Be careful not to spill brake fluid on the painted surfaces of your car. The brake fluid will cause damage to the paint.
REMOVAL & INSTALLATION
- Disconnect all hydraulic lines from the master cylinder. On models with remote reservoir, remove and plug the hoses from the master cylinder caps. If the master cylinder has a fluid level warning device, disconnect the wiring harness.
- On non-power brake cars, remove the clevis pin that connects the master cylinder pushrod to the brake pedal.
- Loosen and remove the master cylinder mounting nuts, either from the firewall (manual brakes) or from the power brake booster. Remove the master cylinder.
- Mount the master cylinder to the firewall (manual brakes) or to the power brake booster. Torque the nuts to 10 ft. lbs.
- Connect the pushrod to the brake pedal (manual brakes).
- Connect all brake lines and wiring harnesses and fill the master cylinder reservoirs with clean fluid.
- Bleed the brake system as outlined in this section.
- Disconnect the fluid level sensor.
- Disconnect the brake tubes from the master cylinder and cap them immediately.
- On cars with a turbocharger, remove the reservoir from the reservoir holder.
- Unbolt and remove the master cylinder from the booster.
- Install the master cylinder to the booster. Install the reservoir. Connect the brake lines and the fluid level sensor. Torque the mounting bolts to 6-9 ft. lbs. (72-108 inch lbs.).
This is a tedious, time-consuming job. You can save yourself a lot of trouble by buying a rebuilt master cylinder from your dealer or a parts supply house. The small difference in cost between a rebuilding kit and a rebuilt part usually makes it more economical, in terms of time and work, to buy the rebuilt part.
- Remove the master cylinder from the car.
- Remove the reservoir caps and filters and drain the brake fluid. Discard this fluid.
- Remove the piston stopper snapring from the open end of the master cylinder with a pair of snapring pliers, or other suitable tool.
- Remove the stopper screw and washer (if equipped) from the bottom of the master cylinder and then remove the primary and secondary piston assemblies from the master cylinder bore.
- Remove the caps on the underside of the master cylinder to gain access to the check valves for cleaning.
Do not disassemble the brake fluid level gauge, if equipped.
- Discard all used rubber parts and gaskets. These parts should be replaced with the new components included in the rebuilding kit.
Do not remove the master cylinder reservoir tanks unless they are leaking.
- Clean all the parts in clean brake fluid. Do not use mineral oil or alcohol for cleaning.
- Check the cylinder bore and piston for wear, scoring, corrosion, or any other damage. The piston and cylinder bore can be dressed with crocus cloth, or a brake cylinder hone, soaked in brake fluid. Move the crocus cloth around the cylinder bore, not in and out. Do the same to the piston, if necessary. Wash both the cylinder bore and the piston with clean brake fluid.
- Check the piston-to-cylinder bore clearance; it should measure 0.15mm. If greater clearance exists, replace the piston, the cylinder, or both.
- Assemble the master cylinder. Soak all of the components in clean brake fluid before assembling them.
- Clamp the master cylinder in a vise by one of its flanges. Fill the reservoirs with fresh fluid, and pump the piston with a screwdriver until fluid squirts from the outlet ports. Install the master cylinder and bleed the system.