GM Celebrity/Century/Ciera/6000 1982-1996 Repair Guide

Carburetor

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See Figures 1 and 2

The Rochester E2SE is used on most 1982 and later A-body cars. It is a two barrel, two stage carburetor of downdraft design used in conjunction with the Computer Command Control system of fuel control. The carburetor has special design features for optimum air/fuel mixture control during all ranges of engine operation. In 1982 there was also the E2ME carburetor, it is a two barrel, single stage design carburetor.

A triple venturi arrangement with plain tube nozzle is used in each bore which results in precise fuel metering control during the off idle and part of the throttle ranges of the engine operation. The E2ME also uses the Computer Command Control system of fuel control. Like the E2SE the E2ME carburetor has special design features for optimum air/fuel mixture control during all periods of engine operation. All Rochester carburetors consist of 3 major assemblies: the air horn, the float bowl and the throttle body. They have 6 basic operating systems: float, idle, main metering, power, pump and choke.

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Fig. Fig. 1: Rochester E2SE carburetor assembly on the vehicle



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Fig. Fig. 2: Rochester E2SE carburetor part locations

MODEL IDENTIFICATION



See Figure 3

General Motors Rochester carburetors are identified by their model code. The carburetor model identification number is stamped vertically on the float bowl, near the secondary throttle lever. The letters in the model name describe the specific features of the carburetor. For example: The first letter "E" indicates the carburetor is Electronically controlled. The second and third digits, "2S" indicates the carburetor is a member of the Varajet family. The last digit "E" indicates an integral Electric choke. The identification code is stamped on the float bowl.



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Fig. Fig. 3: The identification code is stamped on the float bowl

ADJUSTMENTS



Fast Idle

See Figure 4

  1. Position the transaxle in the Park or Neutral position.
  2.  
  3. Set the ignition timing and curb idle speed, and disconnect and plug hoses as directed on the emission control decal.
  4.  



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Fig. Fig. 4: Fast idle adjustment for the E2SE carburetor

  1. Place the fast idle screw on the highest step of the cam, or what is specified on the emissions label.
  2.  
  3. Start the engine and adjust the engine speed to specification with the fast idle screw.
  4.  

Choke Valve Angle Gauge

See Figure 5

  1. Attach the angle gauge magnet to the closed valve.
  2.  
  3. Rotator the degree scale until zero is opposite the pointer.
  4.  



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Fig. Fig. 5: A choke valve angle gauge is used often in adjustments

  1. Center the leveling bubble, then rotate the scale to the specified angle.
  2.  
  3. Open the choke valve.
  4.  
  5. Adjust the linkage if the bubble is not recentered.
  6.  

Float
1982-84 MODELS

See Figure 6

  1. Remove the air horn from the throttle body.
  2.  



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Fig. Fig. 6: Float adjustment - 1982-84 models

  1. Use your fingers to hold the retainer in place, and to push the float down into light contact with the needle.
  2.  
  3. Measure the distance from the toe of the float (furthest from the hinge) to the top of the carburetor (gasket removed).
  4.  
  5. To adjust, remove the float and gently bend the arm to specification. After adjustment, check the float alignment in the chamber.
  6.  

1985-86 MODELS

See Figure 7

  1. Remove the air horn, horn gasket, and upper float bowl insert.
  2.  
  3. Attach special tool J-34817-1 to the float bowl.
  4.  
  5. Place the J-34817-3 in the base of the carburetor, with the contact pin resting on the outer edge of the float lever.
  6.  
  7. Measure the distance from the top of the casting to the top of the float, at the point farthest from the float hinge, use tool J-9789-90.
  8.  



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Fig. Fig. 7: Float adjustment - 1985-86 models

  1. If the gap is 2 / 32 in. (1.59mm) or more different than specification (larger or smaller), use tool J-34817-20 to bend the lever up or down. Remove the bending tool, then measure repeating until it is within specification.
  2.  
  3. Check the float alignment, then reassemble the carburetor.
  4.  

Pre-set Procedure
  1. Remove the carburetor from the engine to gain access to the plug covering the idle mixture needle. Remove the plug, turn the mixture needle in until lightly seated and back out 4 turns.
  2.  
  3. If the plug in the air horn covering the idle air bleed has been removed, replace the air horn. If the plug is still in place, do not remove it.
  4.  
  5. Remove the vent stack screen assembly to gain access to the lean mixture screw. Be sure to reinstall the vent stack screen assembly after adjustment.
  6.  
  7. Using a special tool J-28696-10 or equivalent, turn the mixture screw in until it lightly bottoms, then back out 2 1 / 2 turns.
  8.  
  9. Reinstall the carburetor on the engine.
    1. Do not install the air cleaner and gasket.
    2.  
    3. Disconnect the bowl vent line at the carburetor.
    4.  
    5. Disconnect the EGR valve hose and the canister purge hose at the carburetor, and cap the ports.
    6.  
    7. Locate hose on port "D" on the emissions label to the temperature sensor and secondary vacuum break TVS. Disconnect the hose at the sensor on the air cleaner, then plug the open hose.
    8.  
    9. Connect the positive lead of the dwell meter to the mixture control solenoid test lead (green). Connect the other meter lead to ground. Set the dwell meter to 6-cylinder position. Connect the tachometer to distributor lead (brown). The tachometer should be connected to the distributor side of the tach filter if the vehicle has a tachometer.
    10.  

  10.  
  11. Block the drive wheels.
  12.  
  13. Place the vehicle in PARK (automatic transaxles) or NEUTRAL (manual transaxles), then set the Parking brake.
  14.  
  15. Proceed to the mixture adjustment procedure.
  16.  

Mixture Adjustment
  1. Preform the carburetor pre-set procedure.
  2.  
  3. Run the engine on high step of the fast idle cam. until the engine cooling fan starts to cycle.
  4.  
  5. Run the engine at 3,000 rpm and adjust the lean mixture screw slowly in small increments allowing time for dwell to stabilize after turning the screw to obtain an average dwell of 35°. If the dwell is too low, back the screw out, if too high, turn it in. If you are unable to adjust it to specifications, inspect the main metering circuit for leaks or restrictions.
  6.  
  7. Return to idle.
  8.  
  9. Adjust the mixture screw to obtain the average dwell of 25° with the cooling fan in the off cycle. If the reading is too low, back the screw out. If the reading is too high, turn it in. Allow time for reading to stabilize after each adjustment. Adjustment is very sensitive. Make a final check with the adjusting tool removed.
  10.  
  11. If you are unable to adjust to specifications, inspect the idle system for leaks, or restrictions.
  12.  
  13. Disconnect the mixture control solenoid when the cooling fan is in the off cycle, then check for an rpm change of at least 50 rpm. If the rpm does not change enough, inspect the idle air bleed circuit for restrictions or leaks.
  14.  
  15. Run the engine at 3,000 rpm for a few moments, then note the dwell reading. Dwell should be varying with the average reading of 35°.
  16.  
  17. If the 35° is not the average dwell, reset the lean mixture screw per step 3. Then reset the idle mixture screw to obtain a 25° dwell per steps 5 and 6.
  18.  
  19. If you have an average dwell, reconnect the systems disconnected (purge and vent hoses, EGR valve etc.), then reinstall the vent screen and set the idle speed.
  20.  

Pump

The E2ME and the E2SE carburetors have a non-adjustable pump lever. No adjustments are either necessary or possible.

Choke Unloader

See Figure 8

  1. Connect a rubber band to the intermediate choke lever, then open the throttle valve to allow the choke valve to close.
  2.  



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Fig. Fig. 8: The choke unloader adjustment can be made by following these steps

  1. Set up the angle gauge and the angle to specifications.
  2.  
  3. Position the fast idle screw on the second step of the fast idle cam (against the rise of the high step).
  4.  
  5. Turn the choke lever shaft to open the choke valve and make contact with the black closing tang.
  6.  
  7. Hold the primary throttle wide open.
  8.  
  9. If the engine is warm, close the choke valve by pushing in on the intermediate choke lever.
  10.  
  11. Bend the unloader tang until the bubble is centered.
  12.  

Choke Coil Lever

See Figure 9

  1. Remove the three retaining screws and remove the choke cover and coil. On models with a riveted choke cover, drill out the three rivets and remove the cover and choke coil.
  2.  



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Fig. Fig. 9: The choke coil lever adjustment varies slightly on older models; you may need to drill out the rivets holding the cover - E2SE shown

A choke stat cover retainer kit is required for reassembly.

  1. Place the fast idle screw on the high step of the cam.
  2.  
  3. Close the choke by pushing in on the intermediate choke lever.
  4.  
  5. Insert a drill or gauge of the specified size into the hole in the choke housing. The choke lever in the housing should be up against the side of the gauge.
  6.  
  7. If the lever does not just touch the gauge, bend the intermediate choke rod to adjust.
  8.  

Fast Idle Cam-Choke Rod

See Figure 10

A special angle gauge should be used. If it is not available, an inch (millimeter) measurement can be made.

  1. Adjust the choke coil lever and fast idle first.
  2.  



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Fig. Fig. 10: Fast idle cam choke rod relation

  1. Rotate the degree scale until it is zeroed.
  2.  
  3. Close the choke and install the degree scale onto the choke plate. Center the leveling bubble.
  4.  
  5. Rotate the scale so that the specified degree is opposite the scale pointer.
  6.  
  7. Place the fast idle screw on the second step of the cam (against the high step). Close the choke by pushing in the intermediate lever.
  8.  
  9. Bend the fast idle cam rod at the U to adjust the angle to specifications.
  10.  

Air Valve Rod

See Figure 11

  1. Close the air valve.
  2.  
  3. Insert the specified gauge between the rod and the end of the slot in the plunger.
  4.  
  5. Seat the vacuum diaphragm with an outside vacuum source. Tape over the purge bleed hole if present.
  6.  



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Fig. Fig. 11: Air valve rod adjustment

  1. Rotate the air valve in the direction of the open air valve by applying a light pressure to the air valve shaft.
  2.  
  3. Bend the rod to adjust the clearance, notice the location of the bubble.
  4.  

Air Valve Spring

See Figure 12

  1. To gain access to the lock screw, remove the intermediate choke link.
  2.  
  3. Using a 3 / 32 in. (2.34mm) hex wrench, loosen the lock screw.
  4.  



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Fig. Fig. 12: Air valve spring adjustment

  1. Turn the adjusting screw clockwise until the air valve opens slightly, then turn the screw counterclockwise until the valve closes and continue the number of specified turns.
  2.  
  3. Tighten the lock screw and apply lithium grease to the pin and the spring contact area.
  4.  

Primary Side Vacuum Break

See Figure 13

  1. Connect a rubber band to the intermediate choke lever, then open the throttle valve to allow the choke valve to close.
  2.  



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Fig. Fig. 13: Primary side vacuum break adjustment

  1. Set up the angle gauge and the angle to specifications.
  2.  
  3. Position the fast idle screw on the second step of the fast idle cam (against the rise of the high step).
  4.  
  5. Turn the choke lever shaft to open the choke valve and make contact with the black closing tang.
  6.  
  7. Seat the choke vacuum diaphragm with an outside vacuum source.
  8.  
  9. Push in on the intermediate choke lever to close the choke valve, and hold closed during adjustment.
  10.  
  11. Adjust by using a 1 / 8 in. (3mm) hex wrench to turn the screw in the rear cover until the bubble is centered.
  12.  
  13. After adjusting, apply RTV silicone sealant over the screw to seal the setting.
  14.  

Secondary Vacuum Break

See Figure 14

  1. Connect a rubber band to the intermediate choke lever, then open the throttle valve to allow the choke valve to close.
  2.  
  3. Set up the angle gauge and the angle to specifications.
  4.  
  5. Position the fast idle screw on the second step of the fast idle cam (against the rise of the high step).
  6.  
  7. Turn the choke lever shaft to open the choke valve and make contact with the black closing tang.
  8.  



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Fig. Fig. 14: The secondary vacuum break adjustment is basically the same as that for the primary vacuum break

  1. Seat the choke vacuum diaphragm with an outside vacuum source.
  2.  
  3. Push in on the intermediate choke lever to close the choke valve, and hold closed during adjustment. Make sure the plunger spring is compressed and seated, if present.
  4.  
  5. Adjust by using a 1 / 8 in. (3mm) hex wrench to turn the screw in the rear cover until the bubble is centered.
  6.  
  7. After adjusting, apply RTV silicone sealant over the screw to seal the setting.
  8.  

Secondary Throttle Lockout

See Figure 15

  1. Pull the choke wide open by pushing out on the intermediate choke lever.
  2.  



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Fig. Fig. 15: Secondary throttle lockout adjustment

  1. Open the throttle until the end of the secondary actuating lever is opposite the toe of the lockout lever.
  2.  
  3. Gauge clearance between the lockout lever and secondary lever should be as specified.
  4.  
  5. To adjust, bend the lockout lever where it contacts the fast idle cam.
  6.  

Choke Link/Fast Idle Cam

See Figure 16

  1. Connect a rubber band to the intermediate choke lever, then open the throttle valve to allow the choke valve to close.
  2.  
  3. Set up the angle gauge and the angle to specifications.
  4.  



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Fig. Fig. 16: Fast idle cam choke link

  1. Position the fast idle screw on the second step of the fast idle cam (against the rise of the high step).
  2.  
  3. Turn the choke lever shaft to open the choke valve and make contact with the black closing tang.
  4.  
  5. Support at the S point and bend the fast idle cam link until the bubble is centered.
  6.  

REMOVAL & INSTALLATION



See Figures 17, 18, 19, 20, 21, 22 and 23

  1. Raise the hood and apply a cover on the fender.
  2.  
  3. Disconnect the battery cables and remove the battery.
  4.  
  5. Remove the air cleaner and gasket.
  6.  
  7. Disconnect the accelerator linkage.
  8.  



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Fig. Fig. 17: After removing the air cleaner, disconnect the accelerator linkage

  1. Tag then disconnect the fuel pipes and hoses, then all the vacuum lines to the carburetor.
  2.  



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Fig. Fig. 18: Tag, then disconnect, the fuel lines and all vacuum lines to the carburetor

  1. Tag and disconnect all electrical connections.
  2.  



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Fig. Fig. 19: Tag, then disconnect, all electrical connections to the carburetor, including the choke coil housing

  1. If equipped with an Automatic Transaxle, disconnect the downshift cable.
  2.  
  3. If equipped with cruise control, disconnect the linkage.
  4.  
  5. Unscrew the carburetor mounting bolts and remove the carburetor from the manifold.
  6.  



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Fig. Fig. 20: After removing all connections to the carburetor, unfasten the four mounting screws ...



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Fig. Fig. 21: ... then remove the carburetor assembly from the manifold

  1. Remove the EFE heater, then cover the fuel opening so that dirt can not enter.
  2.  



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Fig. Fig. 22: Remove the EFE heater



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Fig. Fig. 23: Cover the fuel opening so that dirt cannot enter

To install:
  1. Inspect the EFE heater for damage. Be sure that the throttle body and EFE mating surfaces are clean.
  2.  
  3. Install the new or rebuilt carburetor onto the manifold, then tighten the nuts alternately to 13 ft. lbs. (18 Nm).
  4.  
  5. Install the linkage connections for cruise, accelerator and the downshift cable.
  6.  
  7. Attach all the fuel lines and tagged vacuum lines.
  8.  
  9. Make sure all connections are intact, then install the battery and cable connections.
  10.  
  11. Start the engine and check for any fuel leaks. If any are present, turn the engine off immediately, fix the leak. If none are present proceed.
  12.  
  13. Remove the fender covers and lower the hood.
  14.  

OVERHAUL



E2SE Carburetor

See Figures 24 and 25

Efficient carburetion depends greatly on careful cleaning and inspection during overhaul, since dirt, gum, water, or varnish in or on the carburetor parts are often responsible for poor performance.

Overhaul your carburetor in a clean, dust-free area. Carefully disassemble the carburetor, referring often to the exploded views and directions packaged with the rebuilding kit. Keep all similar and look-alike parts segregated during disassembly and cleaning to avoid accidental interchange during assembly. Make a note of all jet sizes.

When the carburetor is disassembled, wash all parts (except diaphragms, electric choke units, pump plunger, and any other plastic, fiber, or rubber parts) in clean carburetor solvent. Do not leave parts in the solvent any longer than is necessary to sufficiently loosen the deposits. Excessive cleaning may remove the special finish from the float bowl and choke valve bodies, leaving these parts unfit for service. Rinse all parts in clean solvent and blow them dry with compressed air or allow them to air dry. Wipe clean all cork, plastic, and fiber parts with a clean, lint-free cloth.

Blow out all passages and jets with compressed air and be sure that there are no restrictions or blockages. Never use wire or similar tools to clean jets, fuel passages, or air bleeds. Clean all jets and valves separately to avoid accidental interchange.

Check all parts for wear or damage. If wear or damage is found, replace the defective parts. Especially check the following:

  1. Check the float needle and seat for wear. If wear is found, replace the complete assembly.
  2.  
  3. Check the float hinge pin for wear and the float(s) for dents or distortion. Replace the float if fuel has leaked into it.
  4.  
  5. Check the throttle and choke shaft bores for wear or an out-of-round condition. Damage or wear to the throttle arm, shaft, or shaft bore will often require replacement of the throttle body. These parts require a close tolerance of fit, wear may allow air leakage which could affect starting and idling.
  6.  

Throttle shafts and bushings are not included in overhaul kits. They can be purchases separately.

  1. Inspect the idle mixture adjusting needles for burrs or grooves. Any such condition requires replacement of the needle, since you will not be able to obtain a satisfactory idle.
  2.  
  3. Check the bowl cover for warped surfaces with a straightedge.
  4.  
  5. Closely inspect the accelerator pump plunger for wear and damage, replacing as necessary.
  6.  
  7. After the carburetor is assembled, check the choke valve for freedom of operation.
  8.  

Carburetor overhaul kits are recommended for each overhaul. These kits contain all gaskets and new parts to replace those which deteriorate most rapidly. Failure to replace all parts supplied with the kit (especially gaskets) can result in poor performance later.

Some carburetor manufacturers supply overhaul kits for three basic types: minor repair, major repair, and gasket kits. Basically, they contain the following:

Minor Repair Kits:


All gaskets
 
Float needle valve
 
All diagrams
 
Spring for the pump diaphragm
 

Major Repair Kits:


All jets and gaskets
 
All diaphragms
 
Float needle valve
 
Pump ball valve
 
Float
 
Complete intermediate rod
 
Intermediate pump lever
 
Some cover hold-down screws and washers
 

Gasket Kits:


All gaskets
 

After cleaning and checking all components, reassemble the carburetor, using new parts and referring to the exploded view. When reassembling, make sure that all screws and jets are tight in their seats, but do not overtighten as the tips will be distorted. Tighten all screws gradually, in rotation. Do not tighten needle valves into their seats, uneven jetting will result. Always use new gaskets. Be sure to adjust the float level when reassembling.



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Fig. Fig. 24: Model E2SE carburetor exploded view



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Fig. Fig. 25: Model E2SE carburetor parts identification

AIR HORN

See Figures 26, 27, 28 and 29

  1. Invert the carburetor, then remove the plug covering the idle mixture needle as previously described.
  2.  
  3. Install the carburetor in a suitable holding stand such as tool J-9789-118 or BT-30-15.
  4.  



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Fig. Fig. 26: A handy device for working on carburetors is a holding stand like this one - tool J-9789-118 or BT-30-15



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Fig. Fig. 27: The air horn is the top portion of the carburetor

  1. Remove the primary and secondary vacuum break assemblies. Be sure to take note of the linkage positions for installation.
  2.  
  3. Remove the three screws from the mixture control solenoid. Remove the mixture control solenoid with gasket and discard the gasket.
  4.  
  5. Remove the two screws from the vent stack and remove the vent stack. Remove the intermediate choke shaft link retainer at the choke lever and discard it.
  6.  
  7. Remove the choke link and bushing from choke lever and save the bushing.
  8.  
  9. Remove the retainer and bushing from the fast idle cam link.
  10.  



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Fig. Fig. 28: Remove the retainer and bushing from the fast idle cam link

Do not remove fast idle cam screw and cam from the float bowl. If removed, the cam might not operate properly when reassembled. If needed, a replacement float bowl will include a secondary locknut lever, fast idle cam, and cam screw.

  1. Remove the retainer from the pump link. Do not remove the screw attaching the pump lever to the air horn assembly. When reassembled, the screw might not hold properly.
  2.  
  3. Remove the seven screw assemblies of various length that retain the air horn to the carburetor and remove the air horn assembly. Tilt the air horn to disconnect fast idle cam link from the slot in fast idle cam and the pump link from the hole in the pump lever.
  4.  
  5. Remove the cam link from the choke lever. Be sure to line up the "squirt" on link with slot in lever.
  6.  
  7. Invert the air horn and remove the Throttle Position Sensor (TPS) actuator plunger. The Throttle Position Sensor (TPS) adjusting screw and plug should not be removed.
  8.  
  9. Remove the stakings that holds the TPS plunger seal retainer and pump stem seal retainer.
  10.  



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Fig. Fig. 29: Use a small prytool to remove the Throttle Position Sensor (TPS) plunger seal

  1. Use a small prytool to remove the retainers and seals, then discard them.
  2.  
  3. Further disassembly of the air horn is not required for cleaning purposes. The choke valve and choke valve screws, the air valve and air valve shaft should not be removed.
  4.  

Do not turn the secondary metering rod adjusting screw. The rod could come out of the jet and possibly cause damage.

FLOAT BOWL

See Figure 30

  1. Remove the accelerator pump, air horn gasket and pump return spring.
  2.  
  3. Remove the Throttle Position Sensor (TPS) assembly and spring. Inspect the TPS connector wires for broken insulation, which could cause grounding of the TPS.
  4.  
  5. Remove the upper insert and the hinge pin. Remove the float and lever assembly with the float stabilizing spring if used. Remove the float needle and pull clip.
  6.  
  7. Remove the lower insert, if used.
  8.  
  9. Remove the float needle seat and seat gasket.
  10.  
  11. Remove the jet and lean mixture needle assembly.
  12.  

Do not remove or change the preset adjustment of calibration needle in the metering jet unless the Computer Command Control system performance check requires it.

  1. Remove the pump discharge spring guide, using a suitable slide hammer puller only.
  2.  



Click image to see an enlarged view

Fig. Fig. 30: Remove the pump discharge spring guide, using a suitable slide hammer puller only - E2SE shown

Do not pry the guide. Damage could occur to the sealing surfaces, and could require replacement of the float bowl.

  1. Remove the spring and check ball, by inverting the bowl and catching them as they fall.
  2.  
  3. Remove the fuel inlet nut and the fuel filter spring.
  4.  
  5. Remove the fuel filter assembly and discard it. Remove the filter gasket and discard it.
  6.  

CHOKE ASSEMBLY AND THROTTLE BODY

See Figure 31

  1. Remove the choke cover as follows:
    1. Use a 5 / 32 in. (4 mm) drill bit to remove the heads (only) from the rivets.
    2.  
    3. Remove the choke cover retainers, then the remaining pieces of rivets, using drift and small hammer.
    4.  
    5. Remove the electric choke cover and stat assembly.
    6.  

  2.  
  3. Remove the stat lever screw, stat lever, intermediate choke shaft, lever and link assembly.
  4.  
  5. Remove the two screws and the choke housing.
  6.  
  7. Remove the four screws, and the throttle body assembly from the inverted float bowl.
  8.  
  9. Remove the gasket, pump link and line up the "squirt" on link with the slot in the lever.
  10.  
  11. Count and make a record of the number of turns needed to lightly bottom the idle mixture needle, then back out and remove the needle and spring assembly using Idle Mixture Socket tool J-29030-B or BT-7610-B (or equivalent).
  12.  



Click image to see an enlarged view

Fig. Fig. 31: Count and make a record of the number of turns needed to lightly bottom the idle mixture needle, then back out and remove the needle and spring assembly using Idle Mixture Socket tool J-29030-B, BT-7610-B or equivalent

  1. Do not disassemble throttle body further.
  2.  

INSPECTION AND CLEANING
  1. Place the metal parts in a cold immersion carburetor cleaner, such as Carbon X® or equivalent.
  2.  

Do not immerse idle stop solenoid, mixture control solenoid, throttle lever actuator, TPS, electric choke, rubber and plastic parts, diaphragms, and pump in the cleaner, as they may be damaged. Plastic bushing in throttle lever will withstand normal cleaning.

  1. Blow dry the parts with shop air. Be sure all fuel and air passages are free of burrs and dirt. Do not pass drill bits or wires through jets and passages.
  2.  
  3. Be sure to check the mating surfaces of casting for damage. Replace if necessary. Check for holes in levers for wear or out-of-round conditions. Check the bushings for damage and excessive wear. Replace if necessary.
  4.  

CARBURETOR REASSEMBLY

See Figure 32

  1. Install the mixture needle and spring assembly using an Idle Mixture Socket tool J-29030-B/BT-7610-B or an equivalent. Lightly bottom the needle, then back it out the number of turns recorded during removal, as a preliminary adjustment. Refer to the idle mixture adjustment procedure in this section for the final idle mixture adjustment.
  2.  
  3. Install the pump link and a new gasket on the inverted float bowl.
  4.  
  5. Install the throttle body to the float bowl assembly and finger tighten the four retaining screws. If the secondary actuating lever engages the lockout lever, and the linkage moves without binding, tighten the retaining screws.
  6.  
  7. If the float bowl assembly was replaced, stamp or engrave the model number on the new float bowl in the same location as on the old bowl.
  8.  
  9. Place the throttle body and float bowl together on a suitable carburetor holding stand.
  10.  
  11. Fasten the choke housing on the throttle body, with the retaining screws.
  12.  
  13. Install the intermediate choke shaft, lever and link assembly.
  14.  
  15. Attach the choke stat lever on the intermediate choke shaft. The intermediate choke lever must be upright.
  16.  
  17. Insert the choke lever attaching screw in the shaft.
  18.  
  19. Seat the gasket on the fuel inlet nut and install a new filter assembly in the nut.
  20.  
  21. Install the filter spring, then the fuel inlet nut. Tighten the fuel inlet nut to 18 ft. lbs. (24 Nm).
  22.  


CAUTION
Tightening beyond this limit may damage gasket and could cause a fuel leak, which might result in personal injury.

  1. Install the pump discharge ball and spring.
  2.  
  3. Install a new spring guide and tap it until the top is flush with the bowl casting.
  4.  
  5. Install the needle seat with gasket. If used, lower the insert.
  6.  
  7. Install the jet and lean mixture needle assembly. Using Lean Mixture Adjusting tool J-28696-10 or BT-7928 or equivalent, lightly bottom the lean mixture needle. Back it out 2 1 / 2 turns, as a preliminary adjustment.
  8.  



Click image to see an enlarged view

Fig. Fig. 32: Install the jet and lean mixture needle assembly. Using Lean Mixture Adjusting tool J-28696-10, BT-7928 or equivalent, lightly bottom the lean mixture needle. Back it out 21/2 turns, as a preliminary adjustment

Only adjust the lean mixture needle screw if it was removed or touched during disassembly or if the Computer Command Control system performance check, made before disassembly, indicated an incorrect lean mixture needle setting:

  1. Bend the float lever upward slightly at the notch.
  2.  
  3. If used, install the float stabilizing spring on float. Insert the hinge pin in float lever, with ends toward the pump well.
  4.  
  5. Install the needle with the pull clip assembly on the edge of the float lever. Install the float and lever assembly in float bowl.
  6.  

Adjust the float level using Float Level T-Scale J-9789-90 or BT-8037 or equivalent.

  1. Install the upper insert over the hinge pin, with the top flush with the bowl. Install the Throttle Position Sensor (TPS) spring and the TPS assembly. The parts must be below the surface of the bowl.
  2.  
  3. Install the gasket over the dowels. Install the spring and pump assembly.
  4.  
  5. Install a new pump stem seal with the lip facing outside of carburetor and install the retainer. Be sure to stake it at new locations.
  6.  
  7. Install a new TPS actuator plunger seal with the lip facing outside of carburetor, then install the retainer. Be sure to stake it at new locations.
  8.  
  9. Install the TPS plunger through the seal in the air horn. Use a lithium base grease, liberally to pin, if used, where contacted by spring.
  10.  
  11. Install the fast idle cam link in the choke lever. Be sure to line-up the "squirt" on the link with slot in the lever.
  12.  
  13. Rotate the cam to the highest position. The lower end of the fast idle cam link goes in the cam slot, and the pump link end goes into the hole in the lever.
  14.  
  15. Hold the pump down, then lower the air horn assembly onto the float bowl. Be sure to guide the pump stem through the seal.
  16.  
  17. Install one of the air horn retaining screws, then finger tighten it to hold the air horn in place.
  18.  
  19. Install the cam link in the slot of the cam. Install a new bushing and retainer to the link, with the large end of the bushing facing the retainer. Check for freedom of movement.
  20.  
  21. Install the rest of the air horn retaining screws.
  22.  
  23. Install the spacer and a new seal, then lightly coat the seal with automatic transmission fluid. Assemble the seal on the solenoid stem, touching the spacer.
  24.  
  25. Install a new retainer and gasket on the air horn. Install the mixture control solenoid lining up the stem with the recess in the bowl.
  26.  
  27. Install the solenoid retaining screws. Install the vent stack, with two retaining screws, (unless lean mixture needle requires on-vehicle adjustment).
  28.  
  29. Install a new retainer on the pump link. Adjust the air valve spring, if adjustable.
  30.  
  31. Install the bushing on the choke link. With the intermediate choke lever upright, install the link in the choke lever hole. Install the new link retainer.
  32.  
  33. The following procedures is for the reassembly of any small components that have been removed from the carburetor, replace any parts if necessary.
    1. Install the idle stop solenoid, retainer and nut to the secondary side vacuum break bracket. Bend the retainer tab to secure the nut.
    2.  
    3. Install the bushing to the link, then the link to the vacuum break plunger. Install the retainer to the link.
    4.  
    5. Rotate the assembly, insert the end of the link in the upper slot of the choke lever. Install the bracket screws.
    6.  
    7. Install the idle speed device, retainer and nut to the primary side vacuum break bracket. Bend the retainer tab to secure the nut.
    8.  
    9. Install the bushing to the vacuum break link. Install the link to vacuum break plunger. Install the retainer to the link and the bushing to the air valve link. Install the link to the plunger and the retainer to the link.
    10.  

  34.  
  35. Rotate the vacuum break assembly (primary side) and insert the end of the air valve link into the air valve lever and the vacuum break link into the lower slot of the choke lever.
  36.  
  37. Install the bracket screws, then the vacuum hose between the throttle body tube and the vacuum break assembly.
  38.  
  39. Install the choke thermostat lever. Install the choke cover and thermostat assembly in the choke housing.
  40.  
  41. If the thermostat has a "trap" (box-shaped pick-up tang), the trap surrounds the lever.
  42.  
  43. Line up the notch in the cover with projection on the housing flange. Install the retainers and rivets with a rivet tool. If necessary, use an adapter. Adjust the choke as previously described.
  44.  

E2ME Carburetor

See Figures 33 and 34

In many cases, necessary service can be carried out and completed without removing the carburetor from the engine. The information that follows pertains to a complete overhaul. The carburetor first must be removed from the engine. A complete overhaul includes disassembly, through cleaning, inspection and replacement of all gaskets, diaphragms, seals, worn or damaged parts, and adjustment of individual systems.

Refer to exploded view for parts identification. Always replace internal gaskets that are removed. Base gasket should be inspected and replaced, only if damaged.



Click image to see an enlarged view

Fig. Fig. 33: Exploded view of the E2ME carburetor



Click image to see an enlarged view

Fig. Fig. 34: Parts list for the E2ME exploded view

Before performing any service on the carburetor, it is essential that it be placed on a suitable holding fixture, such as Tool J-9789-118, BY-30-15 or equivalent. Without the use of the holding fixture, it is possible to damage throttle valves or other parts of the carburetor.

IDLE SPEED SOLENOID REMOVAL

Remove the attaching screws, then remove the Idle Speed Solenoid. The Idle Speed Solenoid should not be immersed in any carburetor cleaner, and should always be removed before complete carburetor overhaul, as carburetor cleaner will damage the internal components.

IDLE MIXTURE NEEDLE PLUG REMOVAL

See Figure 35

  1. Invert the carburetor and drain the fuel into a suitable container. Place the carburetor on a holding fixture. Make sure to avoid damaging the linkage, tubes and parts protruding from the air horn.
  2.  



Click image to see an enlarged view

Fig. Fig. 35: Use a center punch to break away the casting of the throttle body, exposing the hardened steel plug

  1. Use a hacksaw to make two parallel cuts in the throttle body, one on each side of the locator points near one idle mixture needle plug. The distance between the cuts will depend on the size of the punch to be used. Cuts should reach down to the steel plug, but should but extend more than 1 / 8 in. (3mm) beyond the locator points.
  2.  
  3. Place a flat punch at a point near the ends of the saw marks in the throttle body. Hold the punch at a 45° angle, and drive it into the throttle body until the casting breaks away, exposing the hardened steel plug. The plug will break, rather than remaining intact. Remove all the loose pieces.
  4.  
  5. Repeat the procedure for the other idle mixture needle plug.
  6.  

IDLE AIR BLEED VALVE COVER REMOVAL

See Figure 36

  1. Cover the internal bowl vents and the air inlets to the bleed valve with masking tape.
  2.  
  3. Carefully align a 0.110 in. (3mm) drill bit with the rivet head. Drill only enough to remove the head of each rivet holding the idle air bleed valve cover.
  4.  



Click image to see an enlarged view

Fig. Fig. 36: Align a 0.110 in. (3mm) drill bit with the rivet head, then remove the head of each rivet while holding the air bleed valve cover

  1. Use a suitably sized punch to drive out the remainder of the rivet from the castings. Repeat procedure with other rivet.
  2.  


CAUTION
For the next operation, safety glasses must be worn to protect eyes from possible metal shaving damage.

  1. Lift off the cover and remove any pieces of rivet still inside the tower. Use shop air to blow out any remaining chips.
  2.  
  3. Remove the idle air bleed valve from the air horn.
  4.  
  5. Remove and discard the O-ring seals from the valve. New O-ring seals are required for reassembly. The idle air bleed valve is serviced as a complete assembly only.
  6.  

AIR HORN REMOVAL
  1. Remove the upper choke lever from the end of the choke shaft by removing the retaining screw. Rotate the upper choke lever to remove the choke rod from the slot in the lever.
  2.  
  3. Remove the choke rod from the lower lever inside the float bowl casting. Remove the rod by holding the lower lever outward with small a flat-bladed tool and twisting the rod counterclockwise.
  4.  
  5. Remove the secondary metering rods by removing the small screw in the top of the metering rod hanger. Lift upward on the metering rod hanger until the secondary metering rods are completely out of the air horn. Metering rods may be disassembled from the hanger by rotating the ends out of the holes in the end of the hanger.
  6.  
  7. Remove the pump link retainer and remove the link from pump lever.
  8.  

Do not attempt to remove the lever, as damage to the air horn could result.

  1. Remove the front vacuum break hose from tube on the float bowl.
  2.  
  3. Remove the eleven air horn-to-bowl screws; then remove the two countersunk attaching screws located next to the venturi. If used, remove secondary air baffle deflector from beneath the two center air horn screws.
  4.  
  5. Remove air horn from float bowl by lifting it straight up. The air horn gasket should remain on the float bowl for removal later.
  6.  

When removing air horn from float bowl, use care to prevent damaging the mixture control solenoid connector, Throttle Position Sensor (TPS) adjustment lever, and the small tubes protruding from the air horn. These tubes are permanently pressed into the air horn casting. DO NOT remove them.

  1. Remove front vacuum break bracket attaching screws. The vacuum break assembly may now be removed from the air valve dashpot rod, and the dashpot rod from the air valve lever.
  2.  

Do not place vacuum break assembly in carburetor cleaner, as damage to vacuum break will occur.

  1. Remove Throttle Position Sensor (TPS) plunger by pushing plunger down through seal in air horn.
  2.  
  3. Remove TPS seal and pump plunger stem seal by inverting air horn and using a small screwdriver to remove staking holding seal retainers in place. Remove and discard retainers and seals.
  4.  

Use care in removing the TPS plunger seal retainer and pump plunger stem seal retainer to prevent damage to air horn casting. New seals and retainers are required for reassembly.

  1. Invert air horn, and use Tool J-28696-4, BT-7967A, or equivalent, to remove rich mixture stop screw and spring.
  2.  
  3. Use a suitable punch to drive the lean mixture screw plug and rich mixture stop screw plug out of the air horn. Discard the plugs.
  4.  
  5. Further disassembly of the air horn is not required for cleaning purposes. The choke valve and choke valve screws, the air valves and air valve shaft should not be removed. However, if it is necessary to replace the air valve closing springs or center plastic eccentric cam, a repair kit is available. Instructions for assembly are included in the repair kit.
  6.  

FLOAT BOWL DISASSEMBLY

See Figure 37

  1. Remove the solenoid metering rod plunger by lifting straight up.
  2.  



Click image to see an enlarged view

Fig. Fig. 37: Remove the solenoid metering rod plunger by lifting straight up

  1. Remove the rubber seal from around the mixture control solenoid.
  2.  
  3. Remove the air horn gasket by lifting it from the dowel locating pins on the float bowl. Discard the gasket.
  4.  
  5. Remove the pump plunger from the pump well.
  6.  
  7. Remove the staking holding the Throttle Position Sensor (TPS) in the bowl as follows:
    1. Lay a flat tool or metal piece across the bowl casting to protect the gasket sealing surface.
    2.  
    3. Use a small flat tool to depress the TPS sensor lightly and hold against spring tension.
    4.  
    5. Observing safety precautions, pry upward with a small chisel or equivalent to remove the bowl staking, making sure the prying force is exerted against the metal piece and not against the bowl casting. Use care not to damage the TPS sensor.
    6.  
    7. Push up from the bottom on the electrical connector, then remove the TPS and connector assembly from the bowl. Use care in removing the sensor and connector assembly to prevent damage to this critical electrical part.
    8.  
    9. Remove the spring from the bottom of the TPS well in the float bowl.
    10.  

  8.  
  9. Remove the plastic bowl insert from the float bowl.
  10.  
  11. Carefully lift each metering rod out of the guided metering jet, checking to be sure the return spring is removed with each metering rod.
  12.  

Use extreme care when handling these critical parts to avoid damage to the metering rod and spring.

  1. Remove the mixture control solenoid from the float bowl as follows:
    1. Remove the screw attaching the solenoid connector to the float bowl. Do not remove the solenoid connector from the float bowl until called for in text.
    2.  
    3. Use Tool J-28696-10, BT-7928, or equivalent, to remove the lean mixture (solenoid) screw. Do not remove the plunger return spring or the connector and wires from the solenoid body. The mixture control solenoid, with plunger and connector, is only serviced as a complete assembly.
    4.  
    5. Remove the rubber gasket from the top of the solenoid connector, then discard.
    6.  
    7. Remove the solenoid screw tension spring (next to float hanger pin).
    8.  

  2.  
  3. Remove the float assembly and the float needle by pulling up on the retaining pin. Remove the needle, seat and gasket using set remover Tool J-22769, BT-3006M, or equivalent.
  4.  
  5. Remove the large mixture control solenoid tension spring from the boss on the bottom of the float bowl located between the guided metering jets.
  6.  
  7. If necessary, remove the primary main metering jets using special Tool J-28696-4, BT-7928, or equivalent.
  8.  

Use care installing the tool on the jet, to prevent damage to the metering rod guide (upper area), and locating tool over vertical float sections on the lower area of the jet. Also, no attempt should be made to remove the secondary metering jets (metering orifice plates). These jets are fixed and, if damaged, entire bowl replacement is required.

  1. Remove the pump discharge check ball retainer and turn the bowl upside down, catching the discharge ball as if falls.
  2.  
  3. Remove the secondary air baffle, if replacement is required.
  4.  
  5. Remove the pump well fill slot baffle, only if necessary.
  6.  
  7. Remove the hose from the rear vacuum break assembly only if necessary. Then remove the two screws and rotate the assembly to remove the vacuum break link from the slot in the plunger head. The non-adjustable vacuum break link is not removed at this time, but is removed after removal of the choke assembly from the float bowl.
  8.  

CHOKE DISASSEMBLY

See Figures 38, 39 and 40

The tamper-resistant choke cover is used to discourage unnecessary readjustment of the choke thermostatic cover and coil assembly. However, if it is necessary to remove the cover and coil assembly during normal carburetor disassembly for cleaning and normal carburetor disassembly for cleaning and overhaul, the procedures below should be followed.

  1. Support the float bowl and throttle body, as an assembly, on a suitable holding fixture such as Tool J-9789-118, BT-30-15, or equivalent.
  2.  
  3. Carefully align a 5 / 32 in. (4mm) drill bit on the rivet head and drill only enough to remove rivet head. Drill the two remaining rivet heads, then use a drift and small hammer to drive the remainder of the rivets out of the choke housing.
  4.  



Click image to see an enlarged view

Fig. Fig. 38: Removing the choke cover rivets with a drill

Use care in drilling to prevent damage to the choke cover or housing.

  1. Remove the two conventional retainers, retainer with tab, and choke cover assembly from choke housing.
  2.  
  3. Remove the choke housing assembly from the float bowl by removing the retaining screw and washer inside the choke housing. The complete choke assembly can be removed from the float bowl by sliding outward.
  4.  



Click image to see an enlarged view

Fig. Fig. 39: Exploded view of a common choke assembly

  1. Remove the secondary throttle valve lock-out lever from the float bowl.
  2.  
  3. Remove the lower choke lever from inside the float bowl cavity by inverting the bowl.
  4.  
  5. To disassemble the intermediate choke shaft from the choke housing, remove the coil lever retaining screw at the end of the shaft inside the choke housing. Remove the thermostatic coil lever from the flats on the intermediate choke shaft.
  6.  
  7. Remove the intermediate choke shaft from the choke housing by sliding it outward. The fast idle cam can now be removed from the intermediate choke shaft. On hot air choke models, remove the cup seal inside the choke housing shaft hole. Remove the cup seal from the float bowl cleaning purposes. DO NOT ATTEMPT TO REMOVE THE INSERT.
  8.  
  9. Remove the fuel inlet nut, gasket, check valve, filter assembly and spring. Discard the check valve filter assembly and gasket.
  10.  
  11. Remove the three throttle body-to-bowl attaching screws and lockwashers, then remove the throttle body assembly.
  12.  



Click image to see an enlarged view

Fig. Fig. 40: Remove the three throttle body-to-bowl attaching screws and lockwashers, then remove the throttle body assembly

  1. Remove the throttle body-to-bowl insulator gasket.
  2.  

THROTTLE BODY DISASSEMBLY
  1. Place the throttle body assembly on a carburetor holding fixture to avoid damage to the throttle valves.
  2.  
  3. Remove the pump rod from the throttle lever by rotating the rod until the tang on the rod aligns with the slot in the lever.
  4.  

Do not remove the plugs covering the idle mixture needles during normal carburetor cleaning and servicing.

  1. If it is necessary to remove the idle mixture needles, see Idle Mixture Plug Removal.
  2.  
  3. Further disassembly of the throttle body is not required for cleaning purposes. The throttle valve screws are permanently staked in place and should not be removed. The throttle body is serviced as a complete assembly.
  4.  

CARBURETOR REASSEMBLY
  1. Install the lower end of the pump rod in the throttle lever by aligning the tang on the rod with the slot in the lever. The end of the rod should point outward toward the throttle lever.
  2.  
  3. Install the idle mixture needles and springs using Tool J-29030-B, BT07610B, or equivalent. Lightly seat each needle, then turn counterclockwise the number of specified turns, the final idle mixture adjustment is made on the vehicle.
  4.  
  5. If a new float bowl assembly is used, stamp or engrave the model number on the new float bowl. Install the new throttle body-to-bowl insulator gasket over two locating dowels on bowl.
  6.  
  7. Install throttle body making certain throttle body is properly located over dowels on float bowl. Install three throttle body-to-bowl screws and lockwashers and tighten evenly and securely.
  8.  
  9. Place carburetor on proper holding fixture such as J-9789-118, BT-30-15 or equivalent.
  10.  
  11. Install fuel inlet filter spring, a new check valve filter assembly, new gasket and inlet nut. Tighten nut to 18 ft. lbs. (24 Nm).
  12.  

When installing a service replacement filter, make sure the filter is the type that includes the check valve to meet government safety standard. New service replacement filters with check valve meet this requirement. When properly installed, the hole in the filter faces toward the inlet nut. Ribs on the closed end of the filter element prevent it from being installed incorrectly, unless forced. Tightening beyond the specified torque can damage the nylon gasket.

  1. Install a new cup seal into the insert on the side of the float bowl for the intermediate choke shaft. The lip on the cup seal faces outward.
  2.  
  3. Install the secondary throttle valve lock-out lever on the boss of the float bowl, with the recess hole in the lever facing inward.
  4.  
  5. Install the fast idle cam on the intermediate choke shaft (steps on cam face downward).
  6.  
  7. Carefully install the fast idle cam and intermediate choke shaft assembly in the choke housing. Install the thermostatic coil lever on the flats on the intermediate choke shaft. Inside the thermostatic choke coil lever is properly aligned when both inside and outside levers face toward the fuel inlet. Install the inside lever retaining screw into the end of the intermediate choke shaft.
  8.  
  9. Install the lower choke rod (inner) lever into the cavity in the float bowl.
  10.  
  11. Install the choke housing to the bowl, sliding the intermediate choke shaft into the lower (inner) lever. Tool J-23417, BT-6911 or equivalent, can be used to hold the lower choke lever in the correct position while installing the choke housing. The intermediate choke shaft lever and fast idle cam are in the correct position when the tang on lever is beneath the fast idle cam.
  12.  
  13. Install the choke housing retaining screws and washers. Check the linkage for freedom of movement. Do not install the choke cover and coil assembly until the inside coil lever is adjusted.
  14.  
  15. If removed, install the air baffle in the secondary side of the float bowl with the notches towards the top. The top edge of the baffle must be flush with the bowl casting.
  16.  
  17. If removed, install the baffle inside of the pump well with the slot towards the bottom.
  18.  
  19. Install the pump discharge check ball and the retainer screw in the passage next to the pump well.
  20.  
  21. If removed, carefully install the primary main metering jets in the bottom of the float bowl using Tool J-28696-4, BT-7928, or equivalent.
  22.  

Use care in installing the jets to prevent damage to the metering rod guide.

  1. Install the large mixture control solenoid tension spring over the boss on the bottom of the float bowl.
  2.  
  3. Install the needle seat assembly, with gasket, using seat installer J-22769, BT-3006M, or equivalent.
  4.  
  5. To make the adjustment easier, carefully bend the float arm before assembly.
  6.  
  7. Install the float needle onto the float arm by sliding the float lever under the needle pull clip. Proper installation of the needle pull clip is to hook the clip over the edge of the float on the float arm facing the float pontoon.
  8.  
  9. Install the float hinge pin into the float arm with end of loop of pin facing pump well. Install the float assembly by aligning the needle in the seat, then the float hinge pin into locating channels in the float bowl. DO NOT install float needle pull clip into holes in float arm.
  10.  
  11. Make a float level adjustment as necessary.
  12.  
  13. Install the mixture control solenoid screw tension spring between the raised bosses next to the float hanger pin.
  14.  
  15. Install mixture control solenoid and connector assembly as follows:
    1. Install the new rubber gasket on top of the solenoid connector.
    2.  
    3. Install the solenoid carefully in the float chamber, aligning pin on end of solenoid with hole in raised boss at bottom of bowl. Align solenoid connector wires to fit in slot in bowl.
    4.  
    5. Install the lean mixture (solenoid) screw through the hole in the solenoid bracket and the tension spring in the bowl, engaging the first six screw threads to assure the proper thread engagement.
    6.  
    7. Install the mixture control solenoid gauging Tool J-33815-1, BT-8253-A, or equivalent over the throttle side metering jet rod guide, and temporarily install solenoid plunger.
    8.  
    9. Holding the solenoid plunger against the Solenoid Stop, use Tool J-28696-10, BT-7928, or equivalent, to turn the lean mixture (solenoid) screw slowly clockwise, until the solenoid plunger just contacts the gauging tool. The adjustment is correct when the solenoid plunger is contacting BOTH the Solenoid Stop and the Gauging Tool.
    10.  
    11. Remove the solenoid plunger and gauging tool.
    12.  

  16.  
  17. Install the connector attaching screw, but DO NOT overtighten, as that could cause damage to the connector.
  18.  
  19. Install the Throttle Position Sensor return spring in the bottom of the well in the float bowl.
  20.  
  21. Install the Throttle Position Sensor and connector assembly in the float bowl by aligning the groove in the electrical connector with the slot in the float bowl casting. Push down on the connector and the sensor assembly so that the connector and wires are located below bowl casting surface.
  22.  
  23. Install the plastic bowl insert over float valve, pressing downward until properly seated (flush with bowl casting surface).
  24.  
  25. Slide the metering rod return spring over the metering rod tip until the small end of the spring stops against the shoulder on the rod. Carefully install the metering rod and spring assembly through the holding in the plastic bowl insert, then gently lower the metering rod into the guided metering jet, until large end of spring seats on the recess on end of jet guide.
  26.  


CAUTION
Do not force the metering rod down in jet. Use extreme care when handling these critical parts to avoid damage to rod and spring. if service replacement metering rods, springs and jets are installed, they must be installed in matched sets.

  1. Install the pump return spring in the pump well.
  2.  
  3. Install the pump plunger assembly in the pump well.
  4.  
  5. Holding down on the pump plunger assembly against return spring tension, install the air horn gasket by aligning the pump plunger stem with the hole in the gasket, and aligning the holes in the gasket over the TPS plunger, solenoid plunger return spring metering rods, solenoid attaching screw and electrical connector. Position the gasket over the two dowel locating pins on the float bowl.
  6.  
  7. Holding down on air horn gasket and pump plunger assembly, install the solenoid-metering rod plunger in the solenoid, aligning slot in end of plunger with solenoid attaching screw. Be sure plunger arms engage top of each metering.
  8.  
  9. If a service replacement Mixture Control Solenoid package is installed, the solenoid and plunger MUST be installed as a matched set.
  10.  

AIR HORN ASSEMBLY
  1. If removed, install TPS adjustment screw in air horn using Tool J-28696-10, BT-7967A, or equivalent. Final adjustment of the Throttle Position Sensor is made on the vehicle.
  2.  
  3. Inspect the air valve shaft pin for lubrication. Apply a liberal quantity of lithium base grease to the air valve shaft pin, especially in the area contacted by the air valve spring.
  4.  
  5. Install new pump plunger and TPS plunger seals and retainers in air horn casting. The lip on the seal faces outward, away from the air horn mounting surface. Lightly stake seal retainer in three places, choosing locations different from the original stakings.
  6.  
  7. Install rich mixture stop screw and rich authority adjusting spring from bottom side of the air horn. Use Tool J-2869-4, BT-7967A, or equivalent, to bottom the stop screw lightly, then back out 1 / 4 turn. Final adjustment procedure will be covered later in this section.
  8.  
  9. Install TPS actuator plunger in the seal.
  10.  
  11. Carefully lower the air horn assembly onto the float bowl while positioning the TPS Adjustment Lever over the TPS sensor and guiding pump plunger stem through the seal in the air horn casting. To ease installation, insert a thin screwdriver between the air horn gasket and float bowl to raise the TPS Adjustment Lever, positioning it over the TPS sensor.
  12.  
  13. Make sure that the bleed tubes and accelerating well tubes are positioned properly through the holes in the air horn gasket. Do not force the air horn assembly onto the bowl, but lower it lightly into place over the two dowel locating pins.
  14.  
  15. Install the two long air horn screws and lockwashers, nine short screws and lockwashers and two countersunk screws located next to the carburetor venturi area. Install secondary air baffle beneath the No. 3 and 4 screws. Tighten all screws evenly and securely.
  16.  
  17. Install the air valve rod into the slot in the lever on the end of the air valve shaft. Install the other end of the rod in hole in front vacuum break plunger. Install the front vacuum break and bracket assembly on the air horn, using two attaching screws. Tighten the screw securely. Connect the pump link to the pump lever and install the retainer.
  18.  

Use care installing the roll pin to prevent damage to the pump lever bearing surface and casting bosses.

  1. Install the two secondary metering rods into the secondary metering rod hanger (upper end of rods point toward each other). Install the secondary metering rod holder, with rods, onto the air valve cam follower. Install the retaining screw, then tighten securely. Work the air valves up and down several times to make sure they remove freely in both directions.
  2.  
  3. Connect the choke rod into the lower choke lever inside the bowl cavity. Install the choke rod in the slot in the upper choke lever, and position the lever on the end of the choke shaft, making sure the flats on the end of the shaft align with the flats in the lever. Install the attaching screw, then tighten securely. When properly installed, the number on the lever will face outward.
  4.  
  5. Adjust the rich mixture stop screw:
    1. Insert the external float gauging Tool J-34935-1,BT-8420A, or equivalent, in the vertical D-shaped vent hole in the air horn casting (next to the idle air bleed valve) and allow it to float freely.
    2.  
    3. Read (at eye level) the mark on the gauge, in inches, that lines up with the tip of the air horn casting.
    4.  
    5. Lightly press down on gauge, then again read and record the mark on the gauge that lines up with the top of the air horn casting.
    6.  
    7. Subtract the gauge UP dimension, found in Step b, from the gauge DOWN dimension, found in Step c, and record the difference in inches. This difference in dimension is the total solenoid plunger travel.
    8.  
    9. Insert Tool J-28696-10, BT-7928, or equivalent, in the access hole in the air horn, and adjust the rich mixture stop screw to obtain 4 / 32 in. (3mm) total solenoid plunger travel.
    10.  

  6.  
  7. With the solenoid plunger travel correctly set, install the plugs supplied in the service kit into the air horn to retain the setting and prevent fuel vapor loss:
    1. Install the plug, hollow end down, into the access hole to the lean mixture (solenoid) screw and use a suitably sized punch to drive the plug into the air horn until top of plug is even with the lower edge of the hole chamber.
    2.  
    3. In a similar manner, install the plug over the rich mixture screw access hole and drive the plug into place so that the tip of the plug is 1 / 16 in. (2mm) below the surface of the air horn casting.
    4.  

  8.  
  9. Install the Idle Air Bleed Valve as follows:
    1. Lightly coat the two new O-ring seals with automatic transmission fluid, to aid in their installation on the idle air bleed valve body. The thick seal goes in the upper groove and the thin seal goes in the lower groove.
    2.  
    3. Install the idle air bleed valve in the air horn, making sure that there is proper thread engagement.
    4.  
    5. Insert the idle air bleed valve gauging Tool J-33815-2, BT-8353B, or equivalent, in throttle side D-shaped vent hole of the air horn casting. The upper end of the tool should be positioned over the open cavity next to the idle air bleed valve.
    6.  
    7. Hold the gauging tool down lightly so that the solenoid plunger is against the solenoid stop, then adjust the idle air bleed valve so that the gauging tool will pivot over and just contact the top of the valve.
    8.  
    9. Remove the gauging tool.
    10.  
    11. The final adjustment of the idle air bleed valve is made on the vehicle to obtain idle mixture control.
    12.  

  10.  
  11. Perform the Air Valve Spring Adjustment and Choke coil Lever Adjustment as previously described.
  12.  
  13. Install the cover and coil assembly in the choke housing, as follows:
    1. Place the cam follower on the highest step of the fast idle cam.
    2.  
    3. Install the thermostatic cover and coil assembly in the choke housing, making sure the coil tang engages the inside coil pickup lever. Ground contact for the electric choke is provided by a metal plate located at the rear of the choke cover assembly. DO NOT install a choke cover gasket between the electric choke assembly and the choke housing.
    4.  
    5. A choke cover retainer kit is required to attach the choke cover to the choke housing. Follow the instructions found in the kit and install the proper retainer and rivets using a suitable blind rivet tool.
    6.  
    7. It may be necessary to use an adapter (tube) if the installing tool interferes with the electrical connector tower on the choke cover.
    8.  

  14.  
  15. Install the hose on the front vacuum brake and on the tube on the float bowl.
  16.  
  17. Position the idle speed solenoid and bracket assembly on the float bowl, retaining it with two large countersunk screws.
  18.  
  19. Perform the Choke Rod-Fast Idle Cam Adjustment, Primary (Front) Vacuum Break Adjustment, Air Valve Rod Adjustment-Front, Unloader Adjustment and the Secondary Lockout Adjustment as previously described.
  20.  
  21. Reinstall the carburetor on the vehicle with a new flange gasket.
  22.  

 
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