Lexus Car ES, IS, LS 1998-06

Accessory Drive Belts 2

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Drive Belt Routings





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Fig. Serpentine drive belt routing-4.0L (1UZ-FE) and 4.3L (3UZ-FE) Engines



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Fig.



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Fig. Serpentine drive belt routing-2.5L (4GR-FSE), 3.0L (3GR-FSE) and 3.5L (2GR-FSE) engines



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Fig. Serpentine drive belt routing-3.0L (2JZ-GE) engine



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Fig. Accessory drive belt routing-3.0L (1MZ-FE) and 3.3L (3MZ-FE) engines



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Fig. Serpentine drive belt routing-4.0L (1UZ-FE) and 4.3L (3UZ-FE) engines

Inspection



Inspect the drive belt for signs of glazing or cracking. A glazed belt will be perfectly smooth from slippage, while a good belt will have a slight texture of fabric visible. Cracks will usually start at the inner edge of the belt and run outward. All worn or damaged drive belts should be replaced immediately.

Serpentine Belts

Although many manufacturers recommend that the drive belt(s) be inspected every 30,000 miles (48,000 km) or more, it is really a good idea to check them at least once a year, or at every major fluid change. Whichever interval you choose, the belts should be checked for wear or damage. Obviously, a damaged drive belt can cause problems should it give way while the vehicle is in operation. But, improper length belts (too short or long), as well as excessively worn belts, can also cause problems. Loose accessory drive belts can lead to poor engine cooling and diminished output from the alternator, air conditioning compressor or power steering pump. A belt that is too tight places a severe strain on the driven unit and can wear out bearings quickly.

Serpentine drive belts should be inspected for rib chunking (pieces of the ribs breaking off), severe glazing, frayed cords or other visible damage. Any belt which is missing sections of 2 or more adjacent ribs which are 1 / 2 in. (13mm) or longer must be replaced. You might want to note that serpentine belts do tend to form small cracks across the backing. If the only wear you find is in the form of one or more cracks are across the backing and NOT parallel to the ribs, the belt is still good and does not need to be replaced.

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Fig. Typical wear patterns for a serpentine drive belt



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Fig.



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Fig.

V-Belts

Although different maintenance intervals are given by each manufacturer, it is a good rule of thumb to inspect the drive belts every 15,000 miles (24,000 km) or 12 months (whichever occurs first). Determine the belt tension at a point half-way between the pulleys by pressing on the belt with moderate thumb pressure. The belt should deflect about 1 / 4 - 1 / 2 in. (6-13mm) at this point. Note that -deflection- is not play, but the ability of the belt, under actual tension, to stretch slightly and give.

Inspect the belts for the following signs of damage or wear: glazing, cracking, fraying, crumbling or missing chunks. A glazed belt will be perfectly smooth from slippage, while a good belt will have a slight texture of fabric visible. Cracks will usually start at the inner edge of the belt and run outward. A belt that is fraying will have the fabric backing de-laminating its self from the belt. A belt that is crumbling or missing chunks will have voids in the cross-section of the belt, some times the section missing chunks will be in the pulley groove and not easily seen. All worn or damaged drive belts should be replaced immediately. It is best to replace all drive belts at one time, as a preventive maintenance measure.

Although it is generally easier on the component to have the belt too loose than too tight, a very loose belt may place a high impact load on a bearing due to the whipping or snapping action of the belt. A belt that is slightly loose may slip, especially when component loads are high. This slippage may be hard to identify. For example, the generator belt may run okay during the day, and then slip at night when headlights are turned on. Slipping belts wear quickly not only due to the direct effect of slippage but also because of the heat the slippage generates. Extreme slippage may even cause a belt to burn. A very smooth, glazed appearance on the belt's sides, as opposed to the obvious pattern of a fabric cover, indicates that the belt has been slipping.

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Fig. An example of a healthy drive belt



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Fig. Deep cracks in this belt will cause flex, building up heat that will eventually lead to belt failure



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Fig. The cover of this belt is worn, exposing the critical reinforcing cords to excessive wear



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Fig. Installing too wide a belt can result in serious belt wear and/or breakage

Removal & Installation



2.5L (4gr-Fse) And 3.5L (2gr-Fse) Engines
  1. Before servicing the vehicle, refer to the Precautions section.
  2.  
  3. Disconnect the negative battery cable. Wait at least 90 seconds before performing any other work.
  4.  
  5. Remove the cool air intake duct seal.
  6.  
  7. Remove the inlet air cleaner.
  8.  
  9. Remove the V-bank cover.

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    Fig. Loosening the drive belt tension-4GR-FSE and 2GR-FSE engines

  10.  
  11. While releasing the belt tension by turning the belt tensioner counterclockwise, and remove the drive belt from the belt tensioner.

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    Fig. Fix the belt tensioner in place by inserting a 5mm bihexagon wrench into the holes.-4GR-FSE and 2GR-FSE engines

  12.  
  13. While turning the belt tensioner counterclockwise, align with its holes, and then insert the 5mm bihexagon wrench into the holes to fix the belt tensioner.
  14.  
  15. Visually check the drive belt for excessive wear, frayed cords, chunks missing from its ribs, etc. If any defect has been found, replace the belt.
  16.  
  17. Check that nothing gets caught in the tensioner by turning it clockwise and counterclockwise. If a malfunction exists, replace the tensioner.
  18.  

To install:

  1. Install the drive belt.
  2.  
  3. While turning the belt tensioner counterclockwise, remove the bar.
  4.  
  5. Put the backside of the drive belt on the tensioner pulley and idler pulley. Check that the belt is properly set to each pulley.
  6.  
  7. If it is difficult to install the drive belt, perform the following procedure:


    1. Put the belt on every part except the tensioner pulley as shown in the routing illustration.
    2.  
    3. While releasing the belt tension by turning the belt tensioner counterclockwise, put the belt on the tensioner pulley.
    4.  

  8.  
  9. Install the V-bank cover.
  10.  
  11. Install the inlet air cleaner.
  12.  
  13. Install the cool air intake duct seal.
  14.  
  15. Connect the negative battery cable.
  16.  

3.0L (1mz-FE) And 3.3L (3mz-FE) Engines
  1. Before servicing the vehicle, refer to the Precautions section.
  2.  
  3. Disconnect the negative battery cable. Wait at least 90 seconds before performing any other work.
  4.  
  5. Remove the right front wheel.
  6.  
  7. Remove the right front fender apron seal.

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    Fig. Bolt locations for removing or adjusting alternator belt-1MZ-FE and 3MZ-FE engines

  8.  
  9. Remove the alternator belt as follows:


    1. Loosen bolts A and B.
    2.  
    3. Loosen the adjusting bolt C, and remove the alternator belt.

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      Fig. Bolt locations for removing or adjusting vane pump belt-1MZ-FE and 3MZ-FE engines

    4.  

  10.  
  11. Remove the vane pump belt as follows:


    1. Loosen bolts A and B
    2.  
    3. Remove the vane pump belt.
    4.  

  12.  

To install:

  1. Install the vane pump belt as follows:


    1. Install the belt on each pulley.
    2.  
    3. Using a bar, adjust the belt tension and tighten the bolt B to 32 ft. lbs. (43 Nm).
    4.  
    5. Tighten the bolt A to 32 ft. lbs. (43 Nm).
    6.  

  2.  
  3. Install the alternator belt as follows:


    1. Install the belt on each pulley.
    2.  
    3. Tighten the adjusting bolt C, and adjust the belt tension.
    4.  
    5. First tighten bolt A to 43 ft. lbs. (58 Nm), then tighten bolt B to 13 ft. lbs. (18 Nm).
    6.  

  4.  
  5. Inspect and adjust, if necessary, the drive belt deflection and tension.
  6.  
  7. Install the right front fender apron seal.
  8.  
  9. Install the right front wheel.
  10.  
  11. Connect the negative battery cable.
  12.  

3.0L (2jz-Ge) Engine
  1. Before servicing the vehicle, refer to the Precautions section.
  2.  
  3. Disconnect the negative battery cable. Wait at least 90 seconds before performing any other work.

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    Fig. Loosening the drive belt tension when equipped with an automatic drive belt tensioner.-2JZ-GE engine

  4.  
  5. Using SST 09216-00041, loosen the drive belt tension by turning the drive belt tensioner clockwise.
  6.  
  7. Remove the drive belt.
  8.  
  9. Visually check the drive belt for excessive wear, frayed cords, chunks missing from its ribs, etc. If any defect has been found, it should be replaced.
  10.  
  11. Installation is the reverse of the removal procedure.
  12.  

4.0L (1uz-FE) And 4.3L (3uz-FE) Engines
  1. Before servicing the vehicle, refer to the Precautions section.
  2.  
  3. Disconnect the negative battery cable. Wait at least 90 seconds before performing any other work.
  4.  
  5. Remove the air cleaner inlet.

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    Fig. Loosening the drive belt tension-1UZ-FE and 3UZ-FE engines

  6.  
  7. Loosen the belt tension by turning the belt tensioner counterclockwise.
    NOTE
    The pulley bolt for the belt tensioner has a left - hand thread.

  8.  
  9. Remove the drive belt.
  10.  
  11. Visually check the drive belt for excessive wear, frayed cords, chunks missing from its ribs, etc. If any defect has been found, replace the belt.
  12.  

To install:

  1. Set the drive belt to everything except the idler pulley No. 2, as shown in the routing illustration.
  2.  
  3. Loosen the belt by turning the belt tensioner counterclockwise.
  4.  
  5. Then set the belt to the idler pulley.

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    Fig. Check that the mark is within range B as shown on the tensioner pulley-1UZ-FE and 3UZ-FE engines

  6.  
  7. After a new belt has been installed, check that the mark is within range B as shown in the illustration.
  8.  
  9. Install the air cleaner inlet.
  10.  
  11. Connect the negative battery cable.
  12.  

Pivoting Type

CAUTION
On vehicles with an electric cooling fan, disable the power to the fan by disengaging the fan motor wiring connector or removing the negative battery cable before replacing or adjusting the drive belts. Otherwise, the fan may engage even though the ignition is OFF .

With Adjuster
  1. Disconnect the negative battery cable.
  2.  
  3. Loosen the component-s pivot and lockbolts.
  4.  
  5. Inspect the tensioner assembly on the component; the tensioner adjusting bolt may use a locknut or screw to prevent it from loosening over time. On the type of adjuster with a threaded mounting brace, there may be two jam nuts used on either side of the threaded coupling. If such locking fasteners are found, loosen them.
  6.  
  7. Turn the tensioner adjusting bolt or threaded coupling to relieve all tension from the drive belt until the most possible slack is gained from the component.
  8.  
  9. Slip the belt off of the accessory pulley, then remove it from the other pulleys. Remove the belt from the vehicle.
  10.  

To install:

  1. Route the new belt on the component pulleys. Make certain that it is routed correctly; incorrect routing could cause a component to spin backward, possibly damaging it.
  2.  
  3. Once the belt is correctly positioned on all of the pulleys, adjust the tension as described earlier in this section.
  4.  
  5. Connect the negative battery cable.
  6.  

Without Adjuster
  1. Disconnect the negative battery cable.
  2.  
  3. Loosen the accessory's slotted adjusting bracket bolt. If the hinge bolt is excessively tight, it too will have to be loosened.
  4.  
  5. Push the component toward the engine to provide enough slack in the belt so that it will slide over one of the accessory drive pulleys. Remove the drive belt from the accessory drive pulleys and from the vehicle.
  6.  

To install:

  1. Position the new drive belt over the component pulleys. Make sure that it is routed correctly.
  2.  
  3. Adjust the tension of the belt, as described earlier in this section.
  4.  
  5. Connect the negative battery cable.
  6.  

Serpentine Belt

Because serpentine belts use a spring loaded tensioner for adjustment, belt replacement tends to be somewhat easier than it used to be on engines where accessories were pivoted and bolted in place for tension adjustment. Basically, all belt replacement involves is to pivot the tensioner to loosen the belt, then slide the belt off of the pulleys. The two most important points are to pay CLOSE attention to the proper belt routing (since serpentine belts tend to be -snaked'' all different ways through the pulleys) and to make sure the V-ribs are properly seated in all the pulleys.

Although belt routing diagrams have been included in this section, the first places you should check for proper belt routing are the labels in your engine compartment. These should include a belt routing diagram which may reflect changes made during a production run.

  1. Disconnect the negative battery cable for safety. This will help assure that no one mistakenly cranks the engine over with your hands between the pulleys, and that the cooling fan cannot activate while servicing the belt(s).
    NOTE
    Take a good look at the installed belt and make a note of the routing. Before removing the belt, make sure the routing matches that of the belt routing diagram. If for some reason a diagram does not match (you may not have the original engine or it may have been modified), carefully note the changes on a piece of paper.

  2.  
  3. For tensioners equipped with a 1 / 2 in. (13mm) square hole, insert the drive end of a large breaker bar into the hole. Use the breaker bar to pivot the tensioner away from the drive belt. For tensioners not equipped with this hole, use the proper-sized socket and breaker bar (or a large handled wrench) on the tensioner idler pulley center bolt to pivot the tensioner away from the belt. This will loosen the belt sufficiently that it can be pulled off of one or more of the pulleys. It is usually easiest to carefully pull the belt out from underneath the tensioner pulley itself.
  4.  
  5. Once the belt is off one of the pulleys, gently pivot the tensioner back into position. DO NOT allow the tensioner to snap back, as this could damage the tensioner's internal parts.
  6.  
  7. Now finish removing the belt from the other pulleys and remove it from the engine.
  8.  

To install:

  1. While referring to the proper routing diagram (which you identified earlier), begin to route the belt over the pulleys, leaving whichever pulley you first released it from for last.
  2.  
  3. Once the belt is mostly in place, carefully pivot the tensioner and position the belt over the final pulley. As you begin to allow the tensioner back into contact with the belt, run your hand around the pulleys and make sure the belt is properly seated in the ribs. If not, release the tension and seat the belt.
  4.  
  5. Once the belt is installed, take another look at all the pulleys to double check your installation.
  6.  
  7. Connect the negative battery cable, then start and run the engine to check belt operation.
  8.  
  9. Once the engine has reached normal operating temperature, turn the ignition OFF and check that the belt tensioner arrow is within the proper adjustment range.
  10.  

Stationary Type
Idler Pulley With Adjusting Bolt
  1. Disconnect the negative battery cable.
  2.  
  3. Loosen the idler bracket pivot bolt and locking bolts.
  4.  
  5. Move the idler pulley until the most amount of slack is gained.
  6.  
  7. Remove the drive belt from the accessory pulley, then from the other applicable pulleys.
  8.  

To install:

  1. Position the new belt over the crankshaft pulley, the idler pulley and the accessory pulley. Make certain that it is correctly routed, otherwise it could cause the accessory to be rotated backwards. This could cause damage to the accessory.
  2.  
  3. Adjust the belt tension, as described earlier in this section.
  4.  
  5. While holding the tension on the belt with the ratchet, tighten the locking bolts, then the pivot bolt.
  6.  
  7. Connect the negative battery cable.
  8.  

Idler Pulley Without Adjusting Bolt
  1. Disconnect the negative battery cable.
  2.  
  3. Loosen the mounting/pivot bolt behind the idler pulley.
  4.  
  5. Remove the drive belt from the accessory pulley, then from the other applicable pulleys.
  6.  

To install:

  1. Position the new belt over the crankshaft pulley, the idler pulley and the accessory pulley. Make certain that it is correctly routed, otherwise it could cause the accessory to be rotated backwards. This could cause damage to the accessory.
  2.  
  3. Swivel the idler pulley with a pair of pliers or a wrench on the bearing mounting until the proper tension is achieved.
  4.  
  5. While holding the idler pulley, at the proper tension, tighten the mounting/pivot bolt.
  6.  
  7. Connect the negative battery cable.
  8.  

V-Belts

If a belt must be replaced, the driven unit or idler pulley must be loosened and moved to its extreme loosest position, generally by moving it toward the center of the motor. After removing the old belt, check the pulleys for dirt or built-up material which could affect belt contact. Carefully install the new belt, remembering that it is new and unused; it may appear to be just a little too small to fit over the pulley flanges. Fit the belt over the largest pulley (usually the crankshaft pulley at the bottom center of the motor) first, then work on the smaller one(s). Gentle pressure in the direction of rotation is helpful. Some belts run around a third, or idler pulley, which acts as an additional pivot in the belt's path. It may be possible to loosen the idler pulley as well as the main component, making your job much easier. Depending on which belt(s) you are changing, it may be necessary to loosen or remove other interfering belts to get at the one(s) you want.

When buying replacement belts, remember that the fit is critical according to the length of the belt (-diameter-), the width of the belt, the depth of the belt and the angle or profile of the V shape or the ribs. The belt shape should match the shape of the pulley exactly; belts that are not an exact match can cause noise, slippage and premature failure.

After the new belt is installed, draw tension on it by moving the driven unit or idler pulley away from the motor and tighten its mounting bolts. This is sometimes a three or four-handed job; you may find an assistant helpful. Make sure that all the bolts you loosened are tightened and that any other loosened belts also have the correct tension. A new belt can be expected to stretch a bit after installation so, be prepared to readjust your new belt, if needed, within the first two hundred miles of use.