REMOVAL & INSTALLATION
See Figures 1, 2 and 3
- Drain 2 / 3 of the brake fluid from the front reservoir. Use the bleeder screw at the front outlet port to drain the fluid.
- Raise the vehicle so that the wheel to be worked on is off the ground. Support the vehicle with jackstands.
- Remove the front wheels.
- Place a C-clamp on the caliper so that the solid end contacts the back of the caliper and the screw end contacts the metal part of the outboard brake pad.
- Tighten the clamp until the caliper moves far enough to force the piston to the bottom of the piston bore. This will back the brake pads off of the rotor surface to facilitate the removal and installation of the caliper assembly.
- Remove the C-clamp.
Do not push down on the brake pedal or the piston and brake pads will return to their original positions up against the rotor.
- Remove both of the allen head mounting bolts and lift the caliper off the rotor.
If just the brake pads are being replaced, it is not necessary to remove the caliper assembly entirely from the vehicle. Do not remove the brake line. Rest the caliper on the front spring or other suitable support. Do not allow the brake hose to support the weight of the caliper.
- If the caliper is being removed in order to be rebuilt, then it is necessary to disconnect the brake fluid hose. Clean the brake fluid hose-to-caliper connection thoroughly. Remove the hose-to-caliper bolt. Cap or tape the open ends to keep dirt out. Discard the copper gaskets; get new ones!
- Install the caliper in the reverse order of removal. Torque the mounting bolts to 35 ft. lb.
If the brake fluid hose was disconnected, it will be necessary to bleed the hydraulic system.
See Figures 4 through 9
- Remove the caliper assembly and remove the brake pads. If the pads are to be reused, mark their location in the caliper.
- Clean the caliper exterior with clean brake fluid. Drain any residual fluid from the caliper and place it on a clean work surface.
Removal of the caliper piston requires the use of compressed air. Do not, under any circumstances, place your fingers in front of the piston in any attempt to catch or protect it when applying compressed air to remove the piston.
- Pad the interior of the caliper with clean cloths. Use several cloths and pad the interior well to avoid damaging the piston when it comes out of the bore.
- Insert an air nozzle into the inlet hole in the caliper and gently apply air pressure on the piston to push it out of the bore. Use only enough air pressure to ease the piston out of the bore.
- Pry the dust boot out of the bore with a screwdriver. Use caution during this operation to prevent scratching the bore. Discard the dust boot.
- Remove the piston seal from the piston bore and discard the seal. Use only nonscratching implements such as a pencil, wooden stick or a piece of plastic to remove the seal. Do not use a metal tool, as it could very easily scratch the bore.
- Remove the bleeder screw. Remove and discard the sleeves and rubber bushings from the mounting ears.
- Clean all the parts with clean brake fluid. Blow out all the passages in the caliper and bleeder valve. Use only dry and filtered compressed air. Replace the mounting bolts if they are corroded or if the threads are damaged.
Do not attempt to clean the attaching bolts with abrasives, as their protective plating may be removed.
- Examine the piston for defects. Replace the piston if it is nicked, scratched, corroded or the protective plating is worn off. Examine the caliper piston bore for the same defects as the piston. The bore is not plated and minor stains or corrosion can be polished with crocus cloth.
Do not attempt to refinish the piston in any way. The outside diameter is the sealing surface and is made to very close tolerances. Removal of the nickle-chrome plating will lead to pitting, rusting and eventual cocking of the piston in the piston bore. Do not use emery cloth or similar abrasives on the piston bore. If the bore does not clean up with crocus cloth, replace the caliper. Clean the caliper thoroughly with brake fluid if the bore was polished with crocus cloth.
- Lubricate the bore and new seal with brake fluid and install the seal in the groove in the bore.
- Lubricate the piston with brake fluid and install the new dust boot on the piston. Assemble the dust boot into the piston groove so that the fold in the boot faces the open end of the piston. Slide the metal portion of the dust boot over the open end of the piston and push the retainer toward the back of the piston until the lip on the fold seats in the piston groove. Then push the retainer portion of the boot forward until the boot is flush with the rim at the open end of the piston and snaps into place.
- Insert the piston in the bore, being careful not to unseat the piston seal. Push the piston to the bottom of the bore. It requires 50-100 lb. of force to bottom the piston.
- Position the dust boot retainer in the counter bore at the top of the piston bore. Seat the dust boot retainer with a flat-ended punch by tapping the metal ring of the dust boot into place. Be careful not do damage the rubber portion of the dust boot. The metal retainer portion of the boot must be evenly seated in the counterbore, using tool J-33028 or J-22904, and fit below the face of the caliper.
- Install the bleeder screw. Tighten it to 50-140 in. lb.
- Connect the brake line to the caliper using new copper gaskets.
- Install the brake pads, sleeves and rubber bushings.
- Install the caliper and tighten the mounting bolts to 35 ft. lb. Bleed the hydraulic system.