The 2.3L engines covered by this information are equipped with a radiator mounted electric cooling fan. All 5.0L engines are instead equipped with a belt driven engine cooling fan clutch and fan assembly.
See Figure 1
The single speed electric cooling fan is attached to the fan shroud behind the radiator. The system is wired to operate only with the ignition switch in the RUN position. The cooling fan is controlled either by a cooling fan control module (early models) or by a solid state Constant Control Relay Module (CCRM) and the engine control computer.
On early models, the cooling fan temperature switch will close at temperatures above 221°F (105°C) providing ground to the relay terminal which receives power from the ignition switch. At this point the relay will close the circuit from the fuse link providing voltage to the engine cooling fan. The A/C fan control relay and timing control circuit can also provide ground to the fan control relay. A wide-open throttle cut-out control is incorporated into the timing control.
On late models, the CCRM will energize the fan with power from the fuse link when it and the engine control module receive input from the temperature switch indicating that the engine coolant temperature has reached at least 221°F (105°C). It will stop the fan once the temperature drops below 200°F (90°C). They will also activate the cooling fan if the A/C is on and the vehicle speed does not provide a sufficient airflow (energizes fan below 43 mph/69 kmph and stops fan at or above 48 mph/77 kmph).
A quick check of the fan itself can be made by circumventing the control circuit and providing battery voltage directly to the motor. If the fan works with the control circuit by-passed, then the control circuit is at fault. If the fan still does not work, then the motor should be checked for binding or damage and repaired or replaced.
- Disengage the electrical connector at the cooling fan motor.
- Connect a jumper wire between the negative motor lead and ground.
- Connect another jumper wire between the positive motor lead and the positive terminal of the battery.
- If the cooling fan motor does not run, it should be replaced. If the motor works, the control circuit is the problem and must be repaired.
REMOVAL & INSTALLATION
See Figure 2
- Disconnect the negative battery cable for safety.
- Remove the fan wiring harness from the routing clip. Disconnect the wiring harness from the fan motor connector by pulling up on the single lock finger to separate the connectors.
- Remove the mounting bracket attaching screws (usually 4) and remove the fan assembly from the vehicle.
If necessary, the fan and motor can be separated to replace either of the components:
- Remove the retaining clip from the end of the motor shaft and remove the fan.
A metal burr may be present on the motor after the retaining clip is removed. Deburring of the shaft may be required to remove the fan.
- Remove the nuts attaching the fan motor to the mounting bracket.
If separated for replacement, assembly the fan and motor:
- Position the motor on the shroud bracket and install the retaining nuts. Tighten the nuts to 49-62 inch lbs. (5.5-7.0 Nm).
- Install the fan on the motor shaft using the retaining clip.
- Position the fan and shroud assembly in the vehicle, then install the mounting bracket retaining screws. Tighten the screws to 70-95 inch lbs. (8.0-10.5 Nm).
- Engage the motor wiring connector to the harness. Make sure the lock finger on the connector snaps firmly into place.
- Connect the negative battery cable.
- Run the engine and check for proper fan operation.