REMOVAL & INSTALLATION
See Figures 1, 2, 3, 4 and 5
- Remove the manual transmission assembly from the vehicle. For details, refer to the procedures located earlier in this section.
- If equipped with a clutch cable (1982-83) and not performed for transmission removal, disconnect the cable from the clutch lever and move it aside.
- If equipped with a hydraulic clutch system (1984-93) and not performed for transmission removal, disconnect the slave cylinder from the clutch release fork and move it aside.
- If the bell housing was not removed with the transmission, remove the inspection cover (if equipped), then loosen the retaining bolts and remove the bell housing from the rear of the engine assembly.
- Remove the clutch fork from the ball stud (by carefully prying it free) and the dust boot (if applicable). Except for vehicles equipped with a New Venture Gear transmission, carefully pry the retainer out of the clutch fork (if it is not damaged). On late model vehicles, or as necessary, remove the ball stud.
A used clutch drive gear may be used as an alignment tool. This may be available inexpensively from a junk yard or a transmission rebuilding shop.
- Insert a clutch alignment tool such as No. J-33169 (V6 and late model 4-cylinder engines), J-33034 (early model 4-cylinder engines), or equivalent, into the crankshaft pilot bearing to support the clutch assembly.
- Check for an "X" or other painted mark on the pressure plate and flywheel. If no marks are readily visible, matchmark the flywheel, clutch cover and pressure plate lug for installation purposes.
- Loosen the pressure plate-to-flywheel bolts, evenly and alternately, a little at a time, until the spring tension is released. Remove the pressure plate, driven clutch plate and alignment tool.
- Check the flywheel for cracks, wear, scoring or other damage. Check the pilot bearing for wear. If necessary, replace the bearing by removing it with a slide-type bearing puller and driving in a new one with a wood or plastic hammer. Lubricate the new pilot bearing with a few drops of machine oil.
- If available, check the driven plate for run-out using a dial gauge. Run-out should not exceed 0.02 in. (0.508mm).
- Using the clutch alignment tool to support the clutch, align and install the clutch plate and cover assembly. If a new clutch is being installed, align the manufacturer's marks as directed.
- Install the washers and bolts, then tighten each bolt one turn at a time to avoid warping the clutch cover. If spring washers were used, new ones should be installed. Once the bolts are fully threaded, tighten each one to 15 ft. lbs. (20 Nm) for vehicles through 1991, or to 30 ft. lbs. (40 Nm) for 1992-93 vehicles. Remove the clutch alignment tool.
- If removed, install the ball stud. Pack the seat and coat the rounded end of the ball stud with high temperature (wheel bearing) grease.
The clutch release bearing used on most vehicles covered by this guide is permanently packed with lubricant and should NOT be soaked in cleaning solvent as this will dissolve the lubricant.
- Install the release bearing and the clutch fork. Pack the inside recess (A) and coat the outside groove (B) of the release bearing with high-temperature wheel bearing grease. Please refer to the illustration for lubrication points.
- If separate, install the flywheel housing and retaining bolts.
- If removed, install the inspection cover.
- For vehicles equipped with a hydraulic clutch system (and the flywheel housing is already installed), reposition and secure the slave cylinder.
- For vehicles equipped with a clutch cable (and the flywheel housing is already installed), install and adjust the clutch cable.
- Install the manual transmission assembly. For details, please refer to the procedures located earlier in this section.