REMOVAL & INSTALLATION
See Figures 1, 2, 3 and 4
- Disconnect the negative battery cable.
- Remove 2 / 3 of the brake fluid from the brake reservoir using a clean syringe or equivalent.
- Raise and safely support the vehicle with jackstands.
- Mark the relationship of the wheel to the hub and bearing assembly.
- Remove the tire and wheel assembly.
- Reinstall two lug nuts to retain the rotor.
Push the pistons into the caliper bore to provide clearance between the linings and the rotor, as follows:
- Install a large C-clamp over the top of the caliper housing and against the back of the outboard shoe.
If the C-clamp is tightening too far, the outboard shoe retaining spring will be deformed and require replacement.
- If the caliper is going to be replaced or removed for overhaul, disconnect and plug the brake hose.
- Unfasten the caliper mounting/slide bolts, then pull the caliper from the mounting bracket and rotor. Support the caliper with a suitable piece wire from the strut, if not removing.
- Inspect the bolt boots and support bushings for cuts or damage, replace if necessary.
Each caliper is marked with a "L'' (left side) or "R'' (right side) for proper installation. Also, proper caliper position also required that the bleeder valve is on top.
- Install the caliper over the rotor into the mounting bracket. Make sure the bolt boots/bushings are in place.
- Lubricate the entire shaft of the mounting/sliding bolts and cavities with silicone grease.
- Install the mounting or slide bolts and tighten them to 80 ft. lbs. (108 Nm).
- If removed, unplug and connect the brake hose, using new copper washers and a new inlet fitting bolt. Tighten the fitting bolt to 24 ft. lbs. (32 Nm).
- Remove the two wheel lugs, and install the wheel and tire assembly.
- Carefully lower the vehicle.
- Fill the master cylinder and bleed the brake system as outlined in this section.
- Check for hydraulic leaks. Pump the brake pedal a few times before moving the vehicle.
See Figures 5, 6, 7, 8, 9, 10 and 11
- Remove the caliper assembly from the vehicle as outlined earlier in this section.
It is critical that one piston is not completely removed before the other is freed. A pad or spacer may be used to prevent this situation. In the event one piston is frozen and will not break free, is may be necessary to block the other piston with a piece of wood or C-clamp until the frozen piston can be freed.
- Remove the caliper pistons with compressed air applied into the caliper inlet hole. Inspect the pistons for scoring, nicks corrosion, and/or worn or damaged chrome plating. Replace the piston, if any of these conditions are found.
- Remove the caliper boots, being careful not to scratch the housing bore.
- Remove the piston seals from the groove in the caliper bore, using a small wood or plastic tool.
- Carefully loosen the brake bleeder valve cap and valve from the caliper housing. If the valve breaks OFF, the caliper should be replaced.
- Inspect the caliper bores, pistons and mounting threads for scoring or excessive wear.
- Use crocus cloth to polish out light corrosion from the piston and bore.
- Clean all parts with denatured alcohol and dry with compressed air.
- Lubricate and install the bleeder valve and cap. Tighten the cap to 11 ft. lbs. (15 Nm).
- Lubricate the new piston seals and bore with clean brake fluid or brake assembly fluid.
- Install the new seals into the caliper bore grooves, making sure they are not twisted.
- Lubricate the piston bore.
- Install the pistons and boots into the bores of the calipers and push to the bottom of the bores.
- Seat the boots in the housing using tool J 36349, or equivalent.
- Install the caliper onto the vehicle, as outlined earlier.
- Install the front wheel and tire assembly, then carefully lower the vehicle.
- Properly bleed the brake system as outlined in this section.