REMOVAL & INSTALLATION
The radio may have a coded theft protection circuit. Make sure you have the code before disconnecting the battery, removing the radio fuse, or removing the radio.
When removing the transaxle to replace the clutch disk, always replace the clutch disk, release bearing, pilot bearing and pressure plate. Often times these components are sold more economically as a clutch kit.
If the flywheel is damaged or excessively worn, check to see if the flywheel is sold with the clutch replacement parts as a kit. Usually it is more cost effective to buy a complete kit than to purchase the parts individually.
If a flywheel with surface irregularities is reused, it is very likely that when driving, the clutch will chatter as it is engaged.
Try to avoid the use of rebuilt parts, as at times, the expense saved on parts may be far less justified than the labor cost (or time) to do the job a second time.
- Disconnect the negative battery cable.
- Raise and safely support the vehicle.
- Remove the transaxle from the vehicle, as outlined earlier in this section. Matchmark the flywheel and clutch for reassembly.
- Use a flywheel ring-gear holder to lock the flywheel in position.
- Loosen the pressure plate bolts two turns at a time working in a crisscross pattern to prevent warping the pressure plate. Remove the pressure plate and clutch disc.
- Inspect the flywheel, disc, and pressure plate for wear, cracks, and warpage. Light scoring of the flywheel may be polished out; gouges, warpage, burn marks, cracks, or chipped teeth require replacement of the flywheel.
If the flywheel is to be removed, but is going to be reused, matchmark it to the engine block prior to removal. Aligning the matchmarks upon reassembly will preserve driveline balance.
- Inspect the flywheel's ball bearing: turn the inner race of the bearing with your finger, and be sure it turns smoothly and quietly. If the bearing is loose or noisy, or exhibits rough motion, replace it.
- Remove the release fork boot. Squeeze the release fork retaining spring to disengage the fork from its pivot. Remove the release fork from the clutch housing.
- Remove the release bearing. Spin the bearing by hand to check its degree of play. Replace the release bearing if it has excessive play or is leaking grease.
- Inspect the rear main bearing oil seal for signs of leakage. If necessary, replace the seal to prevent oil leakage onto the clutch's friction surfaces.
- If necessary, drive out the flywheel bearing, then use a suitably-sized bearing driver to install a new one. Use a crisscross pattern to tighten the flywheel mounting bolts in several steps to 87 ft. lbs. (118 Nm).
- Install the clutch disc and pressure plate by aligning the dowels on the flywheel with the dowel holes in the pressure plate. If a new pressure plate is not being installed, align the matchmarks that were made during removal. Install and hand-tighten the pressure plate bolts.
- Insert a suitable clutch disc alignment tool into the splined hole in the clutch disc. Align the clutch and pressure plate.
- Tighten the pressure plate bolts in a crisscross pattern two turns at a time to prevent warping the pressure plate. The final torque is 19 ft. lbs. (26 Nm).
- Remove the alignment tool and ring gear holder.
- Coat the mainshaft with heavy-duty high-temperature grease. The manufacturer recommends part No. 08798-9002, Honda super high-temp urea grease.
- Coat the release fork pawls and the inner race of the release bearing with high temperature grease and install them into the clutch housing. Be sure the release fork retainer spring snaps into place on the pivot. The bearing and fork must fit together properly and slide back and forth smoothly.
- Coat the tip of the slave cylinder with grease. Install the release fork boot.
- Install the transaxle, making sure the mainshaft is properly aligned with the clutch disc splines, and the transaxle case dowels are properly aligned with the engine block.
- Install the transaxle case bolts and sequentially tighten them to 47 ft. lbs. (65 Nm).
- Bleed the clutch hydraulic system.
- Adjust the clutch pedal free-play.
- Verify that all engine and transaxle components are installed and connected properly.
- Reconnect the negative battery cable.
- Road test the vehicle.
Clutch Pedal Free-Play
The hydraulic clutch is self-adjusting to compensate for wear.
- Loosen the locknut at the base of the clutch switch (or the cruise control, if equipped), or the adjusting bolt that contacts the clutch pedal when the pedal is fully released. Back off the switch or adjustment bolt until it no longer contacts the clutch pedal.
- Loosen the locknut at the rear of the pushrod for the clutch master cylinder.
Turn the clutch master cylinder pushrod in or out until:
The clutch pedal height from the floor is 7 3 / 16 inches (183mm).
- Tighten the pushrod locknut.
- Thread in the clutch switch or adjusting bolt until it contacts the clutch pedal, then thread the component an additional 3 / 4 -1 turn, and tighten the locknut.
- Loosen the locknut on the clutch interlock switch.
- Measure the clearance between the clutch pedal and the floor board with the clutch pedal fully depressed.
- Allow the clutch pedal to rise from the floor until it is 9 / 16 - 3 / 4 inches (15-20mm) above the full bottom measurement.
- Adjust the interlock switch so that the engine will start from this position.
- Turn the interlock switch in an additional 3 / 4 -1 turn, and tighten the locknut.
- Tighten the locknut to secure the clutch interlock switch in this position.