REMOVAL & INSTALLATION
Rear Wheel Drive Models
See Figures 1, 2, 3, 4 and 5
- Disconnect the negative battery cable.
- Raise the car and make sure it is supported securely.
- Disconnect the transmission linkage by removing the one nut from the shaft on the left side of the transmission.
- Remove the speedometer drive cable.
- Disconnect and cap the oil cooler pipes at the transmission. Plug the connector holes in the transmission.
- Disconnect the vacuum modulator hose.
- Remove the driveshaft.
- Remove the lower flex plate housing cover.
- Remove the three converter to flex plate attaching bolts. Rotate the converter and flexplate until the bolts can be reached for removal. A bolt in the end of the crankshaft balancer can be used to rotate the flexplate.
Do not pry on the flexplate ring gear or transmission case to rotate converter, as flexplate or case may be damaged.
- Place a jack or other suitable device under the rear of the engine.
- Remove the two nuts from the tunnel strap and remove the strap.
- Remove the two rear engine mount to extension housing bolts.
- Position a transmission jack under the transmission and raise just enough to take the load off the rear engine support, then remove the shim.
- Remove the four bolts from the rear engine support and swivel the support out of the way. Allow the support to hang by the parking brake cable.
- Disconnect the exhaust pipe from the exhaust manifold and remove the rear engine support cross member.
- Remove the six transmission case to engine attaching bolts. If necessary lower the engine and transmission slightly to gain access to the upper attaching bolts.
- Move the transmission towards the rear of the car, disengaging the transmission from the engine.
- The converter weighs about 50 pounds. To prevent it from falling out and getting damaged, install a converter holding clamp Tool No. J-21366 on the front of the transmission case, and lower the transmission from the car.
- Install the converter on the turbine shaft making certain that the converter drive hub is fully engaged with the pump gear tangs, and install the converter holding clamp on the front of the transmission case.
- Align the front of the transmission case dowel holes with the dowels on the engine. Install the six transmission case to engine attaching bolts and tighten the bolts to 35 ft. lbs. (47 Nm).
- Rotate the converter until two of the three weld nuts on the converter line up with the bolt holes in the flexplate.
Make certain the converter rotates freely in this position and is not cocked and that the pilot in the center of the converter is properly seated in the crankshaft.
- Install the two flexplate to converter attaching bolts through the accessible holes in the flexplate and finger-tighten.
The bolts must not be tightened at this time to assure proper alignment of the converter.
- Rotate the converter and install the third attaching bolt. Tighten all bolts to 35 ft. lbs. (47 Nm).
- Lower the transmission carefully and install the two rear engine mount to extension housing bolts. Tighten the bolts to 55 ft. lbs. (75 Nm).
- Install the exhaust pipe, rear engine support cross member and the tunnel strap.
- The remainder of the installation is the reverse of removal. Add transmission fluid as required.
See Figure 6
- Open hood and disconnect negative battery cable (two cables on diesels).
- Disconnect the speedometer cable at the transmission. Remove transmission oil dipstick tube.
- Remove the air cleaner.
- Disconnect the transmission throttle valve (TV/detent) cable at its upper end. Disconnect the linkage by removing one nut from shaft on left side of transmission, if so equipped.
- Safely support the engine unit from underneath, or install an engine holding fixture between the cowl and radiator support.
- Remove the top and two upper left final drive to transmission bolts.
- Remove the remaining accessible engine-to-transmission bolts (5).
- Jack up the car and safely support it with jackstands.
- Remove the starter assembly.
- Disconnect the transmission converter clutch connector.
- Disconnect the transmission oil cooler lines and plug the openings.
- Remove the flywheel inspection cover (loosen top left bolt). Matchmark the flywheel-to-converter relationship for later assembly.
- Disconnect the exhaust Y-pipe connection to the left exhaust pipe at the manifold. On gasoline cars, disconnect the catalytic converter hanger bolts (2). On all, lower the exhaust system about 5 inches and support the system.
- Remove the four bolts holding the second frame crossmember.
- Position a hydraulic floor jack underneath the transmission, with a wooden block on the jack pad to protect the transmission case. Jack up the transmission slightly.
- Remove the three remaining final drive to transmission bolts.
- Remove the converter-to-flywheel bolts.
- Disconnect the shift linkage at the transmissions.
- Remove the final drive support bracket bolt.
- Remove the right transmission mount (through-bolt and three bracket bolts).
- Remove the left transmission mount through-bolt. Remove the lower bracket-to-transmission bolt. Raise the transmission assembly about 2 inches for access to the two remaining upper bracket-to-transmission bolts. Remove the remaining transmission-to-engine bolt.
- Carefully lower the transmission unit while disengaging the final drive.
- Install a C-clamp or converter holding clamp in front of the torque converter (attached to the bell housing) to hold the converter in place. Remove the transmission from the car.
- Install the transmission in the vehicle.
- Reverse all the removal procedures.
- Always replace the final drive-to-transmission gasket. Use care when engaging the final drive-to-transmission splines. Make sure the final drive-to-transmission mounting faces are in alignment with each other. After the splines are engaged, loosely install the two final drive-to-transmission lower attaching bolts. You can save time here by installing two engine-to-transmission bolts from above first to aid alignment.
After the final drive and transmission are mated align the transmission with the engine and install the remaining attaching bolts. Before the flywheel-to-converter bolts, make sure the weld nuts on the converter are flush with the flywheel and that the converter rotates freely by hand in this position. Then hand-start all three bolts and tighten finger-tight. This will insure proper converter alignment. Torque the transmission-to-engine bolts to 35 ft. lbs. (47 Nm), the final drive-to-transmission bolts to 30 ft. lbs. (41 Nm), and the final drive support bracket to final drive bolts to 35 ft. lbs. (47 Nm).
See Figure 7
- Disconnect the negative battery cable.
- Remove the air cleaner assembly.
- Tag and disconnect the throttle valve (TV) cable at the transmission end and position it out of the way.
- Disconnect and remove the cruise control servo and bracket assembly.
- Tag and disconnect all electrical leads at the distributor, the oil pressure sending unit end at the transmission.
- Remove the engine oil cooler line bracket. Wire the oil lines in their position so they do not become bent during transmission removal.
- Disconnect the shift linkage bracket at the transmission. Disconnect the manual shift lever from the manual shaft. You needn't remove the cable from the lever or the bracket.
- Remove the vacuum modulator.
- Remove the TV cable support bracket and the engine oil cooler line bracket.
- Remove the four bell housing-to-engine bolts in positions 2, 3, 4 and 5.
- Disconnect the A.I.R. crossover pipe fitting and position it out of the way. Remove the radiator hose bracket.
- Remove the transmission mount-to-bracket nuts.
- Install an engine hoist to the engine lifting hooks and take the slack out so that the engine will be supported by the hoist.
- Raise the front of the vehicle and support it on safety stands. Remove the front wheels.
- Remove the right and left stabilizer link bolts and ball joint cotter pins and nuts. Separate both ball joints from the steering knuckles.
- Remove the A/C splash shield. Remove the No. 1 cradle insulator mount cover.
- Remove the hose connections and the rear mounting clip from the A.I.R. pipe end.
- Tag and disconnect the vacuum hoses and wiring loom from the front of the engine cradle.
- Remove the engine mount and dampener-to-engine cradle attachments, the transmission mount-to-engine cradle attachments and the wiring loom clip-to-transmission mount bracket.
- Lower the vehicle.
- Raise the transmission about 2 inches from the original position by means of the two left support hooks.
- Raise the vehicle.
- Remove the right front and left rear cradle-to-cradle bolts. Remove the left stabilizer mounting bolts.
- Remove the No. 1 cradle mount insulator bolt and then remove the left cradle member.
When removing the left cradle member, separate the right front cover first.
- Remove the A.I.R. management valve and bracket assembly from the transmission mount bracket, then reposition the bracket-to-transmission stud bolts.
- Lower the vehicle, then lower the transmission to its original position.
- Remove the transmission mounting bracket and then raise the vehicle again.
- Remove the right rear transmission mount-to-bracket and the engine-to-transmission brace bolts into the transmission. Disconnect the VSS connector.
- Remove the flywheel covers and the torque converter bolts.
- Position a transmission jack under the transmission to support it and then remove the remaining bell housing bolts.
When removing or installing the No. 6 bell housing bolt, it is necessary to use a 3 in. (76mm) long socket wrench extension to gain access to the bolt through the right side wheel housing.
- Disconnect and plug the oil cooler lines at the transmission.
- Install drive axle boot seal protectors, then separate the halfshafts from the transmission and wire them out of the way.
- Remove the transmission assembly.
- Position the transmission and then install the lower bell housing bolts. Tighten all bolts and/or studs to 55 ft. lbs. (74 Nm).
When referring to the illustration, positions No. 2, 3 & 4 are studs. Positions No. 1, 5 & 6 are bolts (the bolt in position No. 6 is slightly longer than those in 1 and 5).
- Install the converter-to-flexplate bolts and tighten them to 46 ft. lbs. (63 Nm).
- Install the flexplate splash shield and then attach and cooler lines to the transmission case. Tighten the cooler line fitting nuts to 15 ft. lbs. (21 Nm).
Installation of the remaining components is in the reverse order of removal. Please note the following points:
- Tighten the No. 1 insulator mount bolt to 74 ft. lbs. (100 Nm).
- Tighten all cradle-to-cradle mounting nuts to 74 ft. lbs. (100 Nm).
- Tighten the upper transaxle mounting bracket stud bolts to 74 ft. lbs. (100 Nm).
- Tighten the side transaxle mounting bracket stud bolts to 50 ft. lbs. (70 Nm).
- Tighten the rear (left) transaxle mounting nuts to 35 ft. lbs. (45 Nm).
- Tighten the engine mount-to-cradle attachments to 35 ft. lbs. (45 Nm).
- Tighten the right rear mounting bracket-to-transaxle mounting bolts to 50 ft. lbs. (70 Nm).
- Tighten the right rear mounting bracket nuts to 35 ft. lbs. (45 Nm).
- Tighten the stabilizer mounting bolts to 38 ft. lbs. (50 Nm).
- Tighten the stabilizer link bolts to 13 ft. lbs. (17 Nm).
- Tighten the ball joint nuts to 81 ft. lbs. (110 Nm).
- Tighten the shift cable bracket-to-transaxle bolt to 18 ft. lbs. (24 Nm).
- Check the transaxle fluid level.
- Adjust the shift linkage and TV cable as previously described in this section.