DISASSEMBLY & ASSEMBLY
See Figures 1, 2, 3, 4, 5, 6, 7, 8, 9, 10, 11, 12, 13, 14, 15, 16 and 17
- Shift the transfer case lever into 2H and the manual hub into the FREE position.
- Apply the parking brake and block the rear wheels.
- Raise and safely support the front of the vehicle on jackstands.
- Remove the wheel and tire assembly.
- Remove the brake caliper assembly and disc brake pads. Do not disconnect the brake line. Also, support the caliper with a wire, do not allow the caliper to hang from the brake hose.
Loosen the 6 bolts and remove the housing assembly. Dismantle the housing assembly as follows:
- While pushing the follower toward the knob, turn the clutch assembly clockwise, then remove the clutch assembly from the knob.
- Remove the snapring and the knob from the cover. Do not loose the detent ball and spring.
- Remove the ball and spring from the knob.
- Remove the X-ring from the knob by pressing it off.
Do not use a sharp instrument to remove this ring, because it may become scratched.
- Use snapring pliers and remove the snapring and shims from the end of the axle shaft in the body assembly.
Remove the 6 bolts and remove the body assembly from the hub. Disassemble the body assembly as follows:
- Remove the snapring and the inner assembly from the body assembly.
- Separate the ring, inner assembly and spacer by removing the snapring.
- Remove the lockwasher and using a hub nut wrench, J-36827 or equivalent, remove the hub nut.
- Remove the brake rotor and hub assembly.
- Remove the outer bearing, inner grease seal, and inner bearing assembly. Discard the inner grease seal after removal.
- Matchmark the hub and rotor. Place the rotor in a soft jaw vise and remove the bolts attaching the rotor to the hub.
- Using a prytool, pry the inner bearing lip seal out of the inboard side of the hub, then remove the inner bearing assembly with your fingers.
- Wash all parts in a cleaning solvent and dry with compressed air. Do NOT allow the bearings to spin while drying them with the compressed air.
Check the bearings for pitting or scoring. Also check for smooth rotation and lack of noise as follows:
- Once the bearings and bearing races, located in the hub assembly, have been cleaned of all old grease and build up, oil the bearings with regular, clean engine oil.
- Position each bearing, 1 at a time, in its respective bearing race. Provide slight inward pressure and turn the bearings.
- While pressing in and rotating the bearings, note how they turn in the bearing races. The bearings should turn smoothly and evenly.
- If the bearings turn irregularly or make noises while rotating, they must be replaced with new ones. Any time the bearings are replaced, the bearing races should also be replaced.
Special installation tools are necessary to assemble new bearing races into the hub assembly.
If necessary, remove the bearing races as follows:
- Place the hub assembly on a piece of clean cardboard with the outboard side facing down.
- Using a long, brass drift pin or punch, tap the outer bearing race out of the hub assembly. It will be necessary to work the punch around the bearing in a circular motion, otherwise the bearing race can become excessive cocked in the hub bore; this makes removal almost impossible. If this happens, simply tap on the opposite side of the bearing race until it has leveled out in the bore.
- After the outer bearing race is removed, flip the hub over and perform the same with the inner bearing race.
If necessary, install the new inner and outer bearing races as follows:
- Position the hub assembly with the outboard face down.
- Insert the bearing race into the hub bore as level as possible.
- Drive the new inner bearing race into the bore with special tool J-36829 and J-8092, or their equivalents, until completely seated.
- Flip the hub assembly over and drive the outer bearing race into the hub using special tool J-29015 and J-8092, or equivalents.
- Pressure pack the bearings with high temperature wheel bearing grease. If a bearing packer is not available, pack the bearings with your hands. Make sure the bearings are completely packed with as much grease as possible; work the grease into the bearings and cage until full.
- Position the inner bearing in the bearing race.
- Using special tools J-36830 and J-8092, or equivalents, install the inner oil seal into the hub assembly.
- Apply grease to the spindle and 1.23 oz. (35 g) of grease to the inside surface of the hub.
Assemble the body unit as follows:
- Apply grease to both faces of the spacer and apply grease to the inside face of the ring. Install the spacer, ring, and snapring in the body assembly.
- Apply grease to the splined portion of the inner assembly. Install the inner assembly and snapring in the body assembly.
Assemble the knob and clutch unit as follows:
- Apply grease to the X-ring, the inner cover and the outside circumference of the knob.
- Install the detent ball and spring. Align the detent ball with either groove in the cover.
- Install the snapring to the clutch assembly. Make sure the smooth side is facing the knob.
- Align the retaining spring in the cut spring groove of the clutch assembly.
- Install the follower to the clutch assembly so the follower nail comes closer to the bent portion of the retaining spring by aligning the follower nail to the outer teeth of the clutch. Then, hook the retaining spring onto the upper portion of the hanger nails of the follower.
- Install the compression spring to the clutch assembly. The smaller diameter of the compression spring should face the follower.
- Align the follower nail to the handle groove, and then assemble the clutch with the knob by pushing and turning the clutch counterclockwise to the knob.
- Install the hub to the rotor assembly. Tighten the mounting bolts to 76 ft. lbs. (103 Nm).
- Install the hub and rotor assembly onto the vehicle.
- Install the hub nut and tighten it to 22 ft. lbs. (29 Nm). Fully loosen the nut and attach a spring scale to the wheel. If the old bearings are being reused and a new grease seal was installed, tighten the hub nut until 2.6-4.0 lbs. (1.2-1.8 kg) of force are needed to spin the wheel. If new bearings and a new grease seal are being used, tighten the hub nut until 4.4-5.5 lbs. (2.0-2.5 kg) of force are needed to spin the wheel. If the measured wheel bearing preload is not within these specifications, loosen or tighten the hub nut until the specifications are achieved.
- Install the lockwasher. The side with the larger diameter should be facing away from the hub. The holes in the lockwasher should align with the holes in the hub nut. If the holes do not align, reverse the lockwasher. If the holes still do not align, turn the hub nut slightly until the holes align. The lockwasher screws should be fastened tightly, the screw heads may be lower than the lockwasher's surface.
- Install the body assembly to the hub assembly. Apply Loctite® 515 or equivalent to both joining faces. Tighten the body-to-hub bolts to 8-11 ft. lbs. (10-14 Nm).
- Install the snapring and shims. The clearance between the free wheeling hub and the snapring should be 0.00-0.01 in. (0.0-0.3mm). If the clearance is not within specifications, install adjusting shims until the clearance is brought within specifications. Adjusting shims come is the following sizes: 0.008 in. (0.2mm), 0.011 in. (0.3mm), 0.020 in. (0.5mm), 0.039 in. (1.0mm).
- Install the cover, knob, and clutch assembly to the body. Align the stopper nails with the grooves in the body.
- Tighten the housing assembly cover-to-body bolts to 39-47 ft. lbs. (54-64 Nm).
- Set the hubs in the FREE position.
- Install the caliper assembly and disc brake pads. If the brake lines were disconnected, bleed the brake system.
- Install the front wheels and lower the vehicle.
- Road test the vehicle and verify proper operation of the 4WD system and hub assemblies.
Verify that the vehicle has a firm brake pedal before performing the road test.