Mazda Trucks 1972-1986 Repair Guide

Oil Pump

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REMOVAL & INSTALLATION



1,586cc, 1,796cc and 1,970cc Engines
  1. Remove the oil pan.
  2.  
  3. Remove the oil pump gear attaching nut.
  4.  
  5. Remove the bolts attaching the oil pump to the block. Loosen the gear on the pump.
  6.  
  7. Remove the oil pump and gear.
  8.  
  9. Install the oil pump gear in the chain.
  10.  
  11. Prime the oil pump and install it on the cylinder block. Install the bolts and tighten them securely.
  12.  
  13. Install the washer, gear and nut. Bend the locktab on the washer.
  14.  
  15. Install the oil pan. Fill the engine with oil. Start the engine and check for oil pressure. Check for leaks.
  16.  

2,209cc Diesel Engine

  1. Remove the oil pan.
  2.  
  3. Remove the oil pump set screw.
  4.  
  5. Remove the oil pipe attaching bolts.
  6.  
  7. Remove the oil pump.
  8.  
  9. Installation is the reverse of removal. Torque the pump and pipe bolts to 8 ft. lbs.
  10.  

1,998cc Engine See Figure 1



Click image to see an enlarged view

Fig. Fig. 1: Exploded view of the oil pump components used on the 1,998cc engine

  1. Disconnect the battery ground.
  2.  
  3. Drain the cooling system.
  4.  


CAUTION
When draining engine coolant, keep in mind that cats and dogs are attracted to ethylene glycol antifreeze and could drink any that is left in an uncovered container or in puddles on the ground. This will prove fatal in sufficient quantity. Always drain coolant into a sealable container. Coolant should be reused unless it is contaminated or is several years old.

  1. Remove the distributor.
  2.  
  3. Remove the fan shroud and fan.
  4.  
  5. Remove the alternator.
  6.  
  7. Disconnect the air injection pipes.
  8.  
  9. Remove the fan pulley, hub and bracket.
  10.  
  11. If so equipped, remove the air conditioning compressor drive belt.
  12.  
  13. If so equipped, remove the power steering pump drivebelt.
  14.  
  15. Remove the crankshaft pulley and baffle plate.
  16.  
  17. Remove the upper, then the lower, belt covers.
  18.  
  19. Turn the crankshaft so that the A mark on the camshaft pulley is at the top, aligned with the notch in the front housing.
  20.  
  21. Loosen the tensioner lockbolt and remove the tensioner spring.
  22.  
  23. Mark the forward rotation of the belt with paint to avoid confusion upon installation. Remove the belt.
  24.  
  25. Unbolt and remove the crankshaft sprocket.
  26.  
  27. Drain the oil.
  28.  


CAUTION
The EPA warns that prolonged contact with used engine oil may cause a number of skin disorders, including cancer! You should make every effort to minimize you exposure to used engine oil. Protective gloves should be worn when changing the oil. Wash your hands and any other exposed skin areas as soon as possible after exposure to used engine oil. Soap and water, or waterless hand cleaner should be used.

  1. Remove the skid plate.
  2.  
  3. Place a floor jack under the front of the engine at the crankshaft pulley and take up the weight of the engine. Or use a shop crane to support the engine.
  4.  
  5. Remove the crossmember.
  6.  
  7. Remove the cotter pin and nut and, with a puller, disconnect the idler arm from the center link.
  8.  
  9. Remove the engine mount gusset plates from the sides of the engine.
  10.  
  11. Remove the bell housing front cover.
  12.  
  13. Unbolt and remove the oil pan. A flat tipped screwdriver may be used to break the seal between the pan and block.
  14.  
  15. Remove the oil pick-up tube.
  16.  
  17. Unbolt and remove the oil pump.
  18.  

To install:
  1. Apply a thin coating of grease to the O-ring and install it in its recess in the pump body.
  2.  
  3. Apply a thin bead of RTV silicone sealer to the pump mounting surface.
  4.  
  5. Coat the oil seal lip with clean engine oil and install the pump. Torque the bolts to 14-19 ft. lbs.
  6.  
  7. Clean all the gasket surfaces. Straighten and portion of the pan rim that is bent.
  8.  
  9. Clean the oil pan, oil pump pickup tube and oil pump screen.
  10.  
  11. If you are using a gasket, install a new oil pan gasket coated with oil resistant sealer. Place RTV silicone sealer at the points shown in the accompanying illustration. If you are using RTV silicone gasket material in place of a conventional gasket, run a 1 / 8 in. bead around the rim of the pan, going inboard of each bolt hole. Tighten the pan bolts within 30 minutes of application. Tighten the pan bolts to 5-9 ft. lbs.
  12.  
  13. Install the bell housing front cover. Torque the bolts to 20 ft. lbs.
  14.  
  15. Install the engine mount gusset plates on the sides of the engine. Torque the bolts to 35 ft. lbs.
  16.  
  17. Install the idler arm on the center link. Torque the nut to 30 ft. lbs. Install a new cotter pin.
  18.  
  19. Install the crossmember.
  20.  
  21. Remove the floor jack or shop crane used to support the engine.
  22.  
  23. Install the skid plate.
  24.  
  25. Install the crankshaft sprocket.
  26.  
  27. Replace timing the belt if it has been contaminated by oil or grease, or shows any sign of damage, wear, cracks or peeling.
  28.  
  29. To ease installation of the belt, remove all the spark plugs.
  30.  
  31. Make sure that the timing mark on the camshaft is aligned as described above, and that the timing mark (notch) on the crankshaft sprocket is aligned with the triangular shaped mark on the front housing.
  32.  
  33. Install the tensioner and spring, positioning the tensioner all the way to the intake manifold side and temporarily secure it there with the lockbolt.
  34.  
  35. Install the belt onto the sprockets from YOUR right side. If you are reusing the original belt, make sure you follow the directional mark previously made.
  36.  
  37. Loosen the lockbolt so that the tensioner applies tension to the belt.
  38.  
  39. Turn the crankshaft two full revolutions in the direction of normal rotation. This will apply equal tension to all points of the belt.
  40.  
  41. Make sure that the timing marks are still aligned. If not, repeat the belt installation procedure.
  42.  
  43. Tighten the tensioner lockbolt to 30-35 ft. lbs.
  44.  
  45. Measure the timing belt tension by pressing on the belt at the midpoint of the longest straight run. Belt deflection should be 11-13mm (0.43-0.51 in.). If not, repeat the belt adjustment procedure, above.
  46.  
  47. Install the upper, then the lower, belt covers. Torque the belt cover bolts to 80 in. lbs.; the fan bracket bolts to 40 ft. lbs.
  48.  
  49. Install the crankshaft pulley and baffle plate.
  50.  
  51. Install the power steering pump drive belt.
  52.  
  53. Install the air conditioning compressor drive belt.
  54.  
  55. Install the fan pulley, hub and bracket.
  56.  
  57. Install the air injection pipes.
  58.  
  59. Install the alternator.
  60.  
  61. Install the fan shroud and fan.
  62.  
  63. Install the distributor.
  64.  
  65. Fill the engine with the proper amount of oil.
  66.  
  67. Fill the cooling system.
  68.  
  69. Install the battery ground cable.
  70.  

When installing the drive belts on the various accessories, check the belt deflection as follows:



Alternator
 

New: 7-8mm (0.275-0.315 in.) Used: 8-9mm (0.315-0.354 in.)



Power steering pump
 

New: 9-11mm (0.354-0.433 in.) Used: 11-13mm (0.433-0.510 in.)



Air conditioning compressor
 

New: 10-12mm (0.394-0.472 in.) Used: 12-14mm (0.472-0.552 in.)

INSPECTION 1,586cc, 1,796cc, 2,209cc and 1,970cc Engines



See Figures 2 and 3

Click image to see an enlarged view

Fig. Fig. 2: Checking the inner rotor-to-outer rotor clearance for the 1,586cc, 1,796cc, 1,970cc and 2,209cc engines



Click image to see an enlarged view

Fig. Fig. 3: Inner rotor-to-outer rotor tally marks used for alignment when assembling the oil pump

PUMP BODY-TO-SHAFT CLEARANCE

Make this check using a dial indicator mounted on a magnet base. Bear the indicator on the drive gear. Clearance should not exceed 0.10mm (0.003937 in.). If it does, replace the pump.

INNER-TO-OUTER ROTOR CLEARANCE

Using a feeler gauge, check between the lobes of the rotors. Standard clearance should be 0.05-0.15mm (0.00196-0.00591 in.). If the clearance is greater than 0.25mm (0.00984 in.), replace both rotors.

OUTER ROTOR-TO-PUMP BODY CLEARANCE

Insert a feeler gauge between the outer rotor and the pump body. Standard clearance is 0.15-0.25mm (0.00591-0.00984 in.). If clearance exceeds 0.30mm (0.0118 in.), replace the rotor or body.

ROTOR END FLOAT

Place a straightedge across the pump body and measure the clearance between the rotor and the straightedge with a feeler gauge. Then, place the straightedge across the pump cover and, with a feeler gauge, measure between the straightedge and the cover center. If the total of these two measurements exceeds 0.15mm (0.0059 in.), the condition may be corrected by grinding the cover or replacing the cover or pump body.

1,998cc Engine See Figures 4, 5 and 6



Click image to see an enlarged view

Fig. Fig. 4: Inner (left) and outer (right) gear tooth tip-to-crescent clearance measurements on the 1,998cc engine oil pump



Click image to see an enlarged view

Fig. Fig. 5: 1,998cc engine oil pump side clearance measurement



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Fig. Fig. 6: Outer gear-to-pump body clearance measurement

The crescent referred to in these procedures is the crescent-shaped slinger between the inner and outer pump gears.

OUTER GEAR TOOTH TIP TO CRESCENT CLEARANCE

Check this clearance with a feeler gauge. If the clearance exceeds 0.33mm (0.01299 in.), replace the gear.

INNER GEAR TOOTH TIP-TO-CRESCENT CLEARANCE

Check this clearance with a feeler gauge. If the clearance exceeds 0.40mm (0.01575 in.), replace the gear.

SIDE CLEARANCE

Lay a straightedge across the pump body and, using a feeler gauge, measure between the gear faces and straightedge. If the clearance exceeds 0.10mm (0.003937 in.), replace the pump.

OUTER GEAR-TO-PUMP BODY CLEARANCE

Insert a feeler gauge between the outer gear and the pump body. If the clearance exceeds 0.20mm (0.00787 in.), replace the gear or pump body.

 
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