You will need a 12 point socket to remove and install the head bolts on the CVCC engine.
REMOVAL & INSTALLATION
1170cc, 1237cc, 1335cc, 1487cc and 1600cc Engines
See Figures 1, 2 and 3
- Disconnect the negative battery cable. On the Civic (1973-77) models, remove the turn signals, grille and hood.
- Place a clean drain pan under the radiator, remove radiator cap, the drain plug (from the front side of the engine block, if equipped) and drain the cooling system.
- Disconnect the upper radiator hose from the thermostat housing.
- On CVCC models, remove distributor cap, ignition wires (mark for correct installation) and primary wire. Loosen the alternator bracket and remove the upper mounting bolt from the cylinder head.
- Remove the air cleaner housing.
- Disconnect the charcoal canister-to-carburetor tube from the canister.
- Disconnect the throttle and choke control cables. Label and disconnect all vacuum hoses.
- Disconnect the heater hose from the intake manifold.
- Disconnect the electrical connectors from both thermo-switches.
- Disconnect the fuel line from the carburetor.
- On the CVCC models, disconnect the temperature gauge sending unit wire, idle cut-off solenoid valve and the primary/main cut-off solenoid valve.
- Remove the engine torque rod from the engine. Disconnect the exhaust pipe from the exhaust manifold.
- Remove the valve cover-to-cylinder head bolts and the valve cover.
- Remove the upper timing belt cover-to-engine bolts and the cover.
- Rotate the crankshaft to position the No. 1 piston to the TDC of its compression stroke; to do this, align the notch next to the red notch used for setting ignition timing, with the index mark on the timing belt cover (1170cc and 1237cc) or the rear of engine block (CVCC).
- Loosen, but do not remove, the timing belt adjusting bolt and pivot bolt.
- On 1170cc and 1237cc models, remove the camshaft pulley bolt. Do not let the woodruff key fall inside the timing cover. Using the Pulley Removal tool No. 07935-6110000 or equivalent, remove the pulley.
If equipped with a 1170cc or 1237cc engine, perform the following procedures:
- Remove the fuel pump and distributor.
- Remove the oil pump gear holder, then, the pump gear and shaft.
- Remove the cylinder head bolts in the reverse order of the torquing sequence; the No. 1 cylinder head bolt is hidden under the oil pump.
- Remove the cylinder head with the carburetor and manifolds attached.
- If necessary, remove the intake and exhaust manifolds from the cylinder head.
After removing the cylinder head, cover the engine with a clean cloth to prevent materials from getting into the cylinders.To install:
- Using a putty knife, clean the gasket mounting surfaces.
Use new gaskets and reverse the removal procedures, being sure to pay attention to the following points.
- Be sure that No. 1 cylinder is at TDC of its compression stroke.
- Use a new head gasket and make sure the head, engine block and gasket are clean.
- The cylinder head aligning dowel pins should be in their proper place in the block before installing the cylinder head.
- Using the torquing sequence, torque the head bolts according to the diagram. On the 1335cc and 1487cc engines, torque the cylinder head-to-engine bolts in two steps: to 22 ft. lbs., then, to 43 ft. lbs., in sequence each time.
- After the head bolts have been tightened, install the woodruff key and camshaft pulley (if removed) and torque the pulley bolt according to specification. On the non-CVCC engines, align the marks on the camshaft pulley so they are parallel with the top of the head and the woodruff key is facing upwards; on the CVCC engines, the word UP should be facing upward and the mark on the cam gear should be aligned with the arrow on the cylinder head.
- After installing the pulley (if removed), install the timing belt. Be careful not to disturb the timing position already set when installing the belt.
See Figures 4 through 14
- Disconnect the negative battery terminal from the battery.
- Place a clean drain pan under the radiator, remove the drain plug and the radiator cap, then, drain the cooling system.
- Label and disconnect the vacuum hoses from the air cleaner.
- Disconnect the electrical connectors from the thermosensor temperature gauge sending unit, idle cut-off solenoid valve, primary/main cut-off solenoid valve and the automatic choke.
- Disconnect the fuel lines and throttle cable from the carburetor(s).
- Label and disconnect all emission hoses from the carburetor, then, remove the carburetor.
- Label and disconnect the electrical connectors wires and hoses from the distributor, then, remove the distributor.
- Remove the coolant hoses from the cylinder head.
- Loosen the exhaust manifold-to-engine bracket bolts to ease assembly, then, disconnect the hot air ducts and head pipe from the cylinder head.
- If equipped with power steering, loosen the adjustment bolt and remove the belt. Disconnect and plug the hoses/fittings to prevent contamination. Remove the pump-to-engine bolts and swing the pump to the right side of the engine.
- If not equipped with air conditioning, remove the alternator bracket-to-cylinder head bolt and loosen the adjusting bolt.
- If equipped with air conditioning, remove the alternator and bracket from the engine.
- Disconnect the brake booster vacuum hose from the one-way valve.
- Remove the valve cover and upper timing belt cover.
- Loosen the timing belt pivot and adjusting bolts, then, slide the belt from the pulley.
- Remove the oil pump gear cover and pull the oil pump shaft out of the cylinder head.
- Remove the head bolts in sequence working from the outer ends, toward the center; this is the reverse of the torquing sequence. To prevent warpage, loosen the bolts 1 / 3 turn (in sequence) until they are loose.
- Carefully lift the cylinder head from the engine block.
- Using a putty knife, clean the gasket mounting surfaces.
- Use new gaskets, seals and reverse the removal procedures. Make sure the head dowel pins are aligned. Make sure that the UP mark on the timing belt pulley is at the top.
- Torque the cylinder head bolts in two equal steps to 43 ft. lbs. (1751cc engine) or 49 ft. lbs. (1829cc engine). Road test the vehicle for proper operation.
CLEANING AND INSPECTION
See Figures 15, 16 and 17
- Refer to the Valves, Removal & Installation in this section and remove the valve assemblies from the cylinder head.
- Using a small wire power brush, clean the carbon from the combustion chambers and the valve ports.
- Inspect the cylinder head for cracks in the exhaust ports, combustion chambers or external cracks in the water chamber.
- Thoroughly clean the valve guides using a suitable wire bore brush.
Excessive valve stem-to-bore clearance will cause excessive oil consumption and may cause valve breakage. Insufficient clearance will result in noisy and sticky functioning of the valve and disturb engine smoothness.
Measure the valve stem clearance as follows:
- Clamp a dial indicator on one side of the cylinder head rocker arm cover gasket rail.
- Locate the indicator so movement of the valve stem from side-to-side (crosswise to the head) will cause a direct movement of the indicator stem. The indicator stem must contact the side of the valve stem just above the valve guide.
- Prop the valve head about 1 / 16 inches off the valve seat.
- Move the stem of the valve from side-to-side using light pressure to obtain a clearance reading. If the clearance exceeds specifications, it will be necessary to ream (for original valves) the valve guides.
- Inspect the rocker arm studs for wear or damage.
- Install a dial micrometer into the valve guide and check the valve seat for concentricity.
See Figure 18
- Using a straightedge, check the cylinder for warpage.
- If the warpage exceeds 0.076mm in a 152mm span or 0.152mm over the total length, the cylinder head must be resurfaced. Resurfacing can be performed at most machine shops.