Before handling the bearings, there are a few things that you should remember to do and not to do.Remember to DO the following:
Semi-Floating Front Axle
See Figure 1
- Raise and support the front end on jackstands.
- Remove the wheel cover. Remove the wheel.
- Remove the caliper from the disc and wire it to the underbody to prevent damage to the brake hose. See Brakes .
- Remove the grease cap from the hub. Then, remove the cotter pin, nut lock, adjusting nut and flat washer from the spindle. Remove the outer bearing assembly from the hub.
- Pull the hub and disc assembly off the wheel spindle.
- Remove and discard the old grease retainer. Remove the inner bearing cone and roller assembly from the hub.
- Clean all grease from the inner and outer bearing cups with solvent. Inspect the cups for pits, scratches, or excessive wear. If the cups are damaged, remove them with a drift.
- Clean the inner and outer cone and roller assemblies with solvent and shake them dry. If the cone and roller assemblies show excessive wear or damage, replace them with the bearing cups as a unit.
- Clean the spindle and the inside of the hub with solvent to thoroughly remove all old grease.
- Covering the spindle with a clean cloth, brush all loose dirt and dust from the brake assembly. Remove the cloth carefully so as to not get dirt on the spindle.
- If the bearing races were removed, install new ones using a bearing race installer (a suitably sized round driver.
- It is imperative that all old grease be removed from the bearings and surrounding surfaces before repacking. The new lithium-based grease is not compatible with the sodium base grease used in the past.
- Pack the bearings with a bearing packer. If done by hand, take great care to force as much grease as possible between the rollers and the cages, scoop the grease in from the top and bottom of the bearing cages.
- Coat the inner surface of the hub and bearing races with grease.
- Install the inner bearing in the hub. Lubricate the lip of the seal with grease, then being careful not to distort it, install the oil seal with its lip facing the bearing. Drive the seal in until its outer edge is even with the edge of the hub. A seal installer is best to use for this, but any suitably sized and smooth edge round driver can be used, including a piece of plastic pipe or a socket.
- Install the rotor.
- Install the outer bearing cone and roller assembly and the flat washer on the spindle. Install the adjusting nut.
- Adjust the wheel bearings by torquing the adjusting nut to 17-25 ft. lbs. (23-24 Nm) with the wheel rotating to seat the bearing. Then back off the adjusting nut 1 / 2 turn. Retighten the adjusting nut to 10-28 inch lbs. (1.1-3.2 Nm). Install the locknut so that the castellations are aligned with the cotter pin hole. Install the cotter pin. Bend the ends of the cotter pin around the castellations of the locknut to prevent interference with the radio static collector in the grease cap. Install the grease cap.
- Install the wheels.
- Install the wheel cover.
Full Floating Rear Axle
See Figures 2 through 6
The wheel bearings on full floating rear axles are packed with wheel bearing grease. Axle lubricant can also flow into the wheel hubs and bearings, however, wheel bearing grease is the primary lubricant. The wheel bearing grease provides lubrication until the axle lubricant reaches the bearings during normal operation.
- Set the parking brake and loosen, but do not remove the axle shaft bolts.
- Raise the rear wheels off the floor and place jackstands under the rear axle housing so that the axle is parallel with the floor.
- The axle shafts must turn freely, so release the parking brake and, if necessary, back off the rear brake adjustment.
- Remove the axle shaft bolts and lockwashers. They should not be reused.
- Place a heavy duty wheel dolly under the wheels and raise them so that all weight is off the wheel bearings.
- Remove the axle shaft and gasket(s).
- Remove the brake drum or caliper. See Brakes .
- Using a special hub nut wrench, remove the hub nut.
Verify the thread direction before proceeding. Typically, the hub nut on the right spindle has a right-hand thread, while the one on the left spindle has a left-hand thread. If so, they will be marked RH and LH. If neither side is marked, chances are they both have a right-hand thread. NEVER use an impact wrench on the hub nut!
- Remove the outer bearing cone and pull the wheel straight off the axle.
- With a piece of hardwood or a brass drift which will just clear the outer bearing cup, drive the inner bearing cone and inner seal out of the wheel hub.
- Wash all the old grease or axle lubricant out of the wheel hub, using a suitable solvent.
- Wash the bearing cups and rollers and inspect them for pitting, galling, and uneven wear patterns. Inspect the roller for end wear.
- If the bearing cups are to be replaced, drive them out with a brass drift.
- Install the new cups with a block of wood and hammer or press them in.
- If the bearing cups are properly seated, a 0.0015 in. (0.038mm) feeler gauge will not fit between the cup and the wheel hub. The gauge should not fit beneath the cup. Check several places to make sure the cups are squarely seated.
- Pack each bearing cone and roller with a bearing packer or in the manner previously outlined for the front wheel bearings. Use a multi-purpose wheel bearing grease.
- Place the inner bearing cone and roller assembly in the wheel hub. Install a new inner seal in the hub with a seal installation tool.
- Wrap the threads of the spindle with electrician's tape and carefully slide the hub straight on the spindle. Take care to avoid damaging the seal! Remove the tape.
- Install the outer bearing. Start the hub nut, making sure that the hub tab is engaged with the keyway prior to threading.
- Tighten the nut to 65-75 ft. lbs. (88-102 Nm) while rotating the wheel. DO NOT use an impact wrench!
The hub will ratchet as torque is applied. This ratcheting can be avoided by using Ford tool No. T88T-4252-AH or its equivalent. Avoiding ratcheting will give more even bearing preloads.
- Back off (loosen) the adjusting nut 90° ( 1 / 4 turn). Then, tighten it to 15-20 ft. lbs. (20-27 Nm).
- Using a dial indicator, check end-play of the hub. No end-play is permitted.
- Clean the hub bolt holes thoroughly. Replace the hub if any cracks are found around the holes or if the threads in the holes are in any way damaged.
- Install the axle shaft, new flange gasket, lockwashers and new shaft retaining bolts. Coat the bolt threads with thread adhesive. Tighten them snugly, but not completely.
Install the brake drum or caliper.
Install the wheel.
Lower the van to the ground.
Tighten the wheel lug nuts.
Tighten the axle shaft bolts to 70-85 ft. lbs. (94-115 Nm).