REMOVAL & INSTALLATION CRV Models
The radio may have a coded theft protection circuit. Make sure you have the code before disconnecting the battery, removing the radio fuse, or removing the radio.
When removing the transaxle to replace the clutch disk, always replace the clutch disk, release bearing, pilot bearing and pressure plate. Often times these components are sold more economically as a clutch kit.
If the flywheel is damaged or excessively worn, check to see if the flywheel is sold with the clutch replacement parts as a kit. Usually it is more cost effective to buy a complete kit than to purchase the parts individually.
If a flywheel with surface irregularities is reused, it is very likely that when driving, the clutch will chatter as it is engaged.
Try to avoid the use of rebuilt parts, as at times, the expense saved on parts may be far less justified than the labor cost (or time) to do the job a second time.
- Before servicing the vehicle, refer to the precautions in the beginning of this section.
- Disconnect the negative battery cable.
- Remove the manual transaxle assembly from the vehicle.
- Install a suitable flywheel holder tool to aid in the removal of the pressure plate and flywheel (if being removed).
- Install a suitable clutch alignment tool through the clutch disk splines and into the pilot bearing.
- Matchmark the pressure plate and flywheel for easy reassembly. Remove the pressure plate bolts in a criss-cross pattern, 2 turns at a time to prevent warpage.
- Remove the pressure plate, then the clutch disc with the alignment shaft.
- Inspect the flywheel for surface irregularities or the presence of oil which may be leaking from the rear main oil seal or transmission input shaft seal. If the flywheel has surface irregularities, cracks, hot spots, or shows signs of bluing (overheated), replace the flywheel. If the rear main oil seal is leaking, remove the flywheel and replace the oil seal. If removing the flywheel, loosen the bolts in a crisscross pattern.
See Figures 1 through 16
If the rear crankshaft oil seal was removed, install the seal as follows:
- Carefully chamfer the edges of the seal housing with a suitable sharp pocket knife or chamfering tool.
- Thoroughly clean the housing-to-seal mating surface with rubbing alcohol or a suitable brake cleaner and allow to dry.
- Make sure the seal is dry and clean. DO NOT use sealant on the seal. Install the seal using a suitable seal driver until it is flush with the seal housing.
- Once installed, lubricate the seal lips with a thin coating of light petroleum grease.
If the flywheel was removed, perform the following:
- Inspect the mounting bolts. Replace them if they show signs of stretching, distortion or if the flywheel showed signs of severe overheating.
- Make sure the flywheel is clean. If necessary, clean the flywheel using rubbing alcohol or a suitable brake cleaner. Allow the flywheel to dry, then apply a thin coating of light petroleum grease to the portion of the flywheel that contacts the engine oil seal.
- Align the hole in the flywheel with the crankshaft dowel pin and install the mounting bolts finger-tight.
- Install a suitable flywheel holder, and tighten the flywheel mounting bolts in several steps using a criss-cross pattern as illustrated. The mounting bolt final torque should be 76 ft. lbs. (103 Nm).
- If the clutch pilot bearing was removed or the flywheel replaced, install the clutch pilot bearing.
- Install a clutch pilot tool through the clutch disk splines and into the clutch pilot bearing to hold the clutch disk in place.
- Inspect the clutch pressure plate bolts for damage. Replace the bolts as necessary. Install the pressure plate, tightening the mounting bolts to 19 ft. lbs. (25 Nm), in the proper sequence as illustrated.
- Remove the flywheel holding tool and the clutch alignment tool.
Apply a suitable super high temperature grease to the following components:
Transaxle input shaft
- Install the transaxle assembly.
- Connect the negative battery cable and enter the radio security code.
ADJUSTMENTS Clutch Pedal Free-Play
The hydraulic clutch is self-adjusting to compensate for wear.
- Loosen the locknut at the base of the clutch switch (for the cruise control, if equipped), or for the adjusting bolt that contacts the clutch pedal when the pedal is fully released. Back off the switch or adjustment bolt until it no longer contacts the clutch pedal.
- Loosen the locknut at the rear of the push rod for the clutch master cylinder.
Turn the clutch master cylinder push rod in or out until:
The clutch pedal height from the floor is 7 3 / 16 inches (183mm).
- Tighten the push rod locknut.
- Thread in the clutch switch or adjusting bolt until it contacts the clutch pedal, then thread the component an additional 3 / 4 -1 turn, and tighten the locknut.
See Figure 17
- Loosen the locknut on the clutch interlock switch.
- Measure the clearance between the clutch pedal and the floor board with the clutch pedal fully depressed.
- Allow the clutch pedal to rise from the floor until it is 9 / 16 - 3 / 4 inches (15-20mm) above the full bottom measurement.
- Adjust the interlock switch so that the engine will start from this position.
- Turn the interlock switch in an additional 3 / 4 -1 turn, and tighten the locknut.
- Tighten the locknut to secure the clutch interlock switch in this position.