REMOVAL & INSTALLATION
- Apply the parking brake and block the opposite wheel.
- Place the transmission shifter in Reverse.
- If equipped, remove the wheel cover or hub cap.
- Break loose the lug nuts. If a nut is stuck, never use heat to loosen it or damage to the wheel and bearings may occur. If the nuts are seized, one or two heavy hammer blows directly on the end of the bolt head usually loosens the rust. Be careful as continued pounding will likely damage the brake drum or rotor.
- Raise the vehicle until the tire is clear of the ground. Support the vehicle safely using jackstands.
- Remove the lug nuts, then remove the tire and wheel assembly.
- Make sure the wheel and hub mating surfaces, as well as the wheel lug studs, are clean and free of all foreign material. Always remove rust from the wheel mounting surfaces and the brake rotors/drums. Failure to do so may cause the lug nuts to loosen in service.
- Position the wheel on the hub or drum and hand-tighten the lug nuts. Make sure that the coned ends face inward.
- Tighten all the lug nuts, in a crisscross pattern, until they are snug.
- Remove the supports, if any, and lower the vehicle. Tighten the lug nuts, in a crisscross pattern. Always use a torque wrench to achieve the proper lug nut torque and to prevent stretching the wheel studs.
- Repeat the torque pattern to assure proper wheel tightening.
- If equipped, install the hub cab or wheel cover.
Check the wheels for any damage. They must be replaced if they are bent, dented, heavily rusted, have elongated bolt holes, or have excessive lateral or radial run-out. Wheels with excessive run-out may cause a high-speed vehicle vibration.
Replacement wheels must be of the same load capacity, diameter, width, offset and mounting configuration as the original wheels. Using the wrong wheels may affect wheel bearing life, ground and tire clearance, or speedometer and odometer calibrations.