See Figures 1 and 2
The front brake pads may be inspected without removal. With the front end elevated and safely supported, remove the wheel(s). Unlock the steering column lock and turn the wheel so that the brake caliper is out from under the fender.
View the pads (both inner and outer) through the cut-out in the center of the caliper. Remember to look at the thickness of the pad friction material (the part that actually presses on the disc) rather than the thickness of the backing plate which does not change with wear. Replace the brake pads if the remaining lining is below 3 / 32 in. (2.4mm).
Remember that you are looking at the profile of the pad, not the whole thing. Brake pads can wear on a taper which may not be visible through the window. It is also not possible to check the contact surface for cracking or scoring from this position. This quick check can be helpful only as a reference; detailed inspection requires pad removal.
REMOVAL & INSTALLATION
See Figures 3, 4, 5, 6 and 7
- If equipped with an air bag, disconnect the negative battery cable and properly disable the Supplemental Restraint System (SRS), as detailed in Chassis Electrical .
- Loosen the lug nuts, then raise and support the vehicle safely.
- Remove the wheel.
- As required, separate the brake hose clamp from the strut or knuckle by removing the retaining bolts.
- Remove the lower caliper retaining bolt and pivot the caliper upward, off the pads.
- Remove the pads, shims and pad retainers.
- Clean the caliper thoroughly; remove any rust from the lip of the disc or rotor. Check the brake rotor for grooves or cracks. If any heavy scoring is present, the rotor must be replaced.
- Install the pad retainers. Apply a brake-quiet compound (available at most auto parts strores) to both surfaces of the shims and the back of the disc brake pads. Do not get the compound on the braking surface of the pad.
- Install the pads and shims. The pad with the wear indicator goes in the inboard position.
- Push in the caliper piston so the caliper will fit over the pads. This is most easily accomplished with a large C-clamp. As the piston is forced back into the caliper, fluid will be forced back into the master cylinder reservoir. It may be necessary to siphon some fluid out to prevent overflowing.
- Pivot the caliper down into position and tighten the mounting bolt to 33 ft. lbs. (45 Nm).
- Connect the brake hose to the strut or knuckle, if removed. Install the wheel and lower the vehicle to the ground.
- Check the master cylinder and add fluid as required, then install the master cylinder cover.
- Depress the brake pedal several times and make sure that the movement feels normal. The first brake pedal application may result in a very "long" pedal due to the pistons being retracted. Always make several brake applications before starting the vehicle. Bleeding is not usually necessary after pad replacement.
Braking should be moderate for the first 5 miles or so until the new pads seat correctly. The new pads will bed best if put through several moderate heating and cooling cycles. Avoid hard braking until the brakes have experienced several long, slow stops with time to cool in between. Taking the time to properly bed the brakes will yield quieter operation, more efficient stopping and contribute to extended brake life.
- If equipped, enable the SRS system and connect the negative battery cable.