See Figures 1 through 17
Wagoneers with closed, spherical steering knuckles, and an independent front driving axle, some FC Series trucks, and 1984-86 Wagoneer, Cherokee and Comanche models with Selec-Trac®, have constant velocity joints at the outer end of the axle shaft. The Wagoneers have Rzeppa type CV joints, while the FC Series trucks have either Rzeppa or Bendix type joints. The 1984-86 Wagoneers, Cherokees and Comanches have a modified Rzeppa joint. All other front driving axles us conventional Cardan type U-joints. CV joint service is given below. For the conventional Cardan type U-joints, see U-joint Overhaul, above. After the axle and U-joint have been removed, the constant velocity joint may be disassembled as follows:
- Use a wooden prybar and exert force in the direction of the axis of the axle shaft.
- Use a mallet to exert enough force to drive the axle shaft retainer ring, installed on the end of the shaft, into its groove in the spline of the inner shaft, permitting the joint to be slipped off of the axle.
- Push down on various points around the inner race and cage until the balls can be removed with the help of a small screwdriver.
- Turn the cage so that the two bosses in the spindle shaft will drop into the two elongated holes in the cage, and lift out the cage.
- To remove the inner race, turn it so that one of the bosses will drop into an elongated hole. Then, shift the race to one side and lift it out.
- Clean all parts in a safe solvent and check for wear or damage.
- Assembly is the reverse of disassembly.
It is nearly impossible to rebuild the Bendix joint. A number of hard-to-get special tools are required and there are no factory-made service parts. Therefore, if the Bendix joint becomes worn or damaged, the shaft should be replaced.
- Secure the shaft in a soft-jawed vise.
- Cut and remove both outer boot clamps.
- Slide the boot off the CV joint.
- Using a hardened wood drift, seated on the inner race, tap the joint off the shaft.
- Using a brass drift, tap the outer CV joint cage until it is tilted out far enough to remove the first ball. Remove the remaining balls in this manner.
- Rotate the cage outward until it is at a 90º angle to the installed position.
- Align the two oblong holes in the cage with the slots in the interior wall of the spindle housing and remove the cage and inner race.
- Align the shoulder, between the race groove, with the inside of the oblong holes in the cage. Rotate the inner race out of the cage, using the two larger openings.
- Clean all parts in a safe solvent and dry them with a lint-free cloth. Inspect all parts for signs of wear, damage, flat spots, cracks, heat checking or any abnormal condition. If any part is defective, all of the parts should be replaced. These joints should be serviced as assemblies, only. Kits containing all of the parts, as well as the necessary lubricant, are available. Use only the lubricant supplied with the kit. Use half the lubricant on the joint and pack the other half in the boot.
- Coat the spindle hub with lubricant.
- Install the cage.
- Install the cage and race assembly in the spindle hub. The smaller diameter of the cage must face outward, and the groove in the race must face inward.
- Tilt the cage outward, using a brass drift, until the first ball can be installed, then install the remaining balls in the same manner.
- Pack the joint with half the supplied lubricant.
- Install the new clamps on the boot. Install the boot on the shaft.
- Install the new retaining ring and spacer ring on the shaft.
- Install the CV joint on the shaft until the inner race contacts the inner snapring.
- Pack the boot with the remaining lubricant, and slide the boot over the joint. Tighten the clamps.