See Figures 1, 2, 3, 4, 5, 6, 7, 8, 9 and 10
- Remove the front brake caliper.
- Remove the hub and outer bearing assembly.
- Carefully pry the seal from the hub, then remove the inner bearing assembly.
- If necessary, remove the outer bearing brace.
- Wash all parts in clean solvent and either blow dry with compressed air or let air dry. Check bearings for cracked cages and worn or pitted rollers. Check the bearing races for cracks, scores, or brinelling.
- To install the new bearings, drive or press the outer braces into the hub (if removed). A large socket (preferably one that's already beat up) can be used with a rubber hammer to drive the bearing in place.
- Thoroughly clean the hub and spindle with clean solvent.
- Apply a thin wipe of quality, high temperature wheel bearing grease to the spindle at the outer bearing seat, along with the inner bearing seat, shoulder and seal seat.
- Apply a small wipe of grease inboard of each bearing cup in the hub. Pack the bearing cone and roller assemblies full of grease by hand, working the grease thoroughly into the bearings between the rollers, cone, and cage.
- Place the inner bearing cone and roller assembly in the hub. Then, using your finger, put an additional wipe of grease outboard on the bearing.
- Install a new grease seal, using a flat place to seat the seal flush, into the hub. Lubricate the seal lip with a thin layer of grease.
- Carefully install the hub and rotor assembly. Place the outer bearing cone and roller assembly in the outer bearing cup. Install the washer and nut. Initially tighten the nut to 12 ft. lbs. (16 Nm) while turning the wheel assembly forward by hand. Put another wipe of grease outboard of the bearing. This will give the bearings extra grease.
- Install the brake caliper, then the wheel assembly.
Tapered Roller Bearings
The proper functioning of the front suspension cannot be maintained unless the front wheel tapered roller bearings are correctly adjusted. Cones must be a slip fit on the spindle and the inside diameter of cones should be lubricated to insure that the cones will creep. Spindle nut must be a free-running fit on threads.
- Remove cotter pin from spindle and spindle nut.
- Tighten the spindle nut to 12 ft. lbs. (16 Nm) while turning the wheel assembly forward by hand to fully seat the bearings. This will remove any grease or burrs which could cause excessive wheel bearing plate later.
- Back off the nut to the just loose position.
- Hand tighten the spindle nut. Loosen spindle nut until either hole in the spindle lines up with a slot in the nut (not more than 1 / 2 flat).
- Install new cotter pin. Bend the ends of the cotter pin against nut. Cut off extra length to ensure ends will not interfere with the dust cap.
- Measure the looseness in the hub assembly. There will be from 0.001-0.005 in. (0.025-0.130mm) end play when properly adjusted.
- Install dust cap on hub.
Bolt-On Type Bearings
Most 1981 and later models have front and rear sealed wheel bearings. The bearings are pre-adjusted and require no lubrication maintenance or adjustment. There are darkened areas on the bearing assembly. These darkened areas are from a heat treatment process and do not indicate a need for bearing replacement.
Clean the wheel bearings thoroughly with solvent and check their condition before installation.
Apply a sizable daub of lubricant to the palm of one hand. Using your other hand, work the bearing into the lubricant so that the grease is pushed through the rollers and out the other side. Keep rotating the bearing while continuing to push the lubricant through it.