REMOVAL & INSTALLATION
See Figures 1 and 2
- Block the cylinder head on its side, or install a pair of head-holding brackets made especially for valve removal.
- Using a socket slightly larger than the valve stem and keepers, place the socket over the valve stem and gently hit the socket with a plastic hammer to break loose any varnish buildup.
- Remove the valve keepers, retainer, spring shield and valve spring using a valve spring compressor (the locking C-clamp type is the easiest kind to use).
- Put the parts in a separate container numbered for the cylinder being worked on; do not mix them with other parts removed.
- Remove and discard the valve stem oil seals. A new seal will be used at assembly time.
- Remove the valves from the cylinder head and place them, in order, through numbered holes punched in a stiff piece of cardboard or wood valve holding stick.
The exhaust valve stems, on some engines, are equipped with small metal caps. Take care not to lose the caps. Make sure to install them at assembly time. Replace any caps that are worn.
- Use an electric drill and rotary wire brush to clean the intake and exhaust valve ports, combustion chamber and valve seats. In some cases, the carbon will need to be chipped away. Use a blunt pointed drift for carbon chipping. Be careful around the valve seat areas.
- Use a wire valve guide cleaning brush and safe solvent to clean the valve guides.
- Clean the valves with a revolving wire brush. Heavy carbon deposits may be removed with the blunt drift.
When using a wire brush to clean carbon on the valve ports, valves etc., be sure that the deposits are actually removed, rather than burnished.
- Wash and clean all valve springs, keepers, retaining caps etc., in a safe solvent.
- Clean the cylinder head with a brush and some safe solvent, and wipe dry.
- Inspect the cylinder head, valves, valve guides, and valve seats for wear, and have them refaced or replaced as necessary.
- Install the valves in the cylinder head, along with the metal caps, if equipped.
- Install new valve stem oil seals.
- Install the valve keepers, retainer, spring shield and valve spring using a valve spring compressor (the locking C-clamp type is the easiest kind to use).
- Check the valve spring installed height, and shim or replace as necessary.
See Figures 3, 4 and 5
- Check the cylinder head for cracks. Cracks in the cylinder head usually start around an exhaust valve seat because it is the hottest part of the combustion chamber. If a crack is suspected but cannot be detected visually, have the area checked with dye penetrant or other method by the machine shop.
- After all cylinder head parts are reasonably clean, check the valve stem-to-guide clearance. If a dial indicator is not available, a visual inspection can give you a fairly good idea if the guide, valve stem or both are worn.
- Insert the valve into the guide until slightly away from the valve seat. Wiggle the valve sideways. A small amount of wobble is normal, but excessive wobble means a worn guide or valve stem. If a dial indicator is available, mount the indicator so that the stem of the indicator is at a 90° angle to the valve stem, as close to the valve guide as possible. Move the valve off the seat, and measure the valve guide-to-stem clearance by rocking the stem back and forth to actuate the dial indicator. Measure the valve stem using a micrometer and compare to specifications to determine whether stem or guide wear is causing excessive clearance.
- The valve guide, if worn, must be repaired before the valve seats can be resurfaced. Ford supplies valves with oversize stems to fit valve guides that are reamed to oversize for repair. The machine shop will be able to handle the guide reaming for you. In some cases, if the guide is not too badly worn, knurling may be all that is required.
- After all valve and valve seats have been refaced, check the remaining valve train parts (springs, retainers, keepers, etc.) for wear. Check the valve springs for straightness and tension.