Mazda 323/626/929/GLC/MX-6/RX-7 1978-1989

Transaxle

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REMOVAL & INSTALLATION



GLC

See Figures 1, 2 and 3

  1. Raise the vehicle and support it safely. Disconnect the negative battery cable.
  2.  
  3. Disengage all electrical wiring and connections. Mark these units to aid in reassembling. Drain the transaxle oil.
  4.  
  5. Remove the front wheels. Disconnect the lower ball joints from the steering knuckles. Pull the driveshafts from the differential gears.
  6.  

A circlip is positioned on the driveshaft ends and engages in a groove, machined in the differential side gears. The driveshafts may have to be forced from the differential housing to release the clip from the groove. Do not apply a sharp impact. Do not allow the driveshaft's free end to drop, otherwise may occur to the ball and socket joints as well as to the rubber boots. Wire the shafts to the vehicle body when released from the differential.

  1. Support the engine with a jack or lift, and raise it slightly. Now, separate the shift control rod from the shift rod.
  2.  
  3. Remove the extension bar from the transaxle. Remove the crossmember.
  4.  
  5. Remove the rubber mount from the transaxle case. Remove the starter.
  6.  
  7. Support the transaxle securely with a jack. Then remove the transaxle mounting bolts, and remove it from the car.
  8.  

To install:
  1. Raise the transaxle into position with the jack, then install and tighten the mounting bolts.
  2.  
  3. Install the starter and connect the wiring. Install the rubber mount onto the transaxle case.
  4.  
  5. Bolt the crossmember to the frame and connect the extension bar to the transaxle.
  6.  
  7. Connect the shift rod to the control rod.
  8.  
  9. Insert the driveshafts into the differential gears. Connect the lower ball joints to the steering knuckles. Mount the front wheels.
  10.  
  11. Connect all electrical wiring and the negative battery cable.
  12.  
  13. Fill the transaxle to the proper level and adjust the clutch linkage.
  14.  



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Fig. Fig. 1: Exploded view of GLC's manual transaxle



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Fig. Fig. 2: Disconnecting shift linkage and removing the crossmember-GLC manual transaxle



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Fig. Fig. 3: Observe the indicated torque values when assembling/installing the transaxle

1983-87 626

See Figures 4, 5, 6, 7 and 8

  1. Disconnect the negative battery cable.
  2.  
  3. Disconnect the speedometer cable at the transaxle.
  4.  
  5. Remove the clutch cable bracket mounting bolts. Disconnect the cable at the release lever, then remove the mounting bracket.
  6.  



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Fig. Fig. 4: Loosen the nuts which secure the clutch cable to the release lever ...



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Fig. Fig. 5: ... then disengage the cable from the lever

  1. Remove the ground wire attaching bolt and the wiring harness clip from the transaxle. Remove the starter.
  2.  
  3. Support the engine via the hooks in a secure manner from above.
  4.  
  5. Remove the four bolts which couple the engine to the transaxle.
  6.  
  7. Jack up the vehicle and support it securely. Drain the transaxle oil.
  8.  
  9. Remove the front wheels and the splash shields. Remove the stabilizer bar control link.
  10.  
  11. Remove the protective cover, if so equipped. Remove its coupling bolt, then separate the lower control arm ball joint from the steering knuckle by pulling downward on the lower control arm. Be careful not to damage the ball joint dust cover.
  12.  
  13. Insert a lever between the left-side driveshaft U-joint and the transaxle as shown, then gently tap the end of the lever to pull the driveshaft out of the differential side gear. Be careful not to damage the oil seal in the case. Pull outward on the brake rotor and caliper while holding the inner end of the shaft to guide it straight out of the transaxle case. This will prevent damage to the oil seal.
  14.  



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Fig. Fig. 6: Removing the left-side driveshaft from the 626 transaxle



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Fig. Fig. 7: Removing the right-side driveshaft from the 626 transaxle

  1. Insert a lever between the right-side driveshaft and joint shaft (cross-shaft), as shown, then gently tap the lever to uncouple the two. Pull forward on the brake caliper/rotor assembly on this side and separate the two shafts. Now, remove the cross-shaft bracket mounting bolts and remove the shaft/bracket assembly from the transaxle.
  2.  
  3. Remove the nuts from the transaxle mounting bracket where it connects with the crossmember. Then, remove the crossmember and the left lower arm as an assembly.
  4.  
  5. Disconnect the shift control rod from the shift rod. Disconnect the locating rod (extension bar) at the transaxle. Remove the protective cover from under the transaxle.
  6.  



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Fig. Fig. 8: Disconnect the locating rod at the transaxle

  1. Using a lift and chains or heavy rope, support the transaxle mounting bracket at two places and at the engine support. Support at three locations is necessary because the unit is not balanced. Remove the two bolts fastening the transaxle and engine together, then separate the transaxle from the engine. You can lower the unit from the car with a jack located underneath, but make sure the chains or rope are kept under some tension to stop the unit from tipping. Remove the mount brackets from the unit.
  2.  

To install:
  1. Installation of the transaxle is essentially the reverse of the removal procedure. Please note the following:
    1. Coat the spline of the primary shaft gear with molybdenum disulfide grease prior to assembling the transaxle to the engine.
    2.  
    3. Make sure to steady the transaxle with chains or ropes while installing it.
    4.  

  2.  
  3. Replace the clips at the inner ends of the driveshaft and cross-shaft back into the transaxle, but first turn the differential side gear by inserting your finger into the shaft hole so the shaft splines and gear recesses will fit into one another. Force the shaft in so the spring clip will lock. After the shaft is installed, connect it to the driveshaft. Then, pull the front disc-caliper assembly outward to make sure the driveshaft will not come out of the transaxle.
  4.  
  5. When installing the other driveshaft, use the same general technique to first force the spring clip to lock and then check that it has locked in a similar manner.
  6.  

Observe the following torque figures:



Transaxle mount-to-transaxle: 28-38 ft. lbs. (38-51 Nm)
 
Transaxle-to-engine bolts: 66-85 ft. lbs. (89-115 Nm)
 
Cross-shaft bracket mounting bolts: 32-45 ft. lbs. (43-61 Nm)
 
Ball joint-to-steering knuckle: 32-40 ft. lbs. (43-54 Nm)-When torquing the nuts fastening the stabilizer bar to the control link, make sure that 1 in. (25mm) of bare thread is visible.
 
Engine-to-transaxle bolts: 66-68 ft. lbs. (89-92 Nm)
 
Engine mount installing nuts: 17-21 ft. lbs. (23-28 Nm)
 

1988-89 626 and MX-6

See Figures 9 and 10

  1. Remove the battery and battery carrier.
  2.  
  3. Disconnect the main fuse block, distributor lead and air flow meter connector. Remove the air cleaner assembly.
  4.  
  5. On turbocharged engines, disconnect the intercooler hoses. On non-turbocharged engines, remove the resonance chamber.
  6.  
  7. Disconnect the speedometer cable and the transaxle grounds.
  8.  
  9. Raise and support the vehicle safely, then remove the front wheels and splash shield. Drain the transaxle oil into a suitable waste container.
  10.  
  11. Remove the clutch release cylinder and disconnect the tie rod ends using the proper tool.
  12.  
  13. Remove the stabilizer control links. Remove the nuts and bolts from the lower control arm ball joints, then pull the lower control arms downward to separate them from the steering knuckles. Be careful not to damage the ball joint dust boots.
  14.  
  15. Insert a small pry bar between the left driveshaft and the transaxle case, then tap the end of the lever to uncouple the driveshaft from the differential side gear. Pull the front hub forward and separate the driveshaft from the transaxle. Remove the left joint shaft bracket. Separate the right driveshaft and joint shaft in the same manner as the left.
  16.  

Do not insert the lever too deeply between the shaft and the case or the oil seal lip could be damaged. To avoid damage to the oil seal, hold the CV-joint at the differential with one hand and pull the driveshaft straight out.

  1. Once both drive and joint shafts are removed, install differential side gear holders 49-G030-455 (turbo), 49-G027-003 or their equivalents in the differential side gears to hold them in place and prevent misalignment.
  2.  
  3. Remove the gusset plates and under cover. Remove the extension bar and the control rod. Remove the surge tank bracket. Disconnect the wiring and remove the starter.
  4.  
  5. Suspend the engine from the engine hanger bracket with a suitable lifting device or engine support fixture.
  6.  



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Fig. Fig. 9: No. 4 transaxle mount-1988-89 626 and MX-6



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Fig. Fig. 10: No. 2 transaxle mount-1988-89 626 and MX-6

  1. Remove the No. 4 and No. 2 engine mounts and bracket. Disconnect the rubber hanger from the crossmember, then remove the crossmember and left-side lower control arm as an assembly.
  2.  
  3. Lean the engine towards the transaxle and support the transaxle with a jack. Remove the transaxle-to-engine mounting bolts and slide the transaxle from underneath the vehicle.
  4.  

To install:
  1. Attach a thick rope to two places on the transaxle. Place a board on the jack and lower the transaxle onto the board. Using the jack, lift the transaxle into position and throw the end of the rope over the support fixture bar. Tension the rope to guide the transaxle onto its mounts while lifting the transaxle with the jack. Once the transaxle is in place, have an assistant install the transaxle-to-engine mounting bolts and torque them to 66-68 ft. lbs. (89-92 Nm). Install the No. 4 engine mount and torque nuts A to 47-66 ft. lbs. (64-89) and nuts B to 49-69 ft. lbs. (66-93 Nm). Install the No. 2 engine mount and torque nuts A on non-turbo engines to 27-38 ft. lbs. (37-51 Nm) and 49-69 ft. lbs. (66-93 Nm) on turbo engines. Torque nuts B to 55-69 ft. lbs. (75-93 Nm) on both engines.
  2.  
  3. Install the crossmember and left-side lower control arm assembly. Torque the bolts to 27-40 ft. lbs. (37-51 Nm) and the nuts to 55-69 ft. lbs. (75-93 Nm).
  4.  
  5. Remove the jack and rope. Remove the support fixture.
  6.  
  7. Install the starter and connect the wiring. Attach the surge tank bracket and gusset plate. Install the end plate, clutch release cylinder and remaining gusset plates. Torque the gusset plate bolts to 27-38 ft. lbs. (37-51 Nm).
  8.  
  9. Replace the clips at the inner ends of the driveshaft and cross-shaft back into the transaxle, but first turn the differential side gear by inserting your finger into the shaft hole so the shaft splines and gear recesses will fit into one another. Force the shaft in so the spring clip will lock. After the shaft is installed, connect it to the driveshaft. Then, pull the front disc-caliper assembly outward to make sure the driveshaft will not come out of the transmission. When installing the other driveshaft, use the same general technique to first force the spring clip to lock and then check that it has locked in a similar manner.
  10.  
  11. Connect the lower arm ball joints to the steering knuckles and torque the nuts to 32-40 ft. lbs. (43-54 Nm). Clean the inside of the under cover and fill the notches with a suitable silicone sealant. Install the under cover and torque the retaining bolts to 67-95 inch lbs. (8-11 Nm).
  12.  
  13. Install the stabilizer bar control link and thread the nuts so that 0.79 in. (20mm) of the through-bolt protrudes above the bar. Once this dimension is obtained, hold the adjusting nuts and torque the locknuts to 12-17 ft. lbs. (16-23 Nm). Connect the tie rod ends using new cotter pins. Torque the tie rod end nuts to 22-33 ft. lbs. (30-45 Nm).
  14.  
  15. Install the splash shields, front wheels, transaxle ground wire, speedometer cable, intercooler hoses and air cleaner assembly (w/air flow meter connector). Connect the distributor lead, then install the main fuse block, battery and battery carrier. Fill the transaxle to the proper level.
  16.  

323 Models
2WD

See Figures 11 and 12

  1. Disconnect the negative battery cable. Remove the air cleaner. Loosen the front wheel lug nuts.
  2.  
  3. Disconnect the speedometer from the transaxle. Disconnect the clutch cable from the release lever and remove the clutch cable bracket mounting bolts.
  4.  
  5. Remove the ground wire installation boot. Remove the water pipe bracket. Remove the secondary air pipe and the EGR pipe bracket.
  6.  
  7. Remove the wire harness clip. Disconnect the coupler for the neutral switch and back-up lamp switch. Disconnect the body ground connector.
  8.  
  9. Remove the two upper transaxle mounting bolts. Mount the engine support tool 49-ER301-025A or equivalent to the engine hanger.
  10.  
  11. Raise and support the vehicle safely. Drain the transaxle oil into a suitable container and remove the front wheels.
  12.  
  13. Remove the engine under cover and side covers. Remove the front stabilizer.
  14.  
  15. Remove the lower arm ball joints and the knuckle clinch bolts, then pull the lower arm downward and separate the lower arms from the knuckles.
  16.  
  17. Separate the driveshaft by pulling the front hub outward. Make sure not to use too much force at once, increase the force gradually. Be sure the driveshaft's ball joint is bent to its maximum extent. Do not allow the axle shafts to drop, otherwise damage may occur to the ball and socket joints as well as to the rubber boots. Wire the shafts to the vehicle body when released from the differential.
  18.  



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Fig. Fig. 11: Crossmember mounting and brackets-323 with 2wd

  1. Remove the transaxle crossmember. Separate the change control rod from the transaxle. Remove the extension bar from the transaxle. Remove the wiring and the starter motor.
  2.  
  3. Remove the end plates. Lean the engine toward the transaxle side to lower the transaxle by loosening the engine support hook bolt. Support the transaxle with a suitable transaxle jack.
  4.  
  5. Remove the necessary engine brackets. Remove the remaining transaxle mounting bolt and No. 2 engine bracket. Lower the jack and slide the transaxle out from under the vehicle.
  6.  

To install:
  1. Before installing the transaxle, coat the splines of the primary shaft gear with molybdenum disulfide grease.
  2.  
  3. Attach a thick rope to two places on the transaxle. Place a board on the jack and lower the transaxle onto the board. Using the jack, lift the transaxle into position and throw the end of the rope over the support fixture bar. Tension the rope to guide the transaxle onto its mounts while lifting the transaxle with the jack. Once the transaxle is in place, have an assistant install all the transaxle-to-engine mounting bolts. Torque the bolts to to 47-66 ft. lbs. (64-89 Nm).
  4.  
  5. Install the end plates and the starter motor. Install the extension bar and control rod. Torque the extension bar nuts to 23-34 ft. lbs. (31-46 Nm) and the change control rod nuts to 12-17 ft. lbs. (16-23 Nm).
  6.  
  7. Attach the No. 2 mounting bracket to the transaxle and torque the bracket bolts to 27-38 ft. lbs. (37-51 Nm). Install the crossmember and left-side lower control arm assembly. Torque bolts A to 47-66 ft. lbs. (64-89 Nm) and bolts B to 20-34 ft. lbs. (27-46 Nm).
  8.  
  9. Remove the jack and rope. Remove the support fixture.
  10.  
  11. Install the starter and connect the wiring. Attach the surge tank bracket and gusset plate. Install the end plate, clutch release cylinder and remaining gusset plates. Torque the gusset plate bolts to 27-38 ft. lbs. (37-51 Nm).
  12.  
  13. Replace the clips at the inner ends of the driveshaft and cross-shaft back into the transaxle, but first turn the differential side gear by inserting your finger into the shaft hole so the shaft splines and gear recesses will fit into one another. Force the shaft in so the spring clip will lock. After the shaft is installed, connect it to the driveshaft. Then, pull the front disc-caliper assembly outward to make sure the driveshaft will not come out of the transmission. When installing the other driveshaft, use the same general technique to first force the spring clip to lock and then check that it has locked in a similar manner.
  14.  
  15. Connect the lower arm ball joints to the steering knuckles and torque the nuts to 32-40 ft. lbs. (43-54 Nm).
  16.  



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Fig. Fig. 12: 323 stabilizer bar adjustment

  1. Install the stabilizer bar and adjust as follows: Tighten the locknuts and the adjusting nuts so that 0.43 in. (11mm) of the through-bolt threads protrude above the top of nut B in the illustration. This is dimension C . Once this dimension is obtained, tighten nut B to 23-33 ft. lbs. (31-45 Nm) and bolts A to 9-13 ft. lbs. (12-18 Nm). Connect the tie rod ends using new cotter pins.
  2.  
  3. Install the engine under and side covers. Install the front wheels and lower the vehicle. Connect the body ground wire, then engage the neutral and back-up switch coupler. Install the EGR pipe bracket, secondary air pipe and water pipe bracket. Attach the clutch cable mounting bracket and connect the clutch cable to the release lever.
  4.  
  5. Connect the speedometer cable, then install the air cleaner assembly. Connect the negative battery cable. Adjust clutch and shift linkage as required. Refill the transaxle with the proper grade of gear oil.
  6.  

4WD

See Figures 12 and 13

  1. Remove the battery and the air cleaner assembly. Disconnect the speedometer cable in the center. Remove the clutch release cylinder retaining bolt and clip, then remove the clutch release cylinder. Raise and support the vehicle safely, then drain the transaxle and engine oil.
  2.  
  3. Disconnect the neutral safety switch, back-up lamp switch, differential lock sensor switch and differential lock motor electrical connectors. Disconnect the transaxle shift and select control cables from the transaxle by removing the pins and cable retaining clips. Route the cables off to the side and out of the way.
  4.  
  5. Mount the engine support fixture 49-8017-5A0 or equivalent to the engine strut mounting blocks. To mount the support fixture, first the nuts must be removed from the mounting blocks. Remove the No. 4 engine mount bracket and remove the front wheels.
  6.  



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Fig. Fig. 13: No. 4 mounting bracket-323 with 4wd

  1. Remove the side cover and under cover. Remove the driveshaft and crossmember. Remove the oil filter and differential lock assembly (the differential lock assembly is fastened with three bolts). Disconnect the starter wiring, then remove the starter and stabilizer bar.
  2.  
  3. Disconnect the tie rod end from the lower control arm. Insert a small pry bar between the driveshaft and the transaxle case, then tap the end of the lever to uncouple the driveshaft from the differential side gear. Remove the remaining driveshaft in the same manner. Insert differential side gear holder 49-B027-001 or equivalent to hold the side gears in place and prevent misalignment.
  4.  
  5. Remove the end plate bolts, then connect a suitable hoist and lifting strap to the transaxle. Lift the transaxle and transfer carrier assembly out of the engine.
  6.  

To install:
  1. Attach a thick rope to two places on the transaxle. Place a board on the jack and lower the transaxle onto the board. Using the jack, lift the transaxle into position and throw the end of the rope over the support fixture bar. Tension the rope to guide the transaxle onto its mounts while lifting the transaxle with the jack. Once the transaxle is in place, have an assistant install all the transaxle-to-engine and transfer mounting bolts. Torque the bolts to 66-86 ft. lbs. (89-117 Nm).
  2.  
  3. Install the end plates.
  4.  
  5. Replace the clips at the inner ends of the driveshaft and cross-shaft back into the transaxle, but first turn the differential side gear by inserting your finger into the shaft hole so the shaft splines and gear recesses will fit into one another. Force the shaft in so the spring clip will lock. After the shaft is installed, connect it to the driveshaft. Then, pull the front disc-caliper assembly outward to make sure the driveshaft will not come out of the transmission. When installing the other driveshaft, use the same general technique to first force the spring clip to lock and then check that it has locked in a similar manner. When installing the joint shaft, torque mounting bolts to 31-46 ft. lbs. (42-62 Nm).
  6.  
  7. Connect the tie rods to the lower arm and torque the pinch bolts to 32-40 ft. lbs. (43-54 Nm). Install and adjust the stabilizer bar as described in Step 21 of the 2wd 323's procedure. Dimension C for 4wd vehicles is 0.33 in. (8.5mm) and the torque specs are the same.
  8.  
  9. Install the starter, differential lock assembly, oil filter, driveshaft, side covers and under covers. Install the front wheels and lower the vehicle.
  10.  
  11. Install the No. 4 mounting bracket. Torque nuts A to 37-45 ft. lbs. (50-61 Nm) and nuts B to 14-19 ft. lbs. (19-26 Nm).
  12.  
  13. Remove the support fixture and replace the strut mounting block nuts. Torque the nuts to 17-22 ft. lbs. (23-30 Nm). Connect the shift and select control cables using new retaining clips. Connect all the electrical and sensor wiring.
  14.  
  15. Fill the transaxle to the proper level through the speedometer drive gear opening. Fill the crankcase. Adjust the shift and select control cables as previously described.
  16.  

OVERHAUL



Disassembly and Assembly of Major Components

The following procedures cover both the 4-speed and 5-speed transaxles on all applicable models. The 5-speed unit has a rear cover which easily distinguishes it from the other unit.

5th GEAR
  1. Remove the rear cover. Remove the roll pin that secures the 5th gear shift fork to the selector shaft. Shift the transaxle unit into either 1st or 2nd gear.
  2.  

Do not shift into 4th gear or you may cause damage to the gears.

  1. Move the 5th gear clutch sleeve, to engage 5th gear and double lock the transaxle.
  2.  
  3. Straighten the tab of the locknut on both the primary and secondary shafts. Remove the locknuts from the shafts.
  4.  
  5. Pull the 5th gear clutch hub assembly out along with the 5th fork.
  6.  

Remove the fork to gain access to the primary shaft locknut.

  1. Reinstall the 5th gear clutch hub and move the sleeve to the 5th gear position in order to lock the transaxle.
  2.  
  3. Remove the primary shaft locknut and remove the 5th gear from the transaxle case.
  4.  

To assemble:
  1. Install the 5th gear on the primary shaft. Be sure that the marked boss is facing toward the locknut. Install the bushing and the 5th gear on the secondary shaft.
  2.  
  3. Install the synchronizer ring, the clutch hub and the selector fork. Do not install the shift fork pin.
  4.  

The stop washer or plate for the clutch hub must be installed between the locknut and clutch hub to prevent overtravel of the clutch when shifting into reverse gear and to prevent the synchronizer keys from falling out.

  1. Install the locknuts on both shafts and tighten them slightly.
  2.  
  3. Shift into 1st or 2nd gear only, using the control rod. Shift into 5th gear to double lock the transaxle.
  4.  
  5. Tighten the primary shaft locknut and lock the hub.
  6.  

Do not tighten the secondary shaft locknut until the selector fork is installed. Remove the locknut and clutch hub from the secondary gear shaft, then reassemble it with the selector fork. Do not insert the drive pin at this time.

  1. Move the 5th gear selector clutch to engage the 5th gear in order to lock the transaxle.
  2.  
  3. Shift the unit into either 1st or 2nd gear.
  4.  
  5. Install the roll pin securing the 5th gear shift fork to the selector shaft. Install the cover.
  6.  

PRIMARY SHAFT

The Mazda manual transaxle uses two types of primary shafts, one for the 4-speed transaxle and another for the 5-speed transaxle. Both shafts are made as a cluster with reverse, 1st, 2nd, 3rd and 4th gears integral. The 5th gear (when equipped) is splined into the end of the shaft.

SECONDARY SHAFT

The secondary shaft assembly consists of the secondary shaft, gears, clutch hub and sleeve assemblies, synchronizer rings and bearings. The secondary shaft is manufactured integrally with the final drive gear.

There are three different types of secondary shafts used in the 4-speed transaxle and 2 different types used in the 5-speed transaxle. All of these shafts vary by the number of gear teeth on the final drive gears.

The combination of the final drive gear on the secondary shaft and ring gear are identified by the groove provided in the construction of each individual gear.

SECONDARY GEARS
  1. Install a suitable bearing puller in the grooves between the gear and the gear spline of 4th gear. Remove the bearing and the 4th gear from the assembly.
  2.  
  3. Remove the snapring on the 3rd and 4th clutch hub. Slide out the clutch hub and the sleeve assembly.
  4.  
  5. Remove the 3rd gear, the thrust washer and the 2nd gear.
  6.  
  7. Remove the snapring, then slide out the clutch hub and reverse gear assembly and 1st gear.
  8.  
  9. Install the bearing remover tool under the rollers and press out the shaft.
  10.  
  11. Assembly is the reverse of disassembly.
  12.  

SYNCHRONIZER RINGS

Bridge-type synchronizer rings are used in the Mazda transaxle. There are three different synchronizer rings; 1 for 2nd, 3rd and 4th speed, another for 1st and 3rd speed and 1 for 5th speed, if the vehicle is so equipped. The 1st speed synchronizer ring can be identified from the other two because it has fewer teeth.

THRUST CLEARANCE

The thrust clearance of each gear is checked by using a feeler gauge. The specification for thrust clearance is 0.02 in. (0.5mm).

REVERSE IDLER SHAFT AND SHIFT ROD

See Figure 14

The reverse idler shaft has an integral mounting post which is secured to the case with a bolt. When installing the idler shaft, align the holes of the shaft with the notch in the transaxle case. When installing reverse shift rod to the shift gate, be sure that the screw holes are aligned and that the hole of the shift rod is not 180 degrees out of phase.



Click image to see an enlarged view

Fig. Fig. 14: Reverse idler shaft alignment

BEARING PRELOAD ADJUSTMENT

See Figures 15, 16 and 17

When the clutch housing, transaxle case, primary shaft, secondary shaft, bearings or differential case are replaced, the bearing preload should be checked and adjusted as necessary.

  1. Remove the oil seal and the differential bearing outer race. Adjust the shim from the transaxle case.
  2.  
  3. Remove the bearing outer races from the primary and secondary shafts. Adjust the shims from the transaxle case and the clutch housing.
  4.  
  5. Reinstall the outer races to the transaxle case.
  6.  
  7. Install the outer races (removed in Step 2) to their respective selectors. Install the selectors, primary shaft assembly and secondary shaft assembly to the clutch housing.
  8.  
  9. Install the transaxle case, then place the ten collars between the transaxle case and the clutch housing.
  10.  



Click image to see an enlarged view

Fig. Fig. 15: Collar positioning

  1. To properly settle each bearing, using the tool, turn the selector in a direction where the gap is widened until it cannot be turned by hand. Then turn the selector in the opposite direction until the gap is eliminated. Manually turn the selector to a direction where the gap becomes wider until the selector cannot be turned.
  2.  

Make sure that the shaft turns smoothly.

  1. Measure the gap of the selector with a feeler gauge.
  2.  

This measurement should be taken at 90 degree intervals along the circumference of the selector.

  1. Take the maximum reading and determine the shim to be used as follows.
  2.  
  3. For the primary shaft bearing, first subtract 0.04 in./1mm (thickness of the diaphragm spring) from the gap (determined in Step 7).
  4.  

Example: Gap measurement of 0.054 in. (1.39mm) minus 0.039 in. (1mm) equals 0.015 in. (0.39mm); select the next larger and closer shim, which would be 0.016 in. (0.40mm).

Do not use more than 2 shims.

  1. For the secondary shaft bearing, select a shim which has a thickness that is larger and closer to the gap (determined in Step 7).
  2.  

Example: For a gap measurement 0.017 in. (0.42mm), select the next larger and closer shim, which would be 0.018 in. (0.45mm).

Do not use more than 2 shims to accomplish this task.

  1. For the differential bearing, set the preload adapters (tool 49-00180-510A and 49-FT01-515 or equivalents) to the pinion shaft through the hole for the driveshaft of the transaxle case. Hook a spring scale to the adapter and check the bearing preload.
  2.  



Click image to see an enlarged view

Fig. Fig. 16: Checking differential bearing preload

While checking the preload, turn the selector until the reading of the spring scale becomes 1.1-1.5 lbs. (0.50-0.68 kg).

  1. Measure the gap of the selector on the differential using a feeler gauge.
  2.  

This measurement should be taken at 90 degree intervals along the circumference of the selector.

  1. Select a shim that has a thickness larger and closer to the maximum reading that was taken in the previous step.
  2.  

Example: For a gap measurement of 0.021 in. (0.54mm), select the next larger and closer shim, which would be 0.024 in. (0.60mm).

Do not use more than 3 shims to accomplish this task.

  1. Remove the shim selectors and each bearing outer race. Install the shims selected in previous steps between the transaxle case and bearing outer race.
  2.  



Click image to see an enlarged view

Fig. Fig. 17: Selected shim installation locations

A diaphragm spring is used to keep the bearing preload as specified and also to maintain low level gear noise. When installing the diaphragm spring, be sure it is in the proper direction.

  1. When installing the oil funnel on the clutch housing, be sure that it is in the proper position.
  2.  
  3. After transaxle assembly, recheck the preloads of the differential bearing and the primary shaft bearing.
  4.  
  5. The differential bearing preload should be 0.3-6.6 inch lbs. 0.034-0.739 Nm) and the reading on the spring scale should be 0.07-1.7 lbs (0.03-0.77 kg).
  6.  
  7. The primary shaft preload should be 1.7-3.5 inch lbs. (0.2-0.4 Nm) and the reading on the spring scale should be 0.4-0.9 lbs. (0.18-0.41 kg).
  8.  

DIFFERENTIAL

The final gear is helical cut with the same tooth design as that used in the transmission. No adjustments are required.

There are three different ring gears in numbers of gear teeth on the manual transaxle. They are indicated by the marks (grooves) provided on the gear outer surface.

The backlash between the differential side gear and pinion gear is adjusted by the thrust washer installed behind the side gear teeth. There are 3 different thicknesses of thrust washers available.

When checking the backlash, insert both driveshafts into the side gears.

 
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