REMOVAL & INSTALLATION
- Disconnect the battery negative cable(s).
- Remove air cleaner housing and duct work if needed for access to the valve cover(s).
- Disconnect the crankcase ventilation hose from the cover, if fitted.
- Remove the PCV valve from the valve cover, if equipped.
- Remove any breathers, and any vacuum or emission system hoses, fitted to the cover(s).
- On 4.7L engines, disconnect the injector connectors and unclip the injector harness.
- Check the engine wiring relative to the valve cover(s). On some models, wiring is run along the edge of the cover(s) and secured by clips on the valve cover studs. Remove any wiring attached to the valve cover studs.
- On diesels, remove the air crossover tube.
- On V-10 engines, the upper intake manifold must be removed to remove the right side valve cover.
- Remove the valve cover bolts and/or studs. Note locations to ease installation.
- Tap the valve cover with a plastic mallet to break it loose, then carefully lift the cover off.
Do NOT attempt to pry the cover off. Damage to cover or gasket may result.
- Clean the mating surfaces.
- Check covers for warpage.
- Most models are equipped with reusable gaskets, normally steel-backed silicone. Replace compressed or damaged gaskets, or fill in gaps with a quality silicone sealant.
- On the V-10, for the left side, the number tab is at the front of the engine with the number up. For the right side, the number tab is at the rear of the engine with the number up. Cylinder head cover fasteners have special plating. Do NOT use substitutes. Tighten to 12 ft. lbs. (16 Nm).
- On the 24-valve diesel, locate the gasket with "TOP FRONT" in the proper orientation. Torque bolts to 18 ft. lbs. (24 Nm).
- On 2.5L engines, tighten cover to 113 inch lbs. (13 Nm).
- On 3.9L, 5.2L, and 5.7L gasoline engines, tighten fasteners to 95 inch lbs. (95 Nm).
- On 4.7L engines, tighten fasteners to 105 inch lbs. (12 Nm).
- Tighten cover bolts and studs evenly and in a cross pattern.
- Check for leaks after several minutes of operation.