REMOVAL & INSTALLATION
See Figures 1 through 10
Refer to Wheels for detailed procedures regarding removal and installation of the hub assembly. Four wheel drive vehicles must have the front hubs in the free position before disassembly.
- Raise the vehicle and support it safely on stands.
- Remove the wheel.
- Remove the caliper and brake pads. It may be necessary to disconnect the small brake line running to the caliper. If this is done, plug the open line immediately. Suspend the caliper out of the way.
- Remove the caliper adaptor or mount.
- If the vehicle is equipped with 4 wheel drive, remove the automatic hub, the shim, lock washer and locknut.
- If the vehicle is 2-wheel drive, remove the dust cap, cotter pin, nut lock, nut, washer and outer bearing.
- Remove the front hub and rotor assembly. Provide matchmarks on the rotor and hub; unbolt the rotor from the hub.
- Install the rotor to the hub and tighten the attaching nuts and bolts to 38 ft. lbs. (52 Nm).
- Install the assembly and retaining parts to the spindle-refer to Sections 7 and 8.
- Install the caliper and brake assembly-refer to the preceding procedures in this section.
- Reconnect the brake line if it was disconnected and bleed the brakes.
- Install the wheel and lower the vehicle to the ground.
Mopar does not provide resurfacing specifications. Any disc which is gouged, scored, worn or warped should be replaced.
Run-out See Figure 11
Before measuring the run-out on the front discs, confirm that the front wheel bearing play is within specification.
- Raise and safely support the vehicle on jackstands. If only the front is supported, set the parking brake and block the rear wheels.
- Remove the wheel.
- Remove the brake caliper from its mount and suspend it out of the way by a piece of wire. Don't disconnect the fluid hose and don't allow the caliper to hang by the hose. Remove the brake pads with all the clips, springs, shims, etc.
- Inspect the disc surface for grooves, cracks and rust. Clean the disc thoroughly and remove all rust.
- Mount a dial indicator with a magnetic or universal base somewhere on the vehicle so that the tip of the indicator contacts the rotor about 0.20 in. (5mm) from the outer edge.
- Zero the dial indicator. Turn the rotor one full revolution and observe the total indicated run-out. Refer to the Brake Specifications chart in this section for the specifications for your vehicle.
- If the run-out exceeds the maximum allowed, the rotor needs replacing.
Thickness See Figure 12
The thickness of the rotor or disc partially determines its ability to withstand heat and provide adequate stopping force. Every rotor has a minimum thickness established by the manufacturer. This minimum measurement must NOT be exceeded under any condition. A rotor which is too thin may crack under braking; if this occurs the wheel can lock instantly, resulting in loss of control and a possible collision.
If any part of the rotor measures below minimum, the disc must be replaced. Since the allowable wear from brand new to minimum is only 0.04-0.06 in. (1.0-1.5mm), resurfacing is not recommended.
Thickness and thickness variation can be measured with a micrometer capable of reading to 0.00010 in. (0.0025mm). All measurements must be made at the same distance in from the edge of the rotor. Measure at four equally spaced points around the disc and record each measurement. Compare the measurements to the minimum specifications in the chart. A rotor varying by more than 0.0010 in. (0.025mm) can cause pedal vibration and/or front end vibration during stops. A rotor not meeting thickness requirements, or with varying thicknesses, must be replaced.
A new rotor will have a smooth, even surface which rapidly changes with use. It is not uncommon for a rotor to develop very fine concentric scores (like the grooves on a record) due to dust and grit being trapped by the brake pads. This slight irregularity is normal, but as the grooves deepen, wear and noise increase and stopping may be affected. As a general rule, any groove deep enough to snag a fingernail during inspection is cause for rotor replacement.
Any sign of blue spots, discoloration, heavy rusting or outright gouging require replacement. If you are checking the disc on the truck (such as during pad replacement or tire rotation) remember to turn the disc and check both the inner and outer faces completely. A small mirror and a bright light can be very helpful in seeing the inner face of the rotor. If anything looks questionable or requires consideration, choose the safer alternative and replace the rotor. The front brakes are a critical system and must be maintained at 100% efficiency.
Any time a rotor is replaced, the pads should also be replaced so that the surfaces mate properly. Since brake pads should be replaced in sets (both front or rear wheels), consider replacing both rotors instead of just one. The restored feel and accurate stopping make the extra investment well worthwhile.