Honda Accord/Prelude 1984-1995 Repair Guide



See Figures 1, 2, 3, 4, 5, 6, 7, 8, 9, 10, 11 and 12

Naturally, without the proper tools and equipment it is impossible to properly service your vehicle. It would be impossible to catalog each tool that you would need to perform every operation in this information. It would also be unwise for the amateur to rush out and buy an expensive set of tools on the theory that he may need one or more of them at sometime.

The best approach is to proceed slowly, gathering together a good quality set of those tools that are used most frequently. Don't be misled by the low cost of bargain tools. It is far better to spend a little more for better quality. Forged wrenches, 6 or 12-point sockets and fine-toothed ratchets are by far preferable to their less expensive counterparts. As any good mechanic can tell you, there are few worse experiences than trying to work on a vehicle with bad tools. Your monetary savings will be far outweighed by frustration and mangled knuckles.

Certain tools, plus a basic ability to handle tools, are required to get started. A basic mechanics' tool set, a torque wrench and a Torx® bit set. Torx® bits are hex lobular drivers which fit both inside and outside on special Torx® head fasteners used in various places on some vehicles.

Begin accumulating those tools that are used most frequently; those associated with routine maintenance and tune-up.

In addition to the normal assortment of screwdrivers and pliers, you should have the following tools for routine maintenance jobs. Virtually every fastener on your Accord or Prelude is metric, although dealer and aftermarket equipment may use SAE (US) hardware.

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Fig. Fig. 1: All but the most basic procedures will require an assortment of rachets and sockets

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Fig. Fig. 2: In addition to rachets, a good set of wrenches and hex keys will be necessary

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Fig. Fig. 3: An assortment of pliers will be handy, especially for old rusted parts and stripped bolt heads

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Fig. Fig. 4: Various screwdrivers, a hammer, chisels and prybars are necessary to have in your toolbox

SAE and Metric wrenches, sockets and combination (open end/box end) wrenches in sizes from 1 / 8 in. (3mm) to 3 / 4 in. (19mm), and a spark plug socket ( 13 / 16 in. or 5 / 8 in.). If possible, buy various length socket drive extensions. One break in this department is that the metric sockets available in the U.S. will all fit the ratchet handles and extensions you may already have ( 1 / 4 in., 3 / 8 in., and 1 / 2 in. drive). Many retail stores run periodic sales on starter sets of wrenches. Although a starter set may not contain every piece you want or need, once the basic set is purchased, specific items may be purchased individually.

Jackstands for supporting the vehicle.
Oil filter wrench.
Oil filler spout or funnel.
Small oil can and can(s) of spray grease.
Hydrometer for checking the battery.
A low flat pan for draining oil.
Lots of rags for wiping up the inevitable mess.

In addition to the above items there are several others that are not absolutely necessary, but handy to have around. These include oil-dry or cat litter for absorbing spilled fluid, a transmission/transaxle fluid funnel and the usual supply of lubricants, antifreeze and fluids, although these can be purchased as needed. This is a basic list for routine maintenance, but only your personal needs and desires can accurately determine your list of necessary tools.

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Fig. Fig. 5: A hydraulic floor jack and a set of jackstands are essential for lifting and supporting the vehicle

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Fig. Fig. 6: A few inexpensive lubrication tools will make regular service easier

After performing a few projects on the car, you'll be amazed at the other tools and non-tools on your workbench. Some useful household items to have around are: a large turkey baster or siphon, empty coffee cans and ice trays (to store parts), ball of twine, electrical tape for wiring, small rolls of colored tape for tagging lines or hoses, markers and pens, a note pad, golf tees (for plugging vacuum lines), metal coat hangers or a roll of mechanics's wire (holding things out of the way), whisk broom, dental pick or similar long, pointed probe, a strong magnet, and a small mirror (for seeing into recesses and under manifolds).

The second list of tools is for tune-ups. While the tools involved here are slightly more sophisticated, they need not be outrageously expensive. There are several inexpensive tach/dwell meters on the market that are every bit as good for the average mechanic as a more expensive professional model. Just be sure that it goes to at least 1200-1500 rpm on the tach scale and that it works on 4-cylinder engines. A basic list of tune-up equipment could include:

Tach-dwell meter.
Spark plug wrench.
Timing light (a DC light that works from the battery is best, although an AC light that plugs into 110V house current will suffice at some sacrifice in brightness). Almost all the timing lights available now come with inductive pickups-make sure your's does. This neat little time-saver allows the probe to be clipped over the spark plug wire rather than having to disconnect a spark plug wire. Work smarter, not harder.
Wire spark plug gauge/adjusting tools.
Set of feeler blades and/or spark plug gap adjusting tool.

In addition to these basic tools, there are several other tools and gauges you may find useful. These include:

A compression gauge. The screw-in type is slower to use, but eliminates the possibility of a faulty reading due to escaping pressure. The press-in type is quicker but may be less accurate. Additionally, the press-type may not be usable on certain engines with deeply recessed spark plug holes.
A manifold vacuum gauge.
A test light.
An induction meter. This is used for determining whether or not there is current in a wire. These are handy for use if a wire is broken somewhere in a wiring harness.
In this age of electronics, almost any diagnosis will require either a voltmeter or an ohmmeter. Happily, these tools are often combined into a volt-ohmmeter or VOM. The analog or sweep-needle type is adequate for most diagnostic work. If any work is to be done on solid-state electronic equipment or circuits, a high-impedance digital volt-ohmmeter (DVOM) is required. Small analog meters are fairly inexpensive, although a larger one is easier to read and may have more scales and functions. DVOM's are more costly, but can be used in much wider applications.

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Fig. Fig. 7: A common dwell/tachometer

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Fig. Fig. 8: Inductive type timing light

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Fig. Fig. 9: A variety of tools and gauges are needed for spark plug service

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Fig. Fig. 10: Compression gauge and a combination vacuum/fuel pressure gauge

As a final note, you will probably find a torque wrench necessary for all but the most basic work. The beam type models are perfectly adequate, although the newer click (breakaway) type are more precise and you don't have to crane your neck to see a torque reading in awkward situations. But, the breakaway torque wrenches are more expensive.

A good torque wrench will be fairly expensive. Once purchased, treat it with care. Its accuracy can be altered by dropping it, prying with it or subjecting it to other workshop torture. Keep it out of the way until needed. Don't use the torque wrench for non-torquing applications; use a regular ratchet. Breakaway torque wrenches should be dialed back to zero after use in order to preserve their adjustment. One final note, all torque wrenches should be recalibrated periodically.

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Fig. Fig. 11: Many repairs will require the use of a torque wrench to assure the components are properly fastened

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Fig. Fig. 12: Many times, the factory special tool is no more than a simple clamp, separator or puller. However, make sure your tool is truly its equivalent

Torque specification for each fastener will be given in the procedure in any case that a specific torque value is required. If no torque specifications are given, use the following values as a guide, based upon fastener size:

Bolts marked 6T

6mm bolt/nut-5-7 ft. lbs. (4-5 Nm)
8mm bolt/nut-12-17 ft. lbs. (9-13 Nm)
10mm bolt/nut-23-34 ft. lbs. (17-25 Nm)
12mm bolt/nut-41-59 ft. lbs. (30-44 Nm)
14mm bolt/nut-56-76 ft. lbs. (41-56 Nm)

Bolts marked 8T

6mm bolt/nut-6-9 ft. lbs. (4-7 Nm)
8mm bolt/nut-13-20 ft. lbs. (10-15 Nm)
10mm bolt/nut-27-40 ft. lbs. (20-30 Nm)
12mm bolt/nut-46-69 ft. lbs. (34-51 Nm)
14mm bolt/nut-75-101 ft. lbs. (55-75 Nm)