure that the brake pads seat against the rotor. The pedal must give resistance at the normal position before attempting to drive the car. Drive the car at moderate speeds in an isolated area in order to apply the brakes several times to test the system and seat the new linings.
  10.  

Single and Double Pin Family Caliper

See Figures 11, 12, 13, 14, 15, 16, 17, 18, 19 and 20

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Fig. Fig. 11: Make certain to identify the brake pads before installing them on the vehicle



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Fig. Fig. 12: After removing the wheels, loosen the caliper slide pin bolts ...



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Fig. Fig. 13: ... then remove the bolts from the caliper



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Fig. Fig. 14: Pry the caliper loose from the brake rotor, then ...



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Fig. Fig. 15: ... carefully lift the caliper off of the brake rotor



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Fig. Fig. 16: Remove the outboard brake pad from the brake adapter and ...



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Fig. Fig. 17: ... slide the brake rotor off of the axle hub



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Fig. Fig. 18: The brake rotor must be removed before the inboard pad can be removed from the adapter



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Fig. Fig. 19: Remove the inboard brake pad from the brake adapter, along with the retaining spring



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Fig. Fig. 20: Before installing the new pads, push the piston back into the caliper with a large C-clamp


WARNING
On vehicles equipped with a Bendix Type 6 Anti-lock Brake System (ABS), a Diagnostic Readout Box (DRB or DRB II) is necessary for brake system bleeding. Failure to use a DRB to bleed the system will lead to system failure. Refer to the ABS portion of this section for bleeding procedures and precautions.

The Kelsey-Hayes single pin family front brake caliper was available on some 1981-87 vehicles, including all Premier, whereas the double pin Kelsey-Hayes caliper was available on 1988-95 models. The exact models equipped with these calipers is not known. These calipers are characterized by the use of an adapter, to which the caliper is mounted. The Kelsey-Hayes calipers, therefore, mount to adapters with 2 through-bolts, which is mounted to the steering knuckle. The 1981-87 single pin caliper is characterized by the single pin; all other calipers used at that time utilize a dual pin design.

  1. Raise and support the front end on jackstands.
  2.  
  3. Remove the front wheels.
  4.  
  5. Remove the caliper guide pin bolt(s). To do this, unscrew it until it is free from the threads and then pull them out of the caliper adapter.
  6.  
  7. Using a small prybar, gently wedge the caliper away from the rotor, breaking the adhesive seals.
  8.  
  9. Slowly slide the caliper away from the rotor and off the caliper adapter. Support the caliper securely by hanging it from the body with wire (this is necessary to keep its weight from damaging the brake hose).
  10.  
  11. Slide the outboard pad off the caliper adapter. Then remove the disc by simply sliding it off the wheel studs.
  12.  
  13. Remove the inboard pad by sliding it off the caliper adapter.
  14.  

Support the caliper with strong wire or cord from the vehicle frame to prevent the weight of the caliper from damaging the flexible hose.

  1. If the caliper is to be overhauled, perform the following:
    1. Place a small piece of wood between the piston and caliper fingers.
    2.  
    3. Carefully depress the brake pedal to hydraulically push the piston out of the bore. The brake pedal will fall away when the piston has passed the bore opening. Then prop the brake pedal to any position below the first inch (25mm) of pedal travel: this will prevent the loss of brake fluid from the master cylinder.
    4.  
    5. If both front calipers are to be removed, disconnect the flexible brake line at the frame bracket after removing the piston. Plug the brake tube and remove the piston from the opposite caliper, using the same process as above for the first piston removal.
    6.  

  2.  


CAUTION
Under no condition should air pressure be used to remove the piston from the caliper bore. Personal injury could result.

  1. Disconnect the flexible brake hose from the caliper.
  2.  
  3. For the overhaul, mount the caliper in a bench-mounted vise.
  4.  

  1. If the caliper is simply going to be replaced with a new one, disconnect the flexible brake hose from the caliper. Immediately plug the brake hose, to stop any brake fluid leakage and keep the fluid from becoming contaminated.
  2.  

To install:
  1. Lubricate both bushing channels with silicone grease.
  2.  
  3. Using a large C-clamp, slowly press the caliper piston back into the caliper (until fully seated).
  4.  
  5. Remove the protective paper backing from the anti-squeal surfaces on both pads. Install the inboard pad on the adapter. Be careful to keep grease from the bushing channels from getting onto the pad as you do this.
  6.  
  7. Install the rotor onto the wheel studs of the steering knuckle. Install the outboard pad in the caliper.
  8.  
  9. Remove the caliper from the hanger. Lower the caliper into position over the rotor and pads. Install the guide pin bolt(s) and torque them to 361 inch lbs. (48 Nm).
  10.  

It is easy to crossthread the guide pin. Start it carefully, turning it by hand gently and allowing it to find its own angle.

  1. Install the flexible brake hose to the caliper. Make sure to use new seal washers. Tighten the banjo fitting to 24 ft. lbs. (33 Nm).
  2.  
  3. If necessary, connect the flexible brake hoses to the brake tubing at the frame bracket.
  4.  
  5. Install the wheels.
  6.  
  7. Lower the vehicle.
  8.  
  9. Pump the brake pedal several times to ensure that the brake pads seat against the rotor. The pedal must give resistance at the normal position before attempting to drive the car. Drive the car at moderate speeds in an isolated area in order to apply the brakes several times to test the system and seat the new linings.
  10.  

OVERHAUL



See Figures 21, 22, 23, 24, 25 and 26

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Fig. Fig. 21: Exploded view of the Kelsey-Hayes Double Pin Family caliper



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Fig. Fig. 22: Exploded view of the Kelsey-Hayes Double Pin Non-Family caliper



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Fig. Fig. 23: Remove the protruding piston from the brake caliper ...



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Fig. Fig. 24: ... then gently pry the piston boot loose from the caliper



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Fig. Fig. 25: Remove the boot, then ...



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Fig. Fig. 26: ... remove the piston seal from the groove in the caliper bore

Use this service procedure as a guide for overhaul of the caliper assembly for all years/models. If in doubt about overhaul condition or service procedure REPLACE the complete assembly.

  1. Remove the caliper as previously outlined, leaving the brake line connected.
  2.  
  3. Carefully have a helper depress the brake pedal to hydraulically push the piston out of the bore. When the piston has passed out of the bore, fluid and pedal pressure will drop. As soon as pedal pressure drops, hold the pedal in position with the foot and then devise a means to keep it there during work-this will minimize fluid loss and difficulty bleeding the system later.
  4.  


CAUTION
Under no condition should air pressure be used to remove the piston. Personal injury could result from this practice.

  1. Disconnect the flexible brake line at the frame bracket and immediately plug the open end of the line. If the piston from the caliper on the opposite side of the car must now be removed, it can be removed in the same way. When the piston has been removed, disconnect and plug the other flexible line.
  2.  
  3. Place the caliper in a vise which has soft jaws, clamping it as lightly as possible.
  4.  

Excessive vise pressure will cause bore distortion and piston binding.

  1. Remove the dust boot and discard it.
  2.  
  3. Use a plastic rod to work the piston seal out of its groove in the piston bore. Discard the old seal.
  4.  

Do not use a metal tool for this procedure, because of the possibility of scratching the piston bore or damaging the edges of the seal.

  1. Remove the bushings from the caliper by pressing them out, using a suitable tool. Discard the old bushings. If a Teflon® sleeve is used, discard this also.
  2.  
  3. Clean all parts using alcohol and blow dry with compressed air.
  4.  

Whenever a caliper has been disassembled, a new boot and seal must be installed.

  1. Inspect the piston bore for scoring or pitting. Bores with light scratches can be cleaned up. If the bore is scratched beyond repair, the caliper should be replaced.
  2.  
  3. Dip the new piston seal in clean brake fluid and install it in the bore groove.
  4.  

Never use an old piston seal.

  1. Coat the new piston with clean brake fluid, leaving a generous amount inside the boot.
  2.  
  3. Position the dust boot over the piston.
  4.  
  5. Install the piston into the bore, pushing it past the piston seal until it bottoms in the bore.
  6.  

Force must be applied uniformly to avoid cocking the piston.

  1. Position the dust boot in the counterbore.
  2.  
  3. Using tools C-4689 and C-4171 or their equivalents install the dust boot.
  4.  
  5. Remove the Teflon® sleeves from the guide pin bushings before installing the bushings into the caliper. After the new bushings are installed in the caliper, reinstall the Teflon® sleeves into the bushings.
  6.  
  7. Be sure the flanges extend over the caliper casting evenly on both sides.
  8.  
  9. When reinstalling the calipers use new seal washers and torque the brake hose connections to the specified torque. Follow the installation procedure above.
  10.  
  11. Bleed the brake system. Pump the brake pedal several times to ensure that the brake pads seat against the rotor. The pedal must give resistance at the normal position before attempting to drive the car. Drive the car at moderate speeds in an isolated area in order to apply the brakes several times to test the system.
  12.  

 
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