REMOVAL & INSTALLATION
- Detach the electrical connector from fluid level switch.
- Remove and plug the 4 brake pipe tube nuts from master cylinder. If necessary, tag for identification and placement. Place shop cloths below the master cylinder to catch any dripping fluid.
When disconnecting the brake lines from the master cylinder and removing the unit, use care not to spill brake fluid on any painted surfaces or electrical connectors. Once the brake lines are disconnected from the master cylinder, plug the lines to prevent excess brake fluid loss and contamination.
- Remove the master cylinder mounting nuts.
- Remove the master cylinder from the vacuum booster.
If installing a new master cylinder, it must be bench bled, as outlined later in this section.
- Install the master cylinder to the power booster assembly and tighten the mounting nuts to 20 ft. lbs. (27 Nm).
- Connect the brake lines to the master cylinder and tighten them to 17 ft. lbs. (23 Nm).
- Attach the electrical connector to the fluid level switch.
- Fill the master cylinder to the proper level. The proper level is indicated by the MAX level marking on the fluid reservoir.
- Bleed the hydraulic brake system, as outlined later in this section.
- Road test the vehicle and verify proper brake system operation.
All new master cylinders should be bench bled prior to installation. Bleeding a new master cylinder on the vehicle is not a good idea. With air trapped inside, the master cylinder piston may bottom in the bore and possibly cause internal damage.
- Remove the master cylinder from the vehicle and secure in a soft-jawed bench vise.
- Remove the master cylinder reservoir cap.
- Manufacture or purchase bleeding tubes and install them on the master cylinder.
- Fill the master cylinder reservoir with clean, fresh brake fluid until the level is within 0.25 in. (6.35 Nm) of the reservoir top.
Ensure the bleeding tubes are below the level of the brake fluid, otherwise air may get into the system making your bleeding efforts ineffective.
- Use a blunt tipped rod (a long socket extension works well) to slowly depress the master cylinder piston. Make sure the piston travels full its full