Chrysler Full-Size Trucks 1967-1988 Repair Guide

Transmission

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REMOVAL & INSTALLATION



It will be necessary to remove the transmission and converter as an assembly; otherwise the converter driveplate pump bushing and oil seal will be damaged. The driveplate will not support a load. Therefore, none of the weight of transmission should be allowed to rest on the plate during removal.

  1. Disconnect the battery ground cable.
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  3. Some models will need for the exhaust system to be dropped for clearance reasons.
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  5. Remove the engine-to-transmission struts, if so equipped.
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  7. Disconnect and remove the cooler lines at the transmission.
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  9. Next, remove the starter and cooler line bracket.
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  11. Remove the torque converter access cover. On early models equipped with a drain plug on the converter, this will aid in draining the system.
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A running production change was made in January, 1977 which eliminated the converter drain plug. This means that the transmission must be removed in order to drain the converter on models manufactured after this date.

  1. Loosen the oil pan bolts, then tap the pan to loosen, allowing the fluid to drain.
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  3. Reinstall the oil pan on the vehicles.
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  5. Matchmark the torque converter and driveplate.
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The crankshaft flange bolt circle, inner and outer circle of holes in the driveplate, and the usually four tapped holes in the front face of the converter, all have offset. These parts will have to be installed in the original positions. This will maintain the balance of the engine and converter.

  1. Rotate engine clockwise with a socket wrench on the vibration dampener bolt, then position the bolts that attach the torque converter to the driveplate, remove the bolts.
  2.  
  3. Matchmark the parts for reassembly, then disconnect the propeller shaft at the rear of the universal joint. Carefully pull the shaft assembly out of the extension housing.
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  5. Disconnect the wire connections to the backup light switch/neutral safety switch, along with the lock-up solenoid connector (if equipped).
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  7. Disassemble the gear shiftrod and torque shaft assembly from the transmission.
  8.  

When it is necessary to disconnect the linkage rods from the levers that use plastic grommets and retainers, the grommets should be replaced with new ones. A prytool will be needed to remove the grommet from the lever, then cut away the old grommet. Use pliers to snap the new grommet into the lever and rod into grommet.

  1. Disconnect the throttle rod from left side of transmission. Remove the linkage at the bellcrank from the transmission, if equipped.
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  3. Disconnect the speedometer cable, then remove the oil filler tube.
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  5. Install engine support fixture to hold up the rear of the engine.
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  7. Raise transmission slightly with jack to relieve load and remove support bracket or crossmember. Remove all bolts that secure the transmission mount-to-crossmember and crossmember-to-frame, then remove the crossmember.
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  9. Remove all the bellhousing bolts. Carefully work the transmission and torque converter assembly rearwards off the engine block dowels and disengage the converter hub from the end of the crankshaft.
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Attach a small C-clamp to edge of bell housing to hold converter in place during transmission removal; otherwise the front pump bushing might be damaged.

  1. Lower the transmission and remove from under the vehicle. To remove the torque converter, remove the C-clamp from the edge of the bell housing, then carefully slide the assembly out of the transmission.
  2.  

To install:

Install transmission and converter must be installed as an assembly. If this is not done the driveplate, pump bushing, and oil seal will be damaged. Do not allow weight of transmission to rest on the plate during installation.

  1. Rotate pump rotors until the rotor lugs are vertical.
  2.  
  3. Carefully slide converter assembly over input shaft and reaction shaft. Make sure converter impeller hub slots are also vertical, fully engage front pump inner rotor lugs. Test for engagement by placing a straight edge on the face of the case. The surface of the converter front cover lug should be at least 1 / 2 in. (13mm) to the rear of the straight edge when the converter is pushed all the way into the transmission.
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  5. Use a C-clamp on edge of converter housing to hold converter in place during transmission installation.
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  7. Converter driveplate should be free of distortion and driveplate to crankshaft bolts tightened to 55 ft. lbs. (74 Nm). Make sure both dowel pins are in the engine block and they are protruding far enough to hold the transmission in alignment.
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  9. Make sure to coat the converter hub hole in the crankshaft with multipurpose grease. Using a jack, position transmission and converter assembly in alignment with engine. You may need to raise or tilt the transmission until the engine and transmission is aligned.
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  11. Rotate converter so mark on converter (made during removal) will align with the mark on the driveplate. The offset holes in plate are located next to the 1 / 8 in. (3mm) hole in inner circle of the plate. A stamped V mark identifies the offset hole in converter front cover. Carefully work transmission assembly forward over engine block dowels with converter hub entering the crankshaft opening.
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  13. After the transmission is in position, then install the converter housing-to-engine bolts and tighten to 30 ft. lbs. (41 Nm).
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  15. Install the crossmember-to-frame and lower the transmission to install the mount on the extension to the crossmember, then tighten all bolts.
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  17. Remove the engine support fixture. Install the oil filler tube and speedometer cable.
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  19. Connect the throttle rod to transmission lever, gearshift rod and torque shaft assembly to the transmission lever and frame.
  20.  

When it is necessary to disconnect the linkage rods from the levers that use plastic grommets and retainers, the grommets should be replaced with new ones. A prytool will be needed to remove the grommet from the lever, then cut away the old grommet. Use pliers to snap the new grommet into the lever and rod into grommet.

  1. Place the wire connections on the backup light/neutral safety switch, along with connections to the lockup solenoid at the rear of the transmission case, if equipped.
  2.  
  3. Rotate the engine clockwise with a socket wrench on the vibration dampener bolt, as needed, so to install the torque converter drive plate bolts. Matchmark made earlier will help, then tighten to 270 inch lbs. (31 Nm).
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  5. Install the torque converter access cover. Install the starter and cooler line bracket.
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  7. Connect the cooler lines to the transmission fittings.
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  9. Install engine to transmission struts, if required. Install the transfer case if equipped.
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  11. Replace the exhaust system if it was disconnected previously.
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  13. Guide the sliding yoke into the extension housing and on the output shaft splines carefully. Align the marks made earlier, then connect the propeller shaft(s) to the axle pinion shaft yoke(s).
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  15. Adjust the throttle and gearshift linkage.
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  17. Refill the transmission on level ground with the correct amount and type of fluid used on your truck.
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