Fig. Fig. 1 Exploded view of the clutch pedal linkage. Adjustment is made with the nut on the fork rod
Fig. Fig. 2 Loosen and remove the clutch and pressure plate bolts evenly, a little at a time ...
Fig. Fig. 3 ... then carefully remove the clutch and pressure plate assembly from the flywheel
Fig. Fig. 4 Check across the flywheel surface, it should be flat
Fig. Fig. 5 If necessary, lock the flywheel in place and remove the retaining bolts ...
Fig. Fig. 6 ... then remove the flywheel from the crankshaft in order replace it or have it machined
Fig. Fig. 7 Upon installation, it is usually a good idea to apply a thread-locking compound to the flywheel bolts
Fig. Fig. 8 Check the pressure plate for excessive wear
Fig. Fig. 9 Be sure that the flywheel surface is clean, before installing the clutch
Fig. Fig. 10 Typical clutch alignment tool, note how the splines match the transmission's input shaft
Fig. Fig. 11 Install a clutch alignment arbor, to align the clutch assembly during installation
Fig. Fig. 12 Clutch plate installed with the arbor in place
Fig. Fig. 13 You may want to use a thread locking compound on the clutch assembly bolts
Fig. Fig. 14 Install the clutch assembly bolts and tighten in steps, using an X pattern
Fig. Fig. 15 Be sure to use a torque wrench to tighten all bolts
Check that the rubber pedal stop is in good shape.
Under the car, turn the self-locking adjustment nut on the release fork operating rod to get about
in. free movement at the end of the fork. If the nut won't turn readily, the swivel is probably binding in the release fork. Tap it to free it.
Check the adjustment by making sure that you have 1 in. of free-play at the pedal. The easiest way to measure this is to hold a yardstick alongside the clutch pedal and press the pedal down until you can feel resistance.