REMOVAL & INSTALLATION
See Figure 1
- Disconnect the negative battery cable and remove the air cleaner.
- Remove the cruise control actuator cable and cruise control servo.
If equipped with the 2.3L engine:
- Relieve the fuel system pressure.
- Disconnect the accelerator cable from the throttle body. Remove the screw that secures the accelerator cable to the accelerator shaft bracket and remove the cable from the bracket.
- Remove the screws that secure the accelerator shaft bracket to the manifold and rotate the bracket toward the engine. Remove the horn.
- Unplug the two manifold injector connectors located near the oil dipstick retaining bracket. Disconnect the two fuel hoses to the fuel supply manifold.
- Remove the three bolts holding the oil dipstick bracket to the upper intake manifold. Remove the dipstick and bracket.
- Remove the windshield wiper motor and remove the vacuum hoses directly over the brake booster at the dash panel vacuum tee.
- Remove the bolt holding the clutch cable stand. Move the bracket to the side rail at the fender inner panel.
- Move the cruise control cable, if equipped, to the side to clear the booster.
- Disconnect the manifold vacuum hose from the booster check valve.
- Disconnect the brake lines from the master cylinder. Remove the master cylinder retaining nuts and remove the master cylinder.
- Inside the vehicle, remove the stoplight switch connector. Remove the switch retaining pin and slide the switch off the brake pedal pin just far enough for the outer arm to clear the pin, then remove the switch. Be careful not to damage the switch.
- Remove the booster retaining nuts. If necessary, remove the cowl top intrusion bolt.
- If equipped with cruise control, remove and set aside the control amplifier, mounted on the lower outboard booster stud.
- Slide the booster pushrod, washers and bushing off the brake pedal pin. Remove the booster.
- Installation is the reverse of the removal procedure. Tighten the booster mounting nuts and the master cylinder retaining nuts to 13-25 ft. lbs (18-34 Nm). If the brake lines were disconnected, bleed the brake system.
BRAKE BOOSTER PUSHROD ADJUSTMENT
See Figures 2 and 3
The pushrod has an adjustment screw to maintain the correct relationship between the booster control valve plunger and the master cylinder piston. If the plunger is too long, it will prevent the master cylinder piston from completely releasing pressure, causing the brakes to drag. If the plunger is too short, it will cause excessive pedal travel and an undesirable clunk in the booster area. Remove the master cylinder for access to the booster pushrod.
To check the adjustment of the screw, fabricate a gauge (from cardboard, following the dimensions in the illustration) and place it against the master cylinder mounting surface of the booster body. Adjust the pushrod screw by turning it until the end of the screw just touches the inner edge of the slot in the gauge. Install the master cylinder and bleed the system.