Honda Accord/Civic/Prelude 1973-1983 Repair Guide

Transaxle

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REMOVAL & INSTALLATION



See Figure 1

Civic 1973-79
  1. Drain the transaxle.
  2.  



Click image to see an enlarged view

Fig. Fig. 1: 5-Speed transaxle housing and related parts

  1. Raise and support the front of the vehicle on jackstands.
  2.  
  3. Remove the front wheels.
  4.  
  5. Disconnect the negative battery terminals from the battery and the transaxle case.
  6.  
  7. Disconnect the positive battery terminal from the starter and the wire from the solenoid. Remove the starter.
  8.  
  9. Disconnect the following cables and wires:
    1. Clutch cable at the release arm.
    2.  
    3. Back-up light switch wires.
    4.  
    5. Transmission Controlled Spark (TCS) switch wires, if so equipped.
    6.  
    7. Speedometer cable.
    8.  

  10.  


WARNING
When removing the speedometer cable from the transaxle, it is not necessary to remove the entire cable holder. Remove the end boot (gear holder seal) and the cable retaining clip, then, pull the cable out of the holder. In no way should you disturb the holder, unless it is absolutely necessary.

  1. Using a Ball Joint Remover tool, disconnect the left and right lower ball joints from the steering knuckle.
  2.  
  3. Pull on both wheel hubs to disconnect the driveshafts from the differential case.
  4.  
  5. Using a drift punch, drive out the gearshift rod pin (8mm) and disconnect the rod at the transaxle case.
  6.  
  7. Disconnect the gearshift extension from the clutch housing.
  8.  
  9. Screw in the engine hanger bolts to the engine torque rod bolt hole and to the hole just to the left of the distributor. Hook a chain to the bolts and lift the engine just enough to take the weight off the engine mounts.
  10.  
  11. After making sure that the engine is properly supported, remove the two center beam-to-lower engine mount nuts. Remove the center beam and the lower engine mount.
  12.  
  13. Reinstall the center beam (without mount) and lower the engine until it rests on the beam.
  14.  
  15. Place a floor jack under the transaxle and loosen the attaching bolts. Using the jack to support the transaxle, slide it away from the engine and lower the jack until the transaxle clears the vehicle.
  16.  

To install:
  1. Install the transaxle in the vehicle. Reverse all the removal procedures.
  2.  
  3. Be sure to pay attention to the following points:
    1. Tighten all mounting nuts and bolts to their specified torque.
    2.  
    3. Use a new shift rod pin.
    4.  
    5. After installing the driveshafts, attempt to move the inner joint housing in and out of the differential housing. If it moves easily, the driveshaft end clips should be replaced.
    6.  
    7. Make sure that the control cables and wires are properly connected.
    8.  
    9. Be sure the transaxle is refilled to the proper level. Road test the vehicle for proper operation.
    10.  

  4.  

Civic 1980-83

  1. Disconnect the battery ground.
  2.  
  3. Unlock the steering and place the transaxle in neutral.
  4.  
  5. Disconnect the following wires in the engine compartment:
    1. Battery positive cable.
    2.  
    3. Black/white wire from the solenoid.
    4.  
    5. Temperature gauge sending unit wire.
    6.  
    7. Ignition timing thermo-sensor wire.
    8.  
    9. Back-up light switch.
    10.  
    11. Distributor wiring.
    12.  
    13. Transaxle ground cable.
    14.  

  6.  
  7. Unclip and remove the speedometer cable at the transaxle. Do not disassemble the speedometer gear holder!
  8.  
  9. Remove the clutch slave cylinder with the hydraulic line attached, or disconnect the clutch cable at the release arm.
  10.  
  11. Remove the side and top starter mounting bolts. Loosen the front wheel lug nuts.
  12.  
  13. Apply the parking brake and block the rear wheels. Raise and support the front end of the vehicle. Remove the front wheels.
  14.  
  15. Attach a suitable chain hoist to the rear of the engine then raise the engine slightly to take the weight off of the mounts. Drain the transaxle, then reinstall the drain plug and washer.
  16.  
  17. Remove the splash shields from the underside.
  18.  
  19. Remove the stabilizer bar.
  20.  
  21. Disconnect the left and right lower ball joints and tie end rods, using a ball joint remover.
  22.  


CAUTION
Place a floor jack under the lower control arm securely at the ball joint. Otherwise, the lower control arm may jump suddenly away from the steering knuckle as the ball joint is removed!

  1. Turn the right steering knuckle out as far as it will go. Place a prybar against the inboard CV-joint, pry the right axle out of the transaxle about 1 / 2 . This will force the spring clip out of the groove inside the differential gear splines. Pull it out the rest of the way. Repeat this procedure on the other side.
  2.  
  3. Disconnect the shift lever torque rod from the clutch housing.
  4.  
  5. Slide the pin retainer back, drive out the spring pin using a pin punch, then disconnect the shift rod. Remove the bolt from the shift rod clevis, if so equipped.
  6.  
  7. Place a transmission jack under the transaxle and raise the transmission jack securely against the transaxle to take up the weight.
  8.  
  9. Remove the engine torque rods and brackets. Remove the bolts from the front transaxle mount. Remove the transaxle housing bolts from the engine torque bracket.
  10.  
  11. Remove the remaining starter mounting bolts and take out the starter.
  12.  
  13. Remove the remaining transaxle mounting bolts and the upper bolt from the engine damper bracket. Remove the clutch housing bolts from the rear transaxle mounting bracket. Remove the one remaining bolt from the engine.
  14.  
  15. Start backing the transaxle away from the engine and remove the two lower damper bolts.
  16.  
  17. Pull the transaxle clear of the engine and lower the jack.
  18.  

To install:
  1. To ease installation, fabricate two 14mm diameter dowel pins and install them in the clutch housing.
  2.  
  3. Raise the transaxle and slide it onto the dowels. Slide the transaxle onto position aligning the mainshaft splines with the clutch plate.
  4.  
  5. Attach the damper lower bolts when the positioning allows. Tighten both bolts until the clutch housing is seated against the block.
  6.  
  7. Install two lower mounting bolts and torque them to 33 ft. lbs.
  8.  
  9. Install the front and rear torque rod brackets. Torque the front torque rod bolts to 54 ft. lbs., the front bracket bolts to 33 ft. lbs., the rear torque rod bolts to 54 ft. lbs., and the rear bracket bolts to 47 ft. lbs.
  10.  
  11. Remove the transmission jack.
  12.  
  13. Install the starter and torque the mounting bolts to 33 ft. lbs.
  14.  
  15. Turn the right steering knuckle out far enough to fit the end into the transaxle. Use new 26mm spring clips on both axles. Repeat procedure for the other side.
  16.  


CAUTION
Make sure that the axles bottom fully so that you feel the spring clip engage the differential.

  1. Install the lower ball joints. Torque the nuts to 32 ft. lbs.
  2.  
  3. Install the tie rods. Torque the nuts to 32 ft. lbs.
  4.  
  5. Connect the shift linkage.
  6.  
  7. Connect the shift lever torque rod to the clutch housing and torque the bolt to 7 ft. lbs. (84 inch lbs.).
  8.  
  9. Install the stabilizer bar.
  10.  
  11. Install the lower shields.
  12.  
  13. Install the front wheels and torque the lugs to specifications.
  14.  
  15. Install the remaining starter bolts and torque to 33 ft. lbs.
  16.  
  17. Install the clutch slave cylinder at the release arm.
  18.  
  19. Install the speedometer cable using a new O-ring coated with clean engine oil.
  20.  
  21. Connect all engine compartment wiring.
  22.  
  23. Fill the transaxle with SAE 10W-40 engine oil. Road test the vehicle for proper operation.
  24.  

Accord 1976-79
  1. Drain the transaxle.
  2.  
  3. Raise and support the front of the vehicle on jackstands.
  4.  
  5. Remove the front wheels.
  6.  
  7. Disconnect the negative battery terminals from the battery and the transaxle case.
  8.  
  9. Disconnect the positive battery terminal from the starter and the wire from the solenoid. Remove the starter.
  10.  
  11. Disconnect the following cables and wires:
    1. Clutch cable at the release arm.
    2.  
    3. Back-up light switch wires.
    4.  
    5. Transmission Controlled Spark (TCS) switch wires, if so equipped.
    6.  
    7. Speedometer cable.
    8.  

  12.  


WARNING
When removing the speedometer cable from the transaxle, it is not necessary to remove the entire cable holder. Remove the end boot (gear holder seal) and the cable retaining clip, then, pull the cable out of the holder. In no way should you disturb the holder, unless it is absolutely necessary.

  1. Using a Ball Joint Remover tool, disconnect the left and right lower ball joints from the steering knuckle.
  2.  
  3. Pull on both wheel hubs to disconnect the driveshafts from the differential case.
  4.  
  5. Using a drift punch, drive out the gearshift rod pin (8mm) and disconnect the rod at the transaxle case.
  6.  
  7. Disconnect the gearshift extension from the clutch housing.
  8.  
  9. Screw in the engine hanger bolts to the engine torque rod bolt hole and to the hole just to the left of the distributor. Hook a chain to the bolts and lift the engine just enough to take the weight off the engine mounts.
  10.  
  11. After making sure that the engine is properly supported, remove the two center beam-to-lower engine mount nuts. Remove the center beam and the lower engine mount.
  12.  
  13. Reinstall the center beam (without mount) and lower the engine until it rests on the beam.
  14.  
  15. Place a floor jack under the transaxle and loosen the attaching bolts. Using the jack to support the transaxle, slide it away from the engine and lower the jack until the transaxle clears the vehicle.
  16.  

To install:
  1. Install the transaxle in the vehicle. Reverse all the removal procedures.
  2.  
  3. Be sure to pay attention to the following points:
    1. Tighten all mounting nuts and bolts to their specified torque.
    2.  
    3. Use a new shift rod pin.
    4.  
    5. After installing the driveshafts, attempt to move the inner joint housing in and out of the differential housing. If it moves easily, the driveshaft end clips should be replaced.
    6.  
    7. Make sure that the control cables and wires are properly connected.
    8.  
    9. Be sure the transaxle is refilled to the proper level. Road test the vehicle for proper operation.
    10.  

  4.  

Accord 1980-83

See Figure 2

  1. Disconnect the battery ground cable at the battery and the transaxle case.
  2.  
  3. Disconnect the following cables and wires:
    1. Clutch cable at the release arm.
    2.  
    3. Back-up light switch wires.
    4.  
    5. TCS (Transmission Controlled Spark) switch wires, if so equipped.
    6.  
    7. Black/white wire from the starter solenoid.
    8.  

  4.  
  5. Release the engine sub wiring harness from the clamp at the clutch housing. Remove the upper two transaxle mounting bolts.
  6.  
  7. Raise the front of the car and support it with safety stands. Drain the transaxle.
  8.  
  9. Remove the front wheels. Disconnect the speedometer cable.
  10.  

When removing the speedometer cable from the transaxle, it is not necessary to remove the entire cable holder. Remove the end boot (gear holder seal), the cable retaining clip and then pull the cable out of the holder. In no way should you disturb the holder, unless it is absolutely necessary.

  1. Disconnect the shift lever torque rod from the clutch housing. Remove the bolt from the shift rod clevis.
  2.  
  3. Disconnect the tie rod ball joints and remove them using a suitable ball joint remover.
  4.  
  5. Remove the lower arm ball joint bolt from the right side lower control arm, then using a puller to disconnect the ball joint from the knuckle. Remove the damper fork bolt.
  6.  



Click image to see an enlarged view

Fig. Fig. 2: Driving out the gearshift rod pin

  1. Drive out the gearshift rod pin (8mm) with a drift and disconnect the rod at the transaxle case.
  2.  
  3. Disconnect the gearshift extension at the clutch housing.
  4.  
  5. Screw in the engine hanger bolts (see the Engine Removal section) to the engine torque rod bolt hole and to the hole just to the left of the distributor. Hook a chain onto the bolts and lift the engine just enough to take the load off the engine mounts.
  6.  
  7. After making sure that the engine is properly supported, remove the two center beam-to-lower engine mount nuts. Next, remove the center beam, followed by the lower engine mount.
  8.  
  9. Reinstall the center beam (without mount) and lower the engine until it rests on the beam.
  10.  
  11. Place a jack under the transaxle and loosen the 4 attaching bolts. Using the jack to support the transaxle, slide it away from the engine and lower the jack until the transaxle clears the car.
  12.  

To install:
  1. Install the transaxle. Reverse all the removal procedure.
  2.  
  3. Be sure to pay attention to the following points:
    1. Tighten all mounting nuts and bolts.
    2.  
    3. Use a new shift rod pin.
    4.  
    5. After installing the driveshafts, attempt to move the inner joint housing in and out of the differential housing. If it moves easily, the driveshaft end clips should be replaced.
    6.  
    7. Make sure that the control cables and wires are properly connected.
    8.  
    9. Be sure the transaxle is refilled to the proper level. Road test the vehicle for proper operation.
    10.  

  4.  

Prelude 1979-83

  1. Disconnect the battery ground cable at the battery and the transaxle case.
  2.  
  3. Disconnect the following cables and wires:
    1. Clutch cable at the release arm.
    2.  
    3. Back-up light switch wires.
    4.  
    5. TCS (Transmission Controlled Spark) switch wires, if so equipped.
    6.  
    7. Black/white wire from the starter solenoid.
    8.  

  4.  
  5. Release the engine sub wiring harness from the clamp at the clutch housing. Remove the upper two transaxle mounting bolts.
  6.  
  7. Raise the front of the car and support it with safety stands. Drain the transaxle.
  8.  
  9. Remove the front wheels. Disconnect the speedometer cable.
  10.  

When removing the speedometer cable from the transaxle, it is not necessary to remove the entire cable holder. Remove the end boot (gear holder seal), the cable retaining clip and then pull the cable out of the holder. In no way should you disturb the holder, unless it is absolutely necessary. For further details, see the Engine Removal section.

  1. Disconnect the shift lever torque rod from the clutch housing. Remove the bolt from the shift rod clevis.
  2.  
  3. Disconnect the tie rod ball joints and remove them using a suitable ball joint remover.
  4.  
  5. Remove the lower arm ball joint bolt from the right side lower control arm, then using a puller to disconnect the ball joint from the knuckle. Remove the damper fork bolt.
  6.  
  7. Drive out the gearshift rod pin (8mm) with a drift and disconnect the rod at the transaxle case.
  8.  
  9. Disconnect the gearshift extension at the clutch housing.
  10.  
  11. Screw in the engine hanger bolts to the engine torque rod bolt hole and to the hole just to the left of the distributor. Hook a chain onto the bolts and lift the engine just enough to take the load off the engine mounts.
  12.  
  13. After making sure that the engine is properly supported, remove the two center beam-to-lower engine mount nuts. Next, remove the center beam, followed by the lower engine mount.
  14.  
  15. Reinstall the center beam (without mount) and lower the engine until it rests on the beam.
  16.  
  17. Place a jack under the transaxle and loosen the 4 attaching bolts. Using the jack to support the transaxle, slide it away from the engine and lower the jack until the transaxle clears the car.
  18.  

To install:
  1. Install the transaxle in the vehicle. Reverse all the removal procedure.
  2.  
  3. Be sure to pay attention to the following points:
    1. Tighten all mounting nuts and bolts.
    2.  
    3. Use a new shift rod pin.
    4.  
    5. After installing the driveshafts, attempt to move the inner joint housing in and out of the differential housing. If it moves easily, the driveshaft end clips should be replaced.
    6.  
    7. Make sure that the control cables and wires are properly connected.
    8.  
    9. Be sure the transaxle is refilled to the proper level.
    10.  

  4.  

OVERHAUL



See Figures 3, 4, 5 and 6

4-Speed and 5-Speed Transaxles

Use this general procedure as a guide for this type of repair. Overhaul of a manual transaxle is a complexed and time consuming repair-it is far better to replace the unit with a complete rebuilt assembly.

DISASSEMBLY
  1. Remove the transaxle end cover. Check the transaxle mainshaft and countershaft end-play. End-play should be between 0.0508-0.0762mm. If the clearance is excessive, inspect the ball bearings after transaxle disassembly.
  2.  
  3. Remove the locking tab from the mainshaft locknut. The mainshaft locknut has left hand threads. Place the transaxle in gear and place the proper size wrench on the countershaft to keep it from moving. Remove the mainshaft locknut.
  4.  

  1. Remove the mainshaft bearing and the large snapring.
  2.  
  3. Loosen the 3 shift detent lock ball screws. Remove the screws, springs and balls.
  4.  
  5. Remove the transaxle case bolts. Lightly tap the case with a hammer and drift and separate the case. Do not pry the case apart.
  6.  
  7. Remove the reverse idler gear and shaft. Remove the reverse shift fork.
  8.  
  9. Remove the shift selector assembly. If repair to the shift selector is necessary, disassemble as follows:
    1. Remove the two screws and retaining plate. Stake the screws when reinstalling.
    2.  
    3. Push the shift arm into the reverse position (towards the large spring). Then release it.
    4.  
    5. The pivot shaft holds a spring loaded detent. Do not lose the detent ball and spring when removing. Remove the pivot shaft.
    6.  
    7. Remove the interlock bar and shift arms.
    8.  
    9. During reassembly, insert a small prybar into the reverse side (large spring end) of the arm assembly to hold down the detent ball, while inserting the pivot shaft.
    10.  

  10.  
  11. Remove the shift fork retaining bolts and pull the shift shafts up until they clear the case. Remove the forks and shafts.
  12.  

When reinstalling the fork retaining bolts, turn the shaft so the threaded portion of the hole is facing away from the bolt.

  1. Remove the mainshaft and countershaft and at the same time by holding the 2 shafts and lightly taping the flywheel end of the mainshaft.
  2.  
  3. Remove the shift rod boot, shift rim, lock washer and bolt. Remove the shift rod and shift arm.
  4.  

During installation of the shift arm retaining bolt, turn the shaft so that the threaded portion of the hole is facing away from the bolt.

  1. Measure the side clearance of the low gear with a feeler gauge, if the clearance is excessive, replace the thrust plate. Perform the same measurement on the remaining gears, if the clearance is beyond the service limit, replace the bearing race (spacer).
  2.  
  3. If the countershaft must be disassembled to adjust the clearances, or replace gears, remove the locknut by installing the shaft in case and holding the differential securely.
  4.  

Place the end lugs of the holder in the case and center the lug in the hole of the differential carrier.

  1. Remove the two screws and retaining plate which hold the countershaft bearing. Remove the countershaft bearing with a bearing puller.
  2.  
  3. Clean all component parts thoroughly in the proper solvent.
  4.  
  5. Inspect the surfaces of each gear and blocking ring for roughness or damage. Apply a thin coat of oil to the tapered surfaces of each gear and push them together with a rotating motion. Measure the distance between the ring and gear. Replace all necessary parts. Clearance should be between 3.0-3.5mm.
  6.  
  7. Measure the clearance between the shift forks and synchronizer sleeves. The clearance should be between 1.0-4.5mm. If clearances are excessive, replace the shift forks, synchronizers or both.
  8.  
  9. Ensure that there are no restrictions in the oil holes on the countershaft. Check the splines for wear.
  10.  
  11. Inspect the condition of the mainshaft and countershaft bearing surfaces. Check run-out, gear tooth and spline condition.
  12.  
  13. Check the condition of all the gears. Check the condition of all bearing surfaces.
  14.  
  15. Inspect the bearing race (spacer) of each gear.
  16.  
  17. Replace all questionable parts.
  18.  



Click image to see an enlarged view

Fig. Fig. 3: Measuring the clearance between the synchronizer ring and gear hub



Click image to see an enlarged view

Fig. Fig. 4: Exploded view of housing and cover assemblies



Click image to see an enlarged view

Fig. Fig. 5: Typcial view of the manual transaxle



Click image to see an enlarged view

Fig. Fig. 6: Exploded view of mainshaft assembly

ASSEMBLY
  1. The transaxle should be assembled in the reverse order of disassembly. During assembly, note the following points:
  2.  
  3. Check the differential bearing clearance.
  4.  
  5. Apply a thin coat of oil to all parts before they are installed.
  6.  
  7. Be certain that hub and synchronizer teeth match when they are assembled.
  8.  
  9. The mainshaft and countershaft must be installed at the same time. Next, install the 3rd/4th shift fork and shaft, 1st/2nd shift fork and shaft and then the reverse shaft.
  10.  
  11. When the shift selector assembly is installed, there are two special bolts which must be inserted 1st. These bolts locate the assembly.
  12.  
  13. Lock the mainshaft and countershaft locknuts with a punch.
  14.  
  15. Make sure that the mainshaft and countershaft turn smoothly and that all gears engage freely. Check and be certain that all bolts are properly torqued.
  16.  

 
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