ENGINE OIL & FILTER
See Figures 1 through 11
The oil should be changed every four months or 6,000 miles on all 1967-74 Camaros. On 1975-78 models, the interval is six months or 7,500 miles. 1979 and later models increased the time interval to 12 months while keeping the mileage (7,500) the same. Make sure that you change the oil based on whichever interval comes first.
The oil drain plug is located on the bottom of the oil pan (bottom of the engine, underneath the car). The oil filter is located on the right side of the inline six cylinder engine and on the left side of all other engines.
The mileage figures given are the Chevrolet recommended intervals assuming normal driving and conditions. If your car is used under dusty, polluted or off-road conditions, change the oil and filter more often than specified. The same goes for cars driven in stop-and-go traffic or only for short distances at a time. Always drain the engine oil after the engine has been running long enough to bring it up to normal operating temperature. Hot oil will flow easier and more contaminants will be removed along with the oil than if it were drained cold. To change the oil and filter:
- Run the engine until it reaches normal operating temperature.
- Jack up the front of the car and support it on safety stands.
- Slide a drain pan of at least 6 quarts capacity under the oil pan.
- Loosen the drain plug. Turn the plug out by hand. By keeping an inward pressure on the plug as you unscrew it, oil won't escape past the threads and you can remove it without being burned by hot oil.
- Allow the oil to drain completely, then install the drain plug. Don't overtighten the plug, or you'll be buying a new pan or a trick replacement plug for stripped threads.
- Using a strap wrench, remove the oil filter. Keep in mind that it's holding about one quart of dirty, hot oil.
- Empty the old filter into the drain pan and dispose of the filter.
- Using a clean rag, wipe off the filter adapter on the engine block. Be sure that the rag doesn't leave any lint which could clog an oil passage.
- Coat the rubber gasket on the filter with fresh oil. Spin it onto the engine [cf2]by hand; when the gasket touches the adapter surface give it another 1 / 2 - 3 / 4 turn. No more, or you'll squash the gasket and it will leak.
- Refill the engine with the correct amount of fresh oil. See the "Capacities" chart.
- Check the oil level on the dipstick. It is normal for the level to be a bit above the full mark. Start the engine and allow it to idle for a few minutes.
- Shut off the engine, allow the oil to drain for a minute, and check the oil level. Check around the filter and drain plug for any leaks, and correct as necessary.
There is no recommended interval for the manual transmission but it is always a good idea to change the fluid if you have purchased the car used, or if it has been driven in water high enough to reach the axles.
- The oil must be hot before it is drained. Drive the car until the engine reaches normal operating temperature.
- Remove the filler plug to provide a vent.
- Place a large container underneath the transmission and remove the drain plug.
- Allow the oil to drain completely. Clean off the drain plug and install it; tighten it until it is just snug.
- Fill the transmission with the proper lubricant as detailed earlier in this section. Refer to the "Capacities" chart for the correct amount of lubricant.
- When the oil level is up to the edge of the filler hole, install the filler plug. Drive the car for a few minutes, stop, and check for any leaks.
See Figures 12 through 19
The fluid should be changed with the transmission warm. A 20 minute drive at highway speeds should accomplish this.
- Raise and support the vehicle, preferably in a level attitude.
- With Turbo Hydra-Matic 250 or 350, support the transmission and remove the support crossmember.
- Place a large pan under the transmission pan. Remove all the front and side pan bolts. Loosen the rear bolts about four turns.
- Pry the pan loose and let it drain.
- Remove the pan and gasket. Clean the pan thoroughly with solvent and air dry it. Be very careful not to get any lint from rags in the pan.
- Remove the strainer to valve body screws, the strainer, and the gasket. Most 350 transmissions will have a throw-away filter instead of a strainer. On the 400 transmission, remove the filter retaining bolt, filter, and intake pipe O-ring.
- If there is a strainer, clean it in solvent and air dry.
- Install the new filter or cleaned strainer with a new gasket. Tighten the screws to 12 ft. lbs. On the 400, install a new intake pipe O-ring and a new filter, tightening the retaining bolt to 10 ft. lbs.
- Install the pan with a new gasket. Tighten the bolts evenly to 12 ft. lbs. (8 for Powerglide and Torque Drive).
- Lower the car and add the proper amount of DEXRON® or DEXRON® II automatic transmission fluid through the dipstick tube.
- Start the engine in Park and let it idle. Do not race the engine. Shift into each shift lever position, shift back into Park, and check the fluid level on the dipstick. The level should be 1 / 4 in. below ADD. Be very careful not to overfill. Recheck the level after the car has been driven long enough to thoroughly warm up the transmission. Add fluid as necessary. The level should then be at FULL.
There is no recommended change interval for the rear axle but it is always a good idea to change the fluid if you have purchased the car used, or if it has been driven in water high enough to reach the axle.
- Park the car on a level surface and set the parking brake.
- Remove the filler plug.
- Place a large container underneath the rear axle.
- Unscrew the retaining bolts and remove the rear cover. This will allow the lubricant to drain out into the container.
- Install the rear cover using a new gasket and sealant. Tighten the retaining bolts in a crosswise pattern.
- Refill with the proper grade and quantity of lubricant as detailed earlier in this section. Replace the filler plug, run the car and check for any leaks.
The cooling system should be drained, thoroughly flushed, then refilled at least every 30,000 miles. This should be done with the engine cold.
- Remove the radiator cap and the expansion tank cap (if so equipped).
- With the caps removed, run the engine until the upper radiator hose is hot. This means that the thermostat is open and the coolant is flowing through the system.
- Turn off the engine, place a large container underneath the radiator and open the drain valve at the bottom of the radiator.
Drainage may be speeded by removing the drain plugs on the sides of the cylinder block.
- Close the drain valve and add water until the system is filled.
- Repeat Steps 3 and 4 several times until the drained liquid is nearly colorless.
- Tighten the drain valve, then fill the radiator with a 50/50 mixture of ethylene glycol and water.
- With the radiator cap still removed, run the engine until the upper radiator hose is hot. Add coolant if necessary, replace the caps and check for any leaks.