GM Camaro 1967-1981 Repair Guide

Linkage

Print

INSPECTION



See Figure 1

Click image to see an enlarged view

Fig. Fig. 1: Exploded view of the clutch pedal upper and lower linkage

A clutch may have all the symptoms of going bad when the real trouble lies in the linkage. To avoid the unnecessary replacement of a clutch, make the following linkage checks:

  1. Start the engine and depress the clutch pedal until it is about 1 / 2 in. from the floor mat and move the shift lever between first and reverse (first and second on a four-speed) several times. If this can be done smoothly without any grinding, the clutch is releasing fully. If the shifting is not smooth, the clutch is not releasing fully and adjustment is necessary.
  2.  
  3. Check the condition of the clutch pedal bushings for signs of sticking or excessive wear.
  4.  
  5. Check the throwout bearing fork for proper installation on the ball stud. The fork could possibly be pulled off the ball if not properly lubricated.
  6.  
  7. Check the cross-shaft levers for distortion or damage.
  8.  
  9. Check the car for loose or damaged motor mounts. Bad motor mounts can cause the engine to shift under acceleration and bind the clutch linkage at the cross-shaft. There must be some clearance between the cross-shaft and motor mount.
  10.  
  11. Check the throwout bearing clearance between the clutch spring fingers and the front bearing retainer on the transmission. If there is no clearance, the fork may be improperly installed on the ball stud or the clutch disc may be worn out.
  12.  

ADJUSTMENT



Only one adjustment is necessary to compensate for all normal clutch wear. Depress the clutch pedal and slowly release it. If adjusted correctly, the throwout bearing should begin to disengage the clutch diaphragm spring levers when the top of the pedal pad is 1-1 1 / 8 in. from the floor mat. The car should begin to move forward. If clutch engagement begins at a point noticeably greater than 1 1 / 8 in. from the floor mat or less than 1 in. from the floor mat, this free-play measurement must be adjusted as follows:

1967-69 Models

  1. Disconnect the pedal return spring at the fork.
  2.  
  3. Hold the clutch pedal against the rubber stop and loosen the locknut.
  4.  
  5. Turn the adjusting rod out and against clutch fork until the throwout bearing lightly contacts the pressure plate fingers.
  6.  
  7. Turn the rod into the swivel three times and tighten the locknut.
  8.  
  9. Install the clutch spring and check pedal free-play (1-1 1 / 8 in.).
  10.  

1970-81 Models

See Figure 2



Click image to see an enlarged view

Fig. Fig. 2: Clutch pedal free-play adjusting points-the gauge hole is present only on 1970-81 models

The clutch on these models can be adjusted as with the 1967-69 models, or by this alternate procedure:

  1. Disconnect the return spring at the clutch fork.
  2.  
  3. Hold the pedal against the rubber bumper on the dash brace.
  4.  
  5. Push the clutch fork so the throwout bearing lightly contacts the pressure plate fingers.
  6.  
  7. Loosen the locknut and adjust the length of the rod so that the swivel or rod can slip freely into the gauge hole in the lever. Increase the length of the rod until all free-play is removed.
  8.  
  9. Remove the rod or swivel from the gauge hole and insert it in the lower hole on the lever. Install the retainer and tighten the locknut.
  10.  
  11. Install the return spring and check free-play measurement from the floor mat to the top of the pedal pad. It should measure 1 1 / 8 -1 3 / 8 in. 1967-74; 3 / 4 -1 1 / 2 in. 1975-76; 1-1 1 / 2 in. 1977; 55 / 64 -1 29 / 64 in. 1978-81.
  12.  

REMOVAL



See Figures 3 through 11

Click image to see an enlarged view

Fig. Fig. 3: Exploded view of the clutch, pressure plate and driven disc mounting-small block V8 engine shown, other engines



Click image to see an enlarged view

Fig. Fig. 4: Typical clutch alignment tool, note how the splines match the transmission's input shaft



Click image to see an enlarged view

Fig. Fig. 5: Loosen and remove the clutch and pressure plate bolts evenly, a little at a time ...



Click image to see an enlarged view

Fig. Fig. 6: ... then carefully remove the clutch and pressure plate assembly from the flywheel



Click image to see an enlarged view

Fig. Fig. 7: Check across the flywheel surface, it should be flat



Click image to see an enlarged view

Fig. Fig. 8: If necessary, lock the flywheel in place and remove the retaining bolts ...



Click image to see an enlarged view

Fig. Fig. 9: ... then remove the flywheel from the crankshaft in order replace it or have it machined



Click image to see an enlarged view

Fig. Fig. 10: Upon installation, it is usually a good idea to apply a thread-locking compound to the flywheel bolts



Click image to see an enlarged view

Fig. Fig. 11: Check the pressure plate for excessive wear

  1. Support engine and remove the transmission.
  2.  
  3. Disconnect the clutch fork pushrod and spring.
  4.  
  5. Remove the flywheel housing.
  6.  
  7. Slide the clutch fork from the ball stud and remove the fork from the dust boot. The ball stud is threaded into the clutch housing and may be replaced, if necessary.
  8.  
  9. Install an alignment tool to support the clutch assembly during removal. Mark the flywheel and clutch cover for reinstallation, if they do not already have "X" marks.
  10.  
  11. Loosen the clutch-to-flywheel attaching bolts evenly, one turn at a time, until spring pressure is released. Remove the bolts and clutch assembly.
  12.  

INSTALLATION



See Figures 12 through 17

Click image to see an enlarged view

Fig. Fig. 12: Be sure that the flywheel surface is clean, before installing the clutch



Click image to see an enlarged view

Fig. Fig. 13: Install a clutch alignment arbor, to align the clutch assembly during installation



Click image to see an enlarged view

Fig. Fig. 14: Clutch plate installed with the arbor in place



Click image to see an enlarged view

Fig. Fig. 15: Pressure plate-to-flywheel bolt holes should align



Click image to see an enlarged view

Fig. Fig. 16: You may want to use a thread locking compound on the clutch assembly bolts



Click image to see an enlarged view

Fig. Fig. 17: Before installing the clutch release bearing, make sure that it is lubricated in the places indicated

  1. Clean the pressure plate and flywheel face.
  2.  
  3. Support the clutch disc and pressure plate with an alignment tool. The driven disc is installed with the damper springs on the transmission side. On some 1967 6-cylinder engines, the clutch disc is installed in a reverse manner with the damper springs to the flywheel side.
  4.  
  5. Turn the clutch assembly until the mark on the cover lines up with the mark on the flywheel, then install the bolts. Tighten down evenly and gradually to avoid distortion.
  6.  
  7. Remove the alignment tool.
  8.  
  9. Lubricate the ball socket and fork fingers at the release bearing end with high melting-point grease. Lubricate the recess on the inside of the throwout bearing and throwout fork groove with a light coat of graphite grease.
  10.  
  11. Install the clutch fork and dust boot into the housing. Install the throwout bearing to the throwout fork. Install the flywheel housing. Install the transmission.
  12.  
  13. Connect the fork pushrod and spring. Lubricate the spring and pushrod ends.
  14.  
  15. Adjust the shift linkage and clutch pedal free-play.
  16.  

 
label.common.footer.alt.autozoneLogo