A visual inspection of the brake pads, calipers, and brake lines is recommended every several thousand miles.
- Jack up the front of the car and support it on stands. Remove the front wheels.
- Check the rubber brake lines to the calipers for breaks or cracks. Check the metal brake lines for rust or damage from rocks or other road debris.
- Examine the surfaces of the disc for deep scoring or grooves.
- Inspect the brake pads. The outside pads are normally thinner than the inside pads. Replace the brake pads if they are worn to within 1 / 32 in. of the disc.
- Check the caliper for signs of brake fluid leakage. The caliper will have to be removed and rebuilt or replaced if any leakage is evident.
REMOVAL & INSTALLATION
Brake pads should always be replaced in full axle sets, that is they should be renewed on both sides at the same time. Original equipment replacement sets contain four brake pads, new retainer clips, and O-rings. Always reinstall the anti-rattle springs under the retaining clip bolts, they prevent annoying brake squeaks and rattles.
- Jack up the front of the car and support it with stands under the front crossmember. Remove the front wheels.
- Remove the caliper retaining clips and anti-rattle springs.
- Slowly remove the caliper from the disc by sliding it out and away. It's not necessary to disconnect the brake line from the caliper.
- Support the caliper, so as not to put a strain on the flexible brake line.
- Remove the outside pad by using a screwdriver to pry between the pad and the caliper. Don't gouge the disc.
- Remove the inside pad.
- Wire the caliper to the front suspension for support. Don't let it hang by the brake line.
- Check for piston boot damage and fluid leaks. Any damage will require disassembly of the caliper.
- Check the sliding surfaces on the caliper and the adaptor. If they are rusty, remove the rubber O-ring and carefully wire brush the corrosion.
- Install new O-rings on the caliper adaptor.
- Remove about half of the fluid from the front chamber of the master cylinder. This will prevent an overflow when the new, thicker pads are installed.
- Carefully push the piston back into the caliper bore. A large pair of sliding pliers are handy for this job. Be careful not to damage the rubber piston boot.
- Slide the new outboard pad into the caliper recess.
There should be no free-play between the brake pad flanges and the caliper. This can cause brake pad rattling. Should free-play exist as shown by vertical pad movement after installation, remove the pad from the caliper and tap the flanges down to make a slight interference fit.
- Install the outboard pad by snapping it into place with your hand. If it is necessary to use a C-clamp to install the pad, use the old pads to protect the new pad from damage.
- Install new O-rings on the adapter. Put the inside pad in place by positioning the pad on the adaptor with its flanges in the adapter "ways."
- Carefully slide the caliper assembly into place in the adapter and over the disc. Align the caliper on the adapter.
- Install the anti-rattle springs and retaining clips and tighten the screws to 15 ft. lbs. The springs go over the retaining clips.
- Step on the brake pedal several times until you feel a firm pedal. Refill the master cylinder. Bleed the brakes if the pedal doesn't come up.
- Install the wheels and tighten the lug nuts to 85 ft. lbs. in a criss-cross pattern.
- Lower car and road test.