GM Buick/Oldsmobile/Pontiac/Full-Size 1975-1990 Repair Guide

Carburetor Removal & Installation

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REMOVAL & INSTALLATION



See Figures 1 through 11

  1. Disconnect the negative (-) battery cable. Remove the air cleaner assembly.
  2.  
  3. Tag and disconnect all vacuum lines, electric wires and fuel lines from the carburetor. Tag and disconnect the throttle linkage and cruise control (if so equipped).
  4.  
  5. Disconnect the automatic transmission downshift linkage.
  6.  
  7. Remove the carburetor attaching nuts or bolts and remove the carburetor.
  8.  

To install:
  1. Use a new gasket and fill the float bowl with fuel to ease starting. On late model vehicles with bolts of two different lengths, torque the long bolts to 7 ft. lbs. (10 Nm) and the short bolts to 11 ft. lbs. (14 Nm). Use a cross pattern to torque.
  2.  
  3. Reconnect throttle and transmission linkages.
  4.  
  5. Reconnect the fuel line, all vacuum lines and electrical connections.
  6.  
  7. Reinstall the air cleaner and reconnect the negative battery cable.
  8.  



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Fig. Fig. 1: The throttle cable is retained by a small clip; all models similar



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Fig. Fig. 2: Disconnecting the TPS sensor



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Fig. Fig. 3: Disconnecting the mixture control solenoid



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Fig. Fig. 4: Be sure to label the vacumm hoses when disconnecting them



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Fig. Fig. 5: Removing the fuel line from the carburetor



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Fig. Fig. 6: Place a rag under the fuel fitting to catch any dripping fuel



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Fig. Fig. 7: Removing the carburetor attaching bolts



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Fig. Fig. 8: Note the length of the bolts; be sure to install them in the correct location during reinstallation



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Fig. Fig. 9: Removing the carburetor base attaching bolts



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Fig. Fig. 10: Removing the carburetor from the vehicle



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Fig. Fig. 11: Be sure to discard the old gasket; always use a new gasket during reassembly

OVERHAUL



Efficient carburetion depends greatly on careful cleaning and inspection during overhaul, since dirt, gum, water, or varnish in or on the carburetor parts are often responsible for poor performance.

Overhaul your carburetor in a clean, dust free area. Carefully disassemble the carburetor, referring often to the exploded views and directions packaged with the rebuilding kit. Keep all similar and look-alike parts segregated during disassembly and cleaning to avoid accidental interchange during assembly. Make a note of all jet sizes.

When the carburetor is disassembled, wash all parts (except diaphragms, electric choke units, pump plunger, and any other plastic, leather, fiber, or rubber parts) in clean carburetor solvent. Do not leave parts in the solvent any longer than is necessary to sufficiently loosen the deposits. Excessive cleaning may remove the special finish from the float bowl and choke valve bodies, leaving these parts unfit for service. Rinse all parts in clean solvent and blow them dry with compressed air or allow them to air dry. Wipe clean all cork, plastic, leather, and fiber parts with a clean, lint-free cloth.

Blow out all passages and jets with compressed air and be sure that there are no restrictions or blockages. Never use wire or similar tools to clean jets, fuel passages, or air bleeds. Clean all jets and valves separately to avoid accidental interchange.

Check all parts for wear or damage. If wear or damage is found, replace the defective parts. Especially check the following:

  1. Check the float needle and seat for wear. If wear is found, replace the complete assembly.
  2.  
  3. Check the float hinge pin for wear and the float(s) for dents or distortion. Replace the float if fuel has leaked into it.
  4.  
  5. Check the throttle and choke shaft bores for wear or an out-of-round condition. Damage or wear to the throttle arm, shaft, or shaft bore will often require replacement of the throttle body. These parts require a close tolerance of fit; wear may allow air leakage, which could affect starting and idling.
  6.  

Throttle shafts and bushings are not included in overhaul kits. They can be purchased separately.

  1. Inspect the idle mixture adjusting needle for burrs or grooves. Any such condition requires replacement of the needle, since you will not be able to obtain a satisfactory idle.
  2.  
  3. Test the accelerator pump check valves. They should pass air one way but not the other. Test for proper seating by blowing and sucking on the valve. Replace the valve as necessary. If the valve is satisfactory, wash the valve again to remove breath moisture.
  4.  
  5. Check the bowl cover for warped surfaces with a straight edge.
  6.  
  7. Closely inspect the valves and seats for wear and damage, replacing as necessary.
  8.  
  9. After the carburetor is assembled, check the choke valve for freedom of operation.
  10.  

Carburetor overhaul kits are recommended for each overhaul. These kits contain all gaskets and new parts to replace those which deteriorate most rapidly. Failure to replace all parts supplied with the kit (especially gaskets) can result in poor performance later.

After cleaning and checking all components, reassemble the carburetor, using new parts and referring to the exploded view supplied in the kit. When reassembling, make sure that all screws and jets are tight in their seats, but do not overtighten, as the tips will be distorted. Tighten all screws gradually, in rotation. DO NOT tighten needle valves into their seats; needle valve and valve seat damage will occur, along with uneven jetting. Always use new gaskets. Be sure to adjust the float level when reassembling.

C-4 and CCC carburetors incorporate a mixture solenoid. There are several adjustments that must be performed on this device when the carburetor receives a major rebuild. The adjustments are highly complex and require expensive special tools. Review the overhaul procedures before disassembling the carburetor.

Complete major rebuild and adjustment of late model carburetors is best performed by a properly trained and equipped mechanic.

2GV, GC, GE Models

See Figures 12 and 13

  1. Remove the fuel inlet fitting, gasket, fuel filter and spring. Remove the pump rod by removing the lower retaining clip and rotating the pump rod until lug on the upper end of the rod passes through the upper pump lever. Remove the fast idle cam attaching screw, then remove the fast idle cam and rod assembly by rotating until lug on upper end of the choke rod passes through slot in the upper choke lever and collar assembly.
  2.  
  3. Remove the vacuum break hose. Remove the vacuum break by removing the two attaching screws. Remove the break rod from the lever by rotating the rod until the end slides out of the slot in the lever, and the lug on the other end of the rod out of the slot of the vacuum diaphragm plunger shaft.
  4.  
  5. Remove the air horn attaching screws and guide the air horn gently upward from the bowl. Invert the air horn and remove the float hinge pin and float assembly. Remove the float needle from the arm then remove the float needle seat and gasket. Remove the power piston by depressing the stem and allowing it to snap free. Remove the pump plunger assembly from the inner pump arm by rotating the assembly until the end of the shaft will slide out of the hole in the inner pump lever. Loosen the set screw on the inner arm and remove the outer lever and shaft assembly.
  6.  

A plastic washer is used between the outer pump lever and the air horn casting, do not immerse it in carburetor cleaner.

  1. Remove the choke valve retaining screws and the choke valve from the shaft. Remove the shaft, then remove the lever and collar assembly from the shaft while noting the position of the choke lever in relation to the to the trip lever on the choke shaft.
  2.  
  3. Remove the pump plunger return spring from the well, then remove the check ball by inverting the bowl and shaking it into your hand. Remove the pump inlet screen, main jets, power valve and gasket. Remove the three venturi attaching screws, cluster and gasket.
  4.  

The center cluster has a smooth shank and fiber gasket to seal accelerator pump by-pass.

  1. Remove the plastic main well inserts, then using needle-nose pliers, remove the pump discharge ball spring "T" retainer, then remove discharge spring and ball. Invert the carburetor and remove the throttle body to bowl attaching screws, throttle body and body-to-bowl gasket. On 2GC carburetors, remove the choke cover attaching screws, retainer, cover and coil assembly, and the gasket. Also on the 2GC, remove the baffle plate from the inside of the choke housing, then remove the choke housing attaching screws, choke housing and gasket. Then, remove the screw from the end of the intermediate choke shaft and remove the intermediate choke lever, choke coil lever, shaft assembly and dust seal from the choke housing.
  2.  



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Fig. Fig. 12: Exploded view of 2GC, GV, GE model carburetors

Reassembly:

Reassemble the carburetor by reversing disassembly. Use all new seals and gaskets. Note the following:

  1. After installing the mixture screws and springs, back out screws 2 turns as a preliminary idle adjustment.
  2.  
  3. Install the choke valve with identifying mark "RP" upward. Center choke valve before tightening screws. Valve can be centered by installing the fast idle lever and the choke trip lever on the end of the shaft and maintaining a 0.020 in. clearance between the fast idle lever and the air horn casting. Stake the choke valve screws lightly after tightening. The choke valve should move freely in the housing.
  4.  
  5. Lubricate the accelerator pump shaft with a suitable lubricant (light grease) when installing it in the bowl cover. Make certain that the pump check balls are not interchanged. Inlet check ball is aluminum, the discharge check ball is steel. Some models may have a two-piece pump plunger assembly in place of the inlet check ball.
  6.  



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Fig. Fig. 13: 2GC, GE, GV air horn tightening sequence

All Other 2 BBL Models
EXCEPT C-4 AND CCC

See Figures 14, 15 and 16

  1. Remove the air cleaner stud, idle speed solenoid and wide open throttle switch, if equipped.
  2.  
  3. Remove the upper choke lever from the end of the choke shaft by removing the retaining screw. Then rotate the upper choke lever to remove the choke rod from the slot in the lever.
  4.  
  5. Using a drift punch, drive the pump lever roll pin inward until pump lever can be removed from the air horn. Note position of the pump rod for later reassembly.
  6.  
  7. Remove the vacuum break "T" tube, if equipped.
  8.  
  9. Remove the seven air horn-to-bowl attaching screws; two countersunk screws are located next to the venturi.
  10.  
  11. Remove the air horn from the float bowl by lifting straight up. The air horn should remain on the float bowl for removal later.
  12.  
  13. Remove the front vacuum break hose. Then, remove the two attaching screws and remove the vacuum break and bracket assembly. Remove the pump plunger stem seal retainer by inverting the air horn and use a small screwdriver to remove the staking holding the seal retainer in place.
  14.  
  15. Remove the air horn gasket by lifting out of dowel locating pins and lifting tab of gasket from beneath the power piston hanger, being careful not to distort the springs holding the metering rods.
  16.  
  17. Remove the pump plunger and return spring from the pump well.
  18.  
  19. Remove the power piston and metering rods by depressing the piston and releasing it with a snap. This will cause the power piston to snap the piston up against the retainer. This procedure may have to be repeated several times. Do not remove the power piston by using pliers.
  20.  

Use special care not to distort the metering rods.

  1. Remove the plastic filler block over the float valve.
  2.  
  3. Remove the float assembly and float needle by pulling up on the retaining pin. Remove the seat and gasket using a seat remover.
  4.  
  5. Remove the aneroid cavity insert from the float bowl.
  6.  
  7. Remove the pump discharge check ball retainer and check ball.
  8.  
  9. Remove the pump well fill slot baffle.
  10.  
  11. Where used, remove the rear vacuum break hose. Remove the two attaching screws and rotate the assembly to remove the vacuum break rod from the slot in the plunger head.
  12.  
  13. Remove the vacuum break rod by holding down on the fast idle cam; move end of vacuum break rod away from the float bowl. Disengage the rod from the hole in the intermediate choke lever.
  14.  
  15. Support the float bowl and throttle body as an assembly on a suitable holding fixture. Carefully align a number 21 drill (0.159 in.) on the pop-type rivet head and drill enough to remove only the head. Then, use an drift and a small hammer to drive the remainder of the rivet out of the choke housing.
  16.  
  17. Remove the retainers, choke cover and gasket from the housing.
  18.  
  19. Remove the choke housing from the float bowl by removing the retaining screw from inside the housing. The complete choke hosing can then be pulled from the bowl. Remove the cup seal and plastic tube seal.
  20.  
  21. Remove the lower choke lever from inside the float bowl by inverting the bowl.
  22.  
  23. Remove the fuel inlet nut, gasket, check valve filter assembly and spring.
  24.  
  25. Remove the throttle body and gasket by removing the attaching screws.
  26.  

Reassembly:

Reassemble the carburetor by reversing disassembly. Use all new seals and gaskets. Note the following:

  1. If the idle mixture needles were removed, back them out 3 1 / 2 turns as a preliminary adjustment. Final adjustments should be performed by a qualified technician.
  2.  
  3. Using a holding tool, install the lower choke rod inner lever into the cavity in the float bowl and slide the intermediate choke shaft and housing into the lower choke rod inner lever. The intermediate choke shaft lever and fast idle cam are in the correct position when the tang on the lever is beneath the fast idle cam. Do not install the choke cover until the inside coil lever is adjusted.
  4.  
  5. Do not install the float needle pull clip into the holes in the float arm.
  6.  
  7. Do not force the air horn assembly onto the bowl; lower it carefully in place.
  8.  
  9. Install the air horn screws using the proper tightening sequence.
  10.  
  11. Perform all applicable adjustments.
  12.  



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Fig. Fig. 14: Exploded view of all 2 BBL models; except 2GC, GV, GE



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Fig. Fig. 15: M2ME and M2MC air horn tightening sequence

C-4 AND CCC
  1. Remove the air cleaner stud, idle speed solenoid and wide open throttle switch, if equipped.
  2.  
  3. Remove the upper choke lever from the end of the choke shaft by removing the retaining screw. Then rotate the upper choke lever to remove the choke rod from the slot in the lever.
  4.  
  5. Using a drift punch, drive the pump lever roll pin inward until pump lever can be removed from the air horn. Note position of the pump rod for later reassembly.
  6.  
  7. Remove the vacuum break "T" tube, if equipped.
  8.  
  9. Remove the nine air horn-to-bowl attaching screws; two countersunk screws are located next to the venturi.
  10.  
  11. Remove the air horn from the float bowl by lifting straight up. The air horn should remain on the float bowl for removal later.
  12.  
  13. Remove the front vacuum break hose. Then, remove the two attaching screws and remove the vacuum break and bracket assembly. Remove the pump plunger stem and TPS seal retainers by inverting the air horn and use a small screwdriver to remove the staking holding the seal retainer in place.
  14.  
  15. Holding down on pump plunger stem, raise the corner of air horn gasket and remove the pump plunger from the well.
  16.  
  17. Remove the solenoid-metering rod plunger by lifting it straight up.
  18.  
  19. Remove the rubber seal from around the mixture control solenoid plunger.
  20.  
  21. Remove the air horn gasket by lifting it off of the dowel locating pins on the float bowl.
  22.  
  23. Remove the pump return spring from the pump well.
  24.  
  25. Remove the TPS by pushing up on the bottom of the connector.
  26.  
  27. Remove the plastic filler block over the float valve.
  28.  
  29. Carefully lift each metering rod out of the guided metering jet, checking to make sure the return spring is removed with each metering rod.
  30.  

Use special care not to distort the metering rods.

  1. Remove the solenoid connector attaching screw.
  2.  
  3. Using a suitable tool on the upper end of the mixture control solenoid screw, turn the screw counterclockwise and remove it from the float bowl. Then, carefully lift the mixture control solenoid and connector assembly from the float bowl.
  4.  
  5. Remove the plastic insert from the cavity in the float bowl.
  6.  
  7. Remove the solenoid screw tension spring.
  8.  
  9. Remove the float assembly, then the seat and gasket using a seat remover.
  10.  
  11. Remove the large mixture control solenoid tension spring from the boss on the bottom of the float bowl.
  12.  
  13. Remove the pump discharge check ball retainer and check ball.
  14.  
  15. Remove the pump well fill slot baffle.
  16.  
  17. Where used, remove the rear vacuum break hose. Remove the two attaching screws and rotate the assembly to remove the vacuum break rod from the slot in the plunger head.
  18.  
  19. Remove the vacuum break rod by holding down on the fast idle cam; move end of vacuum break rod away from the float bowl. Disengage the rod from the hole in the intermediate choke lever.
  20.  
  21. Support the float bowl and throttle body as an assembly on a suitable holding fixture. Carefully align a number 21 drill (0.159 in.) on the pop-type rivet head and drill enough to remove only the head. Then, use an drift and a small hammer to drive the remainder of the rivet out of the choke housing.
  22.  
  23. Remove the retainers, choke cover and gasket from the housing.
  24.  
  25. Remove the choke housing from the float bowl by removing the retaining screw from inside the housing. The complete choke hosing can then be pulled from the bowl. Remove the cup seal and plastic tube seal.
  26.  
  27. Remove the lower choke lever from inside the float bowl by inverting the bowl.
  28.  
  29. Remove the fuel inlet nut, gasket, check valve filter assembly and spring.
  30.  
  31. Remove the throttle body and gasket by removing the attaching screws.
  32.  

Reassembly:

Reassemble the carburetor by reversing disassembly. Use all new seals and gaskets. Note the following:

  1. If the idle mixture needles were removed, back them out 5 1 / 2 turns as a preliminary adjustment. Final adjustments should be performed by a qualified technician.
  2.  
  3. Using a holding tool, install the lower choke rod inner lever into the cavity in the float bowl and slide the intermediate choke shaft and housing into the lower choke rod inner lever. The intermediate choke shaft lever and fast idle cam are in the correct position when the tang on the lever is beneath the fast idle cam. Do not install the choke cover until the inside coil lever is adjusted.
  4.  
  5. Do not install the float needle pull clip into the holes in the float arm.
  6.  
  7. Turn the mixture control screw clockwise until it is bottomed lightly in the bowl. Turn the screw counterclockwise exactly 3 1 / 2 turns. Final adjustments should be performed by a qualified technician.
  8.  
  9. Do not force the air horn assembly onto the bowl; lower it carefully in place while holding down on pump plunger assembly. Also take care not to pinch the TPS connector wires between the air horn and the float bowl.
  10.  
  11. Install the air horn screws using the proper tightening sequence.
  12.  
  13. Perform all applicable adjustments.
  14.  



Click image to see an enlarged view

Fig. Fig. 16: E2ME and E2MC air horn tightening sequence

All 4 BBL Models
EXCEPT C-4 AND CCC

See Figures 17, 18 and 19

  1. Remove the idle speed solenoid and wide open throttle switch, if equipped.
  2.  
  3. Remove the upper choke lever from the end of the choke shaft by removing the retaining screw. Then rotate the upper choke lever to remove the choke rod from the slot in the lever.
  4.  
  5. Remove the choke rod from the lower lever inside the float bowl casting. Remove rod by holding lower lever outward with a small screwdriver and twisting the rod counterclockwise.
  6.  
  7. Remove the secondary metering rods by removing the small screw in the top of the metering rod hanger. Lift upward on the metering rod hanger until the secondary metering rods are completely out of the air horn.
  8.  
  9. Using a drift punch, drive the pump lever roll pin inward until pump lever can be removed from the air horn. Note position of the pump rod for later reassembly.
  10.  
  11. Remove the vacuum break "T" tube, if equipped.
  12.  
  13. Remove the nine air horn-to-bowl attaching screws; two countersunk screws are located next to the venturi. Remove the secondary air baffle deflector from beneath the two center air horn screws, where used.
  14.  
  15. Remove the air horn from the float bowl by lifting straight up. The air horn should remain on the float bowl for removal later.
  16.  
  17. Remove the front vacuum break hose. Then, remove the two attaching screws and remove the vacuum break and bracket assembly from the air valve dashpot rod and the dashpot rod from the air valve lever. Remove the pump plunger stem seal retainer by inverting the air horn and use a small screwdriver to remove the staking holding the seal retainer in place.
  18.  
  19. Remove the air horn gasket by lifting out of dowel locating pins and lifting tab of gasket from beneath the power piston hanger, being careful not to distort the springs holding the metering rods.
  20.  
  21. Remove the pump plunger and return spring from the pump well.
  22.  
  23. Remove the power piston and metering rods by depressing the piston and releasing it with a snap. This will cause the power piston to snap the piston up against the retainer. This procedure may have to be repeated several times. Do not remove the power piston by using pliers.
  24.  

Use special care not to distort the metering rods.

  1. Remove the plastic filler block over the float valve.
  2.  
  3. Remove the float assembly and float needle by pulling up on the retaining pin. Remove the seat and gasket using a seat remover.
  4.  
  5. Remove the aneroid cavity insert from the float bowl.
  6.  
  7. Remove the pump discharge check ball retainer and check ball.
  8.  
  9. Remove the pump well fill slot baffle.
  10.  
  11. Where used, remove the rear vacuum break hose. Remove the two attaching screws and rotate the assembly to remove the vacuum break rod from the slot in the plunger head.
  12.  
  13. Remove the vacuum break rod by holding down on the fast idle cam; move end of vacuum break rod away from the float bowl. Disengage the rod from the hole in the intermediate choke lever.
  14.  
  15. Support the float bowl and throttle body as an assembly on a suitable holding fixture. Carefully align a number 21 drill (0.159 in.) on the pop-type rivet head and drill enough to remove only the head. Then, use an drift and a small hammer to drive the remainder of the rivet out of the choke housing.
  16.  
  17. Remove the retainers, choke cover and gasket from the housing.
  18.  
  19. Remove the choke housing from the float bowl by removing the retaining screw from inside the housing. The complete choke hosing can then be pulled from the bowl. Remove the cup seal and plastic tube seal.
  20.  
  21. Remove the secondary throttle lock-out lever from the float bowl.
  22.  
  23. Remove the lower choke lever from inside the float bowl by inverting the bowl.
  24.  
  25. Remove the fuel inlet nut, gasket, check valve filter assembly and spring.
  26.  
  27. Remove the throttle body and gasket by removing the attaching screws.
  28.  

Reassembly:

Reassemble the carburetor by reversing disassembly. Use all new seals and gaskets. Note the following:

  1. If the idle mixture needles were removed, back them out 4 turns as a preliminary adjustment. Final adjustments should be performed by a qualified technician.
  2.  
  3. Using a holding tool, install the lower choke rod inner lever into the cavity in the float bowl and slide the intermediate choke shaft and housing into the lower choke rod inner lever. The intermediate choke shaft lever and fast idle cam are in the correct position when the tang on the lever is beneath the fast idle cam. Do not install the choke cover until the inside coil lever is adjusted.
  4.  
  5. Do not install the float needle pull clip into the holes in the float arm.
  6.  
  7. Do not force the air horn assembly onto the bowl; lower it carefully in place.
  8.  
  9. Install the air horn screws using the proper tightening sequence.
  10.  
  11. Perform all applicable adjustments.
  12.  



Click image to see an enlarged view

Fig. Fig. 17: Exploded view of all 4 BBL models



Click image to see an enlarged view

Fig. Fig. 18: M4ME and M4MC air horn tightening sequence

C-4 AND CCC
  1. Remove the idle speed solenoid and wide open throttle switch, if equipped.
  2.  
  3. Remove the upper choke lever from the end of the choke shaft by removing the retaining screw. Then rotate the upper choke lever to remove the choke rod from the slot in the lever.
  4.  
  5. Remove the choke rod from the lower lever inside the float bowl casting. Remove rod by holding lower lever outward with a small screwdriver and twisting the rod counterclockwise.
  6.  
  7. Remove the secondary metering rods by removing the small screw in the top of the metering rod hanger. Lift upward on the metering rod hanger until the secondary metering rods are completely out of the air horn.
  8.  
  9. Using a drift punch, drive the pump lever roll pin inward until pump lever can be removed from the air horn. Note position of the pump rod for later reassembly.
  10.  
  11. Remove the vacuum break "T" tube, if equipped.
  12.  
  13. Remove the eleven air horn-to-bowl attaching screws; two countersunk screws are located next to the venturi. Remove the secondary air baffle deflector from beneath the two center air horn screws, where used.
  14.  
  15. Remove the air horn from the float bowl by lifting straight up. The air horn should remain on the float bowl for removal later.
  16.  
  17. Remove the front vacuum break hose. Then, remove the two attaching screws and remove the vacuum break and bracket assembly from the air valve dashpot rod and the dashpot rod from the air valve lever. Remove the pump plunger stem and TPS seal retainers by inverting the air horn and use a small screwdriver to remove the staking holding the seal retainer in place.
  18.  
  19. Remove the solenoid-metering rod plunger by lifting it straight up.
  20.  
  21. Remove the rubber seal from around the mixture control solenoid plunger.
  22.  
  23. Remove the air horn gasket by lifting it off of the dowel locating pins on the float bowl.
  24.  
  25. Remove the pump plunger and return spring from the pump well.
  26.  
  27. Remove the TPS by pushing up on the bottom of the connector.
  28.  
  29. Remove the plastic filler block over the float valve.
  30.  
  31. Carefully lift each metering rod out of the guided metering jet, checking to make sure the return spring is removed with each metering rod.
  32.  

Use special care not to distort the metering rods.

  1. Remove the solenoid connector attaching screw.
  2.  
  3. Using a suitable tool on the upper end of the mixture control solenoid screw, turn the screw counterclockwise and remove it from the float bowl. Then, carefully lift the mixture control solenoid and connector assembly from the float bowl.
  4.  
  5. Remove the plastic insert from the cavity in the float bowl.
  6.  
  7. Remove the solenoid screw tension spring.
  8.  
  9. Remove the float assembly, then the seat and gasket using a seat remover.
  10.  
  11. Remove the large mixture control solenoid tension spring from the boss on the bottom of the float bowl.
  12.  
  13. Remove the pump discharge check ball retainer and check ball.
  14.  
  15. Remove the pump well fill slot baffle.
  16.  
  17. Where used, remove the rear vacuum break hose. Remove the two attaching screws and rotate the assembly to remove the vacuum break rod from the slot in the plunger head.
  18.  
  19. Remove the vacuum break rod by holding down on the fast idle cam; move end of vacuum break rod away from the float bowl. Disengage the rod from the hole in the intermediate choke lever.
  20.  
  21. Support the float bowl and throttle body as an assembly on a suitable holding fixture. Carefully align a number 21 drill (0.159 in.) on the pop-type rivet head and drill enough to remove only the head. Then, use an drift and a small hammer to drive the remainder of the rivet out of the choke housing.
  22.  
  23. Remove the retainers, choke cover and gasket from the housing.
  24.  
  25. Remove the choke housing from the float bowl by removing the retaining screw from inside the housing. The complete choke hosing can then be pulled from the bowl. Remove the cup seal and plastic tube seal.
  26.  
  27. Remove the secondary throttle lock-out lever from the float bowl.
  28.  
  29. Remove the lower choke lever from inside the float bowl by inverting the bowl.
  30.  
  31. Remove the fuel inlet nut, gasket, check valve filter assembly and spring.
  32.  
  33. Remove the throttle body and gasket by removing the attaching screws.
  34.  

Reassembly:

Reassemble the carburetor by reversing disassembly. Use all new seals and gaskets. Note the following:

  1. If the idle mixture needles were removed, back them out 3 turns as a preliminary adjustment. Final adjustments should be performed by a qualified technician.
  2.  
  3. Using a holding tool, install the lower choke rod inner lever into the cavity in the float bowl and slide the intermediate choke shaft and housing into the lower choke rod inner lever. The intermediate choke shaft lever and fast idle cam are in the correct position when the tang on the lever is beneath the fast idle cam. Do not install the choke cover until the inside coil lever is adjusted.
  4.  
  5. Do not install the float needle pull clip into the holes in the float arm.
  6.  
  7. Turn the mixture control screw clockwise until it is bottomed lightly in the bowl. Turn the screw counterclockwise 4 turns. Final adjustments should be performed by a qualified technician.
  8.  
  9. Do not force the air horn assembly onto the bowl; lower it carefully in place while holding down on pump plunger assembly. Also take care not to pinch the TPS connector wires between the air horn and the float bowl.
  10.  
  11. Install the air horn screws using the proper tightening sequence.
  12.  
  13. Perform all applicable adjustments.
  14.  



Click image to see an enlarged view

Fig. Fig. 19: E4ME and E4MC air horn tightening sequence

 
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