Continental 2000-2002

Fuel Rail (Supply Manifold) & Injectors

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Removal & Installation



3.8L Engine
  1. Disconnect the negative battery cable.
  2.  
  3. Remove the fuel cap at the tank to release the fuel tank pressure.
  4.  
  5. Properly relieve the pressure from the fuel system. For details, please refer to the procedure located earlier in this section.
  6.  
  7. Remove the upper intake manifold and the fuel supply manifold as follows:
    1. Disengage the electrical connectors at the air bypass valve, TP sensor, and EGR position sensor.
    2.  
    3. Disconnect the throttle linkage at the throttle ball and the transmission linkage from the throttle body. Remove the 2 bolts securing the bracket to the intake manifold and position the bracket with the cables aside.
    4.  
    5. Disconnect the upper intake manifold vacuum fitting connections by disconnecting all vacuum lines to the vacuum tree, EGR valve and pressure regulator.
    6.  
    7. Disconnect the PCV hose and remove the nut retaining the EGR transducer to the upper intake manifold.
    8.  
    9. Loosen the EGR tube at the exhaust manifold, then disconnect at the EGR valve.
    10.  
    11. Remove 2 bolts retaining the EGR valve to the upper intake manifold, then remove the EGR valve and EGR transducer as an assembly.
    12.  
    13. Remove the 2 canister purge lines from the fittings on the throttle body, then remove the 6 upper intake manifold retaining bolts.
    14.  
    15. Remove 2 retaining bolts on the front and rear edges of the upper intake manifold where the manifold support brackets are located.
    16.  
    17. Remove the nut retaining the alternator bracket to the upper intake manifold and the 2 bolts retaining the alternator bracket to the water pump and alternator.
    18.  
    19. Remove the upper intake manifold and throttle body as an assembly.
    20.  
    21. Disconnect the fuel supply and return lines from the fuel rail assembly.
    22.  
    23. Remove the fuel rail assembly retaining bolts, carefully disengage the fuel rail from the fuel injectors, and then remove the fuel rail.
    24.  

  8.  
  9. Remove the injector retaining clips.
  10.  
  11. Remove the electrical connectors from the fuel injectors.
  12.  
  13. To remove the injector, pull it up while gently rocking it from side-to-side.
  14.  
  15. Inspect the injector O-rings, pintle protection cap (plastic hat) and washer for deterioration and replace, as required.
  16.  



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Fig. Fuel injection supply manifold and related components-3.8L SEFI engine

To install:

  1. Lubricate new engine O-rings with engine oil and install 2 on each injector.
  2.  
  3. Install the injectors, using a light, twisting, pushing motion to install them.
  4.  
  5. Reconnect the injector retaining clips.
  6.  
  7. Install the fuel rail assembly.
  8.  
  9. Install the electrical harness connectors to the injectors.
  10.  
  11. Install the upper intake manifold by reversing the removal procedure.
  12.  
  13. Install the fuel cap at the tank.
  14.  
  15. Connect the negative battery cable.
  16.  
  17. Turn the ignition switch from ON to OFF position several times without starting the engine to check for fuel leaks.
  18.  

4.6L Engine


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Fig. Detach the electrical connectors from the injectors



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Fig. Remove the fuel rail assembly retaining bolts. There are two on each side of the engine



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Fig. Lift the rail from the intake manifold and . . .



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Fig. . . . remove the injectors by gently puling them out of the rail



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Fig. Replace the injector O-rings before installing the injectors back into the engine



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Fig. Remove the O-rings from the injectors using a small pick or other suitable tool

  1. Disconnect the negative battery cable.
  2.  
  3. Remove the fuel tank cap and relieve the fuel system pressure, as explained in this Section.
  4.  
  5. Disconnect the vacuum line at the pressure regulator.
  6.  
  7. Disconnect the fuel lines from the fuel rail.
  8.  
  9. Detach the electrical connectors from the injectors.
  10.  
  11. Remove the fuel rail assembly retaining bolts.
  12.  
  13. Carefully disengage the fuel rail from the fuel injectors and remove the fuel rail.
  14.  


NOTE
It may be easier to remove the injectors with the fuel rail as an assembly.

  1. Grasping the injector body, pull while gently rocking the injector from side-to-side to remove the injector from the fuel rail or intake manifold.
  2.  
  3. Inspect the pintle protection cap and washer for signs of deterioration. Replace the complete injector, as required. If the cap is missing, look for it in the intake manifold.
  4.  


NOTE
The pintle protection cap is not available as a separate part.

To install:

  1. Lubricate new O-rings with light grade oil and install 2 on each injector.
  2.  


NOTE
Never use silicone grease as it will clog the injectors.

  1. Install the injectors using a light, twisting, pushing motion.
  2.  
  3. Install the fuel rail, pushing it down to ensure all injector O-rings are fully seated in the fuel rail cups and intake manifold.
  4.  
  5. Install the retaining bolts while holding the fuel rail down and tighten to 71-106 inch lbs. (8-12 Nm).
  6.  
  7. Connect the fuel lines to the fuel rail and the vacuum line to the pressure regulator.
  8.  
  9. With the injector wiring disconnected, connect the negative battery cable and turn the ignition switch to the RUN position to allow the fuel pump to pressurize the system.
  10.  
  11. Check for fuel leaks.
  12.  
  13. Disconnect the negative battery cable.
  14.  
  15. Connect the electrical connectors to the fuel injectors.
  16.  
  17. Connect the negative battery cable and start the engine. Let it idle for 2 minutes.
  18.  
  19. Turn the engine OFF and check for leaks.
  20.  

Testing



The easiest way to test the operation of the fuel injectors is to listen for a clicking sound coming from the injectors while the engine is running. This is accomplished using a mechanic's stethoscope, or a long screwdriver. Place the end of the stethoscope or the screwdriver (tip end, not handle) onto the body of the injector. Place the ear pieces of the stethoscope in your ears, or if using a screwdriver, place your ear on top of the handle. An audible clicking noise should be heard; this is the solenoid operating. If the injector makes this noise, the injector driver circuit and computer are operating as designed. Continue testing all the injectors this way.


CAUTION
Be extremely careful while working on an operating engine, make sure you have no dangling jewelry, loose clothing, power tool cords or other items that might get caught in a moving part of the engine.

All Injectors Clicking

If all the injectors are clicking, but you have determined that the fuel system is the cause of your driveability problem, continue diagnostics. Make sure that you have checked fuel pump pressure as outlined earlier in this section. An easy way to determine a weak or unproductive cylinder is a cylinder drop test. This is accomplished by removing one spark plug wire at a time, and seeing which cylinder causes the least difference in the idle. The one that causes the least change is the weak cylinder.

If the injectors were all clicking and the ignition system is functioning properly, remove the injector of the suspect cylinder and bench test it. This is accomplished by checking for a spray pattern from the injector itself. Install a fuel supply line to the injector (or rail if the injector is left attached to the rail) and momentarily apply 12 volts DC and a ground to the injector itself; a visible fuel spray should appear. If no spray is achieved, replace the injector and check the running condition of the engine.

One Or More Injectors Are Not Clicking


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Fig. Unplug the fuel injector connector



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Fig. Probe the two terminals of a fuel injector to check it's resistance



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Fig. Plug the correct "noid" light directly into the injector harness connector



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Fig. If the correct "noid" light flashes while the engine is running, the injector driver circuit inside the PCM is working

If one or more injectors are found to be not operating, testing the injector driver circuit and computer can be accomplished using a "noid" light. First, with the engine not running and the ignition key in the OFF position, remove the connector from the injector you plan to test, then plug the "noid" light tool into the injector connector. Start the engine and the "noid" light should flash, signaling that the injector driver circuit is working. If the "noid" light flashes, but the injector does not click when plugged in, test the injector's resistance. resistance should be between 11-18 ohms.

If the "noid" light does not flash, the injector driver circuit is faulty. Disconnect the negative battery cable. Unplug the "noid" light from the injector connector and also unplug the PCM. Check the harness between the appropriate pins on the harness side of the PCM connector and the injector connector. Resistance should be less than 5.0 ohms; if not, repair the circuit. If resistance is within specifications, the injector driver inside the PCM is faulty and replacement of the PCM will be necessary.

 
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