REMOVAL & INSTALLATION
See Figures 1 through 13
This procedure is basically the same for all models regardless of which engine is used. Certain pieces of optional equipment require minor specific changes, but overall, the operation remains the same.
- Mark the relationship between each hood hinge and the hood. Remove the hood.
- Disconnect the battery cables at the battery.
- Remove the air cleaner assembly and cover the carburetor. Mark any disconnected hoses so that they may be reinstalled properly.
- Raise the front of the vehicle and support it with jackstands.
- Place a suitable drain pan under the vehicle. Locate and remove the engine coolant drain plugs. There is a drain plug on each side of the engine block, just above the top of the oil pan.
- Loosen the radiator drain petcock and allow the coolant to drain from the radiator.
- Remove the radiator hoses and the heater hoses.
- Remove the radiator fan shroud, radiator, engine cooling fan(s) and fan clutch (if so equipped).
- Drain the engine oil into a suitable pan.
- Remove the ignition shielding and release the distributor cap hold-down screws. Move the distributor cap (with wires still intact) out of the way (away from the firewall).
During this step, mark the location and/or connection point of each item so that these items may be properly reinstalled/reconnected.
- Disconnect the wiring from the starter, ignition coil, and distributor (primary wiring).
- Disconnect the wiring from the alternator.
- Disconnect the wires from both the water temperature sender and oil pressure sender. If the vehicle has a mechanical oil pressure gauge, disconnect the gauge tube at the engine block.
- Disconnect the tachometer drive and fuel injection drive cables at the distributor, if so equipped.
- Disconnect the engine ground wires.
- Disconnect the wiring from the idle solenoid, if so equipped.
- Disconnect the wiring from the various emission control items, as applicable (e.g.-TCS switch, oxygen sensor, barometric sensor, air control valve, etc.)
- Disconnect the accelerator and transmission linkage (or cables, on late models) at the carburetor, fuel injection unit, or Throttle Body Injection (TBI) unit. If equipped with cables, unbolt the cable brackets from the engine.
- Disconnect the fuel supply and evaporative emission lines at the fuel pump. On TBI equipped models, disconnect the flexible hoses which connect the frame-mounted lines to the engine-mounted lines. In either case, plug the fuel supply line to prevent fuel siphoning from the tank.
- Disconnect any vacuum lines which run from a body-mounted item to an engine-mounted item (e.g.-power brake unit, cruise control, etc.)
- Remove the drive belts from both the power steering pump and the air conditioning compressor, if equipped with these items. Unbolt the pump and compressor from their respective mounting brackets and tie these units out of the way (with lines still attached-DO NOT disconnect the refrigerant lines from the A/C compressor).
- Disconnect the cruise control chain or cable from the engine, if so equipped.
- Disconnect the exhaust pipes from the exhaust manifold flanges. If the vehicle is equipped with side exhaust, it may be wise to remove the pipe and muffler units completely to get them out of the way, thereby protecting them from damage.
- Remove the starter and solenoid as an assembly.
- Remove the flywheel splash shield or convertor underpan, as applicable.
- On automatic transmission equipped vehicles, remove the torque converter-to-flywheel attaching bolts. Also, on these models, remove the transmission dipstick and tube.
- On manual transmission equipped models, disconnect the linkage from each of the two levers of the clutch cross shaft. Loosen the outer ball stud nut and slide the stud out of the bracket slot. Move the cross shaft as required to clear the inboard ball stud. Remove the cross shaft from the vehicle.
- Unless you have a suitable plug to prevent the transmission from draining after the driveshaft is removed, drain the transmission. On automatics without drain plugs it will be necessary to carefully remove the transmission pan, drain the fluid, and reinstall the pan. Using chain or heavy wire, secure the torque converter to the transmission so that the converter will not fall out as the engine is removed (auto. trans. only).
- Matchmark the driveshaft to the rear axle flange (to prevent a driveshaft imbalance condition if the shaft was installed improperly), unbolt the universal joint straps from the flange and remove the driveshaft assembly.
- Support the transmission using a floor jack and remove the transmission-to-engine mounting bolts (auto, trans.) or the bellhousing-to-engine mounting bolts (man. trans.).
- Remove the engine mount "through" bolts (one per side, positioned front-to-back).
- Attach the engine lifting devices to the engine lifting brackets. Most engines are equipped with these brackets bolted to the intake manifold. If your engine does not have these brackets, remove the valve covers and the center head bolt from each cylinder head. Attach the lifting apparatus to the cylinder heads and secure with the cylinder head bolts.
- Move the engine forward, enough to disengage the engine from the transmission. Raise the engine enough to clear the front of the car and carefully move the engine over and away from the nose of the vehicle.
- Service the existing engine as necessary, or install a replacement.
Installation of the engine is the reverse of the removal procedure. Make note of the following points before installing the engine:
- Be sure that all wires, lines, etc., are connected as they originally were.
- Be absolutely sure that the fuel lines are tightened properly and the throttle return springs are installed properly before attempting to start a new or rebuilt engine.
- Follow all available bolt torque specifications.
- Be sure to fill the engine, transmission, and cooling system with the correct quantities and qualities of fluids.
- If a new camshaft was installed in the engine, the engine should be run for at least one hour after started at a minimum of 1,500 rpm to properly "break-in" a new cam. If the cam manufacturers instructions differ, follow their recommendations.
- Even though most head gasket manufacturers state that their gaskets require no "hot retorque," it is good practice to retorque the head bolts after the engine has been run for a couple of hours.
- During engine installation, it is wise to replace "disposable" items such as radiator hoses, heater hoses, belts, and flexible fuel lines to prevent annoying (and possibly dangerous) post-installation problems associated with these items (e.g. -coolant leaks, fuel leaks, overheating, etc.).
- Adjust all belts to the proper tension. If the belts are new, recheck their tension after about a 1 / 2 hour of running time (with a new cam, do this after the cam "break-in" period). Note that a belt is considered "used" after just 5 minutes of running time, and additional belt stretch will usually occur.
- ALWAYS check for coolant, fuel, and oil leaks after the engine is started. If there is leakage, turn off the engine, determine the source of leakage and fix the problem before restarting the engine.
- Adjust the ignition timing after the engine is started.