See Figures 1 and 2
REMOVAL & INSTALLATION
- Raise the end of the vehicle with the hose to be replaced. Secure the vehicle properly with jackstands.
- If necessary, remove the wheel.
- Note the hose routing for ease of installation later.
- Remove any attaching brackets and loosen the fittings using a flare nut wrench only.
- Remove the hose any plug any open lines.
- Install the brake hose and any brackets which were removed.
- Torque all fittings to 10-15 ft. lbs (14-20 Nm).
- Properly bleed the system.
- Remove the jackstands and lower the vehicle.
- Raise the end of the vehicle with the line to be replaced. Secure the vehicle properly with jackstands.
- If necessary, remove any components which will interfere with removal.
- Note the line routing for ease of installation later.
- Loosen the fittings using a flare nut wrench only. Plug the open line.
- Trace the line from one end to the other and loosen the fitting using a flare nut wrench only. Plug any open lines.
- Remove any retaining clips and remove the line from the vehicle.
- Obtain a replacement line. If it is longer than the original, one end must be cut and flared.
- If necessary, bend tubing using an approved tubing bender only.
When bending, don't kink or crack the line. If it does kink or crack, the line must be replaced.
- Flush the line before installing.
- Install the line and torque to 10-15 ft. lbs (14-20 Nm).
- Bleed the system properly. Install any components removed earlier.
BRAKE PIPE FLARING
Flaring steel lines is a skill which needs to be practiced before it should be done on a line to be used on a vehicle. A special flaring kit with double flaring adapters is required. It is essential that the flare be done uniformly to prevent any leaks when the brake system is under pressure. Only steel lines, not copper lines, should be used. It is also mandatory that the flare be a double flare. With the supply of parts available today, a pre-flared steel brake line should be available to fit your needs. Due to the high pressures in the brake system and the serious injuries that could occur if the flare should fail, it is strongly advised that pre-flared lines should be installed when repairing the braking system. If a line were to leak brake fluid due to a defective flare, and the leak were to go undetected, brake failure would result.
- Determine the length of pipe needed. Allow 1 / 8 in. (3.2 mm) for each flare. Cut using an appropriate tool.
- Square the end of the tube with a file and chamfer the edges. Remove any burrs.
- Install the required fittings on the pipe.
- Install the flaring tool into a vice and install the handle into the operating cam.
- Loosen the die clamp screw and rotate the locking plate to expose the die carrier.
- Select the required die set and install in the carrier.
- Insert the prepared line through the rear of the die and push forward until the line end is flush with the die face.
- Make sure the rear of both halves of the die are resting against the hexagon die stops. Then rotate the locking plate to the fully closed position and clamp the die firmly by tightening the clamp screw.
- Rotate the punch turret until the appropriate size points towards the open end of the line to be flared.
- Pull the operating handle against the line resistance in order to create the flare, then return the handle to the original position.
- Release the clamp screw and rotate the locking plate to the open position.
- Remove the die set and the line then separate by gently tapping both halves on the bench. Inspect the flare for proper size and shape.