ISUZU Amigo/Pick-ups/Rodeo/Trooper 1981-1996

Front Wheel Bearings

Print

This procedure is accurate for 2-wheel drive Isuzu trucks and sport utility vehicles. For the bearings on 4-wheel drive vehicles, refer to Drive Train .

Once every 30,000 miles (48,000 km), clean and repack wheel bearings with a GM Wheel Bearing Grease No. 1051344 or No. 1052497 for the Hombre vehicles, or with a high temperature multipurpose grease (NLPI No. 2) grease for the Pick-up, Amigo and Rodeo (the Trooper is only available with 4-wheel drive). It is wise to perform this service more often if the vehicle is subject to heavy use such as towing a trailer. Use only enough grease to completely coat the rollers.

It is important that wheel bearings be properly adjusted after installation. Improperly adjusted wheel bearings can cause steering instability, front-end shimmy and wander, and increased tire wear. Properly adjusted bearings have a slightly loose feeling. Wheel bearings must never be preloaded in service. Preloading will damage the bearings and eventually the spindles. If the bearings are too loose, they should be cleaned, inspected and then adjusted.

Hold the tire at the top and bottom and move the wheel in and out of the spindle. If the movement is greater than 0.005 in. (0.127mm), the bearings are too loose and must be adjusted.

Before handling the bearings, there are a few things that you should remember to do and and few things you should not.

Always remember to DO the following:


Remove all outside dirt from the housing before exposing the bearing.
 
Treat a used bearing as gently as you would a new one.
 
Work with clean tools in clean surroundings.
 
Use clean, dry canvas gloves, or at least clean, dry hands.
 
Clean solvents and flushing fluids are a must.
 
Use clean paper when laying out the bearings to dry.
 
Protect disassembled bearings from rust and dirt. Cover them up.
 
Use clean rags to wipe bearings.
 
Keep the bearings in oil-proof paper when they are to be stored or are not in use.
 
Clean the inside of the housing before replacing the bearing.There are also a few things NOT to do:
 
Don't work in dirty surroundings.
 
Don't use dirty, chipped or damaged tools.
 
Try not to work on wooden work benches or use wooden mallets.
 
Don't handle bearings with dirty or moist hands.
 
Do not use gasoline for cleaning; use a safe solvent.
 
Do not spin-dry bearings with compressed air. They will be damaged.
 
Do not spin dirty bearings.
 
Avoid using cotton waste or dirty cloths to wipe bearings.
 
Try not to scratch or nick bearing surfaces.
 
Do not allow the bearing to come in contact with dirt or rust at any time.
 

REMOVAL, REPACKING AND INSTALLATION



Pick-up

See Figures 1, 2, 3, 4, 5 and 6



Click image to see an enlarged view

Fig. Fig. 1: Use a prytool to remove the dust cover from the hub assembly-take care not to distort it



Click image to see an enlarged view

Fig. Fig. 2: Use a brass drift or punch to tap out the outer (1) and inner (2) wheel bearing races



Click image to see an enlarged view

Fig. Fig. 3: Use the special tools J-29017 and J-8092, or their equivalents, to install the new oil seal-2-wheel drive Pick-up models



Click image to see an enlarged view

Fig. Fig. 4: Apply liberal amounts of the high temperature NLPI No. 2 grease to the shaded areas of the hub and bearings



Click image to see an enlarged view

Fig. Fig. 5: To properly adjust the bearing preload, the use of a spring scale is essential



Click image to see an enlarged view

Fig. Fig. 6: Exploded view of the front wheel hub and bearings-2-wheel drive Pick-up models


CAUTION
Brake pads may contain asbestos, which has been determined to be a cancer causing agent. Never clean the brake surfaces with compressed air! Avoid inhaling any dust from any brake surface! When cleaning brake surfaces, use a commercially available brake cleaning fluid.

  1. Raise and safely support the vehicle. Remove the wheel assembly.
  2.  
  3. Remove the front disc brake caliper, as outlined in Brakes of this repair guide. The brake caliper need only be removed from the rotor; suspend it from the vehicle's frame with strong cord or wire and with the hydraulic brake fluid lines attached.
  4.  
  5. Remove the dust cap from the rotor/hub assembly by prying a little at a time, moving around the cap.
  6.  

When prying the dust cap off of the hub, be careful not to distort the cap sealing face.

  1. Remove the cotter pin, nut retainer (if equipped), hub nut, lockwasher and outer roller bearing assembly from the hub. Carefully pull the hub off of the spindle without dragging the inner bearings against the smooth area of the spindle.
  2.  
  3. Using a prytool, pry the inner bearing lip seal out of the inboard side of the hub, then remove the inner bearing assembly with your fingers.
  4.  
  5. Wash all parts in a cleaning solvent and dry with compressed air. Do NOT allow the bearings to spin while drying them with the compressed air.
  6.  
  7. Check the bearings for pitting or scoring. Also check for smooth rotation and lack of noise as follows:
    1. Once the bearings and bearing races, located in the hub assembly, have been cleaned of all old grease and build up, oil the bearings with regular, clean engine oil.
    2.  
    3. Position each bearing, one at a time, in its respective bearing race. Provide slight inward pressure and turn the bearings.
    4.  
    5. While pressing in and rotating the bearings, note how they turn in the bearing races. The bearings should turn smoothly and evenly.
    6.  
    7. If the bearings turn irregularly or make noises while rotating, they must be replaced with new ones. Any time the bearings are replaced, the bearing races should also be replaced.
    8.  

  8.  

Special installation tools (J-29016 and J-29015 or equivalents) are necessary to assemble new bearing races into the hub assembly.

  1. If necessary, remove the bearing races as follows:
    1. Place the hub assembly on a piece of clean cardboard with the outboard side facing down.
    2.  
    3. Using a long, brass drift pin or punch, tap the outer bearing race out of the hub assembly. It will be necessary to work the punch around the bearing in a circular motion, otherwise the bearing race can become excessive cocked in the hub bore; this makes removal almost impossible. If this happens, simply tap on the opposite side of the bearing race until it has leveled out in the bore.
    4.  
    5. After the outer bearing race is removed, flip the hub over and perform the same with the inner bearing race.
    6.  

  2.  

To install:
  1. If necessary, install the new inner and outer bearing races as follows:
    1. Position the hub assembly with the outboard face down.
    2.  
    3. Insert the bearing race into the hub bore as level as possible.
    4.  
    5. Drive the new inner bearing race into the bore with special tool J-29016 and J-8092, or equivalent, until completely seated.
    6.  
    7. Flip the hub assembly over and drive the outer bearing race into the hub using special tool J-29015 and J-8092, or equivalents.
    8.  

  2.  
  3. Pressure pack the bearings with high temperature wheel bearing grease. If a bearing packer is not available, pack the bearings with your hands. Make sure that the bearings are completely packed with as much grease as possible; work the grease into the bearings and cage until full.
  4.  
  5. Position the inner bearing in the bearing race.
  6.  
  7. Using special tools J-29017 and J-8092, or equivalents, install the inner oil seal into the hub assembly.
  8.  
  9. Apply grease to the spindle and inside surface of the hub (shaded areas in the illustration).
  10.  
  11. Install the hub assembly on the spindle.
  12.  
  13. Install the outer wheel bearing, lockwasher and adjust the hub nut as follows:
    1. Tighten the hub nut to 22 ft. lbs. (30 Nm).
    2.  
    3. Turn the hub 2 or 3 times, then loosen the hub nut just enough so that it can be turned with your fingers.
    4.  
    5. Tighten the nut as much as possible using only your fingers.
    6.  
    7. Grasp the rotor and wiggle to ensure that there is no bearing free-play. If free-play is evident, tighten it more with your fingers.
    8.  
    9. Measure the bearing preload by pulling on one of the wheel hub studs with a spring scale. Measure the amount force necessary to rotate the hub. The force required should be 1.8-2.2 lbs. (0.8-1.0 kg).
    10.  
    11. Tighten the hub nut until the specified bearing preload is obtained.
    12.  

  14.  
  15. Install a new cotter pin and the dust cap on the hub.
  16.  
  17. Install the brake caliper and support assembly.
  18.  
  19. Install the wheel assembly.
  20.  

Amigo and Rodeo

See Figures 2, 5, 7, 8 and 9



Click image to see an enlarged view

Fig. Fig. 7: Exploded view of the front wheel bearings and hub assembly-2-wheel drive Amigo and Rodeo models



Click image to see an enlarged view

Fig. Fig. 8: The special hub nut wrench is needed to remove the hub nut-2-wheel drive Amigo and Rodeo models



Click image to see an enlarged view

Fig. Fig. 9: When installing the lockwasher, it is essential to properly align it with the hub nut-2-wheel drive Amigo and Rodeo models


CAUTION
Brake pads may contain asbestos, which has been determined to be a cancer causing agent. Never clean the brake surfaces with compressed air! Avoid inhaling any dust from any brake surface! When cleaning brake surfaces, use a commercially available brake cleaning fluid.

  1. Raise and safely support the vehicle. Remove the wheel assembly.
  2.  
  3. Remove the front disc brake caliper, as outlined in Brakes of this repair guide. The brake caliper need only be removed from the rotor; suspend it from the vehicle's frame with strong cord or wire and with the hydraulic brake fluid lines attached.
  4.  
  5. Remove the 6 hub end cover retaining bolts, then remove the hub end cover.
  6.  
  7. Remove the lockwasher, then remove the hub nut using the front hub nut wrench J-36827, or equivalent. Carefully pull the hub off of the spindle without dragging the bearings against the smooth area of the spindle.
  8.  
  9. Remove the outer bearings with your fingers.
  10.  
  11. Using a prytool, pry the inner bearing lip oil seal out of the inboard side of the hub, then remove the inner bearing assembly with your fingers.
  12.  

  1. Wash all parts in a cleaning solvent and dry with compressed air. Do NOT allow the bearings to spin while drying them with the compressed air.
  2.  
  3. Check the bearings for pitting or scoring. Also check for smooth rotation and lack of noise as follows:
    1. Once the bearings and bearing races, located in the hub assembly, have been cleaned of all old grease and build up, oil the bearings with regular, clean engine oil.
    2.  
    3. Position each bearing, one at a time, in its respective bearing race. Provide slight inward pressure and turn the bearings.
    4.  
    5. While pressing in and rotating the bearings, note how they turn in the bearing races. The bearings should turn smoothly and evenly.
    6.  
    7. If the bearings turn irregularly or make noises while rotating, they must be replaced with new ones. Any time the bearings are replaced, the bearing races should also be replaced.
    8.  

  4.  

Special installation tools (J-29016 and J-29015 or equivalents) are necessary to assemble new bearing races into the hub assembly.

  1. Inspect the bearing races for excessive wear or scratching. If any damage is evident, the bearing races and bearings must be replaced.
  2.  
  3. To remove the bearing races, proceed as follows:
    1. Place the hub assembly on a piece of clean cardboard with the outboard side facing down.
    2.  
    3. Using a long, brass drift pin or punch, tap the outer bearing race out of the hub assembly. It will be necessary to work the punch around the bearing in a circular motion, otherwise the bearing race can become excessive cocked in the hub bore; this makes removal almost impossible. If this happens, simply tap on the opposite side of the bearing race until it has leveled out in the bore.
    4.  
    5. After the outer bearing race is removed, flip the hub over and perform the same with the inner bearing race.
    6.  

  4.  

To install:
  1. If necessary, install the new inner and outer bearing races as follows:
    1. Position the hub assembly with the outboard face down.
    2.  
    3. Insert the bearing race into the hub bore as level as possible.
    4.  
    5. Drive the new inner bearing race into the bore with special tool J-36829 and J-8092, or equivalent, until completely seated.
    6.  
    7. Flip the hub assembly over and drive the outer bearing race into the backside of the hub using special tool J-29015 and J-8092, or equivalents.
    8.  

  2.  
  3. Pressure pack the bearings with high temperature wheel bearing grease (NLGI No. 2). If a bearing packer is not available, pack the bearings with your hands. Make sure that the bearings are completely packed with as much grease as possible; work the grease into the bearings and cage until full.
  4.  
  5. Position the inner bearing in the bearing race.
  6.  
  7. Using special tools J-36830 and J-8092, or equivalents, install the inner oil seal into the hub assembly. Apply the multipurpose grease to the lip of the oil seal.
  8.  
  9. Apply an ample amount of grease to the spindle and inside surface of the hub (shaded areas in the illustration).
  10.  
  11. Install the hub assembly on the spindle.
  12.  
  13. Install the outer wheel bearing, then install the hub nut by turning the place where there is a chamfer in the tapped hole to the outer side and install the nut. Use the special wrench J-36827, or equivalent, to tighten the hub nut.
  14.  
  15. Adjust the front wheel bearing preload as follows:
    1. Tighten the hub nut to 22 ft. lbs. (30 Nm).
    2.  
    3. Turn the hub 2 or 3 times, then loosen the hub nut just enough so that it can be turned with your fingers.
    4.  
    5. Tighten the nut as much as possible using only your fingers.
    6.  
    7. Grasp the rotor and wiggle to ensure that there is no bearing free-play. If free-play is evident, tighten it more with your fingers.
    8.  
    9. Measure the bearing preload by pulling on one of the wheel hub studs with a spring scale. Measure the amount force necessary to rotate the hub. The force required should be 4.4-5.5 lbs. (2.0-2.5 kg) for new bearings, or 2.6-4.0 lbs. (1.2-1.8 kg) for used bearings.
    10.  
    11. If the measured bearing preload is outside of the specifications, adjust it by loosening or tightening the bearing nut.
    12.  

  16.  
  17. Install the lockwasher by turning the side with the larger diameter of the tapered bore to the vehicle outer side, and attach the washer. If the bolt holes in the lockplate are not aligned with the corresponding holes in the nut, reverse the lockplate. If the bolt holes are still out of alignment, turn in the hub nut just enough to obtain alignment. The bolt is to be fastened tightly so that its head will be lower than the surface of the washer.
  18.  
  19. Install the hub end cover and the 6 retaining bolts.
  20.  
  21. Install the brake caliper and support assembly.
  22.  
  23. Install the wheel assembly.
  24.  

Hombre

See Figures 10 through 27



Click image to see an enlarged view

Fig. Fig. 10: Exploded view of the front wheel hub and bearings-Hombre models



Click image to see an enlarged view

Fig. Fig. 11: Use the special tool J-29117, or equivalent, to pry out the old oil seal from the hub



Click image to see an enlarged view

Fig. Fig. 12: The inner bearing race should be driven into the hub with the tools shown



Click image to see an enlarged view

Fig. Fig. 13: Make sure to drive the outer bearing into the hub assembly until seated fully



Click image to see an enlarged view

Fig. Fig. 14: Pry the dust cap from the hub taking care not to distort or damage its flange



Click image to see an enlarged view

Fig. Fig. 15: Once the bent ends are cut, grasp the cotter pin and pull or pry it free of the spindle



Click image to see an enlarged view

Fig. Fig. 16: If difficulty is encountered, gently tap on the pliers with a hammer to help free the cotter pin



Click image to see an enlarged view

Fig. Fig. 17: Loosen and remove the castellated nut from the spindle



Click image to see an enlarged view

Fig. Fig. 18: Remove the washer from the spindle



Click image to see an enlarged view

Fig. Fig. 19: With the nut and washer out of the way, the outer bearings may be removed from the hub



Click image to see an enlarged view

Fig. Fig. 20: Pull the hub and inner bearing assembly from the spindle



Click image to see an enlarged view

Fig. Fig. 21: Use a small prytool, if Tool J-29117 isn't available, to remove the old inner bearing seal



Click image to see an enlarged view

Fig. Fig. 22: With the seal removed, the inner bearing may be withdrawn from the hub



Click image to see an enlarged view

Fig. Fig. 23: Thoroughly pack the bearing with fresh, high temperature wheel-bearing grease before installation



Click image to see an enlarged view

Fig. Fig. 24: Apply a thin coat of fresh grease to the new inner bearing seal lip



Click image to see an enlarged view

Fig. Fig. 25: Use a suitably sized driver to install the inner bearing seal to the hub



Click image to see an enlarged view

Fig. Fig. 26: Tighten the nut while gently spinning the wheel, then adjust the bearings



Click image to see an enlarged view

Fig. Fig. 27: Install the cap by gently tapping on the edge-DO NOT damage it by hammering on the center

If the bearings are to be replaced, the following procedure recommends the use of GM tools No. J-29117, J-8092, J-8850, J-8457, J-9746-02 or their equivalents.

  1. Raise and support the front of the vehicle safely using jackstands.
  2.  
  3. Remove the tire and wheel assembly.
  4.  
  5. Remove the brake caliper mounting bolts and carefully remove the caliper (along with the brake pads) from the rotor. Do not disconnect the brake line; instead wire the caliper out of the way with the line still connected.
  6.  
  7. Carefully pry out the grease cap, then remove the cotter pin, spindle nut, and washer. Remove the hub, being careful not to drop the outer wheel bearings. As the hub is pulled forward, the outer wheel bearings will often fall forward and they may easily be removed at this time.
  8.  
  9. If not done already, remove the outer roller bearing assembly from the hub. The inner bearing assembly will remain in the hub and may be removed from the rear of the hub after prying out the inner seal with a small prybar. Discard the seal after removal.
  10.  

To install:
  1. Clean all parts in solvent and allow to air dry, then check for excessive wear or damage. Inspect all of the parts for scoring, pitting or cracking and replace if necessary.
  2.  

DO NOT remove the bearing races from the hub, unless they show signs of damage.

  1. If it is necessary to remove the wheel bearing races, use the GM front bearing race removal tool No. J-29117 or equivalent, to drive the races from the hub/disc assembly. A hammer and drift may be used to drive the races from the hub, but the race removal tool is quicker.
  2.  
  3. If the bearing races were removed, place the replacement races in the freezer for a few minutes and then install them to the hub:
    1. Lightly lubricate the inside of the hub/disc assembly using wheel bearing grease.
    2.  
    3. Using the GM seal installation tools No. J-8092 and J-8850 or equivalent, drive the inner bearing race into the hub/disc assembly until it seats. Make sure the race is properly seated against the hub shoulder and is not cocked.
    4.  

  4.  

When installing the bearing races, be sure to support the hub/disc assembly with GM tool No. J-9746-02 or equivalent.

  1. Using a suitable high melting point wheel bearing grease, lubricate the bearings, the races and the spindle; be sure to place a gob of grease (inside the hub/disc assembly) between the races to provide an ample supply of lubricant. Lubricate the wheel bearings by applying a sizable dab of lubricant to the palm of one hand. Using your other hand, work the bearing into the lubricant so that the grease is pushed through the rollers and out the other side. Keep rotating the bearing while continuing to push the lubricant through it.
  2.  
  3. Place the inner bearing in the hub, then apply a thin coating of grease to the sealing lip and install a new inner seal, making sure the seal flange faces the bearing cup.
  4.  

Although a seal installation tool is preferable, a section of pipe with a smooth edge or a suitably sized socket may be used to drive the seal into position. Make sure the seal is flush with the outer surface of the hub assembly.

  1. Carefully install the wheel hub over the spindle.
  2.  
  3. Using your hands, firmly press the outer bearing into the hub.
  4.  
  5. Loosely install the spindle washer and nut, but do not install the cotter pin or dust cap at this time.
  6.  
  7. Install the brake caliper.
  8.  
  9. Install the tire and wheel assembly.
  10.  
  11. Properly adjust the wheel bearings, then install a new cotter pin and the dust cap.
  12.  
  13. Install the wheel/hub cover, then remove the supports and carefully lower the vehicle.
  14.  

ADJUSTMENT



Pick-up

See Figure 5

  1. Raise and safely support the vehicle. Remove the wheel assembly.
  2.  
  3. Remove the dust cap from the rotor/hub assembly by prying a little at a time, moving around the cap.
  4.  

When prying the dust cap off of the hub, be careful not to distort the cap sealing face.

  1. Remove the cotter pin, nut retainer (if equipped) and loosen the hub nut.
  2.  
  3. Adjust the bearing preload as follows:
    1. Tighten the hub nut to 22 ft. lbs. (30 Nm).
    2.  
    3. Turn the hub 2 or 3 times, then loosen the hub nut just enough so that it can be turned with your fingers.
    4.  
    5. Tighten the nut as much as possible using only your fingers.
    6.  
    7. Grasp the rotor and wiggle to ensure that there is no bearing free-play. If free-play is evident, tighten it more with your fingers.
    8.  
    9. Measure the bearing preload by pulling on one of the wheel hub studs with a spring scale. Measure the amount force necessary to rotate the hub. The force required should be 1.8-2.2 lbs. (0.8-1.0 kg).
    10.  
    11. Tighten the hub nut until the specified bearing preload is obtained.
    12.  

  4.  
  5. Install a new cotter pin and the dust cap on the hub.
  6.  
  7. Install the brake caliper and support assembly.
  8.  
  9. Install the wheel assembly.
  10.  

Amigo and Rodeo

See Figure 5

  1. Raise and support the front of the vehicle safely on jackstands.
  2.  
  3. Remove the front wheels.
  4.  
  5. Remove the 6 hub end cover retaining bolts, then remove the hub end cover.
  6.  
  7. Remove the lockwasher, then loosen the hub nut using the front hub nut wrench J-36827, or equivalent.
  8.  
  9. Carefully move the hub and rotor back and forth to gain clearance from the brake calipers. Make sure that the hub can spin freely.
  10.  
  11. Adjust the front wheel bearing preload as follows:
    1. Tighten the hub nut to 22 ft. lbs. (30 Nm).
    2.  
    3. Turn the hub 2 or 3 times, then loosen the hub nut just enough so that it can be turned with your fingers.
    4.  
    5. Tighten the nut as much as possible using only your fingers.
    6.  
    7. Grasp the rotor and wiggle to ensure that there is no bearing free-play. If free-play is evident, tighten it more with your fingers.
    8.  
    9. Measure the bearing preload by pulling on one of the wheel hub studs with a spring scale. Measure the amount force necessary to rotate the hub. The force required should be 4.4-5.5 lbs. (2.0-2.5 kg) for new bearings, or 2.6-4.0 lbs. (1.2-1.8 kg) for used bearings.
    10.  
    11. If the measured bearing preload is outside of the specifications, adjust it by loosening or tightening the bearing nut.
    12.  

  12.  
  13. Install the lockwasher by turning the side with the larger diameter of the tapered bore to the vehicle outer side, and attach the washer. If the bolt holes in the lockplate are not aligned with the corresponding holes in the nut, reverse the lockplate. If the bolt holes are still out of alignment, turn in the hub nut just enough to obtain alignment. The bolt is to be fastened tightly so that its head will be lower than the surface of the washer.
  14.  
  15. Install the hub end cover and the 6 retaining bolts.
  16.  
  17. Install the brake caliper and support assembly.
  18.  
  19. Install the wheel assembly.
  20.  

Hombre
  1. Raise and support the vehicle safely using a jackstand under the lower control arm.
  2.  
  3. If equipped, remove the wheel/hub cover for access, then remove the dust cap from the hub.
  4.  
  5. Remove the cotter pin and loosen the spindle nut.
  6.  
  7. Spin the wheel forward by hand and tighten the nut to 12 ft. lbs. (16 Nm) in order to fully seat the bearings and remove any burrs from the threads.
  8.  
  9. Back off the nut until it is just loose, then finger-tighten the nut.
  10.  
  11. Loosen the nut 1 / 4 - 1 / 2 turn until either hole in the spindle lines up with a slot in the nut, then install a new cotter pin. This may appear to be too loose, but it is the correct adjustment.
  12.  
  13. Proper adjustment creates 0.001-0.005 in. (0.025-0.127mm) end-play.
  14.  

 
label.common.footer.alt.autozoneLogo