Honda Accord/Prelude 1984-1995 Repair Guide



The introductory part of this information for 1984-95 Accord and Prelude is intended to teach you about the inner workings of your car and save you money on its upkeep.

The first two sections will be the most used, since they contain maintenance and tune-up information and procedures. Studies have shown that a properly tuned and maintained vehicle can get better gas mileage (which translates into lower operating costs). Periodic maintenance can catch minor problems before they turn into major repair bills. The other sections deal with the more complex systems of your Honda.

Operating systems from engine through brakes are covered to the extent that the average do-it-yourselfer becomes mechanically involved. This information will not explain such things as rebuilding the differential for the simple reason that the expertise required and the investment in special tools make this task impractical and uneconomical. It will give you the detailed instructions to help you change your own brake pads or shoes, tune the engine, replace spark plugs and filters, and perform many more jobs that will save you money, give you personal satisfaction and help you avoid expensive problems.

A secondary purpose of this information is a reference guide for owners who want to understand their Honda and/or their mechanics better. In this case, no tools at all are required. Knowing just what a particular job requires in parts and labor time will allow you to evaluate whether you're getting a fair price quote and help decipher itemized bills from a repair shop.

Before attempting any repairs or service on your car, read through the entire procedure outlined in the appropriate section. This will give you the overall view of what tools and supplies will be required. There is nothing more frustrating than having to walk to the bus stop on Monday morning because you were short one gasket on Sunday afternoon. So read ahead and plan ahead. Each operation should be approached logically and all procedures thoroughly understood before attempting any work. Some special tools that may be required can often be rented from local automotive jobbers or places specializing in renting tools and equipment. Check the yellow pages of your phone book.

All sections contain adjustments, maintenance, removal/installation, and overhaul procedures. When overhaul is not considered practical, we tell you how to remove the failed part and then how to install the new or rebuilt replacement. In this way, you at least save the labor costs. Backyard overhaul of some components (such as the alternator or water pump) is not practical, but the removal and installation procedure is often simple and well within the capabilities of the average vehicle owner.

Many procedures in this information require you to "label and disconnect ..." a group of lines, hoses or wires. Don't be lulled into thinking you can remember where everything goes-you won't. If you hook up vacuum or fuel lines incorrectly, the car will run poorly, if at all. If you hook up electrical wiring incorrectly, you may instantly learn a very expensive lesson.

You don't need to know the official or engineering name for each hose or line. A piece of masking tape on the hose and a piece on its fitting will allow you assign your own label such as the letter A or a short name. As long as you remember your own code, the lines can be reconnected by matching similar letters or names. Do remember that tape will dissolve in gasoline or other fluids; if a component is to be washed or cleaned, use another method of identification. A permanent felt-tipped marker can be very handy for marking metal parts. Remove any tape or paper labels after assembly.

It's necessary to mention the difference between maintenance and repair. Maintenance includes routine inspections, adjustments, and replacement of parts which show signs of normal wear. Maintenance compensates for wear or deterioration. Repair implies that something has broken or is not working. Need for repair is often caused by lack of maintenance. Example: draining and refilling the automatic transaxle fluid is maintenance recommended by the manufacturer at specific mileage intervals. Failure to do this can ruin the transaxle, requiring very expensive repairs. While no maintenance program can prevent items from breaking or wearing out, a general rule can be stated: MAINTENANCE IS CHEAPER THAN REPAIR.

Hondas have a well-earned reputation for reliability and long service. They are, however, maintenance sensitive. A poorly maintained car will not operate to your satisfaction. Invest the time, effort and dollars in maintaining the car at the proper intervals, regardless of what you think it "needs." The minimal investment in maintenance will be paid back over years of continued operation.

Some basic mechanic's rules should be learned. One, whenever the left side of the car is mentioned, it means the driver's side of the car regardless of how you view the car. Conversely, the right side of the car means the passenger's side of the car. Second, most screws and bolts are removed by turning counterclockwise and tightened by turning clockwise.

Safety is the most important rule. Constantly be aware of the dangers involved in working on a vehicle and take the proper precautions. Think ahead, work slowly, and anticipate problems before they occur. Use jackstands when working under a raised vehicle. Don't smoke or allow an exposed flame to come near the battery or any parts of the fuel system. If you are using a kerosene heater during the winter, always turn it off or put it well away from the car when charging the battery or performing any item that could release liquid gasoline or gasoline vapors.

Use the proper tool and use it correctly. Bruised knuckles and skinned fingers aren't a mechanic's standard equipment. See the information in this section "Servicing Your Vehicle Safely" and the safety notice on the acknowledgment page before attempting any service procedures. Pay attention to the instructions provided.

There are 3 common mistakes in mechanical work:

  1. Incorrect order of assembly, disassembly or adjustment. When taking something apart or putting it together, doing things in the wrong order usually costs extra time, however, it can also break something. Read the entire procedure before beginning disassembly. Perform each step in the order in which the instructions say you should, even if you can't immediately see a reason. When you're taking apart something that is very intricate (for example a carburetor), you might want to draw a picture of how it looks when assembled at one point in order to make sure you get everything back in its proper position. We will supply exploded views whenever possible, but sometimes the job requires more attention to detail than an illustration provides. When making adjustments (especially tune-up adjustments), perform them in order. One adjustment often affects another and you cannot expect satisfactory results unless each adjustment is made only when it cannot be changed by any other.
  3. Overtightening (or undertightening) nuts and bolts. While it is more common for overtorquing to cause damage, undertorquing can cause a fastener to vibrate loose and cause serious damage, especially when dealing with aluminum parts. Pay attention to torque specifications and use a torque wrench in assembly. If a torque figure is not available, remember that if you are using the right tool to do the job, you will probably not have to strain yourself to get a fastener tight enough. The pitch of most threads is so slight that the tension you put on the wrench will be multiplied many times in actual force on what you are tightening.

An example of the importance of torque can be seen in the case of spark plug installation, especially when installing the plug into an aluminum cylinder head. Too little torque can fail to crush the gasket, causing leakage of combustion gases and consequent overheating of the plug and engine parts. Too much torque can damage the threads or distort the plug, which changes the spark gap at the electrode. Since more and more manufacturers are using aluminum in their engine and chassis parts to save weight, a torque wrench should be in any serious do-it-yourselfer's tool box.

There are many commercial chemical products available for ensuring that fasteners won't come loose, even if they are not torqued just right (a very common brand is Loctite®). If you're worried about getting something together tight enough to hold, but loose enough to avoid mechanical damage during assembly, one of these products might offer substantial insurance. Read the label on the package and make sure the product is compatible with the materials, fluids, etc. involved before choosing one.

  1. Crossthreading. This occurs when a part such as a bolt is screwed into a nut or casting at the wrong angle and forced, causing the threads to become damaged. Crossthreading is more likely to occur if access is difficult. It helps to clean and lubricate fasteners, and to start threading with the part to be installed going straight in, using your fingers. If you encounter resistance, unscrew the part and start over again at a different angle until it can be inserted and turned several times without much effort.

Keep in mind that many parts, especially spark plugs, use tapered threads so that gentle turning will automatically bring the part you're threading to the proper angle if you don't force it or resist a change in angle. Don't put a wrench on the part until it's been turned in a couple of times by hand. If you suddenly encounter resistance and the part has not seated fully, don't force it. Pull it back out and make sure it's clean and threading properly.

Always take your time and be patient; once you have some experience, working on your Honda may become an enjoyable hobby.