Brake pads should be inspected once a year or at 6,000 miles (9,600 km) intervals, whichever occurs first. Check both ends of the outboard pad, looking in at each end of the caliper; then check the lining thickness of the inboard pad, looking down through the inspection hole. On riveted pads, the lining should be more than 1 / 32 in. (0.8mm) thick above the rivet (so that the lining is thicker than the metal backing in most cases) in order to prevent the rivet from scoring the rotor. On bonded brake pads, a minimum lining thickness of 1 / 32 in. (0.8mm) above the backing plate should be used to determine necessary replacement intervals. Keep in mind that any applicable state inspection standards that are more stringent take precedence. All four front pads MUST be replaced as a set if one shows excessive wear.
REMOVAL & INSTALLATION
See Figures 1, 2, 3, 4, 5 and 6
- Use a turkey baster or other suitable device to remove half of the volume of brake fluid from the master cylinder. Discard the brake fluid properly. Do not reuse old brake fluid.
- Raise and safely support the vehicle on jackstands.
- Remove the wheel and tire assemblies.
- Install a C-clamp on the caliper with the solid frame side of the clamp against the back of the caliper and the driving screw end against the metal part (center backing plate) of the outboard pad.
- Tighten the clamp until the piston moves inward slightly. Unlike front calipers where the piston can be compressed in until it bottoms out in the piston bore, the rear caliper piston is attached to a screw that most be rotated inward.
- Remove the caliper mounting bolts from the back of the caliper.
- Remove the caliper from the mounting bracket and support from the suspension using a coat hanger or length of wire. DO NOT allow the brake line to support the caliper's weight.
- Remove the inboard and outboard pads from the caliper or bracket.
- Remove any brake pads retainer clips and shims from the brake pad or caliper bracket.
- Remove the bolt ear sleeves and rubber bushings for cleaning, inspection and lubrication.
- Using a pair of needlenose pliers, rotate the piston clockwise until the piston bottoms out in the caliper bore.
- Check the inside of the caliper for leakage and the condition of the piston dust boot. If necessary, remove the caliper and overhaul or replace it.
- Lubricate the sleeves and bushings using a suitable silicone lubricant, then attach them to the caliper.
- Attach the retainer clips and shims to the brake pads. Install the inboard and outboard pads on the caliper bracket.
- Place the caliper over the rotor, lining up the hole in the caliper ears with the holes in the mounting bracket. Make sure that the brake hose is not twisted or kinked.
- Carefully insert the mounting bolts through the bracket and caliper (bushing and sleeves), then tighten to 32 ft. lbs. (44 Nm).
- Pump the brake pedal a several times to seat the linings against the rotors.
- Install the wheels, then remove the jackstands and carefully lower the vehicle.
- Check and refill the master cylinder reservoirs with clean brake fluid.
- Pump the brake pedal to make sure that it is firm. If necessary, bleed the brakes.